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Yeah that almost has to be your issue. I went through the same thing a while back, even re-greased things a couple times. I'm sorry to say the probably will probably come back, but at least the fix is free, just time consuming.
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Nov 10, 2013 23:10
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
Quoting myself just to give a trip report. Scheduling with the seller worked out so that the wife and I could get out and see this (it's about an hour away) last night. It's been garaged it's whole life. It has been a secondary vehicle to the current owner since he purchased it earlier this year. He doesn't drive it much and thought it's too nice to sit. There are no drips, the body is in incredibly good shape. The interior looks great too! The headliner is perfect, door cards have no sagging/peeling. It is a 'luxury trim' model so no vaders. The seats do have wear, but no tears or rips. Engine ran great, no stutters, smooth shifting/clutch action. All the pixels work on the OBC. Needs some brake work. TL/DR; I'm in love  please someone buy my speed6
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Nov 11, 2013 05:36
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I have a really dumb question. What are all the crazy "hydraulic" sounds that emerge from the rear of my vehicle after parking, getting out and locking the doors. I know there's a turbo cooling fan that can pop on afterwards, but this is definitely coming from the rear. It does it when I unlock as well, and for the longest time I assumed it was the seat trying to maneuver into position, despite already being in the right place. I've googled it, but it's hard to parse through the actual odd sounds people have with their cars.
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Nov 13, 2013 04:12
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Binge posted:I have a really dumb question. What are all the crazy "hydraulic" sounds that emerge from the rear of my vehicle after parking, getting out and locking the doors. I know there's a turbo cooling fan that can pop on afterwards, but this is definitely coming from the rear. It does it when I unlock as well, and for the longest time I assumed it was the seat trying to maneuver into position, despite already being in the right place. When you unlock it's probably the fuel pump priming. When you lock it after driving it's probably depressurizing the system or something.
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Nov 13, 2013 20:52
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what the hell car is it? My F10 sounds like a space shuttle rebooting after I park it with all sorts of fans/locks/sensors activating. My E46 sometimes whirrs a bit and the oil separator or some valve makes a froggie croaking noise.
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Nov 13, 2013 21:18
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Oh yeah, it's an e90 335xi. I also like to refer to it as "The greatest car I'll probably ever own in my life."
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Nov 13, 2013 22:46
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Quoting myself just to give a trip report. Scheduling with the seller worked out so that the wife and I could get out and see this (it's about an hour away) last night. It's been garaged it's whole life. It has been a secondary vehicle to the current owner since he purchased it earlier this year. He doesn't drive it much and thought it's too nice to sit. There are no drips, the body is in incredibly good shape. The interior looks great too! The headliner is perfect, door cards have no sagging/peeling. It is a 'luxury trim' model so no vaders. The seats do have wear, but no tears or rips. Engine ran great, no stutters, smooth shifting/clutch action. All the pixels work on the OBC. Needs some brake work. Check the rear subframe mounts and look for frame damage pre-purchase (seriously check). Sunroof is an extremely costly part too so check that as well. If those three items check out it's almost certainly going to be an excellent car.
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Nov 14, 2013 00:25
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revmoo posted:Check the rear subframe mounts and look for frame damage pre-purchase (seriously check). Sunroof is an extremely costly part too so check that as well. If those three items check out it's almost certainly going to be an excellent car. You can't do this without a lift right?
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Nov 14, 2013 01:14
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E36 M3s already have the factory subframe reinforcement, it really isn't common for them to fail there. RTAB pockets are probably the most notorious spot but even those are quite rare unless the car has been tracked/abused.
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Nov 14, 2013 01:19
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Crustashio posted:E36 M3s already have the factory subframe reinforcement, it really isn't common for them to fail there. RTAB pockets are probably the most notorious spot but even those are quite rare unless the car has been tracked/abused. Not all of the m3's had the reinforcements, but I would say front subframes are more common than rtab pockets.
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Nov 14, 2013 01:21
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You're talking early, early 95s though, no later than '94 build dates. 99% of them will have the reinforcement. The front subframe is bad, but is easily fixable and not part of the chassis. I got mine welded for 60 bucks, but I did remove it myself. The rear subframe sway bar tabs are also poo poo, but an easy fix and some people have had it done without taking it out. Rear shock towers are definitely something to check as well. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 01:34
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Crustashio posted:E36 M3s already have the factory subframe reinforcement, it really isn't common for them to fail there. RTAB pockets are probably the most notorious spot but even those are quite rare unless the car has been tracked/abused. Crustashio posted:Rear shock towers are definitely something to check as well. Do you have any photos that I'm able to see what I'm looking/not looking for?
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Nov 14, 2013 02:24
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Can anyone who has E36 coupe/sedan experience want to comment on the rear seats in the E36 coupe? I REALLY want an E36 M3 sedan, but there really aren't many around me. There are some coupes though. How useable are the seats when compared to the sedan?
