|
Personally, having ridden them both, the sv and the f4i are pretty evenly matched, performance-wise. On the track, the f4i will have the edge as it makes more power and has more aggressive suspension and geometry, and on the street, an f4i may as well be an i4 sv and the sv may as well be a v-twin f4i. Honestly it should probably come down to whether your local track is more suited to one or the other.
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 02:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:10 |
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Personally, having ridden them both, the sv and the f4i are pretty evenly matched, performance-wise. On the track, the f4i will have the edge as it makes more power and has more aggressive suspension and geometry, and on the street, an f4i may as well be an i4 sv and the sv may as well be a v-twin f4i. F4i is about 30 HP up on the SV and will be a much more enjoyable track bike, most of it's power advantage is up in the rev range which you will get into on a track for sure. I had a ghetto rear end 2001 as my first track bike back in the day. The only issue with the F4i is the pegs are fairly low for a sports bike and you will eventually run into ground clearance issues and need after market rearsets. However if you're just starting out, don't worry about the bike and just work on your riding.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 05:33
|
|
|
Sharkopath posted:So i'm trying to put together a garage kit so I can do all my own work and besides stuff like power drills, tire irons, a torque wrench and center stand, are there any other useful tools and things I should pick up? Not sure how no one else mentioned a multimeter and a good soldering iron
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 06:21
|
|
|
They don't own Italian bikes. Or British...
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 06:23
|
|
|
Sharkopath posted:So i'm trying to put together a garage kit so I can do all my own work and besides stuff like power drills, tire irons, a torque wrench and center stand, are there any other useful tools and things I should pick up? Just remembered, thread locker, mechanics gloves, knee pads(as an alternative to wheely stools), light/headlamp all come in handy for me.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 17:55
|
|
|
I have a brembo front master on my drz. It's the master off like every single disc ktm ever. It's specifically from a 125sx, but came on the 250, 350, 450, 525, etc. If it sits for a couple of days without use, it will lose its prime, and the first time you squeeze the brake, the lever goes to the bars. If you pump it a bit, it comes back and works until it sits for another couple days. This is super annoying, is it in need of a rebuild kit or what? It's properly bled, fluid is at the proper level, no leaks, etc.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 19:51
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:I have a brembo front master on my drz. It's the master off like every single disc ktm ever. It's specifically from a 125sx, but came on the 250, 350, 450, 525, etc. Yeah it's probably seeping fluid pass the MC seal.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 21:02
|
|
|
I was about to post to take the piss out of carbhavers and their constant tinkering when someone pointed out this thing to me: http://www.fatduc.com/ Now I'd long since tuned out the very slightly rough running on near-closed throttles at low revs (i.e. exactly the same conditions you'd normally be cruising in a city at) but I've heard some ridiculously glowing reviews of this. Mind you at 80 bucks for a variable resistor I'd hope it came with a free blowjob, but has anyone tried it? For those interested, it's basically a variable resistor you put inline with a Bosch exhaust oxygen (lambda) probe, faking out the closed-cycle fueling into running richer than it's supposed to. The claims I've heard for it are: - cleaner running at low revs (not a huge problem on the Shiver but it does need a little bit of clutch slipping at very low speeds, and sounds plausible) - improved throttle response at less-than-WOT (again, sounds plausible) - cooler-running exhaust (sounds plausible but make me worry about catalyst life) - improved fuel economy (sounds a bit implausible to me - putting in more fuel improving fuel economy? They seem a bit wooly on exactly how that works) - less backfiring on decel (boo, I like the pops) (While the site only mentions Ducati, AF1 Racing claim it as a panacea for Shiver and Dorsoduro engines, which have the same sensor, and others have mentioned it as working on dozens of other bikes)
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 22:17
|
|
|
It's a bit more than a "variable resistor". It's a variable (and tuned) voltage source. Richening up the mixture would have all of the effects listed, including improving fuel economy. How interested are you in the how? It's a lot of typing, and effortposting takes.. well. .effort.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 22:22
|
|
|
My stock vstar ran rough and would sometimes stop running for a couple revs at near-closed throttle, it felt... unsafe. I used a homemade cable thing with a fixed resistor that sounds pretty similar to that, and it vastly improved rideability. People would tell me that it did absolutely nothing, but the night and day difference in low-rpm partial-throttle manners definitely made me a believer. - cleaner running at low revs: staggering difference! - improved throttle response at less-than-WOT: yes, no more lurching hesitation with off-on transitions. - cooler-running exhaust: didn't notice - improved fuel economy: not by much but yes, pretty sure it comes with how you ride it. Before the mod, I'd ride every gear a couple hundred revs higher and open the throttle a lot faster to avoid that hosed up EPA zone. After the mod I could casually putt-putt around a lot easier. - less backfiring on decel: yes, and the vstar's pops sounded lame so that was good. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Oct 22, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 22:28
|
|
|
The downside of mods like that is they basically move the tuning in one direction (rich) and that isn't really a proper solution. If you've ever done dyno tuning (or looked at a dyno tuning map), you'll notice that the map gets richer and some areas and leaner in others - it's up to you if it's worth 80 bucks to spend on that when it might have marginal benefit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 22:42
