|
Reo posted:Jimmy Lee from Double Dragon Neon (will have Billy & Marian) How did you do the dragon design on the back? I suddenly really want to do this cosplay, as it looks fairly easy (I am bad at this stuff), but that looks like the toughest part.
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 19:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 22:37 |
|
|
A friend of mine is looking for latex "snout" pieces for a Halloween costume (dude is serious when it comes to his Halloween). Can anyone point me to a good site where I might find such things? I'm imagining something like a Wolf-man/werewolf costume might be what he's aiming for.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2013 20:24
|
|
|
Morpheus posted:How did you do the dragon design on the back? I suddenly really want to do this cosplay, as it looks fairly easy (I am bad at this stuff), but that looks like the toughest part. Dunno what Reo did but you can get printable heat transfer sheets via Amazon and eBay and fabric stores. Print the design onto the sheet, cut it out, peel off the backing, iron it on and you're good to go.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 13:22
|
|
|
four lean hounds posted:A friend of mine is looking for latex "snout" pieces for a Halloween costume (dude is serious when it comes to his Halloween). Can anyone point me to a good site where I might find such things? I'm imagining something like a Wolf-man/werewolf costume might be what he's aiming for. Hrmmph, I replied to this last night but I must have forgotten to hit "post" So Northfur does a range of latex prosthetics http://www.northfur.ca/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=83 I'm REALLY not a fan of most of the larger pieces, they're somewhere between cartoony and just plain odd looking and it doesn't work at all for me. However, some of the smaller pieces in the "monsters and fantasy" section look real nice, especially when paired with a good set of brows from the "brows and other parts" section. The fantasy beast might work well as a wolf man CFX (we were talking about their super expensive over-the-head silicone pieces earlier) also does a range of smaller foam latex prosthetics here http://www.compositeeffects.com/page_search.php?Quick=appliance again their "beast" would probably be the one to go for Foam latex/hot foam latex is not going to last forever, both from a wear and tear point of view from application and removal, and in terms of absolute shelf life. Latex is an organic material and foam latex has a very high surface area because it's full of bubbles, so it will eventually perish in air and become unusable. It'd be more than fine for a halloween, but it's not something he'd be able to use every year for decades on end. In the industry, they'd use a new casting for every application, but when going for a hobby grade finish you could probably get ten or so uses out of a single piece, barring it perishing before then. Slush cast latex lasts much longer since it doesn't have the high surface area, I have ten year old masks that are still OK (store them out of the sun and in a stable atmosphere) but doesn't have the same flexibility, it won't move with the wearers face like foam latex. Any appliance will need a skilled assistant to apply it, this can take anything from a few minutes to over an hour, depending on the level of finish you're going for, how much makeup is applied and whether any other finishing like fake hair is involved Hope that all helps
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 15:21
|
|
|
Hey guys I need some help. I'm making my best friend a batgirl outfit and I'm really stumped with the cowl. I'm trying not to go the latex root but if anyone knows any simple ways I'm all ears.
|
|
#
?
Sep 10, 2013 22:41
|
|
|
NorseDanceParty posted:Hey guys I need some help. I'm making my best friend a batgirl outfit and I'm really stumped with the cowl. I'm trying not to go the latex root but if anyone knows any simple ways I'm all ears. Thin sheets of black EVA foam could work - you'd need a heat gun to shape them and some hot glue, but it's doable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 00:42
|
|
|
NorseDanceParty posted:Hey guys I need some help. I'm making my best friend a batgirl outfit and I'm really stumped with the cowl. I'm trying not to go the latex root but if anyone knows any simple ways I'm all ears. Fabric or solid? Which variant of Batgirl?
|
|
#
?
