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clutchpuck posted:Front up. When you are leaving, would you rather waddle backwards up a hill or use the engine to chug forward? That, and gravity pulling the bike locks the kickstand out, as opposed to it being able to fold in. Partial Octopus posted:So I have almost 200 miles on my bike already. After talking to some people and watching some M13 videos I decided that I probably should have done the hard break-in method. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Is it too late to switch over to this? The factory break in recommends 300 miles while varying the rpms as much as possible. Don't worry about it. ed: also M13 is kinda a tool nsaP fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 19:50
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Partial Octopus posted:So I have almost 200 miles on my bike already. After talking to some people and watching some M13 videos I decided that I probably should have done the hard break-in method. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Is it too late to switch over to this? The factory break in recommends 300 miles while varying the rpms as much as possible. There are basically two schools of thought on how to properly break in an engine. Mototune guy vs. everyone else in the entire world. If it really worked as well as he claims, everyone would be doing it by now. For some reason, he thinks he knows better than the engineers who design the engines. It's on the same level as fuel-saving magnets and "vortex generators", it's all bullshit. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jul 16, 2013 |
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Jul 16, 2013 20:00
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clutchpuck posted:Front up. When you are leaving, would you rather waddle backwards up a hill or use the engine to chug forward? Also, if you use the centerstand, face the bike so that gravity keeps it down, so point it uphill.
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Jul 16, 2013 20:08
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KozmoNaut posted:There are basically two schools of thought on how to properly break in an engine. Mototune guy vs. everyone else in the entire world. I think you'll find a lot of high end cars get broken in on the dyno...
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Jul 16, 2013 20:11
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I am of the school of thought that you really don't need to be as gentle on the engine as manufacturer guidelines suggest, and in some cases found those guidelines to be ridiculous. Like keeping a Ninja 250 under 4k for the first 500 miles. So I'd buy that riding an engine hard does some miracle thing, but: quote:Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ?? This guy is clearly retarded and I wouldn't take his advice too seriously.
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Jul 16, 2013 20:14
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BlackMK4 posted:I think you'll find a lot of high end cars get broken in on the dyno... Completely unneccesary. The rings seat within seconds, there's no need for extended break-in periods on modern engines. Just start it, get it up to temp and drive it, don't baby it. Also, what Halo_4am said.
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Jul 16, 2013 20:15
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BlackMK4 posted:I think you'll find a lot of high end cars get broken in on the dyno... I think pretty much every car sold gets 'broken in on the dyno' as part of the factory QA process these days. E: which is probably what Kozmo above me is saying.
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Jul 16, 2013 20:17
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Octopus, one thing I would consider would be changing the oil sooner than the recommended interval in the manual. Use decent oil rated for bikes and keep up with it, and you'll be golden.
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Jul 17, 2013 01:07
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Schroeder91 posted:What do you do when you're on the freeway on ramp and the ramp meter is going? I just started commuting to work and take the freeway so I get stopped but it wasn't changing for me and the other lane didn't seem to care to let me go, so I just had to gun it as soon as a car in their lane went. Should I just follow the car in front of me when theirs goes green or what? I don't wanna get creamed or sit at a red forever. Same with red lights, do you just go if it's all clear? The only metered on-ramp I use frequently is double-laned, fairly heavily inclined and often lined up 10-15 cars deep. I have taken to splitting up to the front and timing to blast straight through on the red. This will probably result in a ticket someday but I like to think that since I'm eligible to use the diamond lane (and diamond lane on-ramps don't have to stop), I am vaguely within the bounds of the law and/or no one will really care. The distance from the meter light to the 65mph+ merge is actually really short there, and I'll risk a ticket before I risk getting smeared by an 18wheeler. As Hunter Thompson said, "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." Red lights on sidestreets are different - I ran one just once, and that was at 3AM. Running a cross-traffic red just feels way too dangerous, unless you can see pretty drat far in both directions. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 01:43
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Xovaan posted:My bike isn't leaking oil from the valve cover anymore but it's still losing oil.  you're burning itBut you probably knew that MotoMind posted:
Thanks for that. The first photos I saw in that thread were no longer visible (I assume because it's too old) but I didn't look far enough  I can't really give advice on the exact bearing, HOWEVER, according to the thread it's a nominal 40x70x30 which is indeed an odd size. However, 40x70x15 bearings are sourceable if you can run them back/back which would at least save the 1mm sleeve that one fellow made in the thread. Can't help with the magnetic pick up shield though unless a guy could maybe pop one of the seals off the new bearing and see if it fits.. but that's just a guess. slidebite fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 02:20
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Anybody get tingley fingers? I just went for a quick 40 mile round trip on the highway and now my hands feel like they're made of dozens of tiny springs. Maybe I'm gripping too tight?
