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HNasty posted:Depends on much weight matters to you, I looked at the CB1000R before as well but for some wacky reason it's way heavier than the CBR1000RR, my guess is the single sided swing arm, IIRC wet it clocks in at almost 500LB. Mean while CBR1000RR is in the low 400s wet. Supposed the bikes share a platform, I have no idea how the managed to add 80 lbs. The CB1000R produces decent torks but it's kinda high up in the range. Man, HNasty dropping the truth bombs.
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Jul 8, 2013 19:34
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Super Lube posted:I have always wanted a CB1000R since they came out and I am in a current financial situation where I can finally afford one however since Yamaha announced the FZ-09 I can't really decide between the two. I like the idea of the lighter and narrower FZ-09, but I'm concerned it being a fist year model, mostly due to the new motor Yamaha is using for it. However, there is a 2011 CB1000R with 1600 miles on it for $7,900 locally that I am considering which seems like a really good deal at least for the area plus the fit and finish of Honda bikes always seemed better than what Yamaha offered. The MSRP for the FZ09 is 8k so pricing would be similar between the two. The only slight word of warning I'd raise is that 1600 miles in two-and-a-bit years suggests plaything which often translates to "not maintained or ridden particularly well". I mean, it's a Honda, so it's not like it's going to seize solid the moment you open it up, but make sure you look it over very carefully. I'm not the best person to ask about Japanese bikes but I'd definitely agree with you from my non-first-hand comparisons between the two - while of course almost all production bikes are built down to a price, Yamaha do seem to show it more than Honda.
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Jul 8, 2013 20:37
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HotCanadianChick posted:Funny, I feel the same way with the cruiser riding position. It's less that you're riding the bike and more that you're just hanging on to the bars and trying not to slide off the back. It's terrible, you can't feel how the bike's weight is moving under you, you can't put your weight on the pegs going over bumps/rough patches, you can't really lean your weight well during cornering, you're just kind of hanging on and following the bike's lead instead of actually controlling it. And every bump is like a jackhammer right up your tailbone, so they're terrible for long distance riding too. Tell that to this guy http://youtu.be/sBngfmXsihc?t=12s E: Whoops, that was two pages ago.. epswing fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Jul 9, 2013 |
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Jul 8, 2013 22:25
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HNasty posted:Depends on much weight matters to you, I looked at the CB1000R before as well but for some wacky reason it's way heavier than the CBR1000RR, my guess is the single sided swing arm, IIRC wet it clocks in at almost 500LB. Mean while CBR1000RR is in the low 400s wet. Supposed the bikes share a platform, I have no idea how the managed to add 80 lbs. The CB1000R produces decent torks but it's kinda high up in the range. CB1000R and fireblade have the same basic engine but the weight difference is in the predator's steel frame vs blade's alloy. I'd argue that the blade would feel 'heavier' at low speed because of the handlebar and riding position difference anyway.
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Jul 8, 2013 23:11
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HNasty posted:Depends on much weight matters to you, I looked at the CB1000R before as well but for some wacky reason it's way heavier than the CBR1000RR, my guess is the single sided swing arm, IIRC wet it clocks in at almost 500LB. Mean while CBR1000RR is in the low 400s wet. Supposed the bikes share a platform, I have no idea how the managed to add 80 lbs. The CB1000R produces decent torks but it's kinda high up in the range. I am coming from a '07 R6 and I have only ever ridden jap I4 SS's save for the ninja250 I learned on. I just can't ride them for very long (30mins max) without my legs cramping up even though I'm only 5'7". I am mainly looking for something that is still sporty yet reasonably comfortable and has decent torque numbers for around town. I'm also open to other suggestions as well, but these two really caught my eye. I think for now I am leaning towards waiting for the Yamaha. goddamnedtwisto posted:The only slight word of warning I'd raise is that 1600 miles in two-and-a-bit years suggests plaything which often translates to "not maintained or ridden particularly well". I mean, it's a Honda, so it's not like it's going to seize solid the moment you open it up, but make sure you look it over very carefully. I'm not the best person to ask about Japanese bikes but I'd definitely agree with you from my non-first-hand comparisons between the two - while of course almost all production bikes are built down to a price, Yamaha do seem to show it more than Honda. Yeah that was one of main concerns with the bike, luckily it is in an area where a good known bike mechanic is so I can easily have him check it out.
