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I liked them on the 250, first time I scraped the pegs I shat myself, I got feelers after that and it was nice to know "ok, no more!". They're not exactly hard either, the peg pushes up once they start scraping, once that starts it's time to stop being a legend and ease up a bit. I think I saw in the track day thread they make you take them off for track days though. Why is that?
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Jun 28, 2013 08:43
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Any  goons in the thread? I just moved here from the US and might be interested in getting a motorcycle licence (i meant to do it in the US but oh well too late). I'm familiar with the US system, take MSF, pass written test, get your licence. What's the smartest way to go about it here?
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Jun 28, 2013 10:19
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n8r posted:I don't drag pegs on the street because I like to have this thing called margin of error. I live my life one margin of error at a time - n8r
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Jun 28, 2013 10:39
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Russian Bear posted:Any If it's anything like the Danish one, and I suspect it might be, you're going to want to shop around for "driving schools" in your area so you can talk to some instructors. There's probably going to be traffic theory that you can do at your own pace, and group sessions where you ride around on the school's bikes with an instructor following you around giving you directions over a radio earpiece. Find something close to where you live so it's not a big hassle to get there when you've arranged to meet up. I don't know how good they are at providing course stuff in English, but I can't see it being a big problem.
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Jun 28, 2013 11:26
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Icept posted:I don't know how good they are at providing course stuff in English, but I can't see it being a big problem. There should be driving schools available that cater specifically to English speakers (or other languages), if it's anything like in Denmark.
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Jun 28, 2013 11:45
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Russian Bear posted:Any You first need to acquire a driver's license permit. It's basically just a paper where you certify that you're not legally blind or have some other physical or mental disability that prevents you from being a safe driver/rider. Trafikverket (our DMV) will also check so that you don't have a currently suspended license. As part of the education you have to attend two special classes, Risk 1 and Risk 2. Risk 1 is just a classroom session where they try to drill common sense into your head (Don't ride drunk, wear a full face helmet and proper gear, don't ride over your abilities, etc.). Risk 2 is a riding session where you're taught emergency braking, proper cornering, risk awareness in traffic, how big a car's blind spot is, and so on. You technically don't need any riding experience before taking Risk 2, but you gain a lot more from it if you're already comfortable on the bike. After you've practiced and feel ready you start by taking a written test (65 multiple choice questions, 51 to pass). This is taken at Trafikverket. You must have finished Risk 1 and 2 before you can book the written test. If you fail the written test you have to book it again at a later date. You can't do the riding test before you've passed the written test. Once you've passed the written test you can book the riding test. Usually you get a time within a week or two. Again Trafikverket is responsible for the test, not your riding school. The test consists of one or two low-speed maneuver tests consisting of slaloms, box turns, figure 8s and so on. Then you do an emergency brake test, a swerve test followed directly by a high-speed slalom, U turn at speed and controlled braking. After you've passed that you go for a ride, usually a bit of mixed city and freeway riding, but it's up to the guy testing you where you ride. Pass that and you're good to go. The best way to do all this is to contact a riding school in your area and they'll help you jump through all the hoops. e: Forgot about the permit. Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 13:54
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....holy crap. No wonder Europeans are such good riders.
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Jun 28, 2013 14:27
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http://studio819.smugmug.com/Adrenaline-Freaks/8-12-05/Group-3-Blue-SV/744999_4dC35Q#!i=32826863&k=TMrqg5c From years ago riding a POS SV650. At any rate don't take your feelers off unless you actually know what you're doing. If you have them on you may still have a bit of room to stand the bike up when you touch down and crap yourself.
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Jun 28, 2013 14:41
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Also it wouldn't matter if you took your license in the US before moving here. You can drive on a non-EEA license for a limited time, but only licenses issued in countries within EEA (European Economic Area, basically the EU plus Iceland, Norway and Lichtenstein) can be directly converted to a swedish license without re-testing.
Collateral Damage fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Jun 28, 2013 |
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Jun 28, 2013 14:47
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Collateral Damage posted:Also it wouldn't matter if you took your license in the US before moving here. You can drive on a non-EEA license for a limited time, but only licenses issued in countries within EEA (European Economic Area, basically the EU plus Iceland, Norway and Lichtenstein) can be directly converted to a swedish license without re-testing. That's odd and very non-EU like. I converted my Canadian license directly over to a UK license with no loss of endorsements except that I can't drive a manual car anymore, since there's no such endorsement in Canuckistan. Not sure why Sweden would have a different policy. Do they want to incur the wrath of Brussels?
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Jun 28, 2013 15:17
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No idea, I guess it's just national policy. I kept reading about it and apparently we have an exception for Japan and Switzerland as well.