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Jul 17, 2013 03:16
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notZaar posted:Anybody get tingley fingers? I just went for a quick 40 mile round trip on the highway and now my hands feel like they're made of dozens of tiny springs. Maybe I'm gripping too tight? Depending on the bike, you have buzzy bars. My friend on his ninja 600 would get those within about 20 minutes. Filling the bars with sand fixed the issue as they didn't buzz after that. I suspect bar-end weights or similar would also help; new grips may, but probably won't.
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Jul 17, 2013 03:23
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notZaar posted:Anybody get tingley fingers? I just went for a quick 40 mile round trip on the highway and now my hands feel like they're made of dozens of tiny springs. Maybe I'm gripping too tight? Yes, check your posture and your grip. After you've been riding for a while, try to make a point of noticing how hard you're holding the bars. I've had this happen on every bike I've owned and ridden any significant amount. It's always operator error in my opinion.. as opposed to a horribly sore rear end which is generally due to woeful OEM equipment and a fat operators rear end
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Jul 17, 2013 03:24
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Kawasaki advocates the same break in regardless of what bike it is, and that bikes redline. It probably matters less on modern bikes, but old bikes would definitely fail to seat rings if they werent ridden hard enough. I think motoman has a little truth and a lot of unverified extrapolation.
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Jul 17, 2013 04:14
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velocross posted:Octopus, one thing I would consider would be changing the oil sooner than the recommended interval in the manual. Use decent oil There, much better. Bike-specific oil is a scam. As long as you stick to the specified type and viscosity and avoid energy-conserving oils, it's fine.
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Jul 17, 2013 07:01
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Xovaan posted:My bike isn't leaking oil from the valve cover anymore but it's still losing oil. Is there a spot of oil on the ground or is oil mysteriously disappearing, i.e. being consumed? Could be the valve stem oil seals.
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Jul 17, 2013 11:37
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KozmoNaut posted:There, much better. This is a little disingenuous. There are a lot of "car" oils in common weights that are known to be fine for bikes, like Rotella T. But you should always get a look at the technical sheet before just chucking any oil in. Whether or not they advertise as energy-conserving or not is not a guarantee of compatibility. Also, for weights outside the common ranges they are often the same price. The 10W60 Unicorn Tears that my KTM wants is the same price for cars or bikes.
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Jul 17, 2013 14:39
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notZaar posted:Anybody get tingley fingers? I just went for a quick 40 mile round trip on the highway and now my hands feel like they're made of dozens of tiny springs. Maybe I'm gripping too tight? You might try changing out your grips. The stock ones on my V-Strom were so thin and terrible it hosed with my hands. Put some better ones on and now they're mostly fine. Be sure to change your hand positions up: stretch your fingers out and rest them on the levers and put your thumbs out and rest them on the controls.
