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I think I pay around $250 a year for my insurance. I have really high limits on uninsured/underinsured so I'm sure that brings it up a bit. I also live in San Diego city proper which is apparently bike theft heaven which also probably adds a few bucks on there.
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Aug 17, 2013 00:51
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This ain't gonna mean much, pricewise, since I live in Europe, but it's still a hosed up insurance related thing. When I got my SV, I called around and got quotes from a whole slew of insurance companies (7 IIRC). So I had called 3 or 4 already, when I call the company I'll call If. Since the actual name of the company is, in fact, If that seems about right. My best quote for comprehensive before this was about 6700 kronor (985 USD)/year. We are a bit into the call. Guy: Yeah, thatd be 21000 kronor (about 3000 USD) a year for third party only. Me: So that's three times what LF (other company) wants for comprehensive. Guy: Yeah, I guess. *sighs* Me: Well, let me think about it, bye. *click* Since If is always expensive when I check, I wasnt very surprised. Next call was to a company Ive never called before. Fast forward to the big reveal. Girl: 7200 kronor... (1050 USD) Me: Right, its not the cheapest Ive heard today, but... Girl: ...per month. *nervous laughter* Me: *silent for maybe ten seconds* Girl: Hello? Me: Excuse me, can you repeat that? Girl: 7200 kronor per month. Me: You realise this is more per month than what LF quoted me for a full year? Are you sure this is correct? Girl: Yes. It says so on the screen right here. 86400 kronor (12700 USD) per year. Me: Yeah, good luck with that. *click* After I called around to the last companies on my list, I thought I'd just have to call back and triple check the price I got. After getting another guy on the phone and explaining my last call he said; Guy: Well, that cant be right. Let me check. *typing on computer* *nervous laughter* The price you got earlier was correct. Me: How many bikes does your company actually insure? I mean, ten bikes and youve made your profit that year. Guy: I guess its a little high, isnt it? *laughing* Me: Yeah, I think I'll pass. *click* A couple of days later, I got a letter from silly expensive company, where they sent me the offer in writing and asking me to get back to them to ensure I got the great price they offered. Thanks, SalusAnsvar!
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Aug 17, 2013 06:00
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clutchpuck posted:What is compulsory third party insurance and how is it different than liability? It's insurance that covers gently caress all but you need it to register a vehicle in NSW  .http://www.greenslips.com.au/ posted:Your greenslip covers injury to people when your vehicle is involved in an accident.
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Aug 17, 2013 08:03
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Ephphatha posted:It's insurance that covers gently caress all but you need it to register a vehicle in NSW Ontario has a similar racket. Bike insurance there is also stupid expensive. I think it's to cover all the whiplash claims from when bystander's heads whip around as they watch a squid flying through the air at 160kph after he's hit something.
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Aug 17, 2013 10:05
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Nidhg00670000 posted:This ain't gonna mean much, pricewise, since I live in Europe, but it's still a hosed up insurance related thing. When I got my SV, I called around and got quotes from a whole slew of insurance companies (7 IIRC). So I had called 3 or 4 already, when I call the company I'll call If. Since the actual name of the company is, in fact, If that seems about right. My best quote for comprehensive before this was about 6700 kronor (985 USD)/year. We are a bit into the call. Does the Frozen North not have comparison websites? Throwing details into comparethemarket.com is always hilarious for the outliers - my last quote ran from £300 out to £2500, with loads just refusing to quote for whatever reason.
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Aug 17, 2013 10:18
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If is retardedly expensive, their offer for my Street Triple was 3700€ per year and the cheapest I got ended up being about a thousand euros. Oh and for my car it would have been 2600€/year, what the hell? All the other companies were less than 1000€.
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Aug 17, 2013 10:42
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Does the Frozen North not have comparison websites? Throwing details into comparethemarket.com is always hilarious for the outliers - my last quote ran from £300 out to £2500, with loads just refusing to quote for whatever reason. Yes and no. We got some laws in 1998 about internet privacy that makes such websites give a rough estimate at best. There's one or two companies that you can give your info online and they'll do the legwork and call you up with their best quote, but I trust those guys about as far as I can throw them.
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Aug 17, 2013 13:48
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~$67.50/month on the XT660X, fully comprehensive. ~$31.30 on the B6, liability only. 27yo, a couple of speeding tickets and a conditional loss of license+new driving test, no accidents. The 86400 kronor example is loving awesome.
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Aug 17, 2013 14:05
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$80.38/yr for a 1999 SV650 with liability and uninsured coverage through State Farm. 27, clean record, also have two cars and my house insured through them which helps.
