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Geirskogul posted:Stored bike run for the first time in a month, 8-mile ride up a hill. I change the oil more often than every six months because it only has 1.5 quarts (separate gearbox and primary). This came out of the breather: Well poo poo me. I've never seen anything like that before in either Ontario or the UK. I've always had relatively modern bikes though, so maybe there's something to that. I commute 10 miles of motorway each way and sometimes my bike has sat outside not running for weeks at a time. The Pegaso heated up fine, but the Multi is air cooled and in winter barely registers a temperature by the time I get to work. I'm a little worried about the Multi now, it's currently parked in my garage unheated while I'm away. It needs a service when I get back, I was going to get it done before I left but now I'm kind of glad I had to wait.
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Nov 14, 2013 23:13
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My short, milkshake inducing commute was over 4 years and 40k miles ago. The engine still runs fine and has minimal visible wear when I take it apart for valve adjustments so I don't think it's a big issue as long as you keep up on your oil changes.
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Nov 14, 2013 23:17
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Geirskogul posted:Stored bike run for the first time in a month, 8-mile ride up a hill. I change the oil more often than every six months because it only has 1.5 quarts (separate gearbox and primary). This came out of the breather: At least your chain got a free and effortless lube job?
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Nov 14, 2013 23:37
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Geirskogul posted:Stored bike run for the first time in a month, 8-mile ride up a hill. I change the oil more often than every six months because it only has 1.5 quarts (separate gearbox and primary). This came out of the breather: Did you ever consider that you're getting moisture in the breather and it combines with the oil on the way out? You can definitely get moisture buildup, but just ride the bike every so often to get the temp high enough and it'll be fine. I've had multiple bikes that have had that sort of buildup in the oil and the engines have still gone 50k-100k+ miles. The other thing is that if your dipstick is protected from the normal flow of at the top, there's no point where that condensation can really go anywhere, because it's just going to stick there. I found a similar sort of sludge in the oil cap of the multistrada 620, despite it regularly getting fully up to oil temp, because water got trapped in the stupid design of the oil cap and it didn't ever get cleaned out by hot, fresh oil. Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Nov 14, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 23:37
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Z3n posted:Did you ever consider that you're getting moisture in the breather and it combines with the oil on the way out? That looks pretty emulsified, dunno if just running through a moist breather tube would cause that. It's possible it's getting in that way though.
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Nov 14, 2013 23:39
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SaNChEzZ posted:That looks pretty emulsified, dunno if just running through a moist breather tube would cause that. It's possible it's getting in that way though. I've seen it happen on bikes with open breathers before, which is why I mentioned it. Plus, a Royal Enfield is really not in any meaningful way similar in standards of construction to a modern bike.
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Nov 14, 2013 23:41
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Geirskogul posted:this was in the PNW Now, I live on the west coast of Norway so I know all about salty weather running in from the west, but my bike has been treated worse yet fairs better than yours. Either there is a lactic devil slipping his oilfouling frappucino into your breather when noone sees or something very different is at play. I just don't but that a regional chemical chance in fuel and oil, causes so drastic differences in forlorn bikes. I think it must be ... MURDER
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Nov 15, 2013 00:29
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Z3n posted:I've seen it happen on bikes with open breathers before, which is why I mentioned it. The breather itself is sealed with a PCV-style (not a PCV valve itself, but a completely closed steel spring flapper valve) valve that keeps outside air out and only opens on the downstroke. That mayo-like substance can be found on the upper halves of both the CB650 (old, I know) and Enfield (older, I know) oil dipsticks after sitting for a month, and this was in northern Idaho. After riding daily for a few days on either bike, the mayo substance disappears. The Enfield only pukes out poo poo like that when there's gooey mayo in the upper half of the oil tank. When it's all gone, the oil can drain back down even with the pressure of operation before it gets puked out. When the mayo is there, it clogs the breather like a smoker's aorta and prevents drainage back down. The CB650's breather design doesn't allow that to happen, as it's on the valve cover where constant flow of oil keeps it from building up. It's still there, though, unless it's brought up to temp fully for awhile every now and again, and it gets worse on both bikes with repeated short trips. It was just a suggestion, and I was asked for proof because thought it "was an urban legend."  Ola posted:Now, I live on the west coast of Norway so I know all about salty weather running in from the west, but my bike has been treated worse yet fairs better than yours. Either there is a lactic devil slipping his oilfouling frappucino into your breather when noone sees or something very different is at play. I just don't but that a regional chemical chance in fuel and oil, causes so drastic differences in forlorn bikes. I think it must be ... MURDER It can happen in any engine, even with cars, that experience repeated short, not-fully-hot trips. Moisture will condense in the engine airspaces as it cools. It's all up to how the engine design and the operator treat it to decide where it goes. The only reason it's so obvious on the Enfield is because of its old design. Newer designs flush it out and boil it off much more quickly, but it can still happen. I was just suggesting changing oil every six months or so on a motorcycle as a precaution; it's not like I was asking people to kill their goddamn firstborn. As Z3n said, moisture-mayo is a thing that happens, and I'm saying that it's just yet another reason to change the oil on a schedule if you're not sure of the condition of it, as in the original example (not ridden since May until now). Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Nov 15, 2013 |
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Nov 15, 2013 00:29
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The Buell XBs are prone to develop a milkshake primary and gearbox; it has an open gearbox breather and the gearbox/primary oil is separate from the crankcase oil so it takes longer to warm up and boil it off. It happens when you short trip it and whip the oil up with the moisture. If it's being stored and not run, it won't be a problem.
