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blk posted:Anybody here drive an MS6? Yo.
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Sep 15, 2013 03:18
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blk posted:Anybody here drive an MS6? Also Yo.
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Sep 15, 2013 03:20
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Yo cubed.
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Sep 15, 2013 06:55
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Back again... I wanted to see if someone could explain the "interior lighting kit" option on the 2013MS3? The model I borrowed had it on the list of items included (as well as a $500 clearcoat - dealerships still do that?). Anyway. I noticed there was a blue LED light over the shifter, and on each side where the window/lock controls are. I didn't notice if it was in the footwell, but from what I'm reading online, the footwhells are what that kit refers to. I don't really care about the footwell, but having the light on the window/lock control and over the shifter was actually pretty nice. None of the stuff I'm reading on the Mazda site really seems to help demystify it for me.
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Sep 16, 2013 15:25
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JBR Rear Sway Bar trip report! Piece of cake install that took all of 20 minutes. Car feels a lot more stable in high speed turns, steering in general feels sharper, and all in all quite happy with the driveability improvement. Another excellent price:performance power mod. Now I wish I could say the same thing about MOOG endlinks because I straight up gave up and they are getting returned. Getting those installed is a colossal pain in the rear end. e: My rear still kind of clunks a TINY bit, like if I go over gravel or a ton of little bumps rapidly, I don't know what to try next... TPE endlinks? The stock endlinks are on there super tight and don't appear to be worn at all. I'm at a loss 
air- fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Sep 16, 2013 |
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Sep 16, 2013 15:53
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Aexo posted:Back again... I wanted to see if someone could explain the "interior lighting kit" option on the 2013MS3? The model I borrowed had it on the list of items included (as well as a $500 clearcoat - dealerships still do that?). Anyway. I noticed there was a blue LED light over the shifter, and on each side where the window/lock controls are. I didn't notice if it was in the footwell, but from what I'm reading online, the footwhells are what that kit refers to. I don't really care about the footwell, but having the light on the window/lock control and over the shifter was actually pretty nice. None of the stuff I'm reading on the Mazda site really seems to help demystify it for me. The shifter/window switch lights are standard. The lighting kit is footwell illumination with a little dimmer switch in a knockout panel on the leftside of the steering wheel. It's also different from the footwell 'welcome lighting' that some 3s have.
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Sep 17, 2013 19:17
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Awesome! Thanks! Still waiting to get my Celica and a check back from the insurance company. Once I get the money, I'm very likely going to see what kind of rate my bank and Mazda can get me.
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Sep 17, 2013 23:25
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Quick question: will my 2008 Mazda 6i benefit, economywise, from an aftermarket air intake?
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Sep 19, 2013 20:32
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YoungBuns posted:Quick question: will my 2008 Mazda 6i benefit, economywise, from an aftermarket air intake? Short answer: No. Most factory intakes since about the early 90s are engineered to have optimal flow matched with the engine. A lot of them also already take in cold air, either from the fender or a grille snorkel. Going to an aftermarket, I assume cone-style filter, takes that away as you're sucking hot air from the engine bay, and when the computer senses that it'll tune itself a tad richer to prevent knocking. And Mazdas are known for running rich anyway. Basically the only actual benefit an aftermarket filter has is the performance sound, everything else (including power output, in most cases) is measurably worse 99.9% of the time.
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Sep 20, 2013 07:34
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MetaJew posted:I discovered today that my 235 series Hankook Ventuses on 17x8 RPF1s rub the at the very least on my driver side rear fender lip. I had some passengers and hit a bump and heard something scrape. When we got to our destination and I looked at the tire, it had some bits of rubber shaved off on the very edge of the tread, but no sidewall. Do we not have any of the Hellaflush crowd in here who could tell me about getting my fender's rolled? For reference, here's the damage. In the second image you can see the part of the fender lip that seems to have bit the tire. The damage isn't super bad, but I'd rather reduce any risk of a blow out when I have passengers.  
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Sep 20, 2013 08:30
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MetaJew posted:Do we not have any of the Hellaflush crowd in here who could tell me about getting my fender's rolled? I have rolled my own fenders both the stupid way (AND in the DARK) and also the smart way (rented a real tool). If you get an actual tool it is totally DIYable if you exercise extreme caution and work very slowly at first. Pro tip: You NEED a heat source (heat gun on low setting is preferable, hair dryer on high is a distant second) to warm the paint on the edge you are rolling so that it doesnt crack. You'd be amazed how flexible the paint becomes when hot, and also how easily it cracks when cold. Funnily enough the only car ive rolled fenders on have been my Dodge Dynastys. You can see that i did both roll and kind of flared/pulled on this shot of the front fender, but i would NOT attempt that under most circumstances, and your case definitely doesn't call for it. In my case i was leaving some room for wheel spacers and i have a wheel arch trim piece (not shown here) that covers the ugliness of what i did to make more room than i needed. 
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Sep 20, 2013 08:49
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Fucknag posted:Short answer: No. Thanks for the info. I asked because there was a lot of talk years ago in this very thread about MS3s and MS6s benefiting from increased air flow (as well as someone casually mentioning in some other thread I don't remember a while back that the MS3s were one of the rare exceptions to the generally sound advice to not meddle with your stock air intake). Of course, my car isn't turbocharged.
