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Geirskogul posted:Use baby powder. Also you may be able to squeeze the tire inwards a bit, allowing the far side from what you're working on to settle into the wheel, giving you more room to work. But seriously, without a lubricant or powder of some sort, you're probably hosed. I was dicking around with my Enfield's tire (120/90x19) for half an hour before I grabbed the talcum and dusted everything, then I finished less than a minute afterwards. I'm actually using Formula 409 as lubricant. It's how I got most of the tire on there.
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Oct 8, 2013 05:14
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Isn't 14.5 pretty high for battery charging? Your bike has a separate regulator / rectifier doesn't it? Are you buying stuff from the oregonmotorcycleparts guy? Are you sure you aren't frying your battery? A new rectifier is only half the solution (usually) Other thing worth checking is to see if there is a draw in the system while the bike is off (I doubt this would be the case on a bike that old).
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Oct 8, 2013 05:19
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYa9EEG3rOM I couldn't explain this, but skip to about 5:00 minutes in. That's what you need to do.
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Oct 8, 2013 05:24
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n8r posted:Isn't 14.5 pretty high for battery charging? Your bike has a separate regulator / rectifier doesn't it? Are you buying stuff from the oregonmotorcycleparts guy? Are you sure you aren't frying your battery? A new rectifier is only half the solution (usually) 14.5 is about right for max charging, the 12-volt battery is actually supposed to be low-mid 13s and generally when people are frying them it's with 16V+ essentially unregulated. I don't know about his particular CB but everything about his problem screams bad stator. Coincidentally my Futura isn't charging so great either it's weak to crank sometimes and I've had to pull the battery out and charge it once this season. I ordered an onboard voltmeter so I can keep an eye on it. I suspect the reg/rec might be going, or the PO's rewire job may need cleaning up. Or it could just be that my short, low-speed around town trips aren't giving it enough revs over time to charge. I want to put heated grips and maybe some auxiliary lights on it so I need the electrics putting out as much pep as they can.
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Oct 8, 2013 08:32
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BlackMK4 posted:I've never heard that pneumonic before, it works great. Hah. It's the one I've used since I was a kid. It's mnemonic, btw. 
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Oct 8, 2013 08:59
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Gweenz posted:Anyone else have problems with tires slipping on white road paint? For example, at a crosswalk where you have those roughly 1'x3' sections of white paint. There is one near my house that is in the middle of a sweeping right-hander, and I've caught the paint with my tires before and felt them slip ever so slightly. It is rear end in a top hat puckering for sure. I'm just wondering if it's normal or if my local road crews aren't putting something they should in the paint. Yeah.. I wound up dropping my bike a couple of days ago after accidentally locking the front wheel when it hit paint. Trashed my mirror, a tip over bar cover, and I took a pretty decent smack to the head so I'm replacing my helmet too. Nice little $500 reminder that paint stripes are the loving devil. 
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Oct 8, 2013 09:28
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Snowdens Secret posted:14.5 is about right for max charging, the 12-volt battery is actually supposed to be low-mid 13s and generally when people are frying them it's with 16V+ essentially unregulated. Yeah, that's just Italian character or something - Aprilia always put woefully inadequate batteries on their bikes, particularly given the higher cranking current required for a big v-twin. They also tend not to even think about charging until you're over 4krpm which sort of negates one of the points of a big v-twin. (There were problems with the reg/rec on the first-gen Rotax v-twins but I think they were all ironed out by the time the Futura came around)
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Oct 8, 2013 10:12
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I have an interesting phenomenon I haven't been able to figure out conclusively. I've found that with some of my bikes (including my current one), you can audibly hear when the front brakes are being applied. It's a prominent hissing/buzzing noise, kind of like an electric motor freewheeling or something. I can't seem to find a correlation between brake design and the noise. I first noticed it on a cbr400 with conventional floating drilled discs and sliding two-piston calipers. But a vfr400 with the same discs and four-pots didn't do it. My sv650, also sliding calipers, didn't do it. My hornet 900 did it and it had four-pots. My rex never did it despite having six piston calipers and pretty enormous rotors. Finally, my zx10 does it despite having wave rotors and radial calipers. This is by no means an exhaustive list of every bike I've ever owned/ridden, but it's every one that I can remember one way or another. Anyone care to speculate on what determines if a bike will make that sound or not? Pad compound doesn't seem to have any bearing on it either, nor does disc deformation (if any) or the age/condition of the bike in general.
