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The Continental ContiAttack SM are pretty great, designed specifically for supermoto and reasonably priced to boot.
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Sep 25, 2013 17:05
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| # ? May 9, 2024 21:30 |
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I have the avon distanzias and they're quite good on the road and provide at least some amount of performance beyond a PP offroad.
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Sep 25, 2013 17:39
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epalm posted:Holy crap I didn't see this thread. Cross posting from the Questions thread. First off congrats and welcome to the awesome dude club. Secondly regular pilot powers stick great with the drz. You'll need tubes, and the drz will fit a 160 rear pilot power.
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Sep 25, 2013 18:30
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ReelBigLizard posted:The Continental ContiAttack are reasonably priced. I disagree. They were balls expensive the last time I went tire shopping
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Sep 25, 2013 18:42
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Crossposting from the DC thread: A bunch of 12 O'Clock Boys wannabes tore through my neighborhood couple nights back. I was coming home after a quick lap around the city when I passed a half dozen cops circled around an ATV and a kid on the ground at the Hess station at Florida and Rhode Island. Didn't think too much of it but when I got home my roommates said a whole bunch of them were blasting up and down our street, riding on the sidewalks, etc. I'm probably lucky I didn't get chased by the cops when I rode past them. Edit: A correction thanks to hot sauce in the other thread, those were the infamous DC Wheelie and/or Glory Boyz https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPgk4s81zo8 ought ten fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Sep 25, 2013 |
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Sep 25, 2013 19:20
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 Did anyone else notice the guy wheely-ing around the loving corner at 2:39 like it was no big deal.
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Sep 25, 2013 22:38
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Niven posted:What's the general consensus on the 640 supermoto? I've always lusted after the 690 but the chances of stumbling across one used are essentially nil here (east coast canada). I've owned one for almost six months now, and compared to the FCR-equipped DRZ I've ridden it's definitely quicker. But even though it's not much heavier, it feels a lot bigger, and with the stock carb the throttle response is a bit sluggish. And oh my does the engine vibrate, I've gotten used to it now, but it is so bad it blurs out almost everything in the mirrors. As KozmoNaut pointed out, oil change intervals are pretty generous, but the procedure involves bleeding the system, which is kind of a hassle.
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Sep 26, 2013 01:06
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epalm posted:I'm buying a drz400sm Owned a GS500 for 1 year. Owned a V-Strom 650 for 1 year. Just bought a DRZ400sm. Initial reaction, in summary: Holy poo poo Initial reaction, in detail:
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Sep 26, 2013 05:51
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ought ten posted:Crossposting from the DC thread: Goddamn DC hiphop is horrible
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Sep 26, 2013 06:08
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epalm posted:Owned a GS500 for 1 year. Heh, I always thought the brakes were just adequate. And I had an EBC big rotor kit and HH pads with fresh fluid. They were scary before the HH pad install, coming from a 400 pound bike with twin discs. The acceleration was fun until I realized I was in 5th gear at 35 mph and that's all. I did love that I could thrash it through all the gears though, the 675 will have me arrested in second so by necessity I short shift and that isn't as fun. The DRZ is definitely a FUN bike and I miss it.
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Sep 26, 2013 06:10
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wallaka posted:The acceleration was fun until I realized I was in 5th gear at 35 mph and that's all. I did love that I could thrash it through all the gears though, the 675 will have me arrested in second so by necessity I short shift and that isn't as fun. The DRZ is definitely a FUN bike and I miss it. Seems to me, on the street I would rather ride a slow bike fast, rather than riding a fast bike slow (until the inevitable "gently caress it" leading to jailtime level speeds). epswing fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Sep 26, 2013 |
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Sep 26, 2013 06:24
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epalm posted:Seems to me, on the street I would rather ride a slow bike fast, rather than riding a fast bike slow (until the inevitable "gently caress it" leading to jailtime level speeds). Yes but soon you're going to have to ponder this conundrum about sidewalks, stairs, loading docks, curbs and the occasional emergency escape grass route. What then?
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Sep 26, 2013 06:32
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epalm posted:Seems to me, on the street I would rather ride a slow bike fast, rather than riding a fast bike slow (until the inevitable "gently caress it" leading to jailtime level speeds). That was kind of my point. I had mine geared to top out at 82 mph, just enough for highway use.
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Sep 26, 2013 06:35
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Since I inspected the bike thoroughly yesterday, and took it for a 10 minute test ride, I figured it would be fine to just ride it home (15 km). So everything is going fine, until 3/4 of the way home, the bike lurches, engine dies a little, then lurches back to life, throttle input is shaky, engine finally dies and I coast to a stop. Several thoughts flew through my head, including "I can't believe I just paid hard earned cash for a bike with Problems (tm)" and "how could the PO let me ride it home if he KNEW something was wrong with it" and "how far am I going to have to push this thing, at least it's not too heavy". Starts right back up, I cautiously resume, engine dies again within a couple kilometers. This time it only starts if I give it some choke. Engine dies at the smallest bit of throttle. Finally I realize I'm out of gas  At this point I'm pretty much home, so I just push it into the parking garage, fill up my little red can at the nearest gas station, and we're back in business  Coredump posted:Yes but soon you're going to have to ponder this conundrum about sidewalks, stairs, loading docks, curbs and the occasional emergency escape grass route. What then? I don't know  what did you do?wallaka posted:That was kind of my point. I had mine geared to top out at 82 mph, just enough for highway use. Just echoing and agreeing with your sentiments, friend.
