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Geoj posted:Sounds like it came with the software installed then? As suggested above, running it through gparted may let you access/erase the hidden partition with the software installed on it, but yeah - USB 2.0 thumb drives are ridiculously cheap so it might be easier to just pick up a new one, especially if you have a retailer like Microcenter or Fry's within reasonable driving distance. Yeah I received it when I did some work for a pharma company that was big on data security, once I left they didn't ask for it back and it's been sitting in a drawer ever since. Thought I'd put it to use by connecting it to my TV so I can watch videos transferred from my PC. I'm in the UK but am sure I can pick up a 16GB for £10 or so.
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Oct 19, 2013 22:21
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Lady Gaza posted:Apologies if this isn't the right place to ask, but couldn't see any other relevant short question threads. I have a USB stick with security software installed (Integral Total Lock); I'd like to remove this software so the stick is completely clean. I have the password. Any ideas? I've searched around but couldn't see anything helpful. The stick's vendor's site might have a tool that'll let you get rid of that junk. I know Maxell provides a tool to get rid of the security junk on their sticks, at least.
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Oct 19, 2013 23:27
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You could try wiping the drive with dban, although if it's like 512MB or something it's probably not worth the effort.
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Oct 19, 2013 23:46
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I've noticed my computer is gradually becoming louder the last couple of weeks/months. The case in question is 10 years old, one of those large lian li aluminum ones. I think the last time I upgraded the hardware on this machine was around 2010. Other than the noise I've had no issues which makes me think its not the power supply. Could the fans on the actual case be the cause?
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Oct 20, 2013 18:17
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Senor P. posted:I've noticed my computer is gradually becoming louder the last couple of weeks/months. An easy way to check is to run with an open case and then temporarily stopping a fan by sticking a piece of plastic or wood in there gently. Make sure you don't stop them for too long and give them a push if they don't spin up again after you remove your object.
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Oct 20, 2013 18:20
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Check for dust inside the case too, since if the CPU and/or videocard fans are clogged with dust they will spin faster to compensate which can make things noisier.
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Oct 20, 2013 19:48
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I have an empty external Lacie hard drive lying around. The internal connector is SATA. Ignoring any physical concerns, would it be possible to connect an optical drive to the enclosure and hack together an external optical drive, or might the controller inside the enclosure be specific to a hard drive?
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Oct 21, 2013 01:49
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^ Did the external enclosure originally house a 2.5" drive? If so it won't meet the power requirements of a normal 5.25" optical drive.
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Oct 21, 2013 03:35
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Geoj posted:^ a_pineapple fucked around with this message at 05:06 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 05:04
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I'm not sure where to posit the issue but I was having issues with a HD5750 where the system would lock up entirely, and I think it was because I tried overclocking it. I later tried to uninstall the beta drivers and install the more stable ones, but that just resulted in getting blue screens. The computer would randomly hard lock up after a certain period of time. Now, I did a clean install of 8.1 and am using now an HD5550. However I'm getting what looks like terrible refresh issues on one monitor frequently, and once in a while the second monitor which is connected via HDMI (main monitor is DVI) will refresh. What is my issue? Is it just my monitor being a cheap old piece of poo poo or what?
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Oct 21, 2013 17:19
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GreenBuckanneer posted:What is my issue? Is it just my monitor being a cheap old piece of poo poo or what?
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Oct 21, 2013 17:26
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What's a good external HD that works for both Mac (Time Machine, specifically) and Windows? I only asked because I recently saw one on sale that said it worked with both, and cited Time Machine compatibility. I'm ultimately curious if that's just a gimmick, or if I should be looking for a hard drive that can support both.
