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fookolt posted:What about LA? Everything in LA is more expensive. My friend in LA says he usually takes his stuff to Carruther's or Neely's, and if you don't mind heading to Van Nuys, Eric Chaz will apparently set your guitar up for less than 60 bucks.
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Jun 26, 2013 06:54
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| # ? May 18, 2024 06:40 |
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If you live in LA I'm pretty sure there's going to be a luthier for ever 20 people. Look up your town on google & luthier and you'll probably get a good idea of who is around.
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Jun 26, 2013 06:56
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muike posted:If you live in LA I'm pretty sure there's going to be a luthier for ever 20 people. Look up your town on google & luthier and you'll probably get a good idea of who is around. That's the thing: there's just too many of them  I really just want to find someone who can install a Sustainiac for me.
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Jun 26, 2013 06:59
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muike posted:If you live in LA I'm pretty sure there's going to be a luthier for ever 20 people. Look up your town on google & luthier and you'll probably get a good idea of who is around. There's four listed within five miles of me in Manchester UK, three have reviews on Google+ maps and the fourth is this guy http://www.paulcuthbertguitars.co.uk who provides a few cherry picked quotes and has been on a bunch of backstage DVD's touring with the bands on his client list. I would think LA is going to have a lot more people placing reviews so it won't be hard to figure out who's good or not. Just start with the closest place to you and work outwards until you find someone affordable with a solid rating. Verizian fucked around with this message at 10:34 on Jun 26, 2013 |
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Jun 26, 2013 10:08
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Or save yourself a fortune and learn how to do it yourself, especially if you live someplace with seasons thus necessitating setups at least twice a year. http://www.fender.com/support/articles/fender-guitar-setup-guide/
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Jun 26, 2013 15:15
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I miss the old Agile thread I'm about to pull the trigger on a blue-flamed AL3010 because I need a cheap backup for my strat. I wound up selling my Reverend Warhawk because the P90's just didn't give me the bite I needed compared to my fat strat, and that was way too expensive of a guitar to just sit on a guitar stand on stage or leave in the case all the time. I figure in addition to giving me a Les Paul fix and being a decent backup live guitar, the $300 price tag won't make me feel guilty for letting it sit for long amounts of time. As for SG talk, I had a beautiful white one 3 years ago and the quality was very high. Here is a shot. I miss it sometimes, but since I traded it for my beloved HSS strat I haven't really looked back. 
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Jun 26, 2013 15:30
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Jesus, $75 for a setup? That sounds insane compared to Pittsburgh prices. I'm taking my girlfriends classical in this weekend for a setup, and its $35 plus strings, done by a master luthier. I can't freaking wait to play jams with her 
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Jun 26, 2013 15:54
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Alright, just bought an AL-3010 in blue flame. I'm curious to see how it is.
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Jun 26, 2013 20:15
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I lived in Pittsburgh most of my life and that price difference is about right, in all things.
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Jun 26, 2013 20:16
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Agiles are pretty solid, I imagine the 3010 will be nice.
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Jun 26, 2013 20:38
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I've been working on rebuilding my 2000 Epiphone Flying V for nearly a year. It started out looking like this: (not my pic)Don't really get much time to do work on it, and honestly it's been pretty sloptastic work thus far. I designed a new pickguard about a month ago, and had it cut via waterjet this week, along with a kind of old school Gibson-style truss rod cover. Going to get them both finished nicely and electro polished. I'm hoping for a mirror finish.  Pretty drat happy with how this thing is turning out. It's the first time I've done work like this, and it's not perfect, but I'm really proud of myself for getting this far. All it needs now is for the plates to be finished, a bridge/tailpiece (hoping to do a wraparound bridge), electronics wired, and to have the nut filed and fitted. I'll probably take it to a luthier to do the nut and setup once everything is installed, since I don't trust myself with that stuff. Edit: Here's a picture of the headstock with the new truss rod cover and tuners. Looking drat fine, I must say. 
Cpt. Spring Types fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jun 26, 2013 |
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Jun 26, 2013 20:44
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Thank you all for the SG comments. I got what I was looking for, a reassurance that they're really great guitars and have a good bit of variety without losing quality. I'll shop around a bit and maybe try trading my strat in for a new Standard.