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Jul 8, 2013 23:48
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goddamnedtwisto posted:The only slight word of warning I'd raise is that 1600 miles in two-and-a-bit years suggests plaything which often translates to "not maintained or ridden particularly well". This has been my experience as well. A 1600 mile 2 1/2 year old Harley is likely to be babied beyond belief, but a Japanese bike...well they're just for getting around. I needed something to compare to the Yamaha Bolt so I test drove a used trade-in 2007 Shadow Spirit 750 with around 3k miles. While the Shadow had not been overly abused, its previous owner certainly did not maintain it well. The paint on the tank and rear fender was scuffed, the throttle response was off, and the front end had a slight pulsating feeling going on. Ridden hard and put away wet, as it were. My 88 Honda Hawk felt (and looked) brand new by comparison.
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Jul 9, 2013 00:04
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Super Lube posted:I am coming from a '07 R6 and I have only ever ridden jap I4 SS's save for the ninja250 I learned on. I just can't ride them for very long (30mins max) without my legs cramping up even though I'm only 5'7". I am mainly looking for something that is still sporty yet reasonably comfortable and has decent torque numbers for around town. I'm also open to other suggestions as well, but these two really caught my eye. I think for now I am leaning towards waiting for the Yamaha. I know I'm just a local Bandit whore but a B12 is torquey and comfy for people with long legs and with suspension upgrades you won't be able to outride it any time soon. That, and they're like 2-3 grand for a cherry one and run forever and ever. The newer ones are water cooled but you can't get as insane numbers with their aftermarket upgrades. I really like mine a ton and I know a lot of other people here like theirs as well.
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Jul 9, 2013 00:17
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Super Lube posted:I am coming from a '07 R6 and I have only ever ridden jap I4 SS's save for the ninja250 I learned on. I just can't ride them for very long (30mins max) without my legs cramping up even though I'm only 5'7". I am mainly looking for something that is still sporty yet reasonably comfortable and has decent torque numbers for around town. I'm also open to other suggestions as well, but these two really caught my eye. I think for now I am leaning towards waiting for the Yamaha. Ducati Streetfighter 848 would be fun if you have the $$$ other than that look at older Tuonos, Street/Speed triples etc... I had an R6, that ish ain't meant for the street.
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Jul 9, 2013 00:17
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HNasty posted:I guess army boots might be slightly better than wearing sneakers, they're by no means a replacement for Motorcycle riding boots. Your ankles and feet are very complex and delicate things, spend the money to protects them. I mean I could be wrong, do army boots have toe and heel boxes and anti torsional stuff? Yeah I just need something to get myself thru my BMC. I'll buy real gear once I get around to buying a bike.
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Jul 9, 2013 00:34
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Greetings motorcycle riding goons. My girlfriend wants to buy a cheap used bike to ride to work. I plan on riding it around town as well. The problem is, we don't even know where to begin. Obviously training and licensure. As far as safety gear, all we have is my Snell 2010 full face helmet I bought for car tracking, so recommendations in this area would be good too. Onto the bike. She is around 5'7" and 100 pounds max, and I'm 5'10" and around 160 lbs with clothes on. Whatever we buy needs to seat two, be capable of highway travel, and be relatively simple as I will be maintaining it. She doesn't want anything fast and although this may sound stupid, safety is the top priority. Don't know if it matters, but we ride both road and mountain bicycles quite a bit and I'm reasonably mechanically inclined for bicycles and cars and feel confident I could deal with a simple motorcycle. Oh and neither of us has ever been on a motorcycle. So, what do you guys think?
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Jul 10, 2013 19:14
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You two are going to have a blast together, wish I could do it all over again  If I were you, I'd stop by my local motorcycle dealership (almost doesn't matter which) and sit on as many bikes as I can. This will give you a feel for different seating positions between sport bikes, dual sports, cruisers, etc. While it may not tell you what you are looking for, it might tell you what you are definitely not looking for, as far as style of bike. epswing fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Jul 10, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 19:17
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You should both take the MSF course, and then after that if you still want a bike look at cheap bikes such as Kawasaki Ninja 250, Suzuki GS500, or maybe a SV650. Budget more than you think the bike will cost because you'll both be spending around $500 minimum in gear as well. If you're commuting on the bike, think more like $1000 for gear because you'll want to be comfortable, as well as have good gear for rainy days. Riding a motorcycle isn't necessarily the cheapest form of transportation, maintenance will be more frequent, as well as replacing wear items like brakes and tires.
