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Collateral Damage posted:If your twin engine lugs at 4k rpm there's something wrong with it. Lugging means that feeling where you can hear and feel it just barely make the next revolution, on the verge of stalling. It's not so bad at 4k where it's on the verge of stalling but it definitely loses its sewing machine smoothness. I doubt the bike would be happy at 3.5k that seems crazy. I'll go try today or tomorrow and see.
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Sep 18, 2013 13:35
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My V-twin is certainly happier and more fun above 4k but will drop a lot lower without conplaint. It's more of an issue that it doesn't charge the battery below about 3k, which sucks in traffic. Harleys putter around contentedly at barely over 1k. Lugging really depends on how much load you're putting on it than a fixed RPM number. V-twins can be really misleading if you're used to inlines. It took me a little while to adjust to the oddly spaced power pulses being normal.
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Sep 18, 2013 14:17
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My I4 is smooth from 1000 rpm unless you give it full throttle or something is out of tune. When carbs are out of tune or - say - an exhaust valve has started to melt away, it's rougher down low. But it's not smooth, then rough at a particular spot, then smooth again. These specific rough spots in the rev range can be when the ignition goes from normal to advance or it can be something with the intake. The resonance of the intake path can be thrown off by leaks, missing parts etc. I know I need a snorkel on top of my air box to smooth out the low end, otherwise it jerks and pops around a specific rev band in the low range.
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Sep 18, 2013 15:38
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I'm not trying to replace my tail. I just need a single lamp that would be bright enough to be considered a running light at night and also light up the plate. The incandescent bulbs are still going to be there for brake lights and signals. If you just want to light the plate then consider these bolt/LEDs + these re-usable waterproof connectors. They worked just fine for me. The connectors mean I can quick disconnect the lights if I have to remove the plate for whatever reason. After that it was a simple matter of splicing them into the existing running lights. Have a lovely cell quality vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSnC71KOTmg The taillight included no plate lights so those LED bolts were the answer, and they do the job very nicely.
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Sep 18, 2013 16:13
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144p? It's like Google Video from 2005 all over again.
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Sep 18, 2013 17:04
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Coredump posted:It's not so bad at 4k where it's on the verge of stalling but it definitely loses its sewing machine smoothness. I doubt the bike would be happy at 3.5k that seems crazy. I'll go try today or tomorrow and see. It'll be fine from 2.5K no problem. If you think that's got vibration, try riding a big thumper sometime 
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Sep 18, 2013 19:23
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I got a new battery last year and I didn't do a good job of charging it over the winter (it sat a few months before I put it on a tender). Over the summer it would gradually take more turns to get it to start if I hadn't done some reasonable distance with the bike the day before but it always started eventually. To make sure it didn't die on me in the morning before work, I almost always put the battery on a tender and everything was fine, until last night. I got home from work and forgot to take the key out of the ignition. The battery must have drained in a few hours because I went back outside later that night and didn't notice the headlight turned on. I'm trying to put the battery back on the tender but it tells me it won't charge. Is there anything I can try to fix this or is my battery dead? I have a car battery maintainer which puts out 1.5A instead of 0.75A, if that helps.
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Sep 18, 2013 20:27
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OK I just got my Triumph back after several months of constant problems and eventually finding a new (decent) mechanic who says it's now up to scratch after my air filter was coated in oil, crank sensor was hosed etc. because my last mechanic was useless. Anyway, the point is, I need to start learning how to do basic maintenance and poo poo on my bike because I can't keep letting problems develop and then shell out $800 for them to be fixed. Can anyone recommend a really good online beginner's guide to maintaining a bike? As in, like, The Complete Fuckwit's Guide For Riders Who Have Literally No Idea How A Combustion Engine Even Begins To Work.
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Sep 19, 2013 03:32
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Get the maintenance/repair manual for your model. There's probably a site or some guides online too.
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Sep 19, 2013 04:21
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Anyone mind taking a look at my write-up on what I think I'm supposed to do for an oil change on the last page and offer any feedback? As it turns out the filter I ordered didn't come with a new o-ring (thanks Obama) so I'm gonna have to re-use the old one, which I'm not stoked about but reading around it should be OK? Also, thanks jerkwad shop for not shipping the air filter I ordered last week until this morning, probably won't get it in time 
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Sep 19, 2013 04:30
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So my friend just got his license, and picked up a 2002 Yamaha Virago 250. So far so good, he just wants to putter around town. He just messaged me in a panic: quote:I hosed it up actually, though it wasn't completely my fault. quote:Q: What did it sound like in the guy's driveway? quote:There's oil in the airbox I'm going to get my tools and head over. I'm thinking it's a blown head gasket on at least the front cylinder. The continued ping worries me, might be valves. It's a whodunnit! If anyone can think of things for me to test/look at, please make suggestions. red19fire fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 19, 2013 |
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Sep 19, 2013 19:59
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red19fire posted:So my friend just got his license, and picked up a 2002 Yamaha Virago 250. So far so good, he just wants to putter around town. It's a big end.