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Sep 26, 2013 06:43
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doppler posted:As KozmoNaut pointed out, oil change intervals are pretty generous, but the procedure involves bleeding the system, which is kind of a hassle. It's not too bad, even if it's a dry sump? If it's anything like my XT, you warm up the engine, open the filler cap, drain from all of the drain holes (2-3 depending on bike) and put the drain bolts back in. Then you fill it with roughly half the total oil needed, start the bike, rev the engine 4-5 times, shut it off and put in the rest of the oil. Sure, it's a bit more involved than on a normal wet sump engine, but it's not that hard. Just make sure to get the factory service manual. There are a couple of sites that have them as PDFs, but I guess they're  , so I can't link them.
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Sep 26, 2013 10:02
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Do a search for "lc4 oil burping" and rejoice at the funfilled adventures that awaits!
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Sep 26, 2013 10:43
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Do a search for "lc4 oil burping" and rejoice at the funfilled adventures that awaits! On my 625, you fill the crank case with something like a liter and then put 700 ml in the frame down tube. Start the engine, and in about 20 seconds oil will begin to seep out of the frame fill point. You screw in the plug, shut down the engine and torque it down. Look up Creeper's how-to's on AdvRider. It is tedious, but not hard.
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Sep 26, 2013 14:40
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epalm posted:Since I inspected the bike thoroughly yesterday, and took it for a 10 minute test ride, I figured it would be fine to just ride it home (15 km). So everything is going fine, until 3/4 of the way home, the bike lurches, engine dies a little, then lurches back to life, throttle input is shaky, engine finally dies and I coast to a stop. Several thoughts flew through my head, including "I can't believe I just paid hard earned cash for a bike with Problems (tm)" and "how could the PO let me ride it home if he KNEW something was wrong with it" and "how far am I going to have to push this thing, at least it's not too heavy". Starts right back up, I cautiously resume, engine dies again within a couple kilometers. This time it only starts if I give it some choke. Engine dies at the smallest bit of throttle. Don't forget that unlike FI bikes there's a reserve. Turn the fuel petcock to the opposite side of where it normally operates to get to it. Note this only applies on stock tanks. I think it's about .4 gallons but don't quote me there.
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Sep 26, 2013 14:50
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Snowdens Secret posted:Goddamn DC hiphop is horrible Those are fightin words
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Sep 26, 2013 14:56
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JP Money posted:Don't forget that unlike FI bikes there's a reserve. Turn the fuel petcock to the opposite side of where it normally operates to get to it. Note this only applies on stock tanks. I think it's about .4 gallons but don't quote me there. Yeah you'd think a year on a GS500 (carbed with reserve) would have triggered the lightbulb. Nope. (I was too to think straight at the time.)
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Sep 26, 2013 15:24
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epalm posted:Yeah you'd think a year on a GS500 (carbed with reserve) would have triggered the lightbulb. Nope. No worries, get real comfortable with that otherwise you won't get too far :p I think I get around 40mpg around town on my DRZ so at around 80 miles it'll cut out and I'll switch to the reserve for another few miles until I get gas. I didn't really like the way my Clarke 3.9 gallon tank looked on the DRZ but I kind of miss it now  Having that extra gas made a huge difference but it unfortunately had no reserve and made the choke kind of a pain to use. It was good for like 180 miles though so I filled up maybe once a month or something.
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Sep 26, 2013 15:37
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Oversize tanks are nice, but agreed, they're super ugly. My DRZ will go 80-85 miles before reserve. Reserve will take you another 10-15 at least.
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Sep 26, 2013 15:56
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epalm posted:I don't know Shoot I just have an SV650 so I'm not faced with such dilemmas. I'm just in here to live vicariously through others.
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Sep 26, 2013 17:20
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Oversize tanks are nice, but agreed, they're super ugly. My DRZ will go 80-85 miles before reserve. Reserve will take you another 10-15 at least. with -3 teeth on back sprocket I time I always hit reserve at 100 miles. Convenient.  My Average MPG is 52 with lowest and highest being 46 and 61.
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Sep 26, 2013 17:31
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Why don't your oversized tanks have a reserve? My Clarke uses the original petcock. 230 miles on my drz, then at least 10 or so on reserve. More if I lean the bike way over and slosh some fuel out of the tank "wing" that hangs over on the right.
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Sep 26, 2013 17:53
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eddiewalker posted:Why don't your oversized tanks have a reserve? My Clarke uses the original petcock. Iirc, the clarke petcock location fouls on the choke for the carb. I liked the IMS because it looked more stock but also because you could still get up on the tank with it...the clarke makes am aggressive upward slope to the front of the tank.
