|
I'll check the tires again tomorrow for pressure, but they seem fine. This happened once on my way up to the mountains so I took it real slow and pulled over and it all looked ok and it cleared itself up before I even stopped. After that it was fine all through riding it yesterday and today until this evening. Could something with the gas moving around the tank cause this? I can't come up with a series of things that led up to it that match since it's only happened twice. Either time I topped up gas about 10-25 miles before (but haven't noticed it after other fillups). When it happened today, I held throttle and the bike steady straight and it still did it. I rolled on the throttle a bit and the bike rev'd smoothly with no hiccups, even while the sound and action was happening. If I had a bicycle, I'd swear it was a rear tire gone quickly flat, or a loose front or rear wheel, but this isn't a bicycle and neither of those would "clear up" within a minute. For what it's worth I've grabbed both wheels and moved them side to side to find any slop. Thanks for the help.
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2013 03:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 11:20 |
|
|
Coydog posted:I'll check the tires again tomorrow for pressure, but they seem fine. This happened once on my way up to the mountains so I took it real slow and pulled over and it all looked ok and it cleared itself up before I even stopped. After that it was fine all through riding it yesterday and today until this evening. Could something with the gas moving around the tank cause this? I can't come up with a series of things that led up to it that match since it's only happened twice. Either time I topped up gas about 10-25 miles before (but haven't noticed it after other fillups). I feel like you are describing two independent things that I also experience on my sv650: 1. Even though the tires are correctly filled it feels like you are "drifting" in a turn like you would if you had a mostly flat tire on a bicycle. 2. Occasionally the bike stutters or backfires or something along those lines. I've heard something about wet spark plugs causing this in first gen sv650s, but I'm not sure.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 01:36
|
|
|
Coydog posted:I have what I hope is a simple dumb question. When I'm riding the sv, sometimes I'll hear a fairly loud SPLOIURCH! repeatedly accompanied by the bike wiggling back and forth. the sensation is that of a tire going flat and slipping around, and it gives me such a spook I can't pin down where its coming from other than "below me". This is different from the gas vent whistle, which I haven't really heard much. after a couple minutes it settles back down and rides normally. What is happening? Should I be worried? I have only been riding since Friday so I don't know things. It kind of sounds like your axle isn't tightened down, and it's shifting putting the rear wheel out of alignment. If i'm right you probably died when your rear wheel fell off. RIP Edit: It's not happening on a specific section of road is it? I know I've thought I had a flat only to find that it was the bike sliding around on all the dirt on the road.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 03:21
|
|
|
Can you get the rear wheel in the air and wiggle the wheel and the swingarm? It sounds pretty serious.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 12:00
|
|
|
Look around the swingarm to make sure the rear tire is not rubbing on anything. The sound you are describing sounds like an out of alignment belt on belt driven bikes. Considering yours is chain driven, and the bike is becoming unsettled makes me think something is loose/rubbing in the rear. You don't have a fender eliminator that places the tag close to the tire do you?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 13:41
|
|
|
I checked rear tire pressure and I was 30psi hot with a max of 42 hot. I don't have anything that can lift the bike yet, but grabbing the rear tire and moving it back and forth it seemed pretty solid. the tire isn't rubbing against anything. When this issue happened last time, I looked down at the rear tire And it did not look like it was flopping all over. below is a picture of the swing arm on the right side where it attaches. hard to see, but there is some exposed threading just on that side. don't know if it means anything though. why would this only come up SOMETIMES if these parts were really loose?  Second question. This n model had the stupid looking tiny front cowl around the gauges removed. I think it looks better that way but the wiring plug that goes into the gauges is now exposed. is that plug sealed or am I going to have shorting issues when I drive in the rain? 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 20:22
|
|
|
30PSI is low. You should pump the rear to around 36 cold, front should be at least 34 cold. Both of those can cause some weird behavior as you hit different types of pavement, so pump those up and see if it goes away. Yes, you should add some electrical tape or something to keep water out of htat connector.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 20:53
|
|
|
Whatever you cover that with, use some dielectric silicone as well. In fact, use it anytime you connect electrical components together (wires, terminals, spark plug boots, etc). It helps keep water out and will prevent corrosion and rust.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 21:44
|
|
|
Z3n and TJONES- great ideas. I hope it's this simple. I pumped the tire up more (it alarmed me too) and will get the front soon. For the gauges, I'll cover that up before I drive in the rain. I'm thinking an HDR skirt around the bottom would look good and work. I'll definitively put some dielectric grease in there. Z3n or anyone who might know best- My rear shock is adjusted at the highest possible notch. I've been told I should back it off since I weigh 150lb, but I don't know how far or what tools to use. It rides ok right now and I dont want to mess with the front shock spring, but I don't know what's good and haven't pushed it in corners yet. What do you think?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 23:11
|
|
|
Coydog posted:Z3n and TJONES- great ideas. I hope it's this simple. I pumped the tire up more (it alarmed me too) and will get the front soon. What do you mean at "The highest possible notch"? It's probably fine if it's a stock spring cause they're notoriously undersprung.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 23:18
|
|
|
Coydog posted:Z3n and TJONES- great ideas. I hope it's this simple. I pumped the tire up more (it alarmed me too) and will get the front soon. Look in the tool kit under the seat, there should be a specific tool to adjust it. Mine is a spanner.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 23:45
|
|
|
HenryJLittlefinger posted:Look in the tool kit under the seat, there should be a specific tool to adjust it. Mine is a spanner. Yup, my SV definitely had a claw spanner for the rear shock.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 23:51
|
|
|
Z3n posted:What do you mean at "The highest possible notch"? It's probably fine if it's a stock spring cause they're notoriously undersprung. I had the rear shock at max preload for my fat rear end. I told him it would probably be a good idea to back off the preload since he's a reasonable weight. Agree/disagree?