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Jul 10, 2013 19:18
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What Korwen said. MSF, good gear. Also be sure to budget for a second bike once you realize one just isn't enough for the both of you.
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Jul 10, 2013 19:20
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Ninja 250 is a terrible idea if you're going to be riding 2 up a lot. Go try to sit on some bikes then look for one of the larger starter bikes that fits you well.
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Jul 10, 2013 19:24
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Crap, I didn't see that they were going to be riding 2 up. Disregard that.
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Jul 10, 2013 19:25
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First, no matter what you do, don't go in on a bike together. Second, bikes can save money over cars, but there's a lot more to it than gas mileage. Be sure it's something you want to do aside from the cost savings or be prepared for disappointment. There's increased maintenance in bikes vs cars, there's gear, there's blah blah blah. You should both take the MSF beginner's course. Their insurance, their bikes, and your learning. It will Illinois sponsors it so it's free here. Some other states may be the same. If not, it'll pay for itself in gear discounts and insurance breaks. From there the usual suspects. Ninja 500, SV650, 750 cruiser of choice. :edit: You guys are too fast :O
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Jul 10, 2013 19:25
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Thank for all the input guys. Saving money isn't *really* what she wants to do. She has a 12 mile commute and she can drive a car but parking is 14 $/day at her office lot, motorcycles exempt. So instead of that, she usually takes the light rail since her company gave her an ecopass (free public in an around Denver) but it takes an hour each way and is filled with sketch balls. She knows it will be an average cost increase from her current routine. I think the idea of just sitting on a few and seeing what comfortable. Maybe we'll do that this weekend. Is there a required course to take or is the MSF just "strongly recommended"? We are going to do it either way but like I said, we don't know what the gently caress. What are the extra maintenance items over a car? I envision chain lubing, but brake pads wear out on cars too. In the end cheap really isn't the goal, but we don't want to dive in to something new and shiny and expensive as our first bike. Similarly I don't want a heap of crap that needs work every weekend since I already maintain her Subaru, my STi and 335i, and our six bicycles. (Jesus writing that down makes me think I/we need to downsize) Final question for now: what's so bad about going in on one together? THE BLACK NINJA fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 10, 2013 20:02
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2-up on a Ninja 250 really isn't that bad. I did it all the time before on and off freeways and my fiancee and I both weigh more than The Black Ninja and his girlfriend. MSF waives the road portion of the DMV test in California; in Texas it's required to get the M endorsement; no idea what the requirements are in Colorado but I'd imagine it's gonna be similar. If you guys are gonna be riding a lot you might as well look into getting 2 bikes. Bluetooth communicators like the Sena SMH10 will make things easier when you're out together.
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Jul 10, 2013 20:17
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Sounds like you're interested for the right reasons. MSF isn't required but it's a very cheap way to get some saddle time and find out if it's everything you had hoped it would be. Not to mention you learn everything correctly right out of the gate, which means you don't need to unlearn any terrible habits or techniques that were learned based on terrible advice.THE BLACK NINJA posted:Final question for now: what's so bad about going in on one together? We are soon to be married anyway... Oh well in that case never mind. Maint: Chain lubing, chain adjusting, winterizing, spring warm-up, more regular fluid changes, more regular tire replacement (5-10k miles or 2-4 years), fuel blockages, valve adjustments, carb/throttle body syncing, etc. It's not like they always need something. It's just that the average econobox sedan needs nothing but fuel, oil, and air filters for years at a time. Bikes can be the same way, but there's no jiffy lube for bikes. It's doing it yourself, finding a great shop, or waiting in line at a dealership for weeks only to get a massive bill. So for the same stuff it'd take 20 minutes at a local oil change place it's something you tinker with at home for a morning/afternoon is all. Bikes are performance vehicles, and have maintenance schedules more akin to those.
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Jul 10, 2013 20:23
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Halo_4am posted:more regular tire replacement (5-10k miles or 2-4 years),
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Jul 10, 2013 21:39
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Nitrox posted:You're thinking performance tires. Road rubber is good for up to 8 years, depending on the brand. And it's likely to hit age limit before wearing out. Generally, all tire makers regardless of type of tire recommend a 5 year lifespan.
