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My dad just got an '11 with 13K on the clock. He's wanting a battery tender for the winter, as he won't be able to drive it then. Would a Battery Tender Jr 12V work out fine, or should he go up to the Battery Tender Plus?
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Oct 15, 2013 01:01
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| # ? May 28, 2024 14:23 |
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Pull the battery and bring it indoors. Worked for mine.
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Oct 15, 2013 03:34
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I have these all over. I tuck them (and the cord) under the hood for the cars that sit outside. Never had a problem. $5.99 with code 47694963.
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Oct 15, 2013 07:06
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There are definitely a couple gripes about tuning MS for a turbo Miata, but most of mine center on two things. 1. MAT correction 2. Closed loop EBC. Other than that.. eh, no biggie. If you can follow instructions you'll be fine. Make sure you buy a copy of Tunerstudio.
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Oct 15, 2013 07:42
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West SAAB Story posted:
I think the idea of owning a convertible and not driving it across country is crazy. I had actually planned on driving Seattle to NY in my Miata this summer but ended up spending my vacation moving instead. Maybe next year. 8th-snype fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 08:48
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Matlock posted:My dad just got an '11 with 13K on the clock. He's wanting a battery tender for the winter, as he won't be able to drive it then. Would a Battery Tender Jr 12V work out fine, or should he go up to the Battery Tender Plus? I found a solar battery maintainer at the local Canadian Tire - 2.5W for fifteen bucks. One of my neighbors at my old place used to use it on his diesel truck in the winter - attached it to the battery and then stuck the solar panel on an east-facing window. I haven't tried it on a Miata yet but I bet it would do a pretty good job of maintaining it. They had higher end panels with more cells and more wattage but they didn't have suction cups and seemed like more of a permanent installation deal. I use the Battery Tender Plus myself as it was on sale and thus the same price as the Jr here. I have to take the battery out of the car to charge as the outlets in my house are not really helpful with this project, though. That's what the solar panel was intended to fix but I sold the car before the snow started to fall this year. FWIW, AGM batteries seem pretty resistant to sulphating. It seems like home battery recharging is kind of a black art though. link: http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...r.jsp?locale=en Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Oct 15, 2013 |
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Oct 15, 2013 21:45
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Matlock posted:My dad just got an '11 with 13K on the clock. He's wanting a battery tender for the winter, as he won't be able to drive it then. Would a Battery Tender Jr 12V work out fine, or should he go up to the Battery Tender Plus? A Jr will be just fine for maintaining an already charged battery, especially a relatively small one like a Miata battery. You can find a similar thing at Harbor Freight for $5-10, but the Deltran Tenders are the only ones I'd feel safe hooking up for an extended amount of time. Solar panels would work well too. Just be aware that a Tender of any brand/type is a slow, slow charge only for keeping good batteries from going bad, not bringing bad batteries back to good. (I work in a battery store, can you tell?)
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Oct 15, 2013 22:26
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I have this thing It's a motorcycle charger and it will charge full size car batteries from 0V dead. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...CFelAMgod9x0AFw
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Oct 15, 2013 22:38
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So I've got a '95 M edition that I absolutely love...d. Until it just died last week, working my way through things I finally realized it was beyond my capabilities and had to take it to my mechanic. And find out today that he's fairly certain it's a broken valve seat; he's estimating it at $1,500-$2,000 total to have it remachined and labor etc. Plus my roof is in a really bad way which I had been planning on, but the $900/$1,000 there. 105k miles on the car. Today Miata is not quite the best 
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Oct 16, 2013 01:34
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Get a junkyard engine for 500$. If you shop around you can find them for around 300$. Dropping a valve is incredibly rare on these engines so you should be fine with another 100K mile engine.
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Oct 16, 2013 01:52
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revmoo posted:I have this thing Looks like it's half the price at Walmart, woo. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-SpeedCharge-Battery-Maintainer-and-Charger/13005742?findingMethod=rr
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Oct 16, 2013 03:51
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1st_Panzer_Div. posted:So I've got a '95 M edition that I absolutely love...d. Until it just died last week, working my way through things I finally realized it was beyond my capabilities and had to take it to my mechanic. And find out today that he's fairly certain it's a broken valve seat; he's estimating it at $1,500-$2,000 total to have it remachined and labor etc. Plus my roof is in a really bad way which I had been planning on, but the $900/$1,000 there. 105k miles on the car. LS1 swap time. 
