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MotoMind posted:What kind of fits is it giving you? What's your goal? Are you willing to rebuild it if necessary? Detail can help. My goal is to get it to start on the first pull and turn off when I tell it to. I've had it mostly apart already. I took off the shaft and had the carb, carb bracket and the fuel tank off. I got stopped at the torx bolt holding the... PTO (I guess?) onto the crankshaft. I couldn't figure out how to get it loose without the crankshaft turning. Anyway, my string trimmer will only start on full choke, will die if you give it too much gas too fast once it is started and switched back to open choke, and once you have it running the kill switch is merely a suggestion. It likes to flutter until it finally decides to stop. It's record is 45 seconds after I switched it off. So far I've replaced the carburetor gasket, the gasket for its mounting bracket, all the fuel lines and the guy I bought it from a month ago claimed he gave it a new spark plug. I also disassembled the carburetor fully and meticulously cleaned it inside. All of the carb's internal gaskets and other pieces looked in perfect condition too. As for the kill switch, the switch itself rang out just fine with my multimeter for both on and off. Also, the hole for the spark plug clamp on the magneto wire was a little loose, so I trimmed a bit off the end of the wire and made a new hole. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jul 25, 2013 |
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Jul 25, 2013 22:52
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thylacine posted:Fine, he will probably want one. I usually ride until it's in the upper 20's deg F, and it sucks not having a windshield at those temps. Meh, I did 12 miles every day and it got to about 8f with the coastal breeze. It's not that bad if you have decent gear. Anecdotal but DRZ's don't like 8f weather!
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Jul 25, 2013 22:54
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Meh, I did 12 miles every day and it got to about 8f with the coastal breeze. It's not that bad if you have decent gear. Anecdotal but DRZ's don't like 8f weather! I rode 3 successive naked bikes to work all-year-round, with mostly highway speeds. The temperatures at one point last year got to 3 degrees celsius, along with the wind/fog/etc. The only thing that bugged me was wind rushing in past my collar; I bought a $10 scarf. If you have riding gear with some sort of thermal inset thingy or you just wear multiple layers of clothing underneath you don't feel it. I was much more worried about no tyre grip and vvisor fogging and numb hands. Take a wood pill and harden up, son!
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Jul 25, 2013 23:19
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If you have a full-face on, you're wearing a windshield. I ride in the winter and I've done it with windshields and without; keeping warm is better executed with appropriate layers, heated grips/gear, and stopping the drafts by wearing a scarf or neck sock or whatever than by putting a windshield on to chop up all the cold wind before it still ends up hitting you.
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Jul 25, 2013 23:22
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That's cool ya'll are so tough that a windshield is dumb, but the dude said he wanted a windshield.
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Jul 26, 2013 00:56
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kid sinister posted:My goal is to get it to start on the first pull and turn off when I tell it to. I've had it mostly apart already. I took off the shaft and had the carb, carb bracket and the fuel tank off. I got stopped at the torx bolt holding the... PTO (I guess?) onto the crankshaft. I couldn't figure out how to get it loose without the crankshaft turning. My guess is that the fuel mixture is too rich. Not sure how you lean out a string trimmer, though.
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Jul 26, 2013 00:57
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Safety Dance posted:My guess is that the fuel mixture is too rich. Not sure how you lean out a string trimmer, though. Clean/Replace whatever passes for an air filter.
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Jul 26, 2013 01:43
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Safety Dance posted:My guess is that the fuel mixture is too rich. Not sure how you lean out a string trimmer, though. IIRC it sounds the other way, actually. Needing a lot of choke to start/run sounds like a lean condition, and dieseling after cutoff can come from running waaaay too hot, which again often comes from lean conditions. At least on 4Ts, not sure about two strokes RE: windshield chat, I thought riding a naked was no big thing and that windshields were dumb, right up until I got a bike with a good fairing and windshield
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Jul 26, 2013 01:47
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Snowdens Secret posted:IIRC it sounds the other way, actually. Needing a lot of choke to start/run sounds like a lean condition, and dieseling after cutoff can come from running waaaay too hot, which again often comes from lean conditions. At least on 4Ts, not sure about two strokes Hmmm okay, yeah, you're right. I couldn't remember which way dieseling indicated. Clean yo carb friend.
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Jul 26, 2013 03:30
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clutchpuck posted:This is fallacy. What's fallacy? Windchill?