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Jul 10, 2013 21:41
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Nitrox posted:You're thinking performance tires. Road rubber is good for up to 8 years, depending on the brand. And it's likely to hit age limit before wearing out. What? When's the last time you saw a set of motorcycle tires get past 10,000 miles?
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Jul 10, 2013 21:46
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Most of mine seem to go out before 5k. But as a Ducati owner  , I ride like a dong.
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Jul 10, 2013 22:09
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Nerobro posted:What? When's the last time you saw a set of motorcycle tires get past 10,000 miles? I saw it happen. On an RG150.
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Jul 10, 2013 22:28
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Nerobro posted:What? When's the last time you saw a set of motorcycle tires get past 10,000 miles? I got a set of PR3s on with about 7500 miles on them that I think will make it to 10.
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Jul 10, 2013 22:44
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Nerobro posted:What? When's the last time you saw a set of motorcycle tires get past 10,000 miles? PR2s will do more than that on a 600 or SV.
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Jul 10, 2013 22:50
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I mean, what does a good street tire set cost? Tires for my cars are fuckin ridiculously expensive and I wore out my last set of summers on my sti in about 9k miles. 
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Jul 11, 2013 00:11
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I mean, what does a good street tire set cost? Tires for my cars are fuckin ridiculously expensive and I wore out my last set of summers on my sti in about 9k miles. PR3's cost me $600NZD fitted for my ZRX1200, this is a fairly good price, the quoted retail at that shop was in the 700 region fitted. I hope they last long 
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Jul 11, 2013 00:13
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I mean, what does a good street tire set cost? Tires for my cars are fuckin ridiculously expensive and I wore out my last set of summers on my sti in about 9k miles. $120 front, $150 rear, give or take.
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Jul 11, 2013 00:16
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Final question for now: what's so bad about going in on one together? We are soon to be married anyway... If you're both going to be riding it around, neither one of you will want to ride cupcake. Nerobro posted:What? When's the last time you saw a set of motorcycle tires get past 10,000 miles? The PR2s on the ULy lasted 10k miles, and it was so short because I picked up a puncture. I had the stock Dunlops on my vstar last 13k, and the Metzeler ME880s I replaced those with lasted another 10k and had plenty of tread left when I sold the bike. My wife is at about 12k on her PR2s, and my friend who also rides a Uly had his PR2s last 15k mi. I don't see many street bike tires last less than 10k. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 00:23
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clutchpuck posted:ride cupcake.
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Jul 11, 2013 00:25
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Z3n posted:Generally, all tire makers regardless of type of tire recommend a 5 year lifespan. To stay on topic, I found a new bike to replace the good old 150, a 2002 Suzuki Boulevard 1500. It's a little unnerving to have twice the weight and 5 times the torque, but also loads of fun. Growing a beard and shopping for chaps as we speak.
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Jul 11, 2013 04:18
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I am buying a motorcycle within the month, my first motorcycle. All I know is that I want one, I have some money, I scheduled the classes, and I couldn't care less what kind as long as it's not a scooter because gross. I'm looking at UJMs the most, or maybe a kawasaki ninja. I'm probably going to buy something on craigslist, and I don't mind fixing something up in order to get it running. Am I ultimately unrealistic in looking for something for around $800? What are things I should really worry about, like (from what I've read so far) rust in the gas tank, metal shavings in the oil, bald tires, etc? How can you tell if the forks are messed up, do they just look crooked or something? OH yeah, and how bad are registration fees in California? Like, really bad? I'd appreciate the help, to be honest I've been reading up on motorcycles for three days and i'm still not even solid on most of the vocabulary.
