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I'm looking at an NB that has Tokico shocks and Eibach springs. Don't know which models and haven't driven it yet. I've read bad stuff about pretty much all the Tokico offerings, though - are they really that bad?
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Oct 24, 2013 22:41
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Versus tennis balls and Racelands? It's probably a wash.
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Oct 24, 2013 22:43
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What would your guys recommend cheap shock/spring combo for spirited daily driving be?
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Oct 24, 2013 22:53
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Find some MSM take-offs, or keep the factory setup and switch out the shock with a OTS Koni or Bilstein.
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Oct 24, 2013 22:58
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I think Tokico's issues stem more from build quality than the ride, they ride ok actually. In the Miata shop I used to work for the owner stopped selling them because they tend to spring leaks not long into their life. He switched to KYBs which aren't any better but at least they held up for a reasonable amount of time. Of course that was the cheap setup, Konis were always recommended first. Konis are your best bet, I have them and they are great shocks for the money.
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 02:10
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I have the Flyin Miata spring/Tokico adjustable setup. I have no bad things to say about it. The shocks handled Thunderhill great with no leaks or anything else. Of course, I've never tried any other shock yet though.
Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Oct 25, 2013 |
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Oct 25, 2013 02:45
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Bilsteins and GC sleeves. The height and spring rate you want with a decent shock. And you can revalve them and get different springs for fairly cheap if you ever want to change your setup.
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Oct 25, 2013 03:24
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Anybody have a good link to top install instruction for the NB? I've heard it was way easier to just remove the frame so I think I'll go that way. Any other hints and tips?
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Oct 26, 2013 00:27
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AkrisD posted:Anybody have a good link to top install instruction for the NB? I've heard it was way easier to just remove the frame so I think I'll go that way. Any other hints and tips? I did my '99 with the frame still on the car, and followed this guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/miatatop/ It was a huge pain in the rear end, but while you're at it be sure to inspect your whole rain rail well (I replaced mine) and to clear out the two drain holes that the rain rail feeds into. Mine were completely clogged with crap.
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Oct 26, 2013 00:31
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It's more time consuming with the top off the car, but it's easier if that makes any sense.
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Oct 26, 2013 02:04
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All the guides that say closing the roof for the first time is tough are not kidding. Make sure you have some ratchet straps or 2-3 friends to help you close the top for the first time after replacing it.
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Oct 26, 2013 04:14
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Loosen the latches and it isn't that bad.
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Oct 26, 2013 17:10
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Installing the top in a heated garage has helped me in the past. I imagine warming the top with a nearby space heater would be an effective substitution. edit: drat autocorrect Goober Peas fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 18:49
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That reminds me of when I left the original top down in the back of my unheated garage in the winter for a couple weeks and it was really difficult to put back up again. I guess it's kept in a fairly taut state while up.
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Oct 26, 2013 19:01
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I keep creeping over my budget and looking at NCs. There's an 06 Sport near me w/ 53k miles, 6 spd obvs, just under $10k. blk fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 20:41
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I'd go over it very carefully, that seems a bit low for such a (relatively) low mile car. If it checks out though, jump on it. The NC1s do have an odd suspension, even with the performance package, but it's nothing that would keep me away from a sub-10k NC. They're amazing cars. e: Well then, forget my quibbles about price. Go for it! GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Oct 26, 2013 |
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Oct 26, 2013 21:33
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I just nabbed an '06 GT for about that price (dealer fees can suck it) with the same miles and it has very few flaws.
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Oct 26, 2013 22:42
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There was an 07 with BIN of 8k on eBay today. Prices seem to be creeping down for the season.
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Oct 26, 2013 23:31
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What are good rotors for regular street use for an NA? I was going to just go with OEM since I'm doing that for the pads but it turns out they're really expensive, like 65 bucks each. From other forums, I'm seeing recommendations for Brembo, Centric, and Napa (although apparently they're made in China now so no good?).
Hikaki fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 06:48
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Spend money on pads, save money on rotors. Most chunks of metal will do just fine.