Sep 11, 2013 10:35
|
|
|
To add to the contact convo I usually get mine from a site called Pinky Paradise. I have had great success they are comfy and the colors are vibrant enough for dark eyes. They also come in prescription strength. Contacts run about 20-35 or so per pair though they do buy one get one sales and sometimes free shipping from time to time. I of course got checked out by my optometrist first for my perscription and all that but they are seriously some of the most comfortable colored contacts I have ever had. Though they do require changing a bit more often or at least there site says they also recommend not reusing cases once the contacts are done so is the case. This is just my input take it for what you will.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 05:32
|
|
|
Xaerael posted:Fabric or solid? Which variant of Batgirl? Yeah, there's at least several dozen different Batgirl costumes from the last 50 years. Still, could be worse: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 11:06
|
|
|
This is the batgirl we're going for. So far all I have is a duct tape base so that it fits her head. I don't wanna go a fabric root since I made a cat woman cowl out of fabric and it just looked a little odd.  Snowglobe of Doom posted:Yeah, there's at least several dozen different Batgirl costumes from the last 50 years. Also this comic is the best thing ever. I love it since I'm making my friend be the batgirl to my supergirl.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2013 23:42
|
|
|
NorseDanceParty posted:Batgirl talk I'm not sure how to get around a latex cowl with that one. If you don't want to do it yourself I know both the Bat Texan and Fourth Wall Designs have done either that exact cowl or one similar. They both do awesome work I highly recommend them for stuff like that. I'll be interested to see if anyone can suggest a way around it though.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2013 05:19
|
|
|
Killer_Frost posted:I'm not sure how to get around a latex cowl with that one. If you don't want to do it yourself I know both the Bat Texan and Fourth Wall Designs have done either that exact cowl or one similar. They both do awesome work I highly recommend them for stuff like that. I SUPPOSE some kind of very thin foam, vacformed and clad in spandex might work, like you see on some of those cheap muscle-chests in costume shops. But the setup you'd need for that is probably more complex than just casting it, plus you'd have a nasty seam line down the side.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2013 09:33
|
|
|
Fatkraken posted:I SUPPOSE some kind of very thin foam, vacformed and clad in spandex might work, like you see on some of those cheap muscle-chests in costume shops. But the setup you'd need for that is probably more complex than just casting it, plus you'd have a nasty seam line down the side. You can't really vacuum form foam, it'll warp a bit but it doesn't shape itself like plastic does. I don't think any kind of heatshaped foam would take the kind of detail you'd want for a Batgirl cowl, anyway. I'd either sculpt it out of something lightweight that could just be worn or cast it in resin or latex.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2013 13:18
|
|
|
McPantserton posted:You can't really vacuum form foam, it'll warp a bit but it doesn't shape itself like plastic does. I don't think any kind of heatshaped foam would take the kind of detail you'd want for a Batgirl cowl, anyway. I'd either sculpt it out of something lightweight that could just be worn or cast it in resin or latex.  Vac formed Plastazote foam. E. How he did it: http://www.cosplayisland.co.uk/tutorials/vacforming Xaerael fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Sep 13, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2013 13:32
|
|
|
I learned something today! Apparently you can vacuum form foam, haha. I tried with EVA though and it did not work well at all.
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2013 13:55
|
|
|
Going to Scarefest here in lexington tomorrow. I'll be sure to snap pics of my corvo costume as well as any other costumes for the other thread.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2013 02:31
|
|
|
fallin1 posted:Going to Scarefest here in lexington tomorrow. I'll be sure to snap pics of my corvo costume as well as any other costumes for the other thread. What other thread? Is there a Halloween thread up? Where at?
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2013 16:03
|
|
|
Not yet! I've been waiting for that fucker. Pretty sure he means the PYF cosplay thread.
|
|
#
?
Sep 14, 2013 17:35
|
|
|
foxatee posted:Not yet! I've been waiting for that fucker. Pretty sure he means the PYF cosplay thread. Exactly. I forgot to get a picture in my corvo costume so I'll have to wait until the con uploads theirs from today to post it. E:Here's my Corvo costume. Forgot to put my hood up when I first got in. 
fallin1 fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Sep 15, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 00:14
|
|
|
So, I did a Majora's Mask cosplay and wanted to make another mask. The problem with mine is that the spikes break too easily. I made them out of the stuff you put fake flowers in and strengthened it with a base coat of primer then paint and then put a screw in them to hold it to the mask. This stopped the spikes from breaking off all the way but the tips were too fragile. What i'm getting at is that I am wondering what I should make the spikes out of that isn't so fragile. This is the mask w/ broken spikes:  Here is what I did to hold them in better:  Here is the whole costume: 
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 04:13
|
|
|
DetectiveSlowpoke posted:So, I did a Majora's Mask cosplay and wanted to make another mask. The problem with mine is that the spikes break too easily. I made them out of the stuff you put fake flowers in and strengthened it with a base coat of primer then paint and then put a screw in them to hold it to the mask. This stopped the spikes from breaking off all the way but the tips were too fragile. What i'm getting at is that I am wondering what I should make the spikes out of that isn't so fragile. That's incredibly well done. Nice job. You could maybe wrap them in foamies? Or maybe even cover them in fiberglass resin or bondo. I've never used floral foam so I'm just spitballing here. The bondo/resin might melt it for all I know. Good luck!
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 06:27
|
|
|
Killer_Frost posted:That's incredibly well done. Nice job. You could maybe wrap them in foamies? Or maybe even cover them in fiberglass resin or bondo. I've never used floral foam so I'm just spitballing here. The bondo/resin might melt it for all I know. Let's just say that floral foam is good for sculpting as it is really brittle (and cheap), but it is not fun to work with. as for the suggestions, i'll look into it tomorrow as most of my supplies are at my parents house and I can test stuff there. I'll check the forums before I do to see if there are any more suggestions. Also when i make mask V2, i'll be sure to detail the process.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 07:28
|
|
|
DetectiveSlowpoke posted:So, I did a Majora's Mask cosplay and wanted to make another mask. The problem with mine is that the spikes break too easily. I made them out of the stuff you put fake flowers in and strengthened it with a base coat of primer then paint and then put a screw in them to hold it to the mask. This stopped the spikes from breaking off all the way but the tips were too fragile. What i'm getting at is that I am wondering what I should make the spikes out of that isn't so fragile. I remember watching it get fixed in E-Land over in the Annex. Either you or a friend are an Enforcer, right?