|
|
|
Z3n posted:The downside of mods like that is they basically move the tuning in one direction (rich) and that isn't really a proper solution. If you've ever done dyno tuning (or looked at a dyno tuning map), you'll notice that the map gets richer and some areas and leaner in others - it's up to you if it's worth 80 bucks to spend on that when it might have marginal benefit.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 22:56
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:It's a bit more than a "variable resistor". It's a variable (and tuned) voltage source. Richening up the mixture would have all of the effects listed, including improving fuel economy. I'd be interested but don't go to any special effort for me. Z3n posted:The downside of mods like that is they basically move the tuning in one direction (rich) and that isn't really a proper solution. If you've ever done dyno tuning (or looked at a dyno tuning map), you'll notice that the map gets richer and some areas and leaner in others - it's up to you if it's worth 80 bucks to spend on that when it might have marginal benefit. Proper tuning's pretty much off the table on the Shiver because the system is such a closed book. Such stuff as exists is normally just a selection of hacks that are variations on this theme (trick the EMS by loving with inputs), and as is to be expected they're expensive and tricky to set up and add even more fragility to what are already Italian electronics to start with. Clutchpuck, thanks for the feedback. I'll be honest the lack of popping may even end up being a dealbreaker for me, although as it's adjustable I suppose I can just turn it to it's lowest setting if I'm going out for a proper hoon (where I don't give a poo poo about low-speed, low-throttle issues for obvious reasons). I think I'll go ahead and pull the trigger if I can find it for under £75 shipped, which is what someone on the AF1 forum paid for theirs a few years ago when the exchange rate was more favourable. That's cheap enough to chalk it up to experience if it turns out to cause problems (or not fix them), I think.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2013 22:58
|
|
|
Z3n posted:You turned the idle adjust all the way up when you screwed it in. The leak was probably just the floats resealing after sitting for a long while. I went back and loosened the idle adjust a good bit, I don't think it made much of a difference. I then thought the throttle cable was stuck or getting pulled or something so I took my tank off but it seemed fine and still did it. Overall, after loosening the idle adjust and maybe slightly freeing my cable, it starts up, goes to 7000 rpm immediately, stays around that level or wavers for a second or two, then redlines and I kill it (not sure how much I can trust the tachometer considering how jumpy it was, but the bike sounded pretty similar at the 7000 and 12000 levels). The only thing I didn't get to try due to lack of time was loosening both idle adjusts all the way (even though I've never even touched the 2nd carb's adjust) and maybe a thorough-er inspection of the throttle cable by taking the battery out, but I don't know what to do besides that. FWIW it's a pretty old bike. Also, if it is my floats resealing, how long does that take? Do I need to have my engine running? Just fuel flowing? Pie Colony fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Oct 23, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2013 01:14
|
|
|
A little idle adjust goes a long way. Keep turning it out (dont let it fall out though) until it idles normally. The fact that it now goes to 7k rather then redline is a sign you're on the right track. Don't touch the second carb's adjust. It worked fine before so it'll work fine again if you only fix the things you've messed up. The floats will usually reseal pretty quickly but sometimes some gas escapes out in spite of that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2013 06:50
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Personally, having ridden them both, the sv and the f4i are pretty evenly matched, performance-wise. On the track, the f4i will have the edge as it makes more power and has more aggressive suspension and geometry, and on the street, an f4i may as well be an i4 sv and the sv may as well be a v-twin f4i. Seeing as I already own the SV I just ordered some clip-ons to see if I like the more aggressive position. I'll be able to change the rise on them or swap back to handlebars if I hate it. Clipons are a lot cheaper than a new motorcycle!
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 13:56
|
|
|
I ride an old cbr 600 and need to change my chain and sprockets soon. Any reason not to put a front sprocket with one less tooth? How far off would it make my speedometer?
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 20:09
|
|
|
Isn't your speedometer wheel-driven? Or is it transmission-driven? Either way, make a ratio of the old tooth count to the new tooth count, and the difference of that ratio to "1" is how far off it will be in percentage if it is transmission driven.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 20:16
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Isn't your speedometer wheel-driven? Or is it transmission-driven? Its a sensor in the transmission. Good point about the ratio.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 21:09
|
|
|
Day Man posted:I ride an old cbr 600 and need to change my chain and sprockets soon. Any reason not to put a front sprocket with one less tooth? How far off would it make my speedometer? Go here - http://www.gearingcommander.com/ Play around with ratios and figure out what looks fun. Very handy site to have.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 21:30
|
|
|
Tires question: the Metzler Tourances on my weestrom are getting all square and thin. So it's time for new rubber. I use the Strom far more onroad than off, so I'm thinking I don't even need as offroad a tire as the Tourances were. Mainly I commute on it, do day rides close to town, and the occasional two-dayer into BC for some better roads. I saw that Michelin does Pilot Road 3s in my size, would those be a good thing to try? Where'd be the best place to buy from online that's in Canada?