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Jul 17, 2013 14:53
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ReelBigLizard posted:The 10W60 Unicorn Tears that my KTM wants is the same price for cars or bikes. Oh god it must be so expensive to do an oil change on a car that runs 10W60.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:03
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E: Alfa Romeo Twinspark engines prefer 10W60, as far as I can remember. Racing heritage and all that. Oh, and they burn about 100ml of oil every 1000km by design and A LOT more if you drive them properly (hard and fast). Alfa owners tend to have very bad cases of Stockholm Syndrome.ReelBigLizard posted:This is a little disingenuous. There are a lot of "car" oils in common weights that are known to be fine for bikes, like Rotella T. But you should always get a look at the technical sheet before just chucking any oil in. Whether or not they advertise as energy-conserving or not is not a guarantee of compatibility. As long as it meets the right API and ACEA specs or better than specified in the manual (which pretty much all mainstream oils do these days), it's not a problem. Lower ZDDP content in modern oils isn't an issue, unless you have metal to metal contact going in. In which case, you have problems that are a lot more serious than your choice of oil, like a complete lack of oil pressure altogether. It's much more important to change the oil and filter at regular intervals than it is to get the exact precise kind of unicorn jizz oil that some dude on the internet told you was the only oil that won't kill your engine. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 15:05
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KozmoNaut posted:E: Alfa Romeo Twinspark engines prefer 10W60, as far as I can remember. Racing heritage and all that. Oh, and they burn about 100ml of oil every 1000km by design and A LOT more if you drive them properly (hard and fast). Alfa owners tend to have very bad cases of Stockholm Syndrome. Had to google this. http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-and-gt/31396-twin-spark-engine-oil-consumption.html So much fun to read about basket cases. quote:
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Jul 17, 2013 15:22
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KozmoNaut posted:It's much more important to change the oil and filter at regular intervals than it is to get the exact precise kind of unicorn jizz oil that some dude on the internet told you was the only oil that won't kill your engine. I think this is true to a certain extent. I don't go by the manufacturer brand recomendation on the KTM, but I do put the recomended weight/quality in because it's only got a 1.7l sump and the motor is quite highly strung. My Honda and Yamaha get whatever is cheap and roughly the right weight. Zool posted:Oh god it must be so expensive to do an oil change on a car that runs 10W60. Apparently it's used in the newer BMW M cars. The M3 takes just over 5 litres. loving hell. ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 15:40
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ReelBigLizard posted:I think this is true to a certain extent. I don't go by the manufacturer brand recomendation on the KTM, but I do put the recomended weight/quality in because it's only got a 1.7l sump and the motor is quite highly strung. My Honda and Yamaha get whatever is cheap and roughly the right weight. That's a special case though, "ready to race" etc. and a 1.7l sump is hilariously tiny. What's the change interval, 1000km?
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Jul 17, 2013 15:45
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Going back to the tingling thing, it is 100% how you are holding the grips. The first time I rode a bike with clipons for an extended amount of time I ended up with what's called cyclist's palsy for a week. My hands were so weak that I couldn't grip doorknobs hard enough to turn them.
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Jul 17, 2013 15:55
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3000mi - but I always change it at around 2000mi because I do a lot of short journey, stop-and-start riding and that seems to destroy oil quicker. The 690 LC4 is an astounding piece of engineering but it seems to be designed right to the edge of specifications. I'm sort of reminded of the differences between the Russian and Western approaches to aircraft engineering. We'd design a jet to meet or exceed a specification, and then get the test pilots to verify that it does what we expect. The Russian way was to look at what we built, build an equivalent looking plane to the edge of what they thought they could get away with, and hand it to the test pilots. "Tell us what it can do."
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Jul 17, 2013 15:56
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ReelBigLizard posted:Apparently it's used in the newer BMW M cars. The M3 takes just over 5 litres. loving hell. The wife's Ford Fiesta takes 8 liters of oil. Insanity. At least you can put the cheap stuff in it.
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Jul 17, 2013 16:26
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KozmoNaut posted:That's a special case though, "ready to race" etc. and a 1.7l sump is hilariously tiny. What's the change interval, 1000km? 2012 up the 690s oil change interval is 10000km (6214 miles) or annually according to the owners manual...
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Jul 17, 2013 17:02
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Nidhg00670000 posted:2012 up the 690s oil change interval is 10000km (6214 miles) or annually according to the owners manual... It must have an amazing oil filter. My Bandit has a 3.3l sump and a 6000km/annual oil change interval (12000km for the filter). Of course, that's an rear end-old air-cooled engine, so yeah.