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Sep 20, 2013 22:34
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Yeah turbo cars are a different story, since having a restricted intake can limit how much air the turbo can output. With any modern car though, if you get an oiled filter (K&N et al), make sure it's not too close to the MAF sensor. Oil can get sucked through and deposited on the hot wire, throwing off the reading and setting a check engine light. The MZRs are definitely susceptible to it, I interned at Mazda for about a month and saw a few 3s with K&Ns that came in for MAF sensor codes, a shot of cleaner and sticking a stock filter in cleared them right up.
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Sep 20, 2013 22:58
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Even when accounting for turbo cars, the number of cars that benefit from inlet mods ("cold air kits", etc) is far smaller than the number of cars that don't. Some of the only ones I can think of are fourth-gen F-Bodies, where GM was actively restricting the LT1 / LS1 in that car so that the same engine in the Corvette could be advertised as having more horsepower. Modern engineers, especially when not having to work within the confines of "$EverymanCar must not make too much horsepower or it will eat into sales of $HaloCar", don't have that problem. The turbo inlet pipe on the MS3, for example, looks like it should be restricting performance like mad; but the "better" aftermarket versions don't really do much of anything. They did their homework and made sure that it moves enough air for the stock MZR to make use of, while fitting into that entirely-too-tight engine bay. Fucknag: The issue isn't so much distance between K&N and MAF, as it is over-oiling. It's really easy to over-oil a K&N, and many times a brand new one already has too much oil on it from K&N. Now that there are washable dry filters out there, though, I'd love to swap the oiled K&N on my GMC for a DryFlow.
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Sep 20, 2013 23:06
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Whoever made the "OEM" CAI for the first gen MS3 had a dry filter on there. It worked well and I think was a decent bump on HP/Tq. Location was scary that low in the fender well.
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Sep 21, 2013 05:00
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IOwnCalculus posted:Modern engineers, especially when not having to work within the confines of "$EverymanCar must not make too much horsepower or it will eat into sales of $HaloCar", don't have that problem. The turbo inlet pipe on the MS3, for example, looks like it should be restricting performance like mad; but the "better" aftermarket versions don't really do much of anything. They did their homework and made sure that it moves enough air for the stock MZR to make use of, while fitting into that entirely-too-tight engine bay. I've read loads of posts in this and other forums saying otherwise, that the MZR inlet is horrible and that any upgrade is better than the stock one. Edit: Since installing the CS inlet my mpg has gone from 19 to 23. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Sep 21, 2013 |
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Sep 21, 2013 05:08
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IOwnCalculus posted:Even when accounting for turbo cars, the number of cars that benefit from inlet mods ("cold air kits", etc) is far smaller than the number of cars that don't. At stock power levels, i agree with you. On a turbo car, there is a boost control system that will just let the turbo spin faster and faster until it hits its boost target. So if you put an extra restriction in front of a turbo, what happens is it will spin faster, which will make it incrementally less efficient, but if the restriction is not huge it will probably still hit its boost target and feel mostly the same according to the butt dyno. Where the inlet restriction can become a big deal is when you ARENT operating in the middle of the compressor map (i.e. after some mods), because at that point an efficiency change in either direction can cause big performance changes. If you're running a turbo 'off the map' and improve the inlet tract, you will probably be able to feel the difference.
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Sep 22, 2013 05:16
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Rhyno posted:I've read loads of posts in this and other forums saying otherwise, that the MZR inlet is horrible and that any upgrade is better than the stock one. Was it just your inlet you installed or did you put a SRI/CAI as well?
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Sep 23, 2013 15:51
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Black Is Black posted:Was it just your inlet you installed or did you put a SRI/CAI as well? Both. And I was mocked for doing so.
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Sep 23, 2013 17:48
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Any red flags to look out for on a 2002 Protege5? Running through a shopping list of cheap-ish cars to commute ~100miles a day and I really like the look of the Protege5 hatch, and they're not terribly expensive. I'd like to not resort to the lowest common denominator of a Civic or something since I have to sit in this thing 3 hours a day and I'd like to actually like looking at it for that long.
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Sep 29, 2013 19:48
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So I went to the Cobb store the other day and took some terrible pictures:    The V3 accessport works exactly as advertised: its the V2 with a better screen and more memory. Don't let the pictures fool you, the screen looks very good in person acting as gauges and shift light. I was not expecting the character of the engine to change so much from the stage 1 reflash though, at low throttles the ECU keeps the boost much lower than stock and it gives the car a more NA feel, almost. It gives extra power across the whole powerband rather than only at high rpms. The Cobb shifter knob is made of a milled sphere of delrin, the plastic used for rifles and has an amazing friction-less feel to it and I have an irrational love for it. I wouldn't recommend it as a performance piece for a car but I would buy it again in a heartbeat. Now I need to figure out if the Cobb catback/intake is worth getting.