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Jun 26, 2013 22:03
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Cpt. Spring Types posted:I've been working on rebuilding my 2000 Epiphone Flying V for nearly a year. It started out looking like this: This looks pretty badass. Can't wait to see it finished
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Jun 26, 2013 23:07
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 I dug this old MXR pedal out of my closet. I haven't seen it since I was 16 and I had no idea how completely fantastic it sounded (I actually thought I sold it years ago). I don't think my young self had any idea at all. I've got an OR15 head on it's way in the next week, and next month I'm going to pick up an american special strat and I can't wait to push that amp with this little pedal.  e: I had a Distortion II as well, but that one I definitely did sell.
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Jun 27, 2013 00:23
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Cpt. Spring Types posted:Cool Flying V This looks pretty cool. How are Vs to play? I'm not usually a huge fan of the look and they look pretty uncomfortable to play to me. Are they a strictly standing up guitar? Also, what's the consensus on changing electric strings in regards to how many off at one time. I read a bunch of stuff saying "Don't take more than one off or your guitar will explode from the relief!" and then others saying it's not a problem if you're not leaving it without strings for a day or more. I have fresh strings for my electric (Changed my acoustic's and it's a billion times nicer to play now. I have no idea why I keep leaving it for so long) and I'd like to give it a clean up and rub down but those pesky strings are in the way.
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Jun 27, 2013 08:53
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You only have to worry about floating trem systems when changing strings. The neck isn't going to explode but if you have a Floyd Rose bridge and you take all the strings off it'll take you several hours and possibly a week of stretching to get it at the right angle. If you don't get the bridge at the right angle then you'll never get the guitar in tune. Ideally with a Floyd you'll swap the 6th string while the old strings are still in tune then bring it upto tune before adjusting the old ones, when they're balanced and all in tune you swap the 5th string, bring it upto tune and continue tuning the rest, including the 6th again. Doesn't work when changing string gauges though, then you might as well remove them all and do a full setup which likely involves adjusting trem springs and bridge/saddle height as minimum but will probably include a minor truss rod adjustment.
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Jun 27, 2013 13:19
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syntaxfunction posted:This looks pretty cool. How are Vs to play? I'm not usually a huge fan of the look and they look pretty uncomfortable to play to me. Are they a strictly standing up guitar? Most electric guitars (and acoustic guitars) are stable enough to handle having the strings taken off one by one. I usually detune all of my strings until they're floppy and then unwrap them from the tuning posts, but I also know of people who change each string individually. Never cut your strings while they're at playing tension and never ever ever ever cut all of your strings at once.
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Jun 27, 2013 15:41
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I change each string individually, but you need to take them all off (or at least completely detune them) to do poo poo like change pickups and I've never had a problem afterwards.
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Jun 27, 2013 15:47
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syntaxfunction posted:This looks pretty cool. How are Vs to play? I'm not usually a huge fan of the look and they look pretty uncomfortable to play to me. Are they a strictly standing up guitar? As for string changing, I do the "loosen until floppy, then unwrap from posts" thing. The only time I change a string individually is if one breaks and I don't want to replace all of them.
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Jun 27, 2013 16:40
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Remulak posted:I change each string individually, but you need to take them all off (or at least completely detune them) to do poo poo like change pickups and I've never had a problem afterwards.
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Jun 27, 2013 16:47
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duckfarts posted:Also to clean/oil the fretboard.
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Jun 27, 2013 17:28
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Remulak posted:Hmm, I only have one acoustic and the fretboard is looking thirsty. What's the right thing to do here? It can be a bit of a bitch to find, Lowes/Home Depot usually has it in the cleaning supplies or Dunlop sells a little bottle with a cloth applicator on the top for a few bucks.
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Jun 27, 2013 18:05
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I do a clean with some solution first to get the dirt off, then lemon oil. Smells gooooooooooooooooood. Don't go crazy with the oil though, as I'm told you can swell the wood and gently caress poo poo up if you go nuts and try to soak it and stuff.
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Jun 27, 2013 18:14
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iostream.h posted:Pure lemon oil, no detergents or crap in it.
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Jun 27, 2013 19:05
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To change the strings all at once just block the tremolo from falling with some thin, soft plastic insert placed under the trem and over the body cavity. Or use a metal ruler padded with a cloth to keep it from digging in. It will hold the trem reasonably flat as you relieve the string tension, do what you need to do, then tighten the new strings up to pitch. Once the new string tension is back on the guitar, your plastic/metal block should slight back out easily and the strings will once again rest on the tension of the trem springs.