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2013 23:59
|
|
|
Coredump posted:I had the rear shock at max preload for my fat rear end. I told him it would probably be a good idea to back off the preload since he's a reasonable weight. Agree/disagree? Is it a stock shock? Normally, yes, you'd back off the preload, but the stock SV spring is rated for like 120 pounds so more preload just helps you avoid bottoming. If it's not harsh (which it's probably not cause it's so undersprung...) then I wouldn't be concerned about it. The real way to try and set it right would be to set preload and adjust accordingly (only to discover it's impossible to get it set right because the spring is so soft).
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 00:48
|
|
|
Coydog posted:Below is a picture of the swing arm on the right side where it attaches. hard to see, but there is some exposed threading just on that side. don't know if it means anything though. why would this only come up SOMETIMES if these parts were really loose? Is this a picture of a missing swingarm bushing? Loose swingarm nut? I don't really know these bikes that well. If either of these things, though, it's certainly possible for the swingarm to be loose laterally and just wander about normally, but sometimes shift that quarter- or half-inch and unsettle the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 02:23
|
|
|
It doesn't look like anything is missing to me, and you'd notice play at the wheel.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 03:48
|
|
|
Quick technique question: Since my rebel has a rear drum brake and a single front disc brake, when I upgrade to a new bike will the better braking destroy me if I do what I do now? I pretty much always put medium pressure on rear brake and gently squeeze the front brake until it makes contact.
Sharkopath fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Oct 18, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 03:52
|
|
|
Sharkopath posted:Quick technique question: Since my rebel has a rear drum brake and a single front disc brake, when I upgrade to a new bike will the better braking destroy me if I do what I do now? I pretty much always put medium pressure on rear brake and gently squeeze the front brake until it makes contact. Depends on the bike. You're meant to apply front brake first; on a not-poo poo bike the rear brake usually contributes very little to meaningful braking. Most people generally seem to only use the front brake 90% of the time, with the rear being used for low speed manuevering and hill holds and such. In my experience, the bigger the bike (provided it isn't a cruiser), the less useful the rear is and the easier it locks up under hard braking. The brakes on your rebel are utterly useless and you'll find that when you switch to a larger/more modern bike the amount of braking available, even on an ordinary bike, will blow your mind.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 04:20
|
|
|
Sharkopath posted:Quick technique question: Since my rebel has a rear drum brake and a single front disc brake, when I upgrade to a new bike will the better braking destroy me if I do what I do now? I pretty much always put medium pressure on rear brake and gently squeeze the front brake until it makes contact. That's about what I do with the Buell and its rear disc nonbrake. Depends on the bike though. My vstar would lock the rear wheel easily that way.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 04:57
|
|
|
http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442220 How terrible of an idea is this for a cheap-rear end trackbike by selling the bar setup and stuffing stock clipons back on. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 05:12
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=442220 Not a bad idea but it's already sold, haha.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 05:28
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Not a bad idea but it's already sold, haha. I posted after the second guy saying he was buying it, said I'd buy it if that Matty dude fell through, and the seller and I exchanged phone numbers. I hope that other dude doesn't come through. Hahaha.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 05:31
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:I posted after the second guy saying he was buying it, said I'd buy it if that Matty dude fell through, and the seller and I exchanged phone numbers. I hope that other dude doesn't come through. Hahaha. Thats close enough you should just buy z3ns daytona track bike.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 17:11
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:Thats close enough you should just buy z3ns daytona track bike. Never possible for it to be street legal in CA again 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 17:32
|
|
|
He stated cheap-rear end-trackbike. So who cares about title?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 17:39
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:He stated cheap-rear end-trackbike. So who cares about title? Oooh, I was fixating on the "riding it home" part.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 17:50
|
|
|
Spiffness posted:He stated cheap-rear end-trackbike. So who cares about title? Yeahhh, trackbike with a title is what I'm looking for. I can get away with a brake light only here in Az for occasional canyon days.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2013 20:46
|
|
|
Its been bothering me long enough that I'm finally gonna do something about it even if it ends up not being the problem. So: What are some HOT PRO CARBURETOR CLEANING TIPS FOR PROFESSIONALS since I've never done that before. Or like, any supplies/specific cleaners I should go get before I start. edit: CMX250C so single carb bike. Sharkopath fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Oct 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 03:32
|
|
|
Disassemble everything. Take the rubber away. Boil remaining parts in a pine-sol mix. Everything means everything.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 03:50
