|
Geirskogul posted:Are YOU a troll? Are you an idiot?
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2013 23:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:40 |
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:Are you an idiot? Nice to see you back in your old belligerent form, i miss the days of you being banned every other week for misreading peoples posts and coming back with a load of angry off topic nonsense.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2013 23:16
|
|
|
echomadman posted:Nice to see you back in your old belligerent form, i miss the days of you being banned every other week for misreading peoples posts and coming back with a load of angry off topic nonsense. I've trained a lot, but I'm still not able to out-shitpost you. drat.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2013 23:35
|
|
|
I know you are but what am I?
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2013 23:39
|
|
|
Haha, never change, sir cornelius, never accept that anyone else knows anything and defend your opinions to the grave like its your family honor. Keep on keepin on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 00:06
|
|
|
Gonna jump on the Cornelius dogpile and say use Stabil, lovely American ethanol gas turns to Jello in weeks (put some in a 20 oz and see), Stabil is cheap as poo poo and adds all of two minutes to your winterizing. Sir Corny gets that superior Nordic swill, we don't have the privilege. Also either keep your bike on a battery tended or (even better) pull the battery and tend it in at least a partially climate-controlled part of your house. If the bike will see rain / snow / puddles, put chunks of 2x4 under the tires ( and stand.) I still haven't the foggiest idea what fogging the cylinders means.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 00:11
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:Haha, never change, sir cornelius, never accept that anyone else knows anything and defend your opinions to the grave like its your family honor. Keep on keepin on. Fair arguments. I totally see what's wrong with my advise now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 00:11
|
|
|
If you simply add honey or Crisco to your tank it'll soak up the water that's inside. Doubly well if you add rock salt into the mix.
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 00:18
|
|
|
JP Money posted:If you simply add honey or Crisco to your tank it'll soak up the water that's inside. Doubly well if you add rock salt into the mix. Your not Cornelius, so this advice must be correct.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 00:40
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:Your not Cornelius, so this advice must be correct. To be quite honest, that rule is not isolated to covering mechanical engineers named Cornelius with a few decades of experience riding and maintaining bikes. Challenging sound advise given by non-poo poo-poster JP Money is futile. Have fun.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 01:05
|
|
|
Help I'm putting sponsor stickers on my vise but my wisdom is not growing.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 01:07
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Help I'm putting sponsor stickers on my vise but my wisdom is not growing. You need new sponsors and fresh stickers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 01:12
|
|
|
I just toss non-ethanol gas in on the last fill up and call it good. Not really sure about the whole old oil thing or oil becoming acidic, not heard of that one. It probably matters very little when you change the oil as long as you change it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 01:28
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:To be quite honest, that rule is not isolated to covering mechanical engineers named Cornelius with a few decades of experience riding and maintaining bikes. Challenging sound advise given by non-poo poo-poster JP Money is futile. Have fun. Whoa whoa whoa I'm just here to help out with oil stability. Let's not go designating me as a "non-poo poo-poster".