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Jun 27, 2013 19:07
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If it's really cruddy a scrub with a toothbrush and naphtha. Followed up by lemon oil. While you're doing all that tape off in between the frets and give them a buff with some 0000 steel wool or nevr-dull. Tape off the pick-ups if you go with the steel wool as well. Makes everything smoooooothhh.
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Jun 27, 2013 19:12
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Do you not also use the steel wool on the wood of the fretboard? I did that last time and it really helped get the gunk off an old guitar that had never been cleaned.
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Jun 27, 2013 19:16
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I remember when I was around 15 I finally graduated to a "real guitar" from my beginner Squire when I got a Fender Jag-stang in sonic blue. Me, thinking I had some type of clue what I was doing, wound up wiping the strings down in lemon oil and proceeded to do that for a month or two. Hey, if they sold it in a music store it MUST be for your strings right? Ah yes, the good ol' days.
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Jun 27, 2013 19:39
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You can but it's relatively easy to gently caress things up that way. Better to use a plastic scrubby pad with no soap in it if you really need something like that. Most of the time a cloth and some elbow grease will do the trick. Aside from lemon oil, butcher block oil will work, basically any odorless mineral oil without waxes or other additives that are going to gunk things up. Clean fret board, put a few drops of oil on a clean cloth, rub the fretboard down, wait half an hour, take another clean cloth and wipe it all down again to clear off any excess. And don't worry about taking the strings off in terms of warping the neck or whatever, it's fine for cleaning and maintenance, just don't store the guitar that way.
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Jun 27, 2013 19:47
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Yeah you can but if you do it's better to go with the grain like any time you sand wood. Which is opposite how you usually clean the frets back and forth. A synthetic steel wool is always the best choice but it's hard to find it in fine enough grits. The only place I've ever seen it in a 0000 equivalent was at a Woodcraft store. Nevr Dull or Mothers metal polish you should be able to find anywhere and they both do an equally amazing job at polishing fret wire.
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Jun 27, 2013 20:26
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Verizian posted:You only have to worry about floating trem systems when changing strings. The neck isn't going to explode but if you have a Floyd Rose bridge and you take all the strings off it'll take you several hours and possibly a week of stretching to get it at the right angle. Nah you can change all the strings at once with a floyd pretty easily by blocking it off. The old school method was a 9 volt battery wrapped in electrical tape put under the top plate.
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Jun 27, 2013 22:10
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comes along bort posted:Nah you can change all the strings at once with a floyd pretty easily by blocking it off. The old school method was a 9 volt battery wrapped in electrical tape put under the top plate. Well yeah, I've used the side of a capo but I find it quicker to change each string on it's own. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmAaVSpwIzI This guys wiring tutorials are amazing and I ran into this exact problem today. The fix is easy and shown in this video but what do I do about the other pickups? My plan was to use two consecutive pots and a single to control volume independently for each pup and coil tap in a HH/S/HH setup. Now I'm going to have to scrap that idea and come up with something else. I could connect the north coils+scoil to a 5 way switch as normal for a HSH setup then run that to one set of lugs on a concentric pot. Then swap the single pot for a 3way switch and hook the south coils to it before running to the other lugs on the first concentric pot, swapping the middle and hot connections over as shown in the video. Then I just need to buy caps to turn the other concentric pot into a combined low/highpass filter. I'm thinking a tight treble bleed on the Lowpass with something like a 0.015µ cap but not sure about the Highpass, either 0.0033µ or 0.0022µ caps depending on the mud level from the 24KΩ pup.
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Jun 28, 2013 00:38
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Good to know I can remove the strings and give the guitar a good clean. It's quite dirty. I don't have a trem or anything so that's even easier.
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Jun 28, 2013 04:39
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Yeah, I've always just snipped off the old strings and thrown on new ones, been doing it for over 20 years now with no ill effects. Just DO it and don't let the guitar set around without strings. Don't overthink it, there are guitars out there that are used regularly for 60 years or so and you can bet for sure that they've not all been babied during their lives, they're pretty drat durable.