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Jun 28, 2013 15:33
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Shimrod posted:I liked them on the 250, first time I scraped the pegs I shat myself, I got feelers after that and it was nice to know "ok, no more!". Some of them will tear the poo poo out of the track.
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Jun 28, 2013 18:10
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High Protein posted:Motorcycle manuals' shift recommendations are just plain absurd, on my old bike they wanted top gear at 37 as well, which would put you at below 2000 revs. On a thumper that would destroy the 5th gear sprockets at anything below 4000. I know this is a page late, but I wanted to emphasize the absurdness of the manuals' shift points. This is for my WR250X:  Ignoring the low upshift points, no matter what gear you're in you should downshift all the way to first as soon as you hit 12.5 mph! And don't downshift at all before then! Really, what's the point of even including shift points like this? There's even an extra note telling you to always use these points.
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Jun 28, 2013 21:30
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Russian Bear posted:Any Where in Sweden are you?
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Jun 28, 2013 21:54
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Collateral Damage posted:Holy poo poo Swedish motorcycle laws Is this the same everywhere in EU? I'm moving to Germany and have been considering getting a license there, I won't be bringing my bike though 
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Jun 28, 2013 22:06
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Collateral Damage posted:shitload of good info Thanks for all that! I found a lot about taking a car driver's test (I can use my US licence for a year) but not so much on the motorcycle front. It's about what I was expecting. None of this will probably happen for 6 months or so because the public transport here is so kickass, but I've always wanted to get on a motorcycle. Nidhg00670000 posted:Where in Sweden are you? Stockholm.
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Jun 29, 2013 00:12
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Ashex posted:Is this the same everywhere in EU? I'm moving to Germany and have been considering getting a license there, I won't be bringing my bike though No and yes. Every country has its own rules, but they are quite similar (at least the dutch, french, german, norwegian, danish and swedish ones) especially coming from somewhere like the US.
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Jun 29, 2013 01:26
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Backov posted:That's odd and very non-EU like. I converted my Canadian license directly over to a UK license with no loss of endorsements except that I can't drive a manual car anymore, since there's no such endorsement in Canuckistan. That's just a benefit of being in the commonwealth. US license holders can't do that exchange, and I'm pretty sure Canadians can't do that exchange anywhere but the UK.
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Jun 29, 2013 01:37
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Am I doing somebody incredibly stupid if I cruise to a stop with the clutch disengaged and just tap down the gear shifter to 1st? Is it better to engage the transmission at each gear and then downshift?
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Jun 29, 2013 05:27
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No, when you're stopping it's fine to go through all of them at once. I'd downshift while you're still moving a little bit, it's kind of hard to do it when you're completely stopped.
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Jun 29, 2013 05:32
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notZaar posted:Am I doing somebody incredibly stupid if I cruise to a stop with the clutch disengaged and just tap down the gear shifter to 1st? Is it better to engage the transmission at each gear and then downshift? Theoretically if you downshift and clutch out as you slow, if you need to emergency maneuver / escape something (like a car behind you not slowing) you'll have engine power ready to help. So it's a good habit. It's not the end of the world if you skip some gears, though. Arguments about whether to wear your brakes or your clutch to slow down are largely academic, but personally I find the bike stays calmer on decel if the clutch is out.
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Jun 29, 2013 08:08
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This is a cross post, I accidentally posted it in the Motard thread instead of here. I'm going to pick up a 2008 WR250R tomorrow a couple hours away. The guy selling sent me a video of the biking idling. I know it's hard to tell from a video, but I was wondering if anyone wouldn't mind me emailing them the video and telling me if it sounds alright. I don't know if it's just the video or normal but it sounds like the exhaust sometimes misses a beat. It's really subtle and I don't have a ton of experience with bikes. Single cylinder engines are noisy in general but should the exhaust sound perfectly in beat or is it normal for them to have a quick stutter? You'd have to hear the video to know what I mean, like a said it's extremely subtle. Uploaded the video http://youtu.be/87NkCoEIaQA Moonbloodsflow fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Jun 29, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 08:17
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Moonbloodsflow posted:This is a cross post, I accidentally posted it in the Motard thread instead of here. Sounds fine to me, probably just a cold start is all. My X used to sound of exactly the same on a cold start. Also, dem slappy valves. I miss having a noisy motor.
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Jun 29, 2013 08:31
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I'm pretty sure it was a cold start. I'm picking it up for $3,000 but has just over 14k on it. It's in good shape tho, was used mainly on road as a commuter bike. Is that price fair?
