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Dremel a slot in it, use the punch or a drift to try and knock it out. Failing that, drill out the head, and then remove with visegrips. A torch to heat up the red locktite can help too.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:07
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Slavvy posted:It's carby. Or do SV's have a funky pump-fed carb system or something? Carbed SVs have a vacuum driven fuel pump.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:19
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I have a brembo front master on my drz. It's the master off like every single disc ktm ever. It's specifically from a 125sx, but came on the 250, 350, 450, 525, etc. As a follow-up to this, I cannot for the life of me find a rebuild kit for this master cylinder: http://www.oppracing.com/product_display/30784-brembo-oe-front-brake-master-cylinder-ps11-silver-wreservoir-wlever97 Mine is specifically from a 2004 KTM 125sx Google is of no help. KTM-havers, where can I find this?
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Nov 7, 2013 22:31
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:As a follow-up to this, I cannot for the life of me find a rebuild kit for this master cylinder: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/ktm/sx_125_upside_down_forks/04/ edit: never mind its for the rear MC only
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Nov 7, 2013 23:23
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I see a lot of talk about crap Chinese scooters, but are there any super cheap foreign motorcycles that are actually semi-decent? I don't mean perfect, I just mean something that uses commonly available parts and runs ok. I'm thinking of that Russian bike they bought in The Long Way Round, which then outperformed the expensive BMWs across the muddy plains and can apparently be repaired by random Mongolians with a screwdriver and a rock. Edit: they paid, what, $1000 for that bike? That's about what you'll pay for a 30 year old rough-but-running UJM around here, so it seems sorta reasonable.
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Nov 8, 2013 00:04
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Hyosung.
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Nov 8, 2013 00:18
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echomadman posted:Carbed SVs have a vacuum driven fuel pump. Not a petcock?
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Nov 8, 2013 01:26
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Phy posted:Not a petcock? They have a vacuum petcock at the tank, and then a vacuum fuel pump that mounts to frame rails. It's an interesting setup, not sure why they did it that way.
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Nov 8, 2013 01:39
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Yamaha XJ600s did this as well. The fuel pump on most years was just a manifold with valves in it, but it switched to an electric pump in later years and I think kept the vacuum petcock. It's nice when it works because you never have to think about turning the fuel off, but if it fails you get flooded.
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Nov 8, 2013 02:21
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Nov 8, 2013 03:10
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Half the bikes I own don't trigger on rear brake. But some penetrating oil or otherwise (WD40  ) shot up in there will probably fix it.
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Nov 8, 2013 04:08
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Nov 8, 2013 04:40
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Day Man posted:Does the fuel pump run when you try to start it? Got it running. It turns out there was still some gunky gas at the very rear end end of the tank. I drained a half gallon or so and the rest was fresh, after which it started right up. All those carb cleanings for nothing 
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Nov 8, 2013 04:42
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Jose Pointero posted:Is that a bonehead idea? I'm going to replace the switch eventually, but I'd rather wait until the next time I'm ordering parts. I figure, if I'm stopping I'm using the front brake 100% of the time anyway. http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0 Try that or some kind of electrically safe contact cleaner. Had the same problem and that worked perfect.
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Nov 8, 2013 04:42
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Jose Pointero fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Aug 28, 2019 |
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Nov 8, 2013 05:59
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I'm winterizing the bike this week for the first time. I wanted to run my plan by you guys just in case I'm missing something. - change the oil - clean and gear oil the chain - fill the tank with fresh gas and stabil, ride it to run the gas through - fog the cylinders - petcock off, idle the bike till it dies, drain the carbs - put the battery on a tender - put it on the centerstand, put wood blocks under tires - put waterproof cover on Someone mentioned using some anti-corrosive spray. Should I get some and spray it on any scratches/bare metal? It gets pretty humid here, even during winter. Also, will this be good for fogging the cylinders?
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Nov 9, 2013 15:47
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Make sure your waterproof cover is breathable so that moisture doesn't get trapped inside. I.e., not a tarp, an actual MC cover.
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Nov 9, 2013 16:11
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M42 posted:I'm winterizing the bike this week for the first time. I wanted to run my plan by you guys just in case I'm missing something. First step is to give it a really good wash and wax. Don't change the oil before you store it, change it afterwards instead as your first priority and use a fresh filter per season. Your bike will be a lot happier by this approach. Draining the carburetors is a tremendously bad idea, unless you plan to store it for years. Aluminum oxide build-up requires oxygen and a full float-bowl prevents that. Just leave them as is and drain the bowls while you change the oil and prepare it for spring. Draining your carburetors and fuel lines will destroy your most important component for correct operation - your float-bowl needle-valve(s). No reason to add stabilizing wonder-products(tm) to the gasoline unless you live in a really lovely place on earth or plan to store it for years. Almost all gasoline-manufactures adds all that's needed for a few month of outside storage. Just fill your tank to the brim when it's placed on the center stand for storage. Pull the battery and store it inside your warm house/shred/garage/closet instead of leaving it on the bike. A few recharges during storage will be sufficient, just don't let it run dry. If you use a closed cell/gell battery, just take it inside and charge it once per month. Lubricate everything including all cables and outside moving parts. Clean all electrical contacts and lubricate them. Protect all rubber and black plastics with brush-on silicone. People might disagree, but the above has worked for me for decades.