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Aug 17, 2013 15:03
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I'm 29, married, with car and renters insurance from state farm, no tickets or accidents. I have a high level of liability and uninsured driver coverage on my 96 cbr600 for 12 dollars per month with them.
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Aug 17, 2013 16:47
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slidebite posted:Anyhow, even when I get more of the poo poo off and pull the mat back, I can already tell it's going to be too tight to get in there with my torque wrench and 5mm hex socket. Really, there is not much room other than a hex key. Z3n posted:Just grind down an allen and hit it that way. I got these for a similar tight spot on the Harley. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O4AII/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Well made and you don't need to grind down existing Allens. Disclaimer: The ball ends are not intended to be used for the initial breaking loose or final tightening of a bolt. Getting an actual torque read is going to be an issue though. I don't know of any angled hex key sockets or anything. You might be able to glue one on to a universal screwdriver adapter or something, but I think there's also going to be some calculation required to see what the 90 degree bend of a hex key does to the torque reading. I'm not 100% on that though. When I am disassembling something I know is going to be a pain in the rear end to get a good torque reading on I always make a witness mark on the bolt itself. A little dot at 12 o'clock or wherever is accessible, and that tells me where it was before I removed it. I be sure to snug it, and then tighten it back so the mark is sitting at 12 o'clock again. It's not perfect, but it's a preferred to the old 'Good-N-Tight' torque spec. In your case, I'd probably just give it an 1/8th to a 1/4 turn. Torque specs are typically ranged, and it's doubtful that it's at the very highest of the torque spec. From the sounds of it, the odds of that curing your leak are slim to none anyway, but certainly worth a try since you're already there.
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Aug 17, 2013 17:56
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I'd love to know what I'm doing wrong with insurance. I always read about people paying $20 a month or whatever, but I recently shopped around to insure my new Griso SE and the absolute best I could do was $80 a month with Geico, and that's full coverage, $1000 deductible, and everything else set to lowest values. I've never had an accident or ticket in my life, either in a car or on the bike I've ridden for some 8 years, and I did the MSF. 30 years old and unmarried, great credit rating, all that. Maybe San Antonio is a hotbed for motorcycle theft?
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Aug 17, 2013 18:17
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LifeSizePotato posted:I'd love to know what I'm doing wrong with insurance. I always read about people paying $20 a month or whatever, but I recently shopped around to insure my new Griso SE and the absolute best I could do was $80 a month with Geico, and that's full coverage, $1000 deductible, and everything else set to lowest values. I've never had an accident or ticket in my life, either in a car or on the bike I've ridden for some 8 years, and I did the MSF. 30 years old and unmarried, great credit rating, all that. Maybe San Antonio is a hotbed for motorcycle theft? A lot of these guys don't have comprehensive and collision, just liability and uninsured. Also the Griso is an expensive bike, not a 10 year old SV650. Plus, yes, being in San Antonio probably does raise your rates. I'm paying about $750 a year for the 2012 Speed Triple and the '04 Futura, comprehensive and everything on both, 100/300k and $200 deductible. Mid 30's, Connecticut suburbs. Collision coverage is about $450 of that.
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Aug 17, 2013 18:32
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$27/mo for liability+comp+uninsured on the old rear end honda with 100/300 limits in Los Angeles. Collision is where it gets expensive.
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Aug 17, 2013 19:02
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(Australian) 3rd Party Property, Theft & Fire - $310/year with YouI, 23y/o, 1.5 years riding time. I think full comprehensive was about $900/year. Both give me $500 gear cover, can be bumped up to $5000 gear cover for an extra $200. Payout is calculated by market rate whenever it gets stolen/burnt. I think my excess is about $500. I think the next closest was about $1500/year for comprehensive, or about $150/year for just 3rd Party Property. e: 1997 ZZR-600
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Aug 17, 2013 19:10
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OK guys, I pulled off my front brake to look at the bake pads and disc. I also took some photos of my tires. Do I look like I need new tires? What about my brake pad or disc, anything look funky there? Tires:   Brakes:     Bonus picture of my first semi-big ride  
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Aug 18, 2013 17:03
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Pads look okay, rotors are a bit meh, but if you're going to do rotors you may as well do pads. With the tires the important thing is the date stamp. It will be a stamp with 4 numbers, which correlate to the week and year they were made. So, 4205 would be the 42nd week of 2005 etc. If they're super old you may want to replace those as well.