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Jun 28, 2013 05:08
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From my understanding, the modes are all basically the C Major scale only starting and ending at different notes, with Ionian mode being what eventually became C Major proper. If I've got this right, that means that learning fingering patterns for each of the modes is essentially learning all the different fingerings for the major scale, and that they can therefore be plugged into each other in order to span the whole fretboard. I did some GISing to find mode patterns, and came up with this:  I oriented the patterns 90 degrees anticlockwise, like I'm used to, and attempted to plug them in together, and came up with this:  As you can see, it worked fine except for the Lydian mode. Playing that mode as they have it there, starting from the red note, it doesn't sound major, and it looks like it's the exact same thing as Phyrgian mode except missing a note. It seems pretty clear to me that Lydian is not the conventional major scale like the others are, but from that first image it appears that those are all of the modes, numbered 1 through 7. What's the deal? There's obviously a gap in my understanding somewhere...
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Jun 28, 2013 05:26
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I always unwind and de-string most of my guitars completely and give the fretboard a good scrub and oil between set changes, though in 15+ years of playing I've never had serious issues even with the ones I cut in rapid succession from full tension. Guitarists like to nerd out hard over things like this. You're unlikely to hurt your setup to any appreciable measure by unstringing it like an rear end in a top hat, however, a big part of being a guitarist is nerding out and treating your axes like baby Jesus himself. If you don't sing them to sleep every night and caress them with only the most expensive treatment solutions you should probably gently caress right off and take up drumming or something. Now, if somebody is willing to buy me some atrociously expensive top-end guitars to treat like poo poo and test this theory on, I'm all for it. When it comes to accosting the guitar gods, it's better me than you, right? treat fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 05:35
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Hydrolith posted:It seems pretty clear to me that Lydian is not the conventional major scale like the others are, but from that first image it appears that those are all of the modes, numbered 1 through 7. What's the deal? There's obviously a gap in my understanding somewhere... Lydian is just the major scale starting from the 4th. A dot is missing in the diagram you posted, there should be one on the B string right next to the purple dot on the high E That missing note also would be the root of the major scale were you playing one, which is probably why it starts quite unlike major when you play the leading tone and then skip over it.
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Jun 28, 2013 06:09
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^^^ THEM'S THE BREAKSHydrolith posted:From my understanding, the modes are all basically the C Major scale only starting and ending at different notes, with Ionian mode being what eventually became C Major proper. If I've got this right, that means that learning fingering patterns for each of the modes is essentially learning all the different fingerings for the major scale, and that they can therefore be plugged into each other in order to span the whole fretboard. You're missing the 5th on the B string for your Lydian box pattern - directly below the root. That red note on your big chart. The reason it looks the same as Phrygian (except that missing note) is that it's using the same basic box pattern. Those are the patterns for playing the major scale, and you're just starting (and ending) on a different note for each mode. What you have there is a convenient box pattern for each of those modes where you can start the scale on the bottom string and run all the way up to the top. It just happens to be the same pattern for those two modes, since they start one semitone (one fret apart). If you look at the actual sequence of intervals, the jumps from one note to the next, they're massively different. Lydian is basically a major scale with the 4th raised a semitone. That's it, has a slightly exotic flavour but nothing too out there. Phrygian is all kinds of hosed up, it starts with a minor 2nd and that's already a wild time. The thing with modes is, as you've noticed, they share the same notes as a major scale. So whether what you're playing sounds like C major, or A minor, or E Phrygian all depends on context. If you keep leaning on C notes, it'll sound like C major. If the underlying chords imply C major, your scale will too. Now if you play C Lydian (same notes as G major) instead of F Lydian, then you'll start to hear things. Try comparing modes with the same root note like that, to see how they change things.
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Jun 28, 2013 06:25
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treat posted:Now, if somebody is willing to buy me some atrociously expensive top-end guitars to treat like poo poo and test this theory on, I'm all for it. When it comes to accosting the guitar gods, it's better me than you, right?
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Jun 28, 2013 06:30
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I think rather than memorizing boxes or whatever, it's far more useful in the long run to understand: 1) what the notes are on the fretboard 2) what notes are in chords (and how they all have difference characteristics based on the chords before and after them) 3) what are the common patterns in traversing the fretboard in different intervals It's harder to figure out at first compared to memorizing shapes, but it's a lot easier in the long run. fookolt fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 07:05
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