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Jul 26, 2013 04:12
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clutchpuck posted:This is fallacy. Caught in a landslide.
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Jul 26, 2013 05:39
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slidebite posted:What's fallacy? Windchill? Yeah I don't know what they're talking about unless they're referring to 3" flyscreens and what not. I have a 17" quick release shield for the cold months and for extended highway time. I hate the way it looks but it is absolutely an improvement to the windchill and the fatigue factors of high speed winds blasting you in the chest for hours on end.
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Jul 26, 2013 13:54
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slidebite posted:What's fallacy? Windchill?
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Jul 26, 2013 17:18
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drat multi-national windshield corporations keeping small companies with the innovations down so they can keep their status quo.
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Jul 26, 2013 17:46
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Big Windshield keeping the winds of change from sweeping over the population
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Jul 26, 2013 18:26
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MotoMind posted:Caught in a landslide. No escape from reality.
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Jul 26, 2013 18:46
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echomadman posted:uh huh, so why do you increase preload when you're taking a pillion? Well, that's because of the wind between you and your pillion acts as an airfoil, decreasing your apparent weight when yeah that's not really working is it? Let's just get the terminology straight so we're on the same page. When you increase preload, you compress the spring further, correct? Putting a load on the spring before it's loaded by your weight? Or is setting the preload actually setting the minimum weight before the suspension starts to move? Either way, I've probably got it all wrong. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 21:19
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Braincloud posted:No escape from reality. Open your eyes, look up to the skies and see... Snowdens Secret posted:IIRC it sounds the other way, actually. Needing a lot of choke to start/run sounds like a lean condition, and dieseling after cutoff can come from running waaaay too hot, which again often comes from lean conditions. At least on 4Ts, not sure about two strokes It's the same on two strokes.
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Jul 26, 2013 22:54
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Snowdens Secret posted:IIRC it sounds the other way, actually. Needing a lot of choke to start/run sounds like a lean condition, and dieseling after cutoff can come from running waaaay too hot, which again often comes from lean conditions. At least on 4Ts, not sure about two strokes Could my fuel mix be causing that? I used new gas and the correct 40:1 ratio, but the oil mix I used was something old my neighbor had laying around.
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Jul 26, 2013 22:58
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ThatCguy posted:From some quickie forum-research, the stock exhaust on that bike is nearly 40 lbs, and from seeing one in person, sounds like absolute rear end. Your average 2 bros or Leo Vince CF slipon can is about 10 lbs. We're talking slip-ons, which probably weigh 5lbs. The stock muffler probably weighs 15. 10lbs of weight savings isn't that big a deal. edit: Looks like full systems only bring that up to 20lbs or so saved.
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Jul 26, 2013 23:10
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I disagree. 10 lbs, especially if it's mounted high, is considerable. There was definitely a noticeable difference with side to side transitions when my wife put a Shorai battery on her Beemer, and that was about a 6lb difference.
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Jul 26, 2013 23:18
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Can't say I noticed too much, street-wise, when my Ninjette's exhaust was different than stock. Personal feel I guess v v
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Jul 27, 2013 02:54
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KozmoNaut posted:Well, that's because of the wind between you and your pillion acts as an airfoil, decreasing your apparent weight when yeah that's not really working is it? As you compress a spring, the amount of force with which it presses back increases. Let's say I've got a 500 lbs/in rear spring. If I take a 500lb weight and press it on the spring, it compresses 1 inch. If I use mechanical means to pre-load that spring an inch and put 500 lbs on it, it doesn't compress any. Let's assume an ideal motorcycle where the rear suspension is at full droop when nobody is on the back, and the spring is directly under the rider. Let's say that, when I get on this ideal motorcycle, the seat height drops two inches. If I disassemble this bike and add a two-inch spacer to the spring, when I get on the bike, it will deflect 0 inches. That way, I can carry lots of weight, and the suspension will still be in the middle of its mechanical range. The spring isn't any stiffer, but the bike rides higher for the same weight on the back.
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Jul 27, 2013 03:20
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kid sinister posted:Could my fuel mix be causing that? I used new gas and the correct 40:1 ratio, but the oil mix I used was something old my neighbor had laying around. My initial reaction is no. I think the oil doesn't burn, so as long as you have the correct ratio, it should be the same amount of fuel and air mixing. Did the string trimmer sit for a long time (somewhere between a few weeks and a year)? e: whoops, poo poo, I meant to edit this into my last response.