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Aug 18, 2013 17:44
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Liability is cheap. 100/300 comes out to like $150 a year for me... the other $650 a year is collision/comprehensive on my GSX-R600 with $1000 deductible on each. Basically the insurance companies assume you're either going to crash it or get run over so it's expensive. Still nowhere near the loving $1750 Progressive wanted. Holy butts.
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Aug 18, 2013 17:45
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Just did my first semi-long ride with luggage; one largish backpack on my back and one cargo netted behind me on the tail. I drive a 1996 bandit and, mother of god, when the wind gets up I get swatted around the road. Any suggestions for luggage boxes or other solutions so that my bike doesn't effectively become a kite?
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Aug 18, 2013 19:10
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Shelvocke posted:Just did my first semi-long ride with luggage; one largish backpack on my back and one cargo netted behind me on the tail. I drive a 1996 bandit and, mother of god, when the wind gets up I get swatted around the road. I've got a Givi top box for my Multi, I don't even notice it's there most of the time, even when it's windy. A bit spendy, but worth it.
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Aug 18, 2013 19:15
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Shelvocke posted:Just did my first semi-long ride with luggage; one largish backpack on my back and one cargo netted behind me on the tail. I drive a 1996 bandit and, mother of god, when the wind gets up I get swatted around the road. I'd try relaxing on the bars and just letting the wind sort of move you around. Keep looking forward where you want to go, relax, and you'll naturally correct into the wind. It's probably not actually the luggage, it's probably you stressing about the luggage catching the wind, tensing up, and causing the bike to react poorly to the wind.
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Aug 18, 2013 19:21
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Thanks, I'll have a look at that.Z3n posted:I'd try relaxing on the bars and just letting the wind sort of move you around. Keep looking forward where you want to go, relax, and you'll naturally correct into the wind. It's probably not actually the luggage, it's probably you stressing about the luggage catching the wind, tensing up, and causing the bike to react poorly to the wind. That's actually pretty likely, didn't help that there was lots of sleepy Sunday drivers merging without looking and so on.
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Aug 18, 2013 20:08
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Shelvocke posted:Thanks, I'll have a look at that. A big rucksack really increases the amount you feel the wind because they both move you around more and the weight resting on your shoulders can change your grip on the bars. There are proper motorcyle rucksacks (that are built a bit like old-fashioned daypacks, taking a lot of weight on the waist) that relieve this, but rucksacks are generally a bad idea in a crash anyway. Received wisdom is that tankbags are your best bet - a well-designed one will give you the same capacity as a big rucksack, with the same advantages (quick and easy to get off the bike and carry around, easy to leave at home when you don't need them), without the disadvantages (they raise the CoG a little but generally have the least effect on handling of all luggage types) and a few of their own advantages (pockets in the top for maps or even iPads now). Failing that, a pair of cheap throwover soft panniers can carry a lot of stuff (as long as you don't melt them on the exhaust).
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Aug 18, 2013 20:45
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Alright goons I need some advice on a no-start problem I'm having with a '85 KLR250. I've cleaned carbs, checked for spark, and cleaned out the air filter. Pretty sure it's compression problems since after adjusting valves I only get 60 PSI dry. So today, I try adding a teaspoon of rotella T6 into the spark plug hole, cranking it a few times to spread the oil, then measuring the compression. This came out to 120 PSI wet, which is still low I think but according to this site it's in the spec of 60-114. I guess this would imply that my rings are worn? 1. So keeping in mind that I've never worked on the internals of engines outside of valve checks, is a worn ring fixable using a standard socket set and determination? Or what kind of time frame and special tools is expected in tearing down the top end of a thumper? Do I just need to replace the rings or do I need an entire liner+piston+ring set? Bonus points if you point out to me what I need on this fiche so I can order them. 2. Later in the day, I went back to check the compression again. The compression started building up again, but after a few more kicks the gauge dropped to zero. Any more kicks seems to raise the reading for a brief second, but quickly settles down to zero again. I checked to make sure all the gauge fittings were on securely. Have I hosed the bike somehow in doing this second test or is it probably the gauge?
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Aug 19, 2013 00:27
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Doesn't it have an automatic decompression mechanism that engages when you kick it over? That could throw off your readings.
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Aug 19, 2013 00:47
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It does have the KACR, but I'm not sure why it would the gauge would hold pressure one moment then completely flatline the next? Either way, the service manual doesn't mention anything about disabling the KACR while doing compression test, just says go WOT and kick.