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Oct 21, 2013 20:07
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Alereon posted:Install the latest Beta drivers, never use release drivers on AMD videocards (they don't incorporate needed fixes). This is exactly the kind of issue expected from using release drivers. Installed latest Beta Drivers. No change. Removed the dvi cable and went straight to VGA. No change. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 22:31
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My laptop seems to boot twice. It displays the BIOS image, plays the little startup jingle, then repeats the process over and starts Windows the second time. It hasn't always done this, but it has been going on for well over a year without any other apparent issues. What could cause this, and is it something to worry about? Also, running CrystalDiskInfo returns a G-Sense Error Rate raw value of 51F (1311) and a Load/Unload Cycle Count of 9D771 (644977, which I understand to be high for a laptop a bit under two years old). The health status is still showing good, and none of the typical trouble categories are showing anything but 0. I have taken it more long drives than I probably should have, but always packed tightly in a case. Is this going to cause any performance issues, and should I be worried about imminent failure if it gets bumped the wrong way? e: Image because why not 
AreWeDrunkYet fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Oct 21, 2013 |
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Oct 21, 2013 23:12
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Assuming your hard drive is not losing data it is probably fine. Load/Unload Cycle Count can get absurdly high on laptop and/or green hard drives and G-Sense, at least on your drive, is probably miscalibrated in heavy favor of false positives, although we'd need to know how you've been handling/transporting it to say for sure. Check your event viewer right after one of these double boots for weirdness.
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Oct 21, 2013 23:33
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXN-8nh8WOY I took a video of my issue. Excuse my dog snoring in the background.
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Oct 22, 2013 00:56
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Sir Unimaginative posted:Check your event viewer right after one of these double boots for weirdness. Thanks! Turns out the computer wasn't liking the generic Bluetooth adapter I was using. Plugged it in, didn't end up using it for reasons, and haven't paid it any mind since. Issue went away immediately once I booted without it.
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Oct 22, 2013 01:18
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Stumpus posted:What's a good external HD that works for both Mac (Time Machine, specifically) and Windows? I only asked because I recently saw one on sale that said it worked with both, and cited Time Machine compatibility. I'm ultimately curious if that's just a gimmick, or if I should be looking for a hard drive that can support both. I'm not familiar with Time Machine, but presumably to work with both Mac and Windows you just need to format the drive using a filesystem they can both read. So long as you're using Win XP SP3 or later and OSX 10.6.5 or later then format it as exFAT and you'll be fine. Failing that you'll need to use FAT32 or a third-party program on either the Mac or PC that will read whatever filesystem you decided on instead.
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Oct 22, 2013 05:19
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2 days ago I emailed Intel about an L2 related Machine Check Exception BSOD I got with my new i5 4670K and got the RMA information this morning. From what I've read they expect me to pay for shipping it back to them? Should I press them a bit on that? They seem to be pushing toward using UPS which is even more expensive. I asked the store I bought it from and they won't let me exchange it either so unless a miracle happens I'll be out the  for shipping as well as be without a computer for a while.
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Oct 23, 2013 01:31
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I have two wireless peripherals hooked up to my desktop PC.
I want to buy a third wireless peripheral for my desktop PC. I don't want to buy a forth. Also, the lovely reception is due to the fact that my wireless router is sitting a few rooms away and up some stairs in a room with the cable modem that is not actually part of my apartment, so I can't just run an Ethernet cable. What would be nice is if I could simply run a wire from the back of my PC to the closest corner of my apartment so I can get better reception. Or would a wireless repeater be a better option?
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Oct 23, 2013 01:52
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PS. Love the cabin posted:2 days ago I emailed Intel about an L2 related Machine Check Exception BSOD I got with my new i5 4670K and got the RMA information this morning. Edit: Yeah that's almost certainly a memory or motherboard issue. Proceed with normal troubleshooting (run memory diagnostics, adjust timings/frequency, etc) or post a Haus thread using the template. Alereon fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Oct 23, 2013 |
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Oct 23, 2013 05:47
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That's what I deducted from googling the exact machine check exception that came up, some people have had problems with Haswell chips doing the same thing. Machine check exception was GCACHEL2_ERR_ERR. It's not overclocked and everything is at defaults in the bios. That's why my first thought was to email Intel support asking if it was likely a hardware fault. They first responded by asking for all the information on the CPU box and once I sent that the next thing I got was an RMA number. I'm just a bit annoyed that they're looking for me to pay for something that came defective. So far the BSOD has only happened once but the nature of it makes me think it's not going to just go away. I've got 60 days while the RMA is open, I'm not sure if it's worth opening a support thread here or not.
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Oct 23, 2013 05:57
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PS. Love the cabin posted:I'm just a bit annoyed that they're looking for me to pay for something that came defective. This is literally how practically every RMA I have ever dealt with works - you ship them the defective part at your expense and they ship you a replacement at their expense. Agreeing with the above. If you want to do some testing run a Prime95 stress test on your processor. If it makes it past 12 hours without an error the problem lies somewhere else.