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Sep 19, 2013 20:56
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Anyone mind taking a look at my write-up on what I think I'm supposed to do for an oil change on the last page and offer any feedback? As it turns out the filter I ordered didn't come with a new o-ring (thanks Obama) so I'm gonna have to re-use the old one, which I'm not stoked about but reading around it should be OK? Oil change on a bike is pretty simple stuff: ride it for a few minutes to heat it up, let it sit till the headers cool so you don't burn yourself, open drain bolt, catch oil in a basin, unscrew filter, catch the oil it spills in a basin, put on new filter(oil the oring)put back in the drain bolt, fill with oil until in the middle of the sight glass/dip stick.
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Sep 19, 2013 21:03
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Aluminum foil is handy for keeping oil and, to some degree, your hands off the hot header pipes. Just shove a sheet in there and mold a flow path to your drain pan.
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Sep 19, 2013 21:07
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echomadman posted:Oil change on a bike is pretty simple stuff: ride it for a few minutes to heat it up, let it sit till the headers cool so you don't burn yourself, open drain bolt, catch oil in a basin, unscrew filter, catch the oil it spills in a basin, put on new filter(oil the oring)put back in the drain bolt, fill with oil until in the middle of the sight glass/dip stick. ...then run it for a minute again, shut it off, and double-check the oil level.
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Sep 19, 2013 21:07
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The frame is full of oil, and I'm certain it's not an oil frame. Dear lord, what happened. Luckily its more of a clank from the bottom end than a ping. Is it possible he installed the oil filter backwards?
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Sep 20, 2013 00:11
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Sounds like that's going to be fun to fix! My wife's first ride sent coolant through the frame... if the vstar is the same way, that can't be good.
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Sep 20, 2013 00:16
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My mom has had a couple Virago 250s. Nice little bikes, very light. The frame is the airbox. There shouldn't be oil in there. They can be a bit dangerous bikes for engine damage because they use plain bearings with a high pressure oil pump, but there's no oil pressure light. Stupid design. If you're low on oil you'll never know it until something seizes. So the guy doesn't know how much oil was in it? Clank at the bottom end is bad. I don't think those oil filters can go in backwards but you can lose little o-rings that go on them, that might be a problem.
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Sep 20, 2013 00:31
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Also, far as I know he shouldn't be using 10w-40 in that thing?
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Sep 20, 2013 02:17
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Pretty sure they do take 10W40. It's hard to find a Japanese bike that doesn't, in fact.
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Sep 20, 2013 03:42
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Apparently the crankcase vent goes into the frame, too, and he overfilled because he couldn't see the little fill window. But the frame was full, so I'm thinking the PO did too. The front spark plug has oil on it, so that head is definitely toast. I think the po forgot to put new oil in, and it blew when he hit the hill. The engine idles a bit weird, so I might need to clear that up, but also could be the bad head. I can't feel anything clanking around in the crankcase while it's running, so I'm hoping maybe its the valves being a bit loose. The sound reminds me of like a diesel engine running. Its uneven and I can't pinpoint it, might be a loose crank chain according to Google.
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Sep 20, 2013 04:34
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I dunno, there's a lot of bad news swirling around there, but oil on a plug doesn't necessarily mean anything about the head. Especially if the airbox was full of oil, could have just got sucked in and fouled things. I might start by taking the plugs out, turning the engine over with the starter a lot to clear out whatever's in the cylinders, and then do a compression test.
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Sep 21, 2013 04:16
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red19fire posted:Apparently the crankcase vent goes into the frame, too, and he overfilled because he couldn't see the little fill window. But the frame was full, so I'm thinking the PO did too. If it's overfilled, it'll blow a lot of oil through the crankcase breather. It should go to your airbox, but if it's severely overfilled it'll blow enough oil through to fill lower parts of the frame. It'll probably also gently caress up your air filter so check that too.
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Sep 21, 2013 15:53
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Coredump posted:Good place to order some of the Buell turn signals everyone uses? I found the factory part numbers of the turn signals off advrider. Called my local Harley dealer and they said since they never carried any Buells they can't get any Buell "products". Sounds like a bullshit we don't want to deal with you answer. Can anyone confirm or deny?
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Sep 21, 2013 16:07
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Coredump posted:I found the factory part numbers of the turn signals off advrider. Called my local Harley dealer and they said since they never carried any Buells they can't get any Buell "products". Sounds like a bullshit we don't want to deal with you answer. Can anyone confirm or deny? I believe this is actually true. Americansportbike.com probably has those turn signals.