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Aug 19, 2013 01:23
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So I just called the Kawasaki dealer asking about valve clearance shims for my ZRX. The guy said they cost $18 each. Which would mean $180 to get my valve clearances right as there are ten out of spec. Does this sound remotely normal? That price seems insane even with the usual NZ availability price hike. Are these things standardised sizes so I could get them somewhere else? The markings on the ones in the bike lead me to believe they're aftermarket.
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Aug 19, 2013 01:34
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http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/hotcams/shimkits_948.htm You want the refill packages, the kits are expensive - but not $18/piece expensive (assuming shipping to NZ doesn't cost hundreds of dollars.
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Aug 19, 2013 01:52
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Amazon also has good deals on shims but again, shipping may kill you. I got 4 packs of 5 shims for $7 each.
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Aug 19, 2013 03:13
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My required shim range is broad enough that I would need to get two refill kits, which puts me at the same price as this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Cams-Valve-Shim-Kit-Kawasaki-ZRX-1200-ZRX1200-1999-05-/130804403396 When it says it comes with 3 shims, I take it that means 3 shims of every size, with .05 increments for each size?
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Aug 19, 2013 03:22
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I know I have harped on this before but have you tried calling other dealers and seeing if they'll exchange your shims for different sizes? You might luck out (or they'll just sell you them cheap). You're realistically never going to be doing shims on this bike again unless you really plan on riding it forever. You can use the shim kit on any other bike that has the same diameter shims really so it's not a terrible investment but if you can get the shims from a small time shop for like 3 or 4 bucks each (or free on trade) I'd go that route.
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Aug 19, 2013 03:43
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Slavvy posted:My required shim range is broad enough that I would need to get two refill kits, which puts me at the same price as this: Yep. I bought that kit for my 2010 Ninja 250. I was able to get it back into spec (4 valves out of whack) and it's relatively inexpensive, especially if you're planning on doing more than one valve check.
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Aug 19, 2013 04:00
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JP Money posted:I know I have harped on this before but have you tried calling other dealers and seeing if they'll exchange your shims for different sizes? You might luck out (or they'll just sell you them cheap). You're realistically never going to be doing shims on this bike again unless you really plan on riding it forever. You can use the shim kit on any other bike that has the same diameter shims really so it's not a terrible investment but if you can get the shims from a small time shop for like 3 or 4 bucks each (or free on trade) I'd go that route. Small-time bike shops basically don't exist here, you're stuck with a dealer or a place like cycletreads. CT sell the same shim kit for $200 so I think it's across the board.
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Aug 19, 2013 04:04
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Slavvy posted:So I just called the Kawasaki dealer asking about valve clearance shims for my ZRX. The guy said they cost $18 each. Which would mean $180 to get my valve clearances right as there are ten out of spec. Does this sound remotely normal? That price seems insane even with the usual NZ availability price hike. Are these things standardised sizes so I could get them somewhere else? The markings on the ones in the bike lead me to believe they're aftermarket. You usually only need a "few" shims. As you can shuffle what's there, to make up the clerances. It takes time and math though. I will bet that ZRXOA has a kit they ship around.
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Aug 19, 2013 05:09
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An Australian company can do them at $4 each plus the small amount of shipping required to get them to NZ in 7 days. Sold.
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Aug 19, 2013 05:40
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When I was insuring my ER6 I first called LF, since I have my home insurance with them and figured I could get some co-insurance rebate. They quoted me 16k SEK per year, after rebates. Went with Svedea instead, where I'm paying about 5k per year for comprehensive including roadside assistance. It seems there are some insurance companies here that simply don't want to insure motorcycles, but instead of denying it right out they quote you ridiculous prices knowing you'll never take it anyway.
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Aug 19, 2013 11:57
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Yeah, LF was cheapest on the SV since they are the company that handles Suzukis own insurance. And as I (and the bike) gets older it's dropping. I payed 5700 kr last year for comprehensive on a -03 SV650S. This year I pay 3300 kr...
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Aug 19, 2013 16:41
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Any reason I shouldn't pick these up? I don't currently need a new set of tires, but wouldn't mind getting a set of highly regarded ones at a good price to have on hand when its comes time to replace the current ones! http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/mpo/4008173918.html
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Aug 19, 2013 20:28
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If you have a Ninja 500 that's probably a pretty good deal. A spare set of wheels can't hurt.
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Aug 19, 2013 20:38
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So another dumb question I have. Engine braking: is it bad to down shift without adding throttle? Someone told me its fine to do, that he basically just pulls the clutch, down shifts and eases the clutch out, then repeats for the bottom gears. Is this common practice.
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Aug 19, 2013 21:18
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