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Oct 23, 2013 06:09
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It survived over 12 hours of prime and never went above 69c. Isn't it hard to believe the fault is elsewhere when the machine check exception is raised by the processor itself?
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Oct 23, 2013 19:15
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PS. Love the cabin posted:It survived over 12 hours of prime and never went above 69c. If you've got the RMA, I'd probably go with it, but don't be overly shocked if you see the error again. In custom-building approx. 10k machines over a few years at the small shop I worked at, we had one DoA processor (which may have been a build-screwup or who knows what), and one processor die within warranty. They die very, very rarely (when not overclocking the bag off of them). My inclination would be motherboard, but it could be the processor. And the shop you bought it at sucks if they won't help you out - frustrates me when shops won't backup the product they sell (pet peeve, hahah)
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Oct 23, 2013 22:57
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PS. Love the cabin posted:It survived over 12 hours of prime and never went above 69c.
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Oct 24, 2013 00:23
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I was trying to remove my video card to clean it out when my fat fingers accidentally snapped off the little plastic tab that you press on to give it wiggle room to remove. Am I now stuck with this card forever, or is there some way a shop could remove the card / replace the slot on the motherboard? (The computer and card are both about three years old now, so I know it may be cheaper to just buy a new computer.)
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Oct 24, 2013 02:02
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Simon Draskovic posted:I was trying to remove my video card to clean it out when my fat fingers accidentally snapped off the little plastic tab that you press on to give it wiggle room to remove. Am I now stuck with this card forever, or is there some way a shop could remove the card / replace the slot on the motherboard? (The computer and card are both about three years old now, so I know it may be cheaper to just buy a new computer.)
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Oct 24, 2013 02:07
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So I'm thinking that my Samsung SSD died due to stress from power fluctuations by an AC unit turning on and causing power "sags", would I be wrong in thinking this? Also, would it be worth getting a beefier surge protector or even going all the way to crazy town and getting myself a UPS? If so, what should I look for in one for a system that uses a 600 watt power supply + 2 monitors?
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Oct 24, 2013 02:51
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SomedoodIV posted:So I'm thinking that my Samsung SSD died due to stress from power fluctuations by an AC unit turning on and causing power "sags", would I be wrong in thinking this? I don't plug any PC hardware I care about directly into the wall. A 1000-1200VA AVR UPS is gonna run you 130-150 bucks and you should definitely get one if your power is a concern. My UPSes all click on to boost voltage when the AC starts up.
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Oct 24, 2013 03:28
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SomedoodIV posted:So I'm thinking that my Samsung SSD died due to stress from power fluctuations by an AC unit turning on and causing power "sags", would I be wrong in thinking this?
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Oct 24, 2013 03:31
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Alereon posted:Yes this is a pretty significant leap. Any modern power supply doesn't care about dips in the input voltage, it can handle anything from ~90-250V. If you are worried about power quality look to your power supply first, if you have some old or low-end model with a 120/240V switch or efficiency below 80+ Bronze you should probably get a new good quality power supply. A new surge protector is likely a good investment if yours is old or off-brand, but don't go nuts. UPSes are generally not a very good investment because to work with modern power supplies you either need to get a relatively expensive high-quality model that puts out a true sine-wive, or to get one with an output power AT LEAST twice the MAXIMUM expected draw of your attached devices, which also gets expensive. Putting a lower-end UPS between you and the wall is more like a reduction in power quality than an improvement. Thanks, the psu I'm using now is either gold or platinum rated I believe, its more then likely the power surge protector I'm using. "Good enough" for my old non-ssd rig isn't good enough for a sensitive little ssd then. In fact now that i think of it the power surge protector I"m using doesn't even have any watt/voltage protection information on it..?
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Oct 24, 2013 03:41
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SomedoodIV posted:Thanks, the psu I'm using now is either gold or platinum rated I believe, its more then likely the power surge protector I'm using. "Good enough" for my old non-ssd rig isn't good enough for a sensitive little ssd then. In fact now that i think of it the power surge protector I"m using doesn't even have any watt/voltage protection information on it..?