|
|
|
Sharkopath posted:Its been bothering me long enough that I'm finally gonna do something about it even if it ends up not being the problem. So: What are some HOT PRO CARBURETOR CLEANING TIPS FOR PROFESSIONALS since I've never done that before. Or like, any supplies/specific cleaners I should go get before I start. Have you just tried Seafoaming it first? Then you can pull the carb and carb cleaner the gently caress out of it. Then you can do ^^^^ or have it ultrasonically cleaned.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 04:22
|
|
|
thylacine posted:Have you just tried Seafoaming it first? Then you can pull the carb and carb cleaner the gently caress out of it. Then you can do ^^^^ or have it ultrasonically cleaned. Yeah I seafoamed it through about a tank and a half, helped a little but not much. Throttle would choke and sputter constantly and randomly before, now it only does it at higher revs in the low gears (after third its fine until you hit around 55-60). Maybe its not the carb though and just my dumb rear end messing up the choke? the one time I had it running perfectly recently was a cold (for florida) morning where I ran the engine full choke for maybe five minutes down the road and lowered it slowly until it was all the way down, no weird power problems at all. I've been messing with the choke since then to try to replicate that, but no dice.  edit: it's also a bike that was sitting for extended period of time. The dude who taught me to ride gave it to me as a gift and otherwise never really used it, so I've put more time on it these months than it had seen in years. Sharkopath fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Oct 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 04:46
|
|
|
You need to clean the pilot jet, and even boiling might not do it. Run a guitar string or small piece of wire through the pilot jet. You could leave everything else totally dirty and just clean the pilot jet and A/F screw and it's likely the thing would run perfectly after that - but you might as well do the main jet while you're in there.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 04:57
|
|
|
You could also just replace the pilot jet for probably $4
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 06:58
|
|
|
Yeah but that doesn't bring instant gratification, which is half the point of carb cleaning.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 15:11
|
|
|
You'll want to replace the float bowl gasket while you have it apart. Check the boot, diaphragm, and any other non-metal parts thoroughly. Look up the appropriate float height and set it to spec. I like using one of those paint can-style parts dips with the basket that you can get at most autoclones. It's good for other stuff later. Also, your screws will all be stuck, so hit them with some penetrating oil before you start. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Oct 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 16:37
|
|
|
Am I walking in to a trap getting a used throttle body for my '07 bandit 1250? A sensor in my throttle body is throwing errors like mardi gras beads. Either it's a hosed sensor requiring a new throttle body or there's a crappy connection somewhere. I've got a mechanic trying to find out if it's a lovely wire and in the mean time I'm shopping for a new-to-me body if that is going to have to happen. I got a scary quote from the mechanic of ~€3000 for a new one (based on the new one he had to buy/install for a yamaha), but when I look around I can find a new one for €1500 and used around €200. That's massive savings over the guesstimated €3000. (although that could be including labor, I'm not sure)
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 17:18
|
|
|
Can you buy a used one from wrecker that has a money back guarantee? You should be able to buy your various sensors individually so probably don't even need a whole throttle body assembly. It might be worthwhile getting a true shop manual (if you don't have one already) so you can troubleshoot the sensor(s) first.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 17:31
|
|
|
These days, most of the sensors on the throttle bodies are calibrated at the factory and removal renders them useless Electrical problems can have a lot of sources...I'd want to check all the grounds, battery, wiring harness integrity, etc, before replacing parts. And 3k seems insane...it's going to take him 10 hours to change out throttle bodies?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 17:44
|
|
|
I was too pissed to listen clearly to his ramblings unfortunately. I'm going to have to talk to the mechanic then to see if he really meant throttle bodies, or another piece with a gooey sensor inside. I'm a bit confused as well, there was talk about a second(ary) sensor, but also one that measures tdc, and then proceeded to try to dry the sensor marked in the attachment? Bottom line, first thing tuesday I'm going to ring him up and clear up this confusion. Thanks for the info, dudes! You are the best.  slidebite posted:Can you buy a used one from wrecker that has a money back guarantee? You should be able to buy your various sensors individually so probably don't even need a whole throttle body assembly. Bike's at the shop! But it's a good idea to find out what I need to do the diagnosis myself, if only for the education. To google! karms fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Oct 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 18:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 11:20 |
|
|
The screws holding the throttle mounting to the carb are rounded out/deformed and I don't have anything to pull them out with. Hooray! At least I got past step 2 before I had to go run back to the mechanic. as a question: Is it always a bad idea to do financing on a bike as opposed to paying full value cash? I've seen plenty of posts discouraging it. Also buying new instead of used. Sharkopath fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Oct 19, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2013 19:50
|
|