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 08:44
|
|
|
Yeah, i'm an enforcer. I now know that the best stuff to fix it is rubber cement, but the rubber cement they had was almost out/ dried up.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 09:12
|
|
|
DetectiveSlowpoke posted:
You could try pink insulation foam, that carves and sands very well. It's still on the fragile side, but FAR stronger than flower arrangers foam. Or you could go the flexible route, carve them in EVA or Plastazote and use a flexible paint. Papier Mache is also an option, if you use a lot of layers of fine enough paper and prime/sand the gently caress out of them when done, you can get a surprisingly strong but light object with a really nice finish, and the cost is very low too. After that we start getting into resins and castable foams and costs increase by an order of magnitude...
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 09:50
|
|
|
DetectiveSlowpoke posted:Yeah, i'm an enforcer. I now know that the best stuff to fix it is rubber cement, but the rubber cement they had was almost out/ dried up. Well, I know what to donate next year. I was in the Fallout costume with the studded flight deck helmet, knee and shin pads, and the blue vest.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 12:48
|
|
|
Paper mâché is underused in my opinion. And another way to get a nice surface that doesn't require sanding is pouncing. Get a round paint brush (about as thick around as a sharpie) and wrap masking tape tightly around the bristles covering up about half an give or so. Cut off the exposed bristles. This leaves a flat surface of stuff bristles. As you apply the pieces of paper mâché tap the mask with the brush with a little pressure kind of like a woodpecker, especially around the edges of the paper. You want to beat up the fibers so they spread. With a little practice you get a very smooth surface. After 4 layers you get a very strong mask and I like to finish by hand rubbing the mask down with white glue to fill in any small pits and imperfections.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 13:03
|
|
|
oneof27 posted:Paper mâché is underused in my opinion. And another way to get a nice surface that doesn't require sanding is pouncing. Get a round paint brush (about as thick around as a sharpie) and wrap masking tape tightly around the bristles covering up about half an give or so. Cut off the exposed bristles. This leaves a flat surface of stuff bristles. As you apply the pieces of paper mâché tap the mask with the brush with a little pressure kind of like a woodpecker, especially around the edges of the paper. You want to beat up the fibers so they spread. With a little practice you get a very smooth surface. What sort of paper would you recommend for papier mache? I usually use news print, phone books or undyed tissue paper (the crinkly packing type, not loo roll), since all these have quite loose fibres but are also thin. Also what's your favoured glue, I tend to go for wallpaper paste but I don't know if there are better options
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 13:06
|
|
|
I'd say paper bags or what we call bogus paper. You want to find something with the longest fibers possible. And always tear the paper so you expose the fibers. The only downside to recycling is all paper nowadays has really short fibers. I use Tite Bond glue and a little water. Some folks soak their paper and pay it dry with paper towels so it accepts the lie better. I don't as the pouncing drives the glue mix in. I also add a small bit of acrylic paint to my glue so I can tell one layer from another. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSsZImGh7GE&feature=youtu.be FYI, here's kind of where my sculpting skills are currently. This was a 3 hour improvised character, oddly enough for a pulp paper mâché experiment.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 22:54
|
|
|
I've only ever papier mâchéd a few times and I've always had decent success with laundry starch. You can buy jugs of it for really cheap, dries clear, comes with a pleasant laundry scent, and cleans up really easily. I can't speak for "advanced methods" like sanding it down, adding plastics, etc. since the last time I used it was for a Halloween costume Thor helmet the year before the movie came out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 15, 2013 23:25
|
|
|
oneof27 posted:I'd say paper bags or what we call bogus paper. You want to find something with the longest fibers possible. And always tear the paper so you expose the fibers. That's really awesome, is she a puppet head? Titebond is an American brand and seems really expansive in the UK, is it a regular PVA wood glue or one of those special ones with added resins etc? I've also never come across bogus paper, google seems to suggest it's similar to newspaper without print and on a roll, so I guess using actual newsprint would also do the job? I tend to layer with regular white newspapers and financial times paper (pale pink) when I can get it to keep track of my layers, or use the yellow pages.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2013 10:22
|
|
|
Done more sculpting on the Zinogre armour. This photo's a bit outdated now, as I've resculpted the whole chestplate, but you get the idea, and it's coming along nice.