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Oct 24, 2013 05:46
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I have a stereo hooked up to my computer with two mid sized speakers. It seems that some sounds are displayed more clearly on the left speaker than the right speaker and some sounds aren't displayed clearly on both. I thought this could be a speaker problem but when I disconnect the stereo and just use the TV for sound the same thing happens. Is this a hardware issue or could it be a software one?
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Oct 26, 2013 02:49
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My new computer won't stay on for more than ~30 seconds  .i7-4770S cpu on a GA-Q87M-D2H motherboard with a Noctua cooler. Four sticks of Crucial Ballistix Sport for memory, and a Seasonic SSR-450RM PSU all in a Bitfenix Phenom case (stay away!!). I have removed all hard disks and disconnected all motherboard headers except for the power button. I can *sometimes* get it to turn on and go into the bios for a moment or two, but then it will seem to reset and go into a loop of the fans spinning up for a moment, then stopping, then spinning, etc, over and over until I pull the plug. Sometimes it goes into this loop as soon as I turn it on. Also, the whole time it is in this loop, the PSU fan seems to be constantly on. I have reseated the memory and the CPU/cooler are seemingly mounted perfectly... it is kinda a hard thing to gently caress up? If this were something shorting, it wouldn't turn on sometimes, would it? What have I done wrong here? edit: It seems to be working when not in the case and with a single stick of memory :/ other people fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 16:35
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Associate Christ
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tcp ip fanfic posted:I have two wireless peripherals hooked up to my desktop PC. If all else fails, you can get a directional antenna to try to boost your adapter's signal. I used a Hawking directional antenna at my old house and it worked alright, at least for 2.4ghz N speeds. Kaluza-Klein posted:If this were something shorting, it wouldn't turn on sometimes, would it? What have I done wrong here?
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Oct 26, 2013 18:08
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GreenBuckanneer posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXN-8nh8WOY Your problems might not be identical to mine, but they are strikingly similar.
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Oct 26, 2013 18:51
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BITCOIN MINING RIG posted:You're using the case standoffs, right? Does it stay running with 1 stick installed when in the case? The board may have a bad memory slot. The standoffs are all in the correct place. Everything works fine now that I have it back in the case. Who knows. In other news, the new hard disk failed a SMART self-assessment right out of the box :/. Thank god amazon makes returns so painless.
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Oct 26, 2013 21:41
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Looking for a 2-4 bay external enclosure for a few hard drives. Need to know what is highly recommended at a decent price? Been looking around, and I really can't decided on any of them due to never having to have one. Could be NAS, just not something that will kill my wallet. And last thing is, I have a Seagate Free Agent GoFlex, and I highly like the feature of it only powering on when the PC is actually turned, instead of there being a switch on the back of the drive to turn it on and off.
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Oct 26, 2013 22:21
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I want to have a fair bit of HD space since I lend movies and never get them back (gotta keep those special features and custom menus,) and don't fully trust my backups/DVD-Rs in folders to last as long with regards to bang & buck. Is it true, as I've been discovering from word-of-mouth that even the fresh Seagates in general have a higher DOA rate the larger you go regardless of make and model? From what I've been gathering, the 4TB are less trustworthy than the 2TB, so it would be better to stick a pair of 2TB Barracudas in a system than a pair of 4TB. Is this true? I see a lot of talk and it's all scary. Such as 1) Manufacturer - some makers are having more problems than others with the highest density disks2) 4K Sectors - WDC is using these on some of their drives and, in theory, the better ECC can lower the uncorrectable error rate by 1/100. 3) Platter density and number of platters - The higher the density, the tougher it is to make reliable disks. Additional platters probably also affect reliability. There's likely a tradeoff in reliability between higher density platters and the number of platters. Alereon posted:There is no statistically significant mechanical reliability difference between brand and capacity for internal HDDs, though Seagate has had a history of issues with their drive firmware and external drives (overheating). Keep in mind that two 2TB HDDs will necessarily double the chance that you will experience a drive failure. What, how? Not to nitpick but wouldn't the failure rate per drive stay the same? 2TB drives aren't more failure prone because they're 2TB, they're more failure prone because they use so many platters - all manufacturers to my knowledge use 500GB platters to achieve 2TB, meaning 4 platters. Paradox Personified fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 22:38
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SoroScrew