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 01:38
|
|
|
JP Money posted:Whoa whoa whoa I'm just here to help out with oil stability. Let's not go designating me as a "non-poo poo-poster". I saw a serious post from you in 2007 and then again around 2010. And now this one. Don't even think about denying it, I've got everything logged.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 02:10
|
|
|
Sorry for starting an internet slapfight y'all.Snowdens Secret posted:I still haven't the foggiest idea what fogging the cylinders means. According to people not me, if your bike's gonna be stored out in the elements during winter, you should spray some penetrating lube into the cylinders to prevent rust from forming on the surfaces in there. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 02:17
|
|
|
M42 posted:Sorry for starting an internet slapfight y'all. And there is lubricant specifically called "fogging oil" or "fogging lubricant" for this purpose, but it's usually overpriced and/or not needed. If I were storing an Ariel Square Four or something for an expected decade, I'd use it, but for just one winter I don't do anything special. Fogging oil sprays and "sticks" slightly differently than just a normal lubricant or water displacer. In my experience it is halfway between WD-40 and white lithium grease in how it sticks and sprays in a mist, but I don't feel the need unless I'm seriously storing something. Also works on chrome and exposed metals.E VVVVV: I agree with spraying some WD-40 in the exhaust pipe and shoving a plastic grocery bag in the very end to keep vermin out if you're storing it outside or in a garage/barn that could harbor them. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Nov 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 02:25
|
|
|
Yeah I think it's not that big a deal for a single season. Plus you got the air box, filter, etc, to keep the elements out of the cylinders. They're fairly protected. Might be a fair amount of work to get that stuff off to spray the oil into the cylinders too. Putting a plug in the end of the exhaust and spraying WD40 on the pipes might be a good idea though, those things are exposed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 03:07
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:I don't think you've got a clue about how a carburetor actually works. Believe it or not, with common carburetor design, your float valves move a lot more than your pistons. It's the most stressed part of a carburetor feed small engine. Period. This is cute. You're right, I have no idea how a carb works. Clearly the floats are built for the stresses involved in opening and closing several thousand times a minute. Yes, clearly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 03:43
|
|
|
Sir Cornelius posted:I don't think you've got a clue about how a carburetor actually works. Believe it or not, with common carburetor design, your float valves move a lot more than your pistons. It's the most stressed part of a carburetor feed small engine. Period. Wait, I missed this from the last page. What the hell are you talking about? Do you understand the fluid dynamics of an engine? You're saying that, on my single cylinder engine, the CV puck in the carburetor would be falling with every stroke of the piston and moving just as much as you say the float valve is, because there's obviously enough interruption in the air flow through the carburetor (and therefore an interruption in the fuel flow out of the float bowl, because fuel flows out of the jets when air moves through the carburetor) to allow it to fall, because the fuel has to stop and be restarted with every stroke. You're also saying that this happens on my CM250 that has one carburetor split into a Y-pipe for two cylinders, and on my friend's CB750 that has the same setup but with opposed cylinders instead of ones firing at the same time. You're saying all of this with your claim. I've looked at the intake on my Enfield while it is idling, and when it is revved up, and I don't see this supposed complete stoppage of air flow that would be long enough to cause the venturi effect to completely stop, which would allow the fuel flow (remember, it flows with air) to completely stop, which would cause the float valve to reseat and stop the gas because the bowl has filled. In fact, you can look on YouTube for videos of carburetors with glass float bowls, and it sure doesn't look like they stop flow and reseat after every stroke of the piston. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_js_j9ZtAac https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAwNaH60j10 So, really, you're blowing smoke out of your rear end. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Nov 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 04:30
|
|
|
Geirskogul posted:So, really, you're blowing smoke out of your rear end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVrFjZ10J00
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 06:16
|
|
|
Bugdrvr posted:This is cute. You're right, I have no idea how a carb works. Clearly the floats are built for the stresses involved in opening and closing several thousand times a minute. Yes, clearly. I also have no idea how carbs work. Given what you're saying about floats you clearly don't either.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 07:38
|
|
|
No one in this thread knows anything, can we all settle on that?