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Nov 9, 2013 16:25
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Make sure your waterproof cover is breathable so that moisture doesn't get trapped inside. I.e., not a tarp, an actual MC cover. I've got this guy. Doesn't say if it's breathable or not... Hmm... the stabil and carbs are completely opposite of what I've heard. Out of curiosity, why's it better to change the oil afterwards (mine needs a change anyway)? M42 fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 16:30
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M42 posted:I've got this guy. Doesn't say if it's breathable or not... A lot of what you've heard is possibly bullshit. M42 posted:Out of curiosity, why's it better to change the oil afterwards (mine needs a change anyway)? Oil has only one purpose for storage. To prevent oxidation of your crank (unless you're running a 2-smoke), valves, springs, gears and other moving parts. What break down oil is pressure, temperature and exposure to the atmosphere (oxygen and water). For preventing corrosion your used oil will work just fine. If you store new fresh oil outside for months in your engine, it will be less optimal than starting your bike up with new fresh oil. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 16:35
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If you just ride it any time it's warm you don't have to worry about winterizing, I've found.
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Nov 9, 2013 16:41
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nsaP posted:If you just ride it any time it's warm you don't have to worry about winterizing, I've found. I think that kind of depends on where you are on the globe. If you're able to do that however, you're right. Not-storing your bike is the better option, but for various reasons it's not always possible.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:15
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Yeah, I wish I could. Only 3 more winters till I move back to CA  If winterizing turns out to be too much of a pain in the rear end, I'll just buck up and buy a full set of winter gear. I wasn't gonna, cause $$$ and I won't ever use it after I move, but maybe it's worth it after all.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:20
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M42 posted:If winterizing turns out to be too much of a pain in the rear end. Did you read my post at all? Winterizing takes about 40 minutes and will cost you less than a dollar. Just do it right.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:26
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I've heard to change the oil before storage as the old oil's acidity can eat away at your poo poo; it's also what my bike's manual says to do. Yet if you ride it all winter long that same oil will be sitting in the engine anyway so I find it a bit of a moot point. Starting with fresh oil, without any moisture accumulated from months of sitting, like a plausible approach too. Honestly though, I do neither, I'm not throwing away perfectly good oil and I just stick to changing it at least once a year and every x miles.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:28
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Sir Cornelius posted:Did you read my post at all? Winterizing takes about 40 minutes and will cost you less than a dollar. Just do it right. It's a lot more annoying for someone that doesn't own a house and needs to find a place to store it (which is never free).
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Nov 9, 2013 17:30
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M42 posted:It's a lot more annoying for someone that doesn't own a house and needs to find a place to store it (which is never free). My advice was based on the fact that you have to store it outside. Under the cover you said you own. I actually read your question.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:32
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Oh, my bad - I didn't mention my parking is on the street, right where salt trucks come by. I'm most likely renting an off-street spot from someone I know or a goon. Didn't mean to imply it would stay at my apartment complex, though I really wish it could.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:38
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High Protein posted:Honestly though, I do neither, I'm not throwing away perfectly good oil and I just stick to changing it at least once a year and every x miles. That's the solid approach. I sometimes do that as well, but honestly, for storage there's no need to fill your gearbox and engine with expensive oil designed to take the gearbox pressure for riding. Especially not if you regard your winterizing "fresh new oil" to be mint after outdoor gearbox-storage for a few month.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:39
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Most of what you hear is just people parroting poo poo they've heard is a good idea. Here's a write-up on the what, why, and so on. Really you're fine, if not a little excessive. Though I wouldn't leave the carbs drained as some seals can dry out and crack. This is suggested so that the jets don't get clogged with lovely fuel, but if you're adding a stabilizer that's not really a concern.
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Nov 9, 2013 17:52
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Hey guys! I need a torque wrench that does super low Nm settings. A lot of these loving bolts are like 15 Nm torque specs. I've never had a digital one, but anyone have experience with this thing: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-...REDIRECT=false?
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Nov 9, 2013 18:16
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Halo_4am posted:Most of what you hear is just people parroting poo poo they've heard is a good idea. Here's a write-up on the what, why, and so on. Thanks for mentioning seals and gaskets. I kind of forgot that concern. Modern fuel in the western world won't get get bad unless it's allowed to vaporize for years. Also modern gaskets materials won't dry out like '70s poo poo. However, my main concern with emptying the fuel lines is the needle-valves/float-valves. They have a very fine closing surface designed to be lubricated at high speed operation (they actually move more than your engine valves on a 4-stroke). They will easily develop corrosion if exposed to air and moisture.