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Jun 29, 2013 08:35
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notZaar posted:Am I doing somebody incredibly stupid if I cruise to a stop with the clutch disengaged and just tap down the gear shifter to 1st? Is it better to engage the transmission at each gear and then downshift? Just don't be clutching in and shifting down to 1st while you're coasting at 80mph, that's bad for things.
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Jun 29, 2013 13:22
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Why is that bad, mechanically?
epswing fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Jun 29, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 15:10
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Well for most bikes, 1st gear at 80mph is approximately 20,000 rpms. Literbike SSs excluded.
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Jun 29, 2013 16:52
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That's ok, I ride a 50cc 8 cylinder.
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Jun 29, 2013 18:55
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Shimrod posted:....holy crap. No wonder Europeans are such good riders. It's pretty involved, but it does mean we see about 1000% less of this  e: Our favourite pastimes are feeling vastly superior to the American squid and Layer Dan cultures, punctuated by weeping softly when we read about all the fantastic deals on gear and GoPros from websites that don't ship outside the US and Canada. Forty Two fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jun 29, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 20:02
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I disassembled my rear fender to find out why my rear blinkers would work on and off, only to realize they probably weren't grounded properly. I don't even know how they were grounded, I must have pulled the grounds while working the fender off. That said, only 2 wires on each side come out the harness. While testing I used the frame to ground but how do I go about making a solid ground connection that won't come loose over time? EDIT: Wrap the ground wire around a screw lodged into the frame? internet inc fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Jun 30, 2013 |
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Jun 29, 2013 21:53
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internet inc posted:I disassembled my rear fender to find out why my rear blinkers would work on and off, only to realize they probably weren't grounded properly. I don't even know how they were grounded, I must have pulled the grounds while working the fender off. Erm, you know blinkers are supposed to work on and off? 
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Jun 29, 2013 22:23
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Forty Two posted:It's pretty involved, but it does mean we see about 1000% less of this I'm going to pretend that his bike says "GRRL" there on the side  Also you wouldn't have to weep about missing deals if your motorcycle licensing process wasn't like 100 times more expensive than ours, just sayin. You could spend the remaining $1968 (I'm assuming the $2000 number mentioned earlier compared to California's fee) on some pretty sweet gear purchased from a place that will ship to you. But I do consider the low cost of American motorcycle licensing to mean there's no excuse for riding without actual gear...
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Jun 29, 2013 22:32
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epalm posted:Why is that bad, mechanically?
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Jun 30, 2013 00:07
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Also if you accidentally let the clutch out, regardless of how bad it is for your engine, you're pretty much guaranteed to have dramatic traction loss on the rear wheel. Unless you have a slipper clutch, I guess, but this discussion gets very different with slipper clutches
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Jun 30, 2013 01:37
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epalm posted:Why is that bad, mechanically? If it pushes you too far past the stock rev limit you may end up floating the valves (valves can't retract in time) and stuffing them into the piston. A slipper clutch won't save the motor from a mechanical overrev and you can still have dramatic rear traction loss with them. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jun 30, 2013 |
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Jun 30, 2013 05:59
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Because it'll spin clutch components at way beyond normal engine speeds, which can literally explode the clutch, so I'm told. Yeah other than the overrevving thing, way back my motorcycle instructor told me that, when coming to a stop and downshifting multiple gears with the clutch held in, one should gradually downshift instead of going down to 1st at 60mph because otherwise you'll damage the gearbox. Of course being able to let out the clutch and scoot off in a workable gear is nice too.
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Jun 30, 2013 09:21
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My friend's 2005 Victory Vegas 8ball has some odd tire wear, anyone have any ideas?
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Jul 1, 2013 00:59
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EX250 Type R posted:My friend's 2005 Victory Vegas 8ball has some odd tire wear, anyone have any ideas? Does he only ever ride on the NASCAR track? 
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Jul 1, 2013 01:19
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EX250 Type R posted:My friend's 2005 Victory Vegas 8ball has some odd tire wear, anyone have any ideas? It looks like that tyre's had it anyway, judging by the amount of tread left on the undamaged parts. I'd say it was just on it's last legs and started to delaminate.
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Jul 1, 2013 03:26
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Slavvy posted:It looks like that tyre's had it anyway, judging by the amount of tread left on the undamaged parts. I'd say it was just on it's last legs and started to delaminate. Those are the steel belts. That thing is dangerously shot to poo poo and should be replaced before it blows out. I wouldn't even ride on it until it is replaced. That wear pattern is unusual as well. Looks as funky as the car I drove for a year that was so badly out of alignment the steering wheel had to be at 3 o'clock to stay straight.
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Jul 1, 2013 03:47
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