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Nov 14, 2013 06:37
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Ziploc posted:Can anyone who has E36 coupe/sedan experience want to comment on the rear seats in the E36 coupe?
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Nov 14, 2013 06:41
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I've ridden in the back of my brother's E36 M3 coupe many times and I have had no issues, I'm 6'0".
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Nov 14, 2013 16:36
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Ziploc posted:Can anyone who has E36 coupe/sedan experience want to comment on the rear seats in the E36 coupe? I have an e36 M3 coupe and it has more room than my e30 325is. Admittedly I've never ridden in the back but I've had friends back there and they seemed fine with it. Like any coupe though if you're well over 6' yeah it's probably not going to be the most comfortable. But it was more room than I expected. The driver and front passenger have a ton of room, so as long as they aren't really tall you can move the seats up and everyone will still be plenty comfortable.
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Nov 14, 2013 19:10
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Do you have any photos that I'm able to see what I'm looking/not looking for? This should help: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1429052-DIY-Torn-Rear-Shock-Tower-Repair
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Nov 14, 2013 20:10
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Das Volk posted:This should help: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1429052-DIY-Torn-Rear-Shock-Tower-Repair Wow, impressive DIY fix. I didn't expect it to be that easy to be honest.
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Nov 14, 2013 20:56
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Das Volk posted:This should help: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1429052-DIY-Torn-Rear-Shock-Tower-Repair Wow, that's exactly the kind of stuff I need to know and haven't found much info on. I'll be peeling back the liner and taking a peek at the tower mounts. What are the braces/z3 mounts that forum is talking about? Too much  forum lingo. The kid that was going to buy my car needs to scrape together enough cash for taxes/title/licensing fees. Dammit! Just someone buy my car that actually shows up with money. vvv thanks for the heads up! I've poked around on pelican a little bit but I am going to need to get used to their page layout. vvv Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 21:16
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Somewhat Heroic posted:What are the braces/z3 mounts that forum is talking about? from Pelican Parts (bookmark their guides page, btw, it's helpful as hell): 
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Nov 14, 2013 22:33
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Ziploc posted:Can anyone who has E36 coupe/sedan experience want to comment on the rear seats in the E36 coupe? Hi, I've actually owned both. It's the same in either car. Slightly cramped but definitely livable. The coupe and sedan are pretty much the exact same dimensions so it is really no use buying the sedan for legroom.
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Nov 15, 2013 00:06
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I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know about an m42 engine for sale? Mine is over 200k, so I figure I'd like to pick one up, rebuild, bore it and do some other upgrades.
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Nov 15, 2013 00:39
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Anyone have tips on installing an h&r front swaybar on an e30('91 318is)? The h&r bushing is pretty big so I don't see how I'm going to be able to bolt the bracket in.
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Nov 15, 2013 01:53
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Push really hard, use the studs to draw the bracket over the bushing.
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Nov 15, 2013 01:56
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Crustashio posted:Push really hard, use the studs to draw the bracket over the bushing. I can fit the bracket on the bushing fine. The bushing protrudes far enough out of the bracket that getting the bracket tab into the slot on the subframe and bolting the other side of the bracket in place is going to be very difficult. I was going to manhandle it, but didn't want to bend the tab.
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Nov 15, 2013 02:00
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What are your guys thoughts on vinyl M3 decals? I'm going back and forth on getting the solid M stripe for the hood or possibly the M striped checkered flag on my e36 M3. I realize this can get really tacky and people have some strong opinions about decals, but on the other hand I think it's not over the top and at least the checkered flag was done by BMW in the past. Stripes  Checkered 
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Nov 15, 2013 04:13
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I think it's one of those things that looks neat in pictures but that I would never put on my own car that isn't purely a track car.
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Nov 15, 2013 04:18
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I love all that stuff and think anything factory or similar to factory is fine.
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Nov 15, 2013 04:53
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The checkered one is awesome.
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Nov 15, 2013 05:27
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Checkered definitely and I don't think it's inappropriate since it is going on a M3 and is relatively subtle. At least as far as car decals are concerned.
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Nov 15, 2013 05:41
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Popete posted:What are your guys thoughts on vinyl M3 decals? Track car or legitimate E36 M3 LWT yes, street car na. If you do it I'd recommend having it professionally installed and use a well known brand, I've seen some pretty lovely vinyl jobs lately.
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Nov 15, 2013 15:16
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It's my daily car, though I also have an e30 I'll be driving through the winter and putting the M3 in storage. I didn't realize the checkered was placed only on the LTW. I feel like it could be done well, like a charcoal grey or white checkered flag on my black M3 just on the front and skipping the rear flag. At the same time there is a lot to be said for a really clean M3 with some BBS wheels, even debadged (personally not something I would do).