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Nov 15, 2013 01:03
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Geirskogul posted:The breather itself is sealed with a PCV-style (not a PCV valve itself, but a completely closed steel spring flapper valve) valve that keeps outside air out and only opens on the downstroke. That mayo-like substance can be found on the upper halves of both the CB650 (old, I know) and Enfield (older, I know) oil dipsticks after sitting for a month, and this was in northern Idaho. After riding daily for a few days on either bike, the mayo substance disappears. I guess what I'm trying to get at here is I think this happens regardless...the design of the bike is what determines how obvious it is. If you have a crankcase design that doesn't really let oil out through a breather, then it's really difficult to detect this sort of thing - it's the older designs that make it really obvious. It seems like it's an alarming thing, but ultimately doesn't really affect the lubrication qualities of the oil.
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Nov 15, 2013 01:11
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Thanks for the advice on the last page gents. I am keeping the chain lubed and keeping an eye on all the basic maintenance stuff, and will take it for a full oil change shortly anyway. With the mud I was more worried I may need to clean and degrease the chain, but it seems I was overreacting which is good to know!
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Nov 15, 2013 06:12
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How can I stop my chain from rusting? Right bike is sitting under a bike cover outside on tiled patio and I noticed yesterday a bunch of surface rust on the chain from rain splashing back (since it was just on the bottom half of the chain). I wiped the chain down with a ton of lube and wiped off the worst of the rust on the outside of the links but its all over the rollers too. I'm thinking of getting a brush and trying to remove the worst of the rust on the rollers and then just liberally applying more lube, motor oil or such. I have some CLP for cleaning firearms that I don't use or care about wasting, and I've read its meant to remove/prevent rust. I'm a little hesitant putting anything but lube on there in case it eats away at o-rings. This is a brand new chain with less than 300 miles on it at this point. We will hopefully be moving into a new place within the next ~2 months where it will live in a shed, but until then I don't want it rusting away. There isn't any other rust I can see on the bike elsewhere. Even the brake rotors just have a very slight patina so not sure why the chain is rusting this badly.
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Nov 15, 2013 14:51
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GanjamonII posted:How can I stop my chain from rusting? Apply plenty of lube and ride as often as possible. Don't worry about the rust on the rollers, it'll be gone literally in seconds once you ride the bike. Make sure you actually apply the lube to the rollers, every other part of the chain is lubed internally from the factory, but the rollers should always have a thin coating of lube on them. Perhaps the chain lube you're using is too thin. I use cheap-rear end SAE50 motor oil with good results, I know Z3n uses gear oil that's probably right around the same viscosity. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Nov 15, 2013 |
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Nov 15, 2013 15:13
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Why not just use a heavy coat of chain wax over the winter and switch back to a normal teflon lube or whatever come riding season?
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Nov 15, 2013 16:49
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Awful advice in this thread recently. What you're gonna want to do is remove your chain and bring it inside for the winter. Keep it in a warm, dry place, and periodically hook it up to a battery tender.
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Nov 15, 2013 17:02
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nsaP posted:Awful advice in this thread recently. Don't leave it on the concrete cause the concrete discharges the chain!  But seriously...some rust on the side plates is no big deal. You can use some gear or motor oil, pour some in a rag, akd give the entire chain a light coat and it'll keep it from rusting.
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Nov 15, 2013 17:32
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nsaP posted:Awful advice in this thread recently. Winter is the best time to bring the chain indoors for a complete strip and rebuild. Just pick up some replacement rivets, punch out the old ones and soak each link in a mix of wintergreen oil and acetone. You don't want to cross-contaminate the links though, so soak each one separately. Protip: use some old ice trays to keep them in their own cleansing bath. Once they have soaked for at least 24 hours, you can polish them up and rebuild the chain. Because the links wear in reference to each other, it's super important to keep the links in order. Use a sharp scratch awl to number each one, since a Sharpie mark will rub off during the polishing stage. HTH
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Nov 15, 2013 18:04
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I've been throwing mine in a rock polisher for years and haven't had the slightest problem. With the chains, the stupid rock polishers keep breaking.