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Oct 16, 2013 06:33
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1st_Panzer_Div. posted:So I've got a '95 M edition that I absolutely love...d. Until it just died last week, working my way through things I finally realized it was beyond my capabilities and had to take it to my mechanic. And find out today that he's fairly certain it's a broken valve seat; he's estimating it at $1,500-$2,000 total to have it remachined and labor etc. Plus my roof is in a really bad way which I had been planning on, but the $900/$1,000 there. 105k miles on the car. Unless you completely trust your mechanic I would get a second opinion. Even if it is the valve seat, I don't see it costing that much to replace the head which I'm assuming what he was planning on doing. Still might be cheaper just to replace the whole motor anyway.
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Oct 16, 2013 06:38
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1st_Panzer_Div. posted:So I've got a '95 M edition that I absolutely love...d. Until it just died last week, working my way through things I finally realized it was beyond my capabilities and had to take it to my mechanic. And find out today that he's fairly certain it's a broken valve seat; he's estimating it at $1,500-$2,000 total to have it remachined and labor etc. Plus my roof is in a really bad way which I had been planning on, but the $900/$1,000 there. 105k miles on the car.
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Oct 16, 2013 08:43
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I'm cross posting this from the A/T recommend thread because I am looking at getting a Miata in the very near future. With out the door budget of ~10k what year band/version should I be aiming for to get the most out of my purchase? For reference: in my metro there is an 06 NC touring for sell for 10k with just shy 100k, manual soft top. You guys think that is a decent find? Dameius fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Oct 16, 2013 |
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Oct 16, 2013 15:18
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Find an 06+ in the color/options that you want. If you want to spend a little less, find an 01-05 that has been garaged and we'll taken care of for about 7 to 8k.
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Oct 16, 2013 15:32
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Has anybody actually ever put a 1.6 into an NB? I would consider that substantial evidence of mental illness. You could buy a brand new 1.6 liter NB from dealerships from 1998 to 2005. e: oh poo poo another page, since when does this thread get more than 4 posts a week. Hey look i bought a thing (The red thing, obviously) 
MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Oct 16, 2013 |
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Oct 16, 2013 15:41
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Dameius posted:I'm cross posting this from the A/T recommend thread because I am looking at getting a Miata in the very near future. With out the door budget of ~10k what year band/version should I be aiming for to get the most out of my purchase? Listen to Phone and Leica. They probably give the best Miata related advice in this thread. Edit: I just bought an '06 GT with 59K on the clock for $10K (after shipping and dealer fees). Now if it would just get here already... Rhyno fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Oct 16, 2013 |
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Oct 16, 2013 16:06
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Has the timing belt ever been done? That seems more likely.
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Oct 16, 2013 16:08
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NC's MZR has a chain since it's not a Japanese iron block from the 80's.
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Oct 16, 2013 16:13
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1st_Panzer_Div. posted:So I've got a '95 M edition that I absolutely love...d. Until it just died last week, working my way through things I finally realized it was beyond my capabilities and had to take it to my mechanic. And find out today that he's fairly certain it's a broken valve seat; he's estimating it at $1,500-$2,000 total to have it remachined and labor etc. Plus my roof is in a really bad way which I had been planning on, but the $900/$1,000 there. 105k miles on the car. Sounds like 01 swap time to me. Seriously though, like every one else said, you can get a whole motors used for $500 or so.
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Oct 16, 2013 20:21
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1st_Panzer_Div. posted:So I've got a '95 M edition that I absolutely love...d. Until it just died last week, working my way through things I finally realized it was beyond my capabilities and had to take it to my mechanic. And find out today that he's fairly certain it's a broken valve seat; he's estimating it at $1,500-$2,000 total to have it remachined and labor etc. Plus my roof is in a really bad way which I had been planning on, but the $900/$1,000 there. 105k miles on the car. Are you sure it isn't just a broken timing belt? 100k miles is the right time for that to happen.
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Oct 16, 2013 21:11
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I have not done the timing belt, I'll look into that next. And it sounds like at the very least a 2nd opinion if that's not it, although it will not currently drive, so that means a tow. Edit: Not the timing belt for sures. 1st_Panzer_Div. fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 16, 2013 22:00
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Pull the valve cover and turn the crank over with a 21mm bolt. It'll be pretty obvious.