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Nov 9, 2013 18:44
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Actually the piss that we use for fuel these days turns to poo poo far quicker than old fuel. Ethanol is great at sucking up water and corroding the poo poo out of fuel components. I've started my bike after it sitting for three months and the exhaust smelled like varnish. If I were going for long term (more than about 6 months) storage I'd drain my carbs. As far as seals drying out, I doubt there will be any issue. I've got carbs that have been sitting dry for years and the seals are fine. If they are old and lovely without fuel they would be old and lovely with fuel too. You do want to keep your tank full just to cut down on the amount of condensation that can develop in the air space not taken up by fuel. Your float needles don't move up and down anywhere near what your valves are moving btw. That's absurd. They work like the float in your toilet. When the level drops they go with it and open until the level rises. If you're at a constant demand they will partially open to keep fuel level consistent. Change your oil whenever. If it's nasty change it beforehand. If it's cleanish then leave it be. It's just going to be sitting in your oil pan. Leaving it sitting there is the same as leaving it in bottles out in your shed. Your crank sees no oil when the engine is off.
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Nov 9, 2013 19:07
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Bugdrvr posted:Your float needles don't move up and down anywhere near what your valves are moving btw. That's absurd. Welcome to the world of absurdness, but that's actually what they do in the real life. If they don't your carburetors are malfunctioning or you've got float bowls at gallon size. For a carburetor to function correctly, constant float bowl fuel level is key, and actually the most common carburetor malfunction is the needle valves. It's often wrongly diagnosed as "clogged jets" and the most common advise is to "clean your loving jets and ports with piano wire". Guess what? The world lied to you. Bugdrvr posted:Actually the piss that we use for fuel these days turns to poo poo far quicker than old fuel. Ethanol is great at sucking up water and corroding the poo poo out of fuel components. I've started my bike after it sitting for three months and the exhaust smelled like varnish. You might have a point here. I'm European, and our fuel is probably a tad different (and a lot more expensive) than what they feed you North Americans. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 19:23
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You really think that lovely plastic/brass float with a "kinda fits" axle and wobbly needle valve move up and down between 500 and 7000+ times per minute?? No way in the world. The level drops and with it the float. Fuel flows in until the level rises. That's it. If there is a constant demand (such as cruising on the freeway) the level stays low and the float stays open. It doesn't take a gallon sized bowl to maintain that because each cylinder isn't pulling all that much fuel. You could get away with a lot smaller of a bowl if you didn't have to worry about major transitions such as from idle to a full throttle pull.
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Nov 9, 2013 19:55
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Bugdrvr posted:You really think that lovely plastic/brass float with a "kinda fits" axle and wobbly needle valve move up and down between 500 and 7000+ times per minute?? No way in the world. I don't think you've got a clue about how a carburetor actually works. Believe it or not, with common carburetor design, your float valves move a lot more than your pistons. It's the most stressed part of a carburetor feed small engine. Period. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 20:11
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Sir Cornelius posted:First step is to give it a really good wash and wax. Change the oil before you store it. Old oil has crappy crap in it and fresh oil is better for the engine. I cannot back this up except to say this is what the teachers at MMI said. Fuel stabilizer is one of the most important things, especially with a small carbureted engine like a Ninja 250. Ethanol gas breaks down in a matter of weeks or months. I've had to clean out carbs on new scooters that merely sat in a showroom for a while before they sold. You don't need to lube every cable and clean every electrical connector. It won't hurt but holy christ that's a lot of work and is mostly unrelated to storage. Draining the carbs is not really necessary when you have the fuel stabilizer but it doesn't hurt. Storing the battery in a warm place is in fact a good idea. And charging it. I'm unconvinced you need to fog the cylinders unless you're storing it a hell of a long time. The cyls are not exposed to the elements. But I think any oil like PB blaster would do it fine. WD40 is a water dispersant and will help preserve things like chrome if you spray it on.
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Nov 9, 2013 20:13
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Old oil has crappy crap in it and fresh oil is better for the engine. Did you read what I posted? I don't recommend that you run the engine on old oil. I just stated that an oil-change is much more relevant after you pull the bike out of storage than before you store it. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Is this a troll? Most of this is wrong. Are you a troll, pal? After this statement you agree about everything but the oil change. Sir Cornelius fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Nov 9, 2013 |
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Nov 9, 2013 20:23
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Sir Cornelius posted:Did you read what I posted? I don't recommend that you run the engine on old oil. I just stated that an oil-change is much more relevant after you pull the bike out of storage than before you store it. Are YOU a troll?
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Nov 9, 2013 21:12
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We're all trolls down here Johnny. We're all trolls down here.
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Nov 9, 2013 21:23
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