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Nov 15, 2013 16:43
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Did how TPMS work change within the past few years or something? I thought it was based on tirespeed compared to the others. I started my car on Wednesday and it immediately told me my front left tire was low. I didn't have time to check the pressure right then and I was freaking out the whole drive until I could. The whole drive into work (five minutes, wasn't too worried about ruining my runflat since I drove hundreds of miles apparently with no air in my last car) I kept thinking what could be wrong. I accidentally hit a pot hole a few months ago. Could that have bent or cracked my wheel? It was the first day of very cold weather so maybe the wheel shrunk a bit and it let a bunch of air out. Then I got home from lunch and was able to grab my tire gauge and it was four pounds low. There really needs to be an intermediate stage between "tires are good" and "OH GOD RED LIGHT HERE ORANGE LIGHT THERE THE TIRE IS LOW SOMEONE HELP ME!" I guess the 35 degree weather brought the tire down low enough to pass the threshold.
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Nov 15, 2013 16:50
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Early TPMS systems just detected a speed difference, newer ones are actual pressure sensors (though sometimes they only wake up and start transmitting once the vehicle moves). Higher-end vehicles can give you the ability to see the actual pressure reported from each tire, instead of just sounding a chime and turning on an idiot light.
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Nov 15, 2013 17:59
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Installed an E60 545i shifter into my E39 540i and it is probably the best mod you can do for cheap in this car. Short, crisp shifts like never before. I also replaced all the assorted bushings and what the linkage hangs on to and cleaned everything. I picked up the refresh kit at pelican parts and the shifter from them. Pretty smooth sailing. Next up: LSD 
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Nov 16, 2013 06:36
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So a friend of mine is selling me his 2002 BMW 330Ci MSport, (he said is the Canadian one, whatever that means) and it looks really good, it has around 110,000 KMS, or 68,350 or so miles and is a 5 speed auto. On the test drive it felt really sweet: sweet sounding, sweet steering, it felt strong but it didn't feel as fast a my 2005 Legacy GT.... but it had ..**˜Something˜** , so before I pay him roughly 7,500 US for it I have a couple of questions: 1- What should I look for before buying? 2 - Any particular nasty gremlins I should know about abot these cars? 3 - Check engine always ON, he said it comes and goes, def will have it scanned. 4 - The oil light stays on after turning on the car longer than any car I've ever seen, like 2 o 3 seconds after. 5 - Handling was sublime, very nimble and the car felt very planted, am I hooked on BMWs? Pictures:      car is not reaaaally for sale, he is not desperate to sell it, I am very looking forward to owing it!
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Nov 17, 2013 00:03
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He also says the check engine disspears after you fill it up so, v0v
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Nov 17, 2013 00:08
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mulligan posted:1- What should I look for before buying? First and foremost, you need to know when the GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM was last replaced. Like the entire thing: hoses, water pump, radiator, expansion tank, heater core lines, everything. It basically is a ticking time bomb every 60-80k in these cars due to all of the plastic the germans use. Definitely have it scanned, I don't know if you have emissions in Canadaland, but if you do and it's like US emissions you won't pass (Post back with the codes and we can tell you more about them). Oil light could be a bad sensor or just low on oil, I haven't seen that before with mine. Handling will always be great with a BMW, but if it's on the original shocks/struts, they're due to be replaced soon, even if they don't feel like it. That tranny will probably blow up within the next 40k miles, but maybe not. The autos aren't particularly strong, but you're in the later production year when I think they got a bit better. This wiki covers everything, it's a bit much but it's spot on for everything it talks about : http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46#Buying_an_E46 Basically, you need to see every single maintenance record he has. The main problem with buying these cars is a lot of them are in maintenance debt. If the last owner slacked on maintenance, which a lot of people do because of how expensive it is, it's extremely easy to wind up dropping $500-2000 just catching up on the maintenance. Double that if you aren't comfortable working on your own car. They're fantastic cars, but they aren't one you just go out and buy like a Honda. You have to be patient and wait for the right one to come along.
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Nov 17, 2013 00:26
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Viper_3000 posted:First and foremost, you need to know when the GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM was last replaced. Like the entire thing: hoses, water pump, radiator, expansion tank, heater core lines, everything. It basically is a ticking time bomb every 60-80k in these cars due to all of the plastic the germans use.  The previous owner was a ill tempered Japanese dude who looked just like the guy from the Fast and Furios movies, my friend tells me he was very careful and had the entire brake system replaced, so I can at least I can MAYBE rest easy of the BMW YOUNG JACKASS syndrome, I'll check records beforehand. Should I change the ATF after buying it? Any recomended brands/fluids? I dont live in Canda or the US, I live in caribbean, so I guess the GDCS is even more important, Thank you! mulligan fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Nov 17, 2013 |
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Nov 17, 2013 00:38
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mulligan posted:
Johnny Tran? That dude built a mean s2000 in those movies. Yeah, check the records for sure. As for ATF Fluid, if the transmission feels like it's in good shape, I'd change it. If it feels like it's going, I'd leave it alone as you'd probably do more harm than good. Redline D4 or Dextron 6 is what most people with e46's prefer from what I've read.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:11
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