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Oct 16, 2013 22:54
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You could give it a compression test easily enough. If one of the cylinders tests very low (probably zero), your mechanic was right. If all the cylinders test out ok he was full of poo poo. [edit] Wait a minute though, even if a valve seat was "broken" in one of the cylinders the motor could still run, right? I just don't know what the hell this guy means by "broken valve seat". Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Oct 17, 2013 |
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Oct 17, 2013 03:22
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Do any of you have your miata back fire out the intake? Ive only had it happen 2-3 times in the ownership of my miata (about a year and a half). It typically happens if I rev the motor with no load, like about to have to pull out into traffic and giving it some revs before I let the clutch out. Normal causes I read for backfires dont seem like what would cause this. Is this something I should worry about?
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Oct 17, 2013 20:25
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Sadi posted:Do any of you have your miata back fire out the intake? Ive only had it happen 2-3 times in the ownership of my miata (about a year and a half). It typically happens if I rev the motor with no load, like about to have to pull out into traffic and giving it some revs before I let the clutch out. Normal causes I read for backfires dont seem like what would cause this. Is this something I should worry about? I've had back/missfires. No idea which end it comes out. It's rare, but it happens under the same conditions you described. Playing with the revs with no load, get a pop, shrug and keep driving. I used to attribute it to an exhaust leak or something. Maybe try new plugs/wires?
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Oct 17, 2013 20:37
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It does happen, but unless if you're running a 3D printed intake that's been specifically tuned for maximum power, it really isn't an issue?
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Oct 17, 2013 20:46
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I've only had one Miata backfire out the intake and it was about 10 minutes before the CAS completely stopped sending a signal anymore. Maybe check your timing/probe the CAS to make sure it's still within spec?
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Oct 18, 2013 01:46
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 I put a racing seat in my Miata, it was also a nice day for a photo
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Oct 21, 2013 06:05
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It's here! 2006 GT with 59K on the clock. Loving the poo poo out of this so far.
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Oct 21, 2013 23:47
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How can I figure out a fair ballpark price for an NB Miata, 160k miles, LSD, no rust? A friend of mine needs a car and I'd rather error on the side of too cheap, but running it on KBB says that it's a $1500 car and I swear that sounds low.
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Oct 22, 2013 20:19
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$1,500 would be a total steal. Up north that would go for at least $3,000. Does it have any issues, is the car bare bones or specced out? I bought my 97' NA, rusted to poo poo with 200k and salvage title and I feel like I won a jackpot.
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Oct 22, 2013 21:11
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Voltage posted:$1,500 would be a total steal. Up north that would go for at least $3,000. Does it have any issues, is the car bare bones or specced out? Car is bare bones but maintained. Has A/C, CD player, tape deck, but cloth seats. Top is 6 months old but somebody slashed it, I'm willing to replace it for $500. Right now it's watertight with black duct tape, if I keep the car I'm probably doing some sort of ghetto repair until the top is at least a year old before replacing it again. Mechanically solid.
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Oct 22, 2013 21:15
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I'd put that on CL as-is for $4k and probably sell it within a week for drat near asking price, without replacing the top. KBB is becoming increasingly useless for Miatas - just look on Craigslist and Autotrader and see what people in your area are actually listing them for. You won't find many NBs below $4k even in rough shape. Edit: I looked since posting this. Locally on CL the only NB at $4k sounds a lot like yours, except no slashed top, plus a proper rollbar, but intermittent CEL and misfire and a torn seat. None listed below that price. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Oct 22, 2013 |
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Oct 22, 2013 21:17
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OMG the new Miata is here!!! http://www.autoblog.com/2013/10/23/mazda-mx-5-miata-alfa-romeo-spy-shots/
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Oct 23, 2013 19:51
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Phone posted:OMG the new Miata is here!!! It's ground-breaking! What a unique design!
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Oct 23, 2013 20:08
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Rhyno, get your former terrible neighborhood children to transform your NC into the ND mule.
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Oct 23, 2013 21:43
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I hope longer and wider does not = 3000lbs.
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Oct 23, 2013 23:00
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| # ? May 28, 2024 14:23 |
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It's auto journalism so whatever the words are saying that isn't an Official Press Release can be safely ignored. Auto journos are cut from the same cloth as Fox News journalists.
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Oct 24, 2013 03:56
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