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Sep 21, 2013 16:21
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Sir Cornelius posted:If it's overfilled, it'll blow a lot of oil through the crankcase breather. It should go to your airbox, but if it's severely overfilled it'll blow enough oil through to fill lower parts of the frame. It'll probably also gently caress up your air filter so check that too. Oh yeah, the whole thing is hosed, removing any bolt on the frame spills oil everywhere. The blue smoke makes me think it's a head gasket, going to do a compression test to confirm. Is there a way to tell if piston rings are fried vs. head gaskets? I've read that you can have good compression but still get blue smoke if the bottom oil scraper ring breaks. The fact that he ran the bike uphill without oil, then too much oil, does not bode well.
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Sep 21, 2013 17:06
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Mainly for the British riders - £550 for 14 hours of lessons + hire of a Yamaha XJ6N, test fees for A2 MOD1+2 (and XJ6N for the test)- that's a pretty good deal, right?
Wootcannon fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Sep 21, 2013 |
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Sep 21, 2013 22:27
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High Protein posted:I believe this is actually true. Americansportbike.com probably has those turn signals. This was on the money. Appreciate it.
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Sep 22, 2013 01:20
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Anyone mind taking a look at my write-up on what I think I'm supposed to do for an oil change on the last page and offer any feedback? As it turns out the filter I ordered didn't come with a new o-ring (thanks Obama) so I'm gonna have to re-use the old one, which I'm not stoked about but reading around it should be OK? Don't over-tighten while installing the filter (once it takes more than "no effort" to tighten, only go another 3/4 turn), be wary of cross-threading, etc. Very important that. Maybe call the place you ordered the filter from and get an o-ring? Also, double check that it's not taped to the inside of the box the filter came in.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:57
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XYLOPAGUS posted:So I went on a long ride on the FZR on Sunday. Two things I noticed on the ride: I adjusted the clutch and changed my oil. No slippage yet! Bike feels great! Clutch grabs where it should now. Loving this thing.
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Sep 23, 2013 18:11
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red19fire posted:Oh yeah, the whole thing is hosed, removing any bolt on the frame spills oil everywhere. ... The fact that he ran the bike uphill without oil, then too much oil, does not bode well. This is definitely a textbook example of don't trust the PO's claims regarding service. People seem to forget that your bike itself is a practical component of your safety equipment; a seized engine (or broken chain, tire failure, stuck throttle, etc etc) can easily lead to a fatal crash.
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Sep 23, 2013 19:43
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MoraleHazard posted:Don't over-tighten while installing the filter (once it takes more than "no effort" to tighten, only go another 3/4 turn), be wary of cross-threading, etc. On the V-Strom (and probably SV650, same engine), the shop manual says turn the filter in until it makes contact, and then two more full turns Every time I do it I'm like 
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Sep 23, 2013 20:28
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epalm posted:On the V-Strom (and probably SV650, same engine), the shop manual says turn the filter in until it makes contact, and then two more full turns Yeah. I cannot get one turn on it. My manual says the same thing, but I go finger tight + 3/4 turn and have never had a problem. NO oil falls out when riding, and it's still relatively easy to get off when needed.
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Sep 23, 2013 23:40
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So after my valve job on my BMW oilhead, the valve noises from the engine were somewhat louder than expected. This change happened rather gradually After doing some google sleuthing I feared that maybe I didn't tighten one of the locking nuts and now there was a quarter inch gap of valve clearance. So I pulled the head, and to my relief all of the locking nuts are still there. So the issues could be: Clearances on the rocker arms which from what I can find isn't a big deal. Normal noise a BMW oilhead makes. ???? I cannot think of any huge issue that would cause the bike to explode underneath me. Can anyone else?
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Sep 24, 2013 02:14
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Those 1150s have pretty clattery valve trains, I wouldn't worry too much about it. My wife put a y-pipe on hers which makes it considerably louder, and I still hear the valves over everything.
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Sep 24, 2013 03:04
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Slappy valves = happy valves It's when they're quiet that you have to worry
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Sep 24, 2013 03:16
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clutchpuck posted:Those 1150s have pretty clattery valve trains, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
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Sep 24, 2013 03:28
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My Triumph Street Triple steering is "weird" Never been down except for a parking lot drop but that was a while ago. Maybe the drop could have caused damage that took a while to show itself? I have noticed that the front end is loose at low speeds and the bike will follow tar snakes and such on freeways. I have decided it is not just me and I need to have it looked at. I have no tools or bike work experience. Tire pressure is OK. Any ideas? I will be taking it into the shop later this week. =/
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Sep 24, 2013 07:07
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Stugazi posted:My Triumph Street Triple steering is "weird" Are the tyres squared off? Might be that.
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Sep 24, 2013 07:21
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Are you SURE pressure is okay? Like, what is the pressure exactly?
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Sep 24, 2013 07:40
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