Xaerael fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Sep 16, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2013 12:30
|
|
|
DetectiveSlowpoke posted:So, I did a Majora's Mask cosplay and wanted to make another mask. The problem with mine is that the spikes break too easily. I made them out of the stuff you put fake flowers in and strengthened it with a base coat of primer then paint and then put a screw in them to hold it to the mask. This stopped the spikes from breaking off all the way but the tips were too fragile. What i'm getting at is that I am wondering what I should make the spikes out of that isn't so fragile. Thought it's sort of expensive, Wonderflex is awesome. I made spikes almost exactly like yours for a puppet this past summer, and they were very light while also being sturdy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2013 17:04
|
|
|
In anticipation of Halloween, I'm almost finished with my Scythe of the Shadowed Soul (necromancer epic 1.0 from EverQuest). I think I might get a little bit of tattered gauzy fabric like cheesecloth to cover the battery pack under the jaw there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2013 20:34
|
|
|
Xaerael posted:Done more sculpting on the Zinogre armour. This photo's a bit outdated now, as I've resculpted the whole chestplate, but you get the idea, and it's coming along nice. Beautiful! Is it a clay model that you're going to vacuum form? Or is it shaped wonderflex/other sort of plastic? I'm trying to play around with making the front plate on the front of the Slave Leia costume, but I'm not sure how to go about it. I've got a couple options: 1) Mold it out of clay, then vacuum form it 2) Freehand it with some sort of plastic/wonderflex and a heat gun. I'm totally not sure how I'd get all those textures/ridges, though. 3) Go all out, make a mold and cast it in resin. Here's the plate I'm looking at for reference.  In other Star Wars news, I just ordered my BlasTech DL-44 model. Can't wait to put it together, paint the poo poo out of it, and shoot some Greedos. PezMaster fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Sep 17, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2013 03:14
|
|
|
Wrong button 
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2013 03:17
|
|
|
Fatkraken posted:That's really awesome, is she a puppet head? Thanks! It might end up being in a marionette. But as of now it's just an exercise. I would imagine any white glue would do the job as well as Tite Bond. I've never been as concerned about the binding agent as I am about the medium I use. Bogus paper is a bit denser than newsprint. And a roll of it is exceedingly cheap for the amount you get. Edit: Now that I think about it, mixing media by layer would no doubt lead to a stronger final product.
|
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2013 12:30
|
|
|
PezMaster posted:Beautiful! Is it a clay model that you're going to vacuum form? Or is it shaped wonderflex/other sort of plastic? I can answer it (poster is my housemate); it's WED clay and the plan is to cast it in fibreglass. quote:I'm trying to play around with making the front plate on the front of the Slave Leia costume, but I'm not sure how to go about it. I've got a couple options: This might not be popular with everyone, but I would suggest as a fourth possibility molding it in clay and casting it in LATEX, using a plaster mold. It's MUCH cheaper than resin, the marginal cost would be just a few dollars if you buy a largeish batch of latex and plaster and use it for other projects too. http://www.cosplayisland.co.uk/files/costumes/12/4552/NertCam-16815.jpg the silver armour plate on the front of this costume is cast in latex and probably had a marginal cost of about £4 (as I always have tons of latex and plaster on hand) as is the creature skull necklace here http://www.cosplayisland.co.uk/files/costumes/12/4552/NertCam-16857.jpg It's also really strong and flexible, the armour has four built in loops on it with straps through and those things are not going ANYWHERE, and it's not going to split or crack if you knock it. Just make sure you're not allergic to latex EDIT: OH also VERY important, make sure the paint you use does not contain COPPER (or a copper alloy like brass), that poo poo will rot latex. Most gold coloured paints are fine but some do contain copper or copper alloy particles and will totally destroy the latex. Fatkraken fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Sep 17, 2013 |
|
#
?
Sep 17, 2013 19:47
|
|
|
Fatkraken posted:I can answer it (poster is my housemate); it's WED clay and the plan is to cast it in fibreglass. I would have never thought of latex! I always just think of it as material for thin masks or body appliances - I would have never thought it became rigid and tough in thicker amounts. Is it going to be able to be used over and over again for quite a long time? I know that some thinner latex appliances have to be re-made after a couple of uses. I'm looking for something I can set right into the costume and not worry about. That skull and silver plate have the texture and detail I'm going for. It confirms that molding and casting is the best way to go about this - thank you!
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2013 16:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 8, 2024 22:37 |
|
|
PezMaster posted:Beautiful! Is it a clay model that you're going to vacuum form? Or is it shaped wonderflex/other sort of plastic? You may find some good research links from these folks. http://www.rebellegion.com/ I did a Leia costume for a friend last year but didn't do a molded piece because she was cheap. I used foam and paint to create mine. Doesn't look exactly like the real thing but It worked for her and I was pretty happy with it over all. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 18, 2013 17:04
|
|