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Oct 8, 2013 10:17
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Is it the same noise as when you just freespin the front wheel? It's probably just the noise of the pads sliding along the disc.
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Oct 8, 2013 10:54
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Geirskogul posted:Also you may be able to squeeze the tire inwards a bit, allowing the far side from what you're working on to settle into the wheel, giving you more room to work. Slavvy posted:Anyone care to speculate on what determines if a bike will make that sound or not? Pad compound doesn't seem to have any bearing on it either, nor does disc deformation (if any) or the age/condition of the bike in general.
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Oct 8, 2013 13:16
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n8r posted:Isn't 14.5 pretty high for battery charging? Your bike has a separate regulator / rectifier doesn't it? Are you buying stuff from the oregonmotorcycleparts guy? Are you sure you aren't frying your battery? A new rectifier is only half the solution (usually)
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Oct 8, 2013 13:19
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Safety Dance posted:Ok, I give up. What do I do from here? I know you're asking about mounting the tire, but make sure to check the bearings while you have the wheel off.
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Oct 8, 2013 15:28
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Slavvy posted:I have an interesting phenomenon I haven't been able to figure out conclusively. I've found that with some of my bikes (including my current one), you can audibly hear when the front brakes are being applied. It's a prominent hissing/buzzing noise, kind of like an electric motor freewheeling or something. I can't seem to find a correlation between brake design and the noise. I have this exact sound on the 690 as well, but only after the brakes have warmed up a bit.
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Oct 8, 2013 15:56
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Almost always, if you can't get a tire on, this is what you're doing wrong. This has to be done to get the tire on. Get the opposite side of the tire down into the deeper part of the rim, all the way around. The tire may not want to stay down there, you have to make it stay there one way or another until the bead is mounted all the way around. The HH composite pads are widely known for the zzzzzzzzzt noise they make when applied. All pads make some degree of noise or another in my experience, but I've always especially noticed the composite pads because it's such a different sort of sound and stands out. Calipers have dick to do with it. The sound is generated from one surface rubbing/grinding/buzzing against another. Shims can help with squeal which is caused by excessive vibration, but there's not much to do about silencing surface to surface contact. It's going to sound like whatever it sounds like when the composition of the rotor meets with the composition of the pads. It's normal.
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Oct 8, 2013 15:57
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I have this exact sound on the 690 as well, but only after the brakes have warmed up a bit. I had it on my GSXR, Bandit, and have it on my DRZ. As far as I can tell, its the drilled parts of the rotor scraping past the pads. In fact, I think every bike with drilled rotors does it, some are just too quiet to hear while the engine is running.
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Oct 8, 2013 15:58
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Geirskogul posted:The failed stator is very heat dependent, and only fails when hot. It is impossible to test off of the bike. Go do a search on the SOHC forums. Thanks for the advice guys. (Not) coincidentally, I was a bit low on oil this last time the bike battery got zapped, making the bike much hotter than normal. Replacing just the stator should do the trick, or do those need to be replaced in conjunction with a few other parts (rotor, rectifier)?
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Oct 8, 2013 16:01
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I had it on my GSXR, Bandit, and have it on my DRZ. As far as I can tell, its the drilled parts of the rotor scraping past the pads. In fact, I think every bike with drilled rotors does it, some are just too quiet to hear while the engine is running. I hated my drilled rotor because of that. It was also way worse with metallic sintered pads or whatever. Slotted rotor plus carbon kevlar solved my brake annoyances.
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Oct 8, 2013 17:34
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My Speed Triple makes a very satisfying fssshhh noise from the front brake as it stops on a dime. If the Aprilia makes any noise, I can't hear it. The Triumph's brakes are far superior, for what that's worth. If it's not squealing I don't get why anyone would be annoyed with it.
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Oct 8, 2013 17:39
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LooksLikeABabyRat posted:Thanks for the advice guys. (Not) coincidentally, I was a bit low on oil this last time the bike battery got zapped, making the bike much hotter than normal. Replacing just the stator should do the trick, or do those need to be replaced in conjunction with a few other parts (rotor, rectifier)? I think you need to look into testing the voltage as you're riding. Throwing parts at an electrical problem is always a great way to waste money. Nevermind that a stator can be a bitch to replace on lots of bikes.