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 23:24
|
|
|
Phy posted:Tires question: the Metzler Tourances on my weestrom are getting all square and thin. So it's time for new rubber. PR3's are awesome. 8000km's consisting of highway commuting and merciless beating on my giant hulk of a rex and the rear shows no signs of flattening whatsoever. I imagine the results with a smaller, lighter bike would be great.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 23:29
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm on the PR3 love train. They last forever. I have about 7000 miles on mine and they look great.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2013 23:34
|
|
|
Ok, so this is effectively my first winter riding the bike since I never had this problem in Hawaii or Arizona. Since they're painting my garage I had to park the bike outside in about 30F/0C overnight. This morning I went to get on the bike and it wouldn't start. The FI started up when I turned the key, but when I hit the starter it chugged twice then stoped. Didn't sound/feel like anything was turning over. Once I was able to push the bike to the ramp of the other garage I managed to bump start it (First time ever!) and get to work fine and not be late, thankfully. Is it just the cold that wasn't letting me start? Do I need to get a horse blanket and tuck the bike in every night so it'll start the next morning? I'll throw the multimeter on the battery when I get home later, but the bike's not even a year old yet.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 01:03
|
|
|
Sounds to me like your battery was having a hard time in the cold/degrading battery
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 01:04
|
|
|
nullscan posted:Ok, so this is effectively my first winter riding the bike since I never had this problem in Hawaii or Arizona. I'm amazed that this comes up on a weekly basis on this forum and somehow hasn't become common knowledge by osmosis yet. Your battery is a goner. Putting a blanket on the bike won't do anything for the battery but it won't hurt just to stop condensation/rain buildup damaging it cosmetically. I'll bet if you throw in a new battery you'll be amazed at how quickly it turns over compared to what you've gradually become used to.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 01:09
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:I'm amazed that this comes up on a weekly basis on this forum and somehow hasn't become common knowledge by osmosis yet. Your battery is a goner. Putting a blanket on the bike won't do anything for the battery but it won't hurt just to stop condensation/rain buildup damaging it cosmetically. or just put the battery somewhere warm on trickle charge overnight and hey presto battery not a goner anymore because while batteries don't like the cold, it rarely kills them outright.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 01:41
|
|
|
Well, that's what I figured, but I've never dealt with freezing temps and bikes so I just wanted to make sure. Thanks guys.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 01:41
|
|
|
Knit an electric battery cozy that uses its electricity source from a spliced trickle charger
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 02:06
|
|
|
Xovaan posted:Knit an electric battery cozy that uses its electricity source from a spliced trickle charger I had an electric blanket for the battery in my old beater of a car when I lived in North Bay ON. I plugged it in every night during the winter with the block heater.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 02:22
|
|
|
Linedance posted:or just put the battery somewhere warm on trickle charge overnight and hey presto battery not a goner anymore because while batteries don't like the cold, it rarely kills them outright. I've tried many times to resuscitate a flattened bike battery and failed, or they work fine for a while and just gently caress out a few weeks/months later, but that's anecdotal.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 02:44
|
|
|
Phy posted:Tires question: the Metzler Tourances on my weestrom are getting all square and thin. So it's time for new rubber. I picked up my last 2 sets of boots from Pete's Superbike. Comparable to US pricing. http://www.petes-superbike.com/index.php slidebite fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Oct 25, 2013 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 03:50
|
|
|
Not-having-a-battery-supremacy  Except when your choke cable seizes...
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 05:45
|
|
|
Does any BMW rider know of a good place to get handguards for my R1150R? I've gone some preliminary google, but haven't seen anything I've liked.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 13:42
|
|
|
MoraleHazard posted:Does any BMW rider know of a good place to get handguards for my R1150R? I've gone some preliminary google, but haven't seen anything I've liked. The 1150 GS handguards will bolt up just fine with a small bit of dremeling. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 20:15
|
|
|
I'm hunting for the OEM ones, but having difficulty finding them.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 22:02
|
|
|
Search for Factory R1150GS Handguards: http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1594 http://www.sierrabmwonline.com/product_info.php/bmw-r1150gs-handguard-kit-bmw-r1150gs-71607652330-p-851
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 22:34
|
|
|
MoraleHazard posted:Does any BMW rider know of a good place to get handguards for my R1150R? I've gone some preliminary google, but haven't seen anything I've liked. Acerbis do universal-fitment ones which are pretty cool.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2013 22:41
|
|
|
 Replace soon? ...Replace now?
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2013 22:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:10 |
|
|
Is it leaking? No? Keep going. Normal thing with tires.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2013 22:19
|
|