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Oct 30, 2013 11:45
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Go to knsbrakes.com and get the cheapest rotors. Pick up whatever pads you want, ceramics for the street or HP+ for autocross.
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Oct 30, 2013 14:10
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Is this kit either overpriced for what it is, or total poo poo? it seems like a good deal. http://www.jegs.com/i/Power+Stop/419/K793/10002/-1 I'd probibly pair this in the rear with whatever rotors and pads i could get cheaply at NAPA.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:29
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I seem to recall that if you just select all the options on rockauto in their proper categories(ie all rear rotors, all front pads, etc) and let them minimize the cost for you in the cart, it'll end up just over a hundred for all four corners shipped. Personally I'd trust the cheapest ra rotors more than those drilled/precracked ones.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:35
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You really don't need those rotors. I just got the cheap Centric rotors and the "high performance" Centric pads from rockauto. It was like 110 bucks total for the front and rear. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 15:37
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Yeah, you really don't want drilled or slotted rotors for a Miata. I'm sure there are some cars where they are well made and useful, but no one has made any that are good on a Miata.
craig588 fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Oct 31, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 16:23
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Is this kit either overpriced for what it is, or total poo poo? it seems like a good deal.
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Oct 30, 2013 18:06
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Thanks for the advice. I ended up just getting both rotors and pads from Napa. About $174 shipped for all four. The "premium" Centric rotors did look nice but not at almost twice the price of the Napas. Same with OEM pads; the consensus seems to be similar stopping power with more dust and a bit less life for the Napas. Good enough for half the price of the OEMs! Edit: leica posted:You really don't need those rotors. I just got the cheap Centric rotors and the "high performance" Centric pads from rockauto. Wow, I guess I overpaid...maybe I should look around a bit more. Hikaki fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 19:40
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$175 isn't bad. He was saying $110 in just rotors.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:08
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I think he included pads, but in either case everything on rockauto is way cheaper so I might as well buy from there. Here's a question about those "high performance" Centric pads though: what the hell is "para-aramid composites"? I can't find any information on it besides Centric's marketing material.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:12
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I was going through a temp folder on my desktop and found pictures of my NA that I had all too briefly  
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Oct 30, 2013 21:00
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Phone posted:$175 isn't bad. He was saying $110 in just rotors. No that's for everything, not including shipping though.
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Oct 31, 2013 03:32
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Did I do this right? '06 6spd touring I settled on thanks to the advice from here.
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Oct 31, 2013 04:08
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Dameius posted:Did I do this right? '06 6spd touring I settled on thanks to the advice from here. Nice!
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Oct 31, 2013 09:01
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These cars look so nice in blue and red  Great find!
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Oct 31, 2013 10:00
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Wow, I had no idea Laguna Blue came back on NCs.
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Oct 31, 2013 11:41
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iv46vi posted:Wow, I had no idea Laguna Blue came back on NCs. That really is a great color, unfortunately, it was only available for 2006. (It's Winning Blue, btw)
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Oct 31, 2013 18:34
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 thats a new one
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Nov 1, 2013 22:40
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Wondering if you guys can give me ball park estimate on what I should be selling my miata for. 1994, classic red, 145k, 5 speed. I'm in the St. Louis area, so we don't really get any significant snow maybe a week out of the year. There's no rust. I was checking around craigslist and saw NAs are going for around 3000-3500, which seems a bit much in my opinion especially now that we're getting into winter.
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Nov 1, 2013 22:43
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opengl128 posted:
I think that's the test car Ford built in house.
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Nov 1, 2013 22:51
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Russian Bear posted:Wondering if you guys can give me ball park estimate on what I should be selling my miata for. 1994, classic red, 145k, 5 speed. I'm in the St. Louis area, so we don't really get any significant snow maybe a week out of the year. There's no rust. I was checking around craigslist and saw NAs are going for around 3000-3500, which seems a bit much in my opinion especially now that we're getting into winter. Go with the current local market unless you want to get rid of it quick, in that case price it accordingly. If you're in no hurry I'd wait until spring.
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Nov 1, 2013 23:20
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