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Oct 8, 2013 17:58
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Safety Dance posted:Ok, I give up. What do I do from here? Take the tire small bits at a time, get the tire warm if possible, lube the contact points between the tire and the rim, try and force the other side of the bead into the drop center. I've got long irons too but unless the sidewall is really stiff, you shouldn't need hte leverage. And 2nding clutchpucks advice on bearing checking. That's one thing that gets neglected quite a bit when you start changing your own tires.
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Oct 8, 2013 18:19
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n8r posted:I think you need to look into testing the voltage as you're riding. Throwing parts at an electrical problem is always a great way to waste money. Nevermind that a stator can be a bitch to replace on lots of bikes. I was thinking of throwing some kind of voltage gauge on there so I could see what was going on as I was riding. Apparently they're less than $20. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-12V-LED-Digital-Volt-Meter-Car-Motorcycle-battery-Monitor-Voltmeter-/270914738103 I checked the voltages this morning before I left and it was basically the same as yesterday. off 12.5 v on idle 11.93v on 4.5k rpm 14.9v (choke was on)
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Oct 8, 2013 19:05
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14.9 is overcharging. I bet it's spiking higher under use.
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Oct 8, 2013 19:25
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Would the stator be the culprit then? (I'm bad with mechanics, but I think overcharge is usually caused by bad regulator, and I just replaced the RR).
LooksLikeABabyRat fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Oct 8, 2013 |
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Oct 8, 2013 19:39
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LooksLikeABabyRat posted:Thanks for the advice guys. (Not) coincidentally, I was a bit low on oil this last time the bike battery got zapped, making the bike much hotter than normal. Replacing just the stator should do the trick, or do those need to be replaced in conjunction with a few other parts (rotor, rectifier)? Bad stators will take out rectifiers too. My first bike was a 1981 CB650C and it had this exact issue. Stator tested good when bike was cold. Replace stator, check rectifier. Hopefully the battery is fine, but you can check it at most auto parts stores.
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Oct 8, 2013 19:45
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LooksLikeABabyRat posted:Would the stator be the culprit then? (I'm bad with mechanics, but I think overcharge is usually caused by bad regulator, and I just replaced the RR). You can't tell without diagnostics under load. I'd follow Geirskogul's advice and search on the SOHC forums - I'm sure they'll have broken down the exact steps to figure out what has failed and what needs to be replaced/upgraded to keep your bike reliable.
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Oct 8, 2013 19:47
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Thanks guys! I think I'm going to just go ahead and replace the stator (I think it still has the stock one) and then go ahead and replace the RR if I still have problems after that. Maybe I'll throw a voltage gauge on there just for good measure.
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Oct 8, 2013 19:49
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If you're going to throw parts at it replace the regulator next. Much easier to replace and may or may not be cheaper. If it's doing 14.5V under no load I bet you're going way over that with the bike under load. The regulator is what is suppose to step that down to the proper voltage. EDIT: Are you sure you have a battery that is still good after these shennanigans? Always worth re-testing the battery on it's own.
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Oct 8, 2013 22:20
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Battery could potentially be shot. Regulator/rectifier is the same part, and has recently been replaced (no more than 2 months ago). It could have been potentially damaged by the faulty stator or the rotor though. That's apparently a common thing (charging failure indicates bad rectifier, but rectifier is bad due to other part failing).
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Oct 8, 2013 22:39
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Ah well, then carry on. I'd probably try to measure the voltage while riding with some creative zip tying before diving into replacing the stator. The googlenet led me to believe that they were separate units in your bike.
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Oct 8, 2013 23:54
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So I noticed what I thought was more clutch slipping today but then I felt my rear kick back in line and realized it was, at least partially, just breaking my rear wheel loose causing the revs to jump and not move forward as fast as expected. Hopefully my previous experiences were also just the rear breaking loose. If the clutch is slipping, will is consistently always slip or can it just occasionally do so?
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Oct 9, 2013 05:58
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hayden. posted:So I noticed what I thought was more clutch slipping today but then I felt my rear kick back in line and realized it was, at least partially, just breaking my rear wheel loose causing the revs to jump and not move forward as fast as expected. Hopefully my previous experiences were also just the rear breaking loose. Generally it'll get worse as it gets hotter or in stop and go traffic.
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Oct 9, 2013 07:23
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hayden. posted:So I noticed what I thought was more clutch slipping today but then I felt my rear kick back in line and realized it was, at least partially, just breaking my rear wheel loose causing the revs to jump and not move forward as fast as expected. Hopefully my previous experiences were also just the rear breaking loose. I thought the same thing when my clutch started slipping after installing a big bore kit on my KLR.