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Jul 17, 2013 17:22
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KozmoNaut posted:There, much better. Yeah, things like Jaso MA rating and non energy conserving is what I meant. I was trying to not to start an oil debate, but that didn't happen 
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Jul 17, 2013 17:54
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Speaking of tingly fingers, has anyone had any issues with pain and weakness in their arms after riding? Crossposting from Goon Docotor thread.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:04
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velocross posted:Yeah, things like Jaso MA rating and non energy conserving is what I meant. I was trying to not to start an oil debate, but that didn't happen JASO is just Japan's automotive standards organization, equivalent to SAE or ACEA. Most manufacturers don't bother with the JASO certifications, even though almost all non-EC oils meet or exceed the JASO MA specification, since it costs money to certify and doesn't really matter for products not sold in Japan. I'll shut up now and use my cheap oil.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:10
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Partial Octopus posted:Speaking of tingly fingers, has anyone had any issues with pain and weakness in their arms after riding? Crossposting from Goon Docotor thread. Take the advice from the other thread. weavernaut posted:Ah, that sounds like carpal tunnel syndrome, then. hosed up fingers, stiff arms, and odd pains don't result from working a clutch as a result of light riding, I don't care how retarded you're gripping the clutch. Tennis elbow on the other hand :edit: If it were related to repeated and bad posture you'd more likely be suffering one or two problem areas. Not several, and not med/long term weakness. - Biker M.D.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:12
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Well it could be a hosed up nerve or carpal tunnel like the good goon doctors say. I doubt it tho. I'd say you're probably too tight on the bars and using grip muscles you've never really used before. I doubt the pull on a cbr250's clutch is very heavy, but if you aren't used to doing it, it can definitely wear out your forearm muscles. On top of that it sounds like you might be both gripping the bars too tightly, and keeping your arms/shoulders tight as well. Pay attention to that next time and see if it's the case. You want as relaxed a grip as possible while still being able to control the bike, and you should be able to flap your arms like a duck while holding the bars. If you can't do it, you're too stiff. For the sore arm, get one of these or just ride more. I doubt you have carpal tunnel or anything like that. Sounds like normal new rider aches as you learn to ride.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:13
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Yeah, I'd lean towards goony noodle-arms unused to the work + newbie posture locking arms & not gripping with the legs, before I'd jump towards carpal tunnel. Pretty much any new active hobby will leave you feeling like rear end until your body adjusts.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:21
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One of the best bits of advice I've ever had about stopping death-gripping (and other tightness that can cause all sorts of problems with handling and control) is to (before you first pull away, and whenever you stop for a few seconds) breathe in and consciously tense up as hard as you can, from your shoulders all the way down to your fingers, then relax as you breathe out. It's surprising how you feel muscles you weren't even aware were tense relaxing on the breathe out. It's a really good discipline for newbies but is also handy even for old fucks with a million miles if they're on an unfamiliar bike or in stressful conditions.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:30
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I've actually been paying very close attention to not holding on to the bars tightly. But I do live in Pittsburgh so I am in stop and go traffic a lot so holding down that clutch can get tiring even though it's light. It's most likely just my noodle arms but seeing a doctor can't hurt. The thing is I still get the tightness in my arm even when I'm in a relaxed body position with my arm bent. I never experienced this on my road bicycle before, so it's kind of strange.
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Jul 17, 2013 18:31
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Ola posted:Is there a spot of oil on the ground or is oil mysteriously disappearing, i.e. being consumed? Could be the valve stem oil seals. Could be this. Argh. Yeah, no leaks or anything on my garage floor-- just mysteriously gone. 
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Jul 17, 2013 18:35
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It sounds exactly like what I went through, especially the weak hand. Mention cyclist's palsy to your Doc, which is a form of nerve damage that can take anywhere from a week (me) to months to heal.
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Jul 17, 2013 19:10
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Just got back from from the doctor. She gave me a splint to wear at night. It's possibly carpal tunnel or cyclist's palsy. She said if it doesn't feel better in a week then I should get a a neurologist. I don't have to stop riding and I should get padded gloves if possible.
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Jul 17, 2013 19:54
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Yeah, buy gloves with good palm/heel padding if at all possible. If I ride for an hour or so with my gloves they feel the same as if I had driven my car; doing the same without them and I get a "light" feeling in my palms and it takes a few minutes for everything to feel normal again after I've gotten off. I highly recommend getting some kind of extra butt pad if you plan on commuting regularly or otherwise taking long trips with any frequency, most OEM seats are indeed crap and will hurt your tailbone/butt after a while.
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Jul 17, 2013 20:51
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