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 13:43
|
|
|
Jim Silly-Balls posted:No one in this thread knows anything, can we all settle on that? Ehh, I don't know about that
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 13:58
|
|
|
The floats jiggle, jesus.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 17:08
|
|
|
n8r posted:I also have no idea how carbs work. Given what you're saying about floats you clearly don't either. How so? If you watch the first video the float just hangs out. If what guy up there is saying is any kind of true then that float should have been slamming all over the place on that I6 on the first video. The second was on a dyno pull and some small metal thing was flopping around in there but I'm really not sure what it was, wasn't a float though. I was just refuting him saying that the float moves more than the piston. You do understand how much inertial force would be stressing that lovely stamped sheet metal hanger the floats are stuck on if they were going up and down as fast (or faster as had been claimed) as the pistons right? Off idle the engine is sucking in air quick enough that you basically don't get individual pulses it's more of an average. Take your air box off and watch your CV slides at anything past about 1,500 RPM. They don't flop up and down they just kind of hang there in relation to whatever position the throttle is held at. The floats are going to be doing that same thing, keeping the fuel at the proper level as an average. If you crack the throttle they drop and allow more fuel in, if you snap it shut they rise and close it off. Stuff is happening really drat fast inside your engine and the light spring tension on the slides and nothing but gravity acting on the floats means they sure as hell aren't going to be keeping up. VVV I guess I am sperging out over nothing then. Yeah, the carbs (and the moving bits inside) are gonna vibrate when they are attached to a huge lump of metal that is vibrating. Bugdrvr fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Nov 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 19:17
|
|
|
For gently caress's sake. Sir Cornelius has this special thing where he likes to point out how much improperly supported carbs vibrate ("a float bowl tsunami"). Generally the vibration modes in an engine are going to have a higher frequency than the actual crankshaft RPM, so if the carb is vibrating with the engine, the various little mechanical bits inside are going to be shaking up and down more frequently than once per piston stroke. That is what he means by "more". Not that the slides are rocketing three inches up and down in their bores a hundred times a second. e: At least I assume that's what he meant. I went back and read his stuff again and now it looks like he is saying that the float bowl inlet valve shoots up and down at greater than half the crank RPM. I don't really know any more. 
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Nov 10, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 19:23
|
|
|
I'm not taking a side in this mess, partially because I can't even tell what's being argued, but I will put out that you're not going to see whether kilohertz+ vibrations are present or not with your naked eye.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 19:25
|
|
|
Well, if vibrations count—my balls also go up and down faster than valves too. I didn't really know how carbs work so I watched a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMAKyTvjqaQ
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 19:59
|
|
|
you know what settles this argument once and for all? Fuel injection.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 20:35
|
|
|
Snowdens Secret posted:I'm not taking a side in this mess, partially because I can't even tell what's being argued, but I will put out that you're not going to see whether kilohertz+ vibrations are present or not with your naked eye. But also in that case the float wouldn't appear to be chilling in one spot letting fuel in, either (like it is in both of the videos I posted). It's very clear the float has to drop down more to open the float valve more to let more fuel in to compensate for the increased throttle position. There's no way it bounces back up on every second stroke to close and then re-open again. clutchpuck posted:Counterpoint: goddamned emissions standards. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Nov 11, 2013 |
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2013 21:21
|
|
|
Linedance posted:you know what settles this argument once and for all? Fuel injection. Counterpoint: goddamned emissions standards.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 01:04
|
|
|
You just can't see it in the video because the low framerate happens to line up on a node with the float as it moves up and down at kHz frequencies. (joking)
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 02:30
|
|
|
thylacine posted:Well, if vibrations count—my balls also go up and down faster than valves too. Not how my carbs work. Bugdrvr: sorry I missed the sarcasm in your reply. I should be telling Sir Cornelius he doesn't know what he's talking about but that already has been covered.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 06:41
|
|
|
Okay, what just happened here.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 06:48
|
|
|
nsaP posted:Okay, what just happened here. Whatever it was it clearly happened at an oscillation too fast for you to see.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 06:52
|
|
|
Are you guys utilizing red or blue powerbands when referencing carb float levels? Floats are well reported to oscillate at ~19.7 KHz with red and somewhere on the order of 20.2-20.5 KHz with blue proving that blue is faster on the American Scale of Bigger = Better.
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 06:54
|
|
|
We're going the way of gbs, it seems.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 13:43
|
|
|
If you don't want to change the oil for storage, at least treat it with some turn signal fluid -- about 3-4 oz. should do it. That leaves more than enough to flush the fluid for you actual signals. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=22 Also, to properly winterize the bike, don't forget to winterize the air in your air filter not just in your tires. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=31 Lots of people know to put winter air in the tires, but your air filter also has a ton of summer air that harms performance once it breaks down over the winter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 17:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 19:40 |
|
Tamir Lenk posted:If you don't want to change the oil for storage, at least treat it with some turn signal fluid -- about 3-4 oz. should do it. That leaves more than enough to flush the fluid for you actual signals. I wholeheartedly agree with this post. This is proper winterization procedure.
|
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2013 18:11
|
|