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Oct 9, 2013 07:34
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hayden. posted:So I noticed what I thought was more clutch slipping today but then I felt my rear kick back in line and realized it was, at least partially, just breaking my rear wheel loose causing the revs to jump and not move forward as fast as expected. Hopefully my previous experiences were also just the rear breaking loose. I had the same thing moving from the 690 to the R1, I thought I was slipping the clutch taking off from lights when in fact I was apparently doing rolling burnouts because I was taking off like I would on the KTM but with like a bajillion more torques  I think the easiest way to check for clutch slipping is in a high gear. Get up to 4th,5th,6th or whatever and give it the beans and see if the RPM jumps more than it should.
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Oct 9, 2013 14:28
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Easiest way, get up to 6th, find a gentle uphill with the engine at around 2k, pull the clutch in, hold the throttle at about 8k or so of revs, and then drop the clutch. The bike should lurch and the rpms should pretty much immediately drop to 2-3k. If it slowly spins down, or if you do it once and it feels weird, try it again but add some throttle as you dump the clutch. If you can get it to free rev with the throttle in this situation, your plates aren't long for the world.
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Oct 9, 2013 17:10
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ReelBigLizard posted:I was apparently doing rolling burnouts Ahaha, this is great! 
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Oct 9, 2013 19:52
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ReelBigLizard posted:I had the same thing moving from the 690 to the R1, I thought I was slipping the clutch taking off from lights when in fact I was apparently doing rolling burnouts because I was taking off like I would on the KTM but with like a bajillion more torques Hahaha I love this!
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Oct 9, 2013 21:23
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n8r posted:Chains don't really slip. You sure it isn't a clutch? How is the tension of the chain? Zool posted:It sounds like you need new sprockets anyways, but for the chain to slip you need a lot of teeth missing from the sprocket. Have you adjusted the clutch cable tension? Thanks for the advice. I went ahead and replaced chain and sprockets today. I looked at the clutch tension and that felt fine as far as I could tell. I only took it for a quick test ride since it just started to rain when I finished and I didn't feel any kind of slippage. I found this post which seems to match what I experienced and it looks like it was solved by a Technical Service Bulletin describing a new chain tension (what is shown in the image on the bottom of this page. Some people have also hypothesized that the OEM rear sprocket has a problematic design that can prevent the chain from completely seating on the teeth. The tension before I replaced the chain was a bit loose, but not so much that I would have thought it would cause problems. Also, when I took the rear sprocket off I found all the bolts were loose and had loctite residue. I put loctite on when reinstalling and will keep an eye on the bolts. Hopefully it didn't damage the hub, but I have no idea how long they have been loose. One more question, the TSB only gives a 5 mm leeway in the chain tension. I don't have the pressure gauge it says to use to hold up the chain so did my best to estimate, but 5 mm seems like a pretty small window. Should I go through the trouble of getting the pressure gauge to make sure it's perfect? Also, I'm going to do what Z3n described a couple posts up to make sure it's not clutch slippage.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:21
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What would be the best way to go about upgrading the front end on bikes? My TS400's front drum is pretty bad and out of round and I was considering swapping in new forks at some point to upgrade to a disk brake. I don't know if it'd be safe to keep the same triples for only 1 mm up or down, or if I'd want to modify the donor bike's triples to fit on my bike.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:25
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Slim Pickens posted:What would be the best way to go about upgrading the front end on bikes? My TS400's front drum is pretty bad and out of round and I was considering swapping in new forks at some point to upgrade to a disk brake. I don't know if it'd be safe to keep the same triples for only 1 mm up or down, or if I'd want to modify the donor bike's triples to fit on my bike. The best way to do it in terms of performance is to modify triples from another bike so you can use a thicker fork. But if you're just looking to swap to a disc you just need to find some forks that are the same diameter (probably 33mm) and roughly the same length. You need to make sure the axle width is the same and modify if necessary since your bike and the donor will probably be different. having the forks stick a few mm's above the triple doesn't make much difference though keep in mind it will affect the rake. Then it's just a matter of routing the brake line and mounting the master cylinder. If you're lucky there's an easy swap available but I'm not sure about a TS400.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:50
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The TS400 has 34mm tube diameters. The closest replacement would be a DR200 with 35mm tubes. No idea on length, though, this is just an idea I'm toying with for now.
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Oct 9, 2013 22:56
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