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Sep 29, 2013 21:47
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My mom is thinking of getting a used MS3.  I guess she misses the MSP (my She sent me this craigslist posting, 09 for 14k. I don't see anything glaring (other than the dumb modded M logo on the back), but I thought I'd ask the resident MS3 experts here what you guys think.  (click for fullsize)
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Sep 30, 2013 04:20
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Your mom is cool. I see wheels and rally armor mudflaps. Making "280" is probably a tune.
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Sep 30, 2013 05:03
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If she buys it, I hope that her first mod is replacing the terrible shift knob. 
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Sep 30, 2013 07:58
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Martytoof posted:Any red flags to look out for on a 2002 Protege5? Running through a shopping list of cheap-ish cars to commute ~100miles a day and I really like the look of the Protege5 hatch, and they're not terribly expensive. I'd like to not resort to the lowest common denominator of a Civic or something since I have to sit in this thing 3 hours a day and I'd like to actually like looking at it for that long. Check for rust, especially on top of the shock towers , rad mounts, and suspension.
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Sep 30, 2013 12:06
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Faithiest posted:at low throttles the ECU keeps the boost much lower than stock and it gives the car a more NA feel, almost. It gives extra power across the whole powerband rather than only at high rpms. That is a funny statement to me because it suggests they tricked you into thinking you had more WOT power by creating a bigger difference between part throttle and full throttle power delivery. I'm sure that's not (all of) what happened, but i still think it's funny. And, man.. That shift knob. 
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Sep 30, 2013 14:56
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Yea that and he's kind of a dick about Gen 2's.
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Sep 30, 2013 16:23
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Yeah I kinda d at that too, personally I prefer the 1st gen also but I don't hate the looks of the 2nd, and they're hands-down no-question faster AFAIK. Mostly just kinda trying to get a feel for what's a reasonable price range for these, since if she's really serious about going through with this I want her to get a good deal on one, you know?
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Sep 30, 2013 23:43
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After hating the look of the second generation 3, I just saw a third generation sedan in person and think it looks fantastic:  Mazda's cranking out some really good looking cars these days.
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Oct 3, 2013 18:47
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It needs some kind of rocker panel extensions. The ones on the S-model 2010-2013 3s are subtle but really make the car look nicer in profile. The current Kodo design is awesome, though. It looks great on pretty much any vehicle, which is a testament to how well designed it was. The Nagare look only worked on the RX-8.
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Oct 3, 2013 19:06
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Oh my. My first gen 3 will probably be killed sometime soon, and I'm kinda pumped that this is probably what I'll be winding up in next. e:  That happened to it somewhere along the way, and man it hurts holding the shame in DeesGrandpa fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Oct 3, 2013 |
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Oct 3, 2013 19:09
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kefkafloyd posted:The Nagare look only worked on the RX-8. THAT'S why Top Gear torched the Furai! It was so beautiful it led Mazda's designers astray!
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Oct 3, 2013 19:36
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I'm excited to see a new 3 in person. DeesGrandpa posted:Oh my. My first gen 3 will probably be killed sometime soon, and I'm kinda pumped that this is probably what I'll be winding up in next. Are you driving around with your high-beams on? Or do you have a Canadian model with DRLs?
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Oct 7, 2013 11:13
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Those are the high beams, Canadian models have the DRLs in the low beam projectors.
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Oct 8, 2013 04:54
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I never paid attention to that when I'm visiting up there, I just know that Subarus use their high beams at a really low power setting so I was guessing. :P
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Oct 8, 2013 05:08
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Is there a thread better suited for tint questions? I'm not too familiar with AI, but I didn't see a thread that seemed appropriate other than maybe the detailing one... Anyway, I got my new MS3 tinted last Friday. Immediately left for camping for the weekend. When packing poo poo up, it was raining pretty bad, and I'm certain water got on the windows on the inside, but I didn't try to wipe it off since I know you're not supposed to wash the inside of the windows for a while and I didn't want to make it any worse. I'm wondering if I should try to squeegee these bulbous looking things out with a credit card now, or if they will bake out in the sun, or if I should take it back to the tint place. If it matters, this is ceramic film, inside looking out. Basically looks like magnifying dots. You can find them in/around the tree.  edit: Is there a thread/post about "stage tuning" or whatever it's called (sorry, I'm clearly new here)? Will it kill my warranties? Aexo fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 15:04
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Aexo posted:Is there a thread/post about "stage tuning" or whatever it's called (sorry, I'm clearly new here)? Will it kill my warranties? Now that you bring that up, this probably should be in the OP... http://www.edgeautosport.com/mazdaspeed-3-6-modification-guide-2006-to-current/ If you are afraid of losing warranty, I wouldn't mod unless you've got an inside contact with someone who works at a local dealership.
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Oct 10, 2013 16:34
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Got my 6 back and holy poo poo does it stink. Service guys tell me the stink of the exploding flywheel is going to stick around for a while, nothing they could really do about it without replacing the entire transmission. Yuck.
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Oct 11, 2013 05:38
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:Mazda's cranking out some really good looking cars these days. Going to try and get one this weekend...
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Oct 18, 2013 23:42
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Invicta{HOG}, M.D. posted:Going to try and get one this weekend...
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Oct 18, 2013 23:52
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