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Jul 27, 2013 03:22
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Safety Dance posted:My initial reaction is no. I think the oil doesn't burn, so as long as you have the correct ratio, it should be the same amount of fuel and air mixing. Did the string trimmer sit for a long time (somewhere between a few weeks and a year)? Oil ratios will have an effect on the mixture since it has volume and displaces that much fuel through the carburetor. If the oil was opened and had moisture in it that could be helping screw things up, otherwise it's fine. kid sinister posted:Anyway, my string trimmer will only start on full choke, will die if you give it too much gas too fast once it is started and switched back to open choke, and once you have it running the kill switch is merely a suggestion. It likes to flutter until it finally decides to stop. It's record is 45 seconds after I switched it off. That string trimmer probably has an air leak somewhere. Since you need the choke to start it I'd think that you aren't rich as it would probably start without choke. Does the engine sound really hollow and like it is struggling to breath? Does it run better if you leave the choke on? Spray some carb cleaner in small spurts at various junctions between the carb and the cylinder and see if it takes off or bogs. If so, time to tear it apart and seal it back up. Also what does your spark plug look like? If it's dieseling I'd guess it looks a little melty and probably bone white.
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Jul 27, 2013 06:13
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Is there any point in buying premium gas? If you are just going to burn it off? I just googled and the answers are mixed.
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Jul 27, 2013 06:35
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dogpower posted:Is there any point in buying premium gas? If you are just going to burn it off? Yes. Premium gas contains more octane, which is a carbon chain that encourages the fuel to burn more slowly. Engine designers think about things like the flame front and precisely how the fuel is burning in the cylinder when your engine is running. Some engines are therefore designed to require a slower burn than others -- typically high performance engines with high compression ratios or forced induction. If your car was not designed to require premium gas, however, it is a waste of money that can, in certain circumstances, negatively impact your fuel mileage. Running premium in a car that doesn't require it won't have any negative impact on engine life, but not running premium when you're supposed to can lead to things like knocking -- a condition where your fuel explodes before the spark plug fires. That puts a lot of strain on your connecting rods and other internal bits, and can lead to bad things happening in expensive places. Many cars have sensors built into the engine that detect the knocking (they're really just very specifically tuned microphones), and they'll retard your timing and otherwise detune your engine while illuminating the check engine light so you can get it fixed. I heard knocking on my motorcycle once. It went away when I switched to premium fuel. Bikes are so efficient that the extra $.50 per hundred miles really doesn't bother me. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Jul 27, 2013 |
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Jul 27, 2013 06:44
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I know we had that brilliant Safety First thread that sort of turned into a general helmet painting thread, but I figured I'd ask here: Plastidip and helmets? Compatible? Mine is starting to look pretty sorry for itself after 2 years of weather and wear. I'm thinking plastidip might be a good idea to keep it going for another couple.
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Jul 27, 2013 12:46
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Mild emergency here: I was going to adjust my chain on the SV because I heard some clacking and watched a buddy of mine ride it down the street and I could see the chain whipping up and down. I realized that I needed a new chain recently, but haven't replaced it yet. I noticed something funny with my rear brake. There's a portion on the rotor that's been digging/grinding into the support that holds up the caliper.  Last night on the way home it felt funny but I attributed that to the chain. I turned the wheel and it's definitely not a good sound.Also, I noticed that my castle nut goes pretty far down the bolt. No idea if it's bad though. I was planning on leaving to ride to San Antonio this morning from Houston, but I don't think I can do it on the bike now that I can see this new issue.    
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Jul 27, 2013 13:24
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Yeah poo poo is hosed. You are probably missing a wheel spacer on the brake side which is causing all three problems.
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Jul 27, 2013 13:39
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Oh goddamnit. I found that loving spacer. Still stuck in the motherfucking track wheel I used about six weeks ago. :facepalm: Why didn't I connect the dots when I was putting it back together? Beats me. So I guess I need to get a new rotor / bracket for the rear then. Rotor will be relatively easy and I should be able to find the bracket thing from someone parting out a bike somewhere. ugh.
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Jul 27, 2013 13:46
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MotoMind posted:Yeah poo poo is hosed. You are probably missing a wheel spacer on the brake side which is causing all three problems. Yesh, it's missing a spacer and at least the caliber bracket should be replaced before you ride it again. Your pads looks worn out too. Also check the caliper itself for damage, including pad slide-pins, pad shims and the brake line. You should probably check your wheel bearings and bearing seals too. XYLOPAGUS posted:So I guess I need to get a new rotor / bracket for the rear then. Rotor will be relatively easy and I should be able to find the bracket thing from someone parting out a bike somewhere. I don't think there's any damage to the rotor.