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Nov 15, 2013 18:07
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^^ I do this too. edit: not whatever z3n is saying - the thing before that.
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Nov 15, 2013 18:09
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Motorcycle specific chains, much like the tyres, are a conspiracy to gently caress over the little man. Chainsaw chains of the correct pitch and width will do the job fine and can be had from many agricultural machinery suppliers.
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Nov 15, 2013 18:25
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I just ignore the fact that I have a chain. It reduces maintenance and I don't think rust is an issue either (because I never look you see). I know it's time to replace it when it flys off and wraps around my calf at freeway speeds. You guys over complicate everything, jeeze.
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Nov 15, 2013 19:23
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Yeah if Obamacare is going to force me to get health insurance I'm going to show them by not replacing my chain until it does grievous trauma to my body. Take that, communism. 
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Nov 15, 2013 19:24
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I tried hooking the chain up to my batter tender in my in-laws kitchen. I think I did something wrong though because now that outlet doesn't work and the battery tender light is just flashing red no matter what I plug it into. Maybe it was because I put the chain into a tray of used motor oil at the time? I don't know, motorcycles suck, I think I am done with riding. (rereading that original post yes it is pretty stupid question to ask)
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Nov 15, 2013 19:42
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You should really coat your entire vehicle in cosmoline when you aren't riding it. Haha, I had to clean a bunch of that stuff off a Porsche 914 that had been stored for 25 years. Too bad it didn't keep the mice out.
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Nov 15, 2013 20:10
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GanjamonII posted:(rereading that original post yes it is pretty stupid question to ask) Nah man I would be annoyed by chain rusting too.
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Nov 15, 2013 20:20
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Bugdrvr posted:I just ignore the fact that I have a chain. It reduces maintenance and I don't think rust is an issue either (because I never look you see). I know it's time to replace it when it flys off and wraps around my calf at freeway speeds. Nah, it usually just fires off down the road behind you.
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Nov 15, 2013 21:52
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SaNChEzZ posted:Instinct tells me it's the wormgear in your speedo pickup, or the cable itself. My CX500 whined like a crying baby when the speedo was on it's way out. Spot on with the cable diagnosis--took a closer look at the cables to discover that the one to the tach is loose. Pushed the cable in and tightened up the collar, easiest fix in the world. Everything works fine now! Thanks for the help identifying it!
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Nov 16, 2013 00:47
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Coredump posted:Nah man I would be annoyed by chain rusting too. Same here. Belts are better.
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Nov 16, 2013 01:14
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Shaft supremacy 
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Nov 16, 2013 01:29
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slidebite posted:Shaft supremacy Yes, we all know what you think.
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Nov 16, 2013 01:34
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Riddle me this - what's that yellow stuff weeping from the breather? Pretty sure it isn't an emulsion, I took the photo after riding through the desert for 3 days and the bike doesn't run any coolant. Does Castrol synthetic oil suck?
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Nov 16, 2013 01:41
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slidebite posted:
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Nov 16, 2013 04:05
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clutchpuck posted:Riddle me this - what's that yellow stuff weeping from the breather? That's what my car's breather gunk looks like.  I wouldn't think much of it.
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Nov 16, 2013 04:15
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clutchpuck posted:Riddle me this - what's that yellow stuff weeping from the breather? buell.jpeg teamed with buell.txt all in one post!  It won't be the type of oil. Seems pretty normal, though I'm hard pressed to come up with a scientific explanation for it being there. Catch it in bottle!
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Nov 16, 2013 11:12
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I'm going to hijack this photo and ask whether it's important that both springs are on the exhaust? It seems I have only one.
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Nov 16, 2013 17:18
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I cleaned the poo poo out of my bike for winter prep. Are all these rags coated in super heavy grease/grime/simple green/engine degreaser machine washable or should I just toss em?
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Nov 17, 2013 00:57
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I think they're washable, you just don't wanna wash em along with anything nice.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:01
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Put double the amount of detergent in and don't use softener (never use softener on thing you want to be absorbent), job done. Oh you might want to run a rinse or two through the machine with it empty just to get rid of any nasties left lurking in the filter.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:07
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Or, since you can buy a bundle of rags for like $1 or just cut up some old tee shirts, toss 'em.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:09
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Safety Dance posted:Or, since you can buy a bundle of rags for like $1 or just cut up some old tee shirts, toss 'em. Yeah, I go through enough cotton undershirts that I just use those. If something was suffused with grease or any particularly odorous chemicals, I wouldn't run it in my personal washer. If I wasn't just tossing it I'd take it to a laundromat (probably not) or wash it by hand.
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Nov 17, 2013 01:18
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