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Jul 11, 2013 08:07
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for sale posted:I am buying a motorcycle within the month, my first motorcycle. All I know is that I want one, I have some money, I scheduled the classes, and I couldn't care less what kind as long as it's not a scooter because gross. I'm looking at UJMs the most, or maybe a kawasaki ninja. I'm probably going to buy something on craigslist, and I don't mind fixing something up in order to get it running. How mechanically handy are you in general? If you've messed around with cars a bit, transitioning into bikes is pretty simple and there isn't too much you can gently caress up catastrophically. I'd focus on getting something that you're comfortable on, doesn't intimidate you and isn't too exotic or complex. You can worry about looking cool/going fast/parking by starbucks later, you want something solid and forgiving to learn on. Ninja 250 gets trotted out a lot here because it ticks basically every box for beginner bikes. For that sort of price, the tyres are pretty much guaranteed to be hosed so count on having to buy some regardless. Forks are easy; stand astride the bike and stare straight down the forks, you'll be able to see straight away if they're badly bent. I think you'll have a hard time spotting any metal shavings in the oil on a bike that runs, unless it's truly, desperately hosed. Generally, if it runs smoothly and sounds 'right' it usually is; that being said, don't let stuttering, hesitation or roughness put you off as these are usually attributable to minor fuel/spark related and don't necessarily mean the engine is hosed at all. In general I'm of the opinion that newer=better for starting bikes, up to a point. New-ish bikes tend to be easy to work on, without any of the baffling idiosyncrasies, parts supply problems and general fuckedness of really ancient bikes. Much like any vehicle really. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 08:35
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So my GS suzuki has broken down and I've spent too much money trying to fix it to be worth it. I'm interested in a mix of city commuting as well as traveling long distances. I don't want a cruiser or some gold wing I'm thinking of a sport touring motorcycle like the suzuki v-strom? I may also want to go camping, in which case do you think I would be better off with a dual purpose bike? What are the pros and cons of each? Anyone have any other suggestions? Is there a list of dual sport motorcycles to recommend, with primarily riding in the city dogpower fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 12:41
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dogpower posted:I'm thinking of a sport touring motorcycle like the suzuki v-strom? I may also want to go camping, in which case do you think I would be better off with a dual purpose bike? I think the VStrom is a dualsport, technically.
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Jul 11, 2013 12:48
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Safety Dance posted:I think the VStrom is a dualsport, technically. Yeah I think you're right. I've been looking at sport touring bikes and they look more like high powered street racing bikes. The insurance I would have to pay to ride those here in BC would probably be insane.
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Jul 11, 2013 12:58
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dogpower posted:Yeah I think you're right. I've been looking at sport touring bikes and they look more like high powered street racing bikes. The insurance I would have to pay to ride those here in BC would probably be insane. The look like high powered street racing bikes because of all the plastic, which just makes them more aerodynamic and comfortable. If you compare the seating position and power numbers, you'll find that the sport touring segment is a lot more upright and conservative than the sport or supersport segment. Examples: Honda ST1300 (sport touring):  Honda VFR1200 (sport):  Compare Ergonomics: ST:  VFR:  Power: ST: 117hp VFR: 170hp The Sport Touring bike has a bigger engine, but it makes less eyeball-bleeding power. It's a lot better for, as the name of the segment suggests, touring. Edit: Sport tourers are going to be a little more powerful than bikes in the Adventure / Dualsport segment, but you pay a little bit of an ADV tax for those. Dualsports are neat if you plan to do any kind of offroad exploration, but they can be suboptimal for long stretches on the road. I wrote this once: http://2strokeworld.com/bikewiki/index.php?title=Dual_Sport What do you want to do on a bike? Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 13:14
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dogpower posted:Yeah I think you're right. I've been looking at sport touring bikes and they look more like high powered street racing bikes. The insurance I would have to pay to ride those here in BC would probably be insane. Factory STs are truly fantastic IMHO. It's really hard to go wrong with any of the recent ones. However, and this is going back almost 15+ years, ICBC has a lot of its rate based on displacement. A 1300CC+ Sport Tourer will almost certainly be expensive to insure, especially if you're not an old fart like me. Make some rate queries on big STs if they float your boat before you get really serious. They can be quite powerful out of the box depending which make/model you go with. A stock C14 is over 160+HPso it's easy to get into trouble. You can put luggage on virtually anything and make it a suitable camping rig and commuting device. slidebite fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Jul 12, 2013 |
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Jul 11, 2013 14:17
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Linedance posted:$120 front, $150 rear, give or take. Jesus, I wish it was that cheap for me. I was quoted something like $180 for the front and $230 for the rear on my Shadow 1100, not including $65 per tire to have them mounted. Halo_4am, you live in the same general area that I do. Where do you go to get your tires done? The prices I listed above were at Honda House in Elmhurst on 83.
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Jul 11, 2013 16:49
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