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Sep 26, 2013 17:57
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Don't know, maybe there was a revision at some point? The second choke detent kind of brushes the inside of the tank wing, but it still engages fine, and I never use the second chock notch more than a few seconds anyway.
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Sep 26, 2013 18:13
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Yeah it's been while since I've been on a DRZ, haha. Maybe the ims fouled on the chokw? I just remember one of those 2 was a complete pain in the rear end to get to the choke on.
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Sep 26, 2013 18:38
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Snowdens Secret posted:Goddamn DC hiphop is horrible That's why our real city anthem is gogo music  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsPsXLFIBGg
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Sep 26, 2013 19:17
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On mine it was pretty easy to just bend that part of the tank out if you really needed to get to full choke. Half was no problem. I have no idea how an FCR interacts with the oversized tanks since my original DRZ was stock in that regard though.
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Sep 26, 2013 19:17
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epalm posted:I don't know You find out how deep the rabbit hole goes *youtube dubstep supermoto videooooooooo*
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Sep 26, 2013 19:24
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Is there a trick to telling a late AP squirt from an early one? Obviously they both produce a bog for different reasons, and I guess I could start way late and make it sooner and sooner until it starts running bad and back it off again.
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Sep 27, 2013 21:46
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I have 2 probably retarded DRZ questions. I also probably lack the vocabulary required to properly express myself. I have not acquired the DRZ shop manual yet (I have a 2006). I'm attempting to adjust the chain. 1. After removing the cotter pin and loosening the axle nut, I can wiggle the back wheel a little to either side. The axle bolt (or just "the axle"?) goes through a movable rectangular-looking thing that I will refer to as The Thing. To adjust the chain slack, do I need to remove the axle nut and bolt (won't the tire come off?) and slide The Thing all the way back and out, so I can access the bolt "X" coming out of the swingarm?  (Not my bike.) 2. After eyeballing The Thing for a couple minutes and deciding to ask online, I re-tightened the axle nut to 72.5 lb-ft. At this spot in its rotation, the holes don't line up for cotter pin insertion, and I had to loosen the axle nut about 1/8 of a turn to make it fit. What up with that?
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Oct 1, 2013 08:13
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Loosen the axle nut then turn the adjuster bolt with a wrench to push the axle blocks back. Don't over tighten the chain, the distance between the axle and the front sprocket changes through the wheel travel, so you have to leave some slack.
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Oct 1, 2013 13:30
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epalm posted:I have 2 probably retarded DRZ questions. I also probably lack the vocabulary required to properly express myself. I have not acquired the DRZ shop manual yet (I have a 2006). I'm attempting to adjust the chain. You loosen the large nut and axle only so the wheel can move back and forth. All adjusting is done with the bolts you have labeled X on that image.
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Oct 1, 2013 14:17
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epalm posted:2. After eyeballing The Thing for a couple minutes and deciding to ask online, I re-tightened the axle nut to 72.5 lb-ft. At this spot in its rotation, the holes don't line up for cotter pin insertion, and I had to loosen the axle nut about 1/8 of a turn to make it fit. What up with that? Things don't always line up. Just torque it to spec, then tighten it just enough further that the cotter pin will fit.
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Oct 1, 2013 14:19
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I will handle the glossary on this one. Sup.epalm posted:The axle bolt (or just "the axle"?) quote:goes through a movable rectangular-looking thing that I will refer to as The Thing. quote:the bolt "X" coming out of the swingarm? Boom.
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Oct 1, 2013 14:23
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Thanks all, you guys are champs  It looks like the adjuster bolt has a nut on one side (closer to the adjuster plate), and another on the other side (closer to the engine). I guess I'll just try turning both (harder) and see which one gives. Neither was giving yesterday. The other issue I had was actually turning the adjuster bolt. Once you've got the teeth of the wrench in place, the wrench only has a tiny little bit of turn in either direction. Maybe I'm using the wrong tool. epswing fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Oct 1, 2013 |
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Oct 1, 2013 15:21
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The side of the adjuster bolt close to the plate is the head of the bolt, this is the part that actually threads in and out of the swingarm to adjust your wheel. The other one, facing the engine is a nut, this serves only to hold the adjuster bolt in place when you're done adjusting. Loosen the nut and the main bolt will turn, allowing you to adjust the plates (and the wheel with them). The adjuster bolt only needs tiny turns to make a big difference in wheel position. Generally, most adjustments will only require slight movement of the adjuster bolt The general steps should go like this (some of these you have already done): 1) Cotter pin out 2) Loosen axle nut 3) Loosen adjuster bolt nuts (engine-side) 4) Move adjuster bolts so your wheel is straight and your chain is at proper tension. 5) Tighten axle nut, not full torque, just enough to hold it in place. 6) Double check wheel positioning, if its good, continue, if not, loosen the axle nut and readjust wheel, then go back to step 5 7) Tighten adjuster bolts slightly against adjuster plates 8) Tighten adjuster bolt nuts 9) Tighten axle nut to torque specs 10) Cotter pin in
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Oct 1, 2013 15:28
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| # ? May 9, 2024 21:30 |
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UGH, thank you. So simple.
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Oct 1, 2013 15:44
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