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Jul 27, 2013 13:52
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Sir Cornelius posted:Yesh, it's missing a spacer and at least the caliber bracket should be replaced before you ride it again. Your pads looks worn out too. Also check the caliper itself for damage, including pad slide-pins, pad shims and the brake line. You should probably check your wheel bearings and bearing seals too. The rotor has some bad scarring on it. It's somewhat hard to see from the pictures, but it is definitely on the list.
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Jul 27, 2013 14:12
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XYLOPAGUS posted:The rotor has some bad scarring on it. It's somewhat hard to see from the pictures, but it is definitely on the list. I see that, but I'm pretty sure it's still use-able. You might want to change the rotor bolts though.
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Jul 27, 2013 14:58
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Safety Dance posted:Did the string trimmer sit for a long time (somewhere between a few weeks and a year)? Terminus Est posted:That string trimmer probably has an air leak somewhere. Since you need the choke to start it I'd think that you aren't rich as it would probably start without choke. Does the engine sound really hollow and like it is struggling to breath? Does it run better if you leave the choke on? Spray some carb cleaner in small spurts at various junctions between the carb and the cylinder and see if it takes off or bogs. If so, time to tear it apart and seal it back up. Also what does your spark plug look like? If it's dieseling I'd guess it looks a little melty and probably bone white. Nah, it only starts on choke. If I leave the choke on, then I can't even give it any fuel or it bogs and dies. I'm not sure how to describe the sound. And this is starting to sound like replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my wife's car: spray a little starting fluid along the gaskets and once the engine revs up, you found the leak. I haven't looked at the spark plug since the dieseling. When I checked before that, the tip was a little black but looked fine and it sparked like it was supposed to.
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Jul 27, 2013 17:22
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Linedance posted:I know we had that brilliant Safety First thread that sort of turned into a general helmet painting thread, but I figured I'd ask here: You can Plastidip a helmet without risking solvents weakening it. However, if your helmet looks that bad after only 2 years of use, the Plastidip will probably be scratched to hell in a couple of weeks. Also, if it's looking that bad from the outside, how is the padding holding up? Maybe it's just time for a new brain bucket.
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Jul 27, 2013 17:52
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Safety Dance posted:Yes. Premium gas contains more octane, which is a carbon chain that encourages the fuel to burn more slowly. Engine designers think about things like the flame front and precisely how the fuel is burning in the cylinder when your engine is running. Some engines are therefore designed to require a slower burn than others -- typically high performance engines with high compression ratios or forced induction. It's really more about pre-ignition resistance than flame front speed. Changes in flame front speed between 87 and 93 octane fuel are not that significant, and high octane racing fuels can have even faster flame front speeds than 87. Zool fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jul 27, 2013 |
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Jul 27, 2013 18:30
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Sir Cornelius posted:You can Plastidip a helmet without risking solvents weakening it. However, if your helmet looks that bad after only 2 years of use, the Plastidip will probably be scratched to hell in a couple of weeks. Also, if it's looking that bad from the outside, how is the padding holding up? Maybe it's just time for a new brain bucket. It's an AGV gp-tech, so I don't think it's really built for long term durability. It's all sorts of day-glo which has faded badly in the elements, and there's various chips in the laqueur from general use and abuse. Padding is still good internally, but the base is a bit scruffy. I've seen another and it was worn out exactly the same as mine is. It probably is time, I think I got spoiled by how well my old shoei held up. The agv fits me perfectly though, the shoei gave me a nasty pressure point on my forehead.
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Jul 27, 2013 22:34
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I get a new helmet every year. I notice that, as the year goes on, that the helmet loosens quite a bit as the foam compresses from me wearing it. The foam is what saves your life in a crash, so replacement is certainly warranted. Food for thought.
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Jul 28, 2013 00:24
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Geirskogul posted:I get a new helmet every year. I notice that, as the year goes on, that the helmet loosens quite a bit as the foam compresses from me wearing it. The foam is what saves your life in a crash, so replacement is certainly warranted. It's the lining that's compressing, not the foam.
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Jul 28, 2013 00:41
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