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JayKay posted:'00 Aero with 128k in Midnight Blue? I might need to check my garage to ensure you didn't steal my car. She's as dark as the night itself, Mayor. She is quite black. nigga crab pollock posted:How would I fix it? Respray, as mentioned. You're not going to have any luck touching that up. My bumpers' clearcoat is gone so I'm trying to figure how to get that off and give it a decent coat without it looking like complete crap. First things, though:
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Oct 26, 2013 00:55
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Welp, just impulse bought this. Tell me I haven't made a £1700 mistake?   1991 900 FPT, with 195k on the clock.
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Oct 26, 2013 14:25
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Welp, just impulse bought this. Tell me I haven't made a £1700 mistake?
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Oct 27, 2013 03:34
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Is it possible via fuse to get the headlight dial on 9-5's to go from Off > Parking Lights Only > Headlights? Or is this a Tech II issue? (Or is this even possible?) The DRL fuse has already been pulled so right now it's Off > Headlights > Headlights. JayKay fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 00:48
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JayKay posted:The DRL fuse has already been pulled so right now it's Off > Headlights > Headlights. That should be Off-DRLs-Headlights if you pulled the fuse. We're (still) talking first gen, right? You might want to pull out the ohmmeter.
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Oct 28, 2013 15:10
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West SAAB Story posted:That should be Off-DRLs-Headlights if you pulled the fuse. We're (still) talking first gen, right? '00 9-5 Aero. Yup on both counts. I just wish the center switch position would be parking lights only with no headlights. That's how it was on the Saabaru.
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Oct 28, 2013 22:03
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JayKay posted:'00 9-5 Aero. You could remove those bulbs, or have someone with a TechII change the setting to Euro 1 (if memory is correct).
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Oct 28, 2013 22:50
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I managed to clip the garage door with my driver's side view mirror while backing up and cracked off a few pieces the very brittle plastic of the mirror frame. The cover and glass are perfectly fine. How hard is it to replace said plastic? Not a huge issue, just a cosmetic one that's going to nag me. Edit: Nevermind, it's apparently really easy to do. Just remove window trim, unhook the mirror harness, find the 3 torx behind foam insulation, find small trim screw, done. JayKay fucked around with this message at 12:35 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 12:23
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JayKay posted:I managed to clip the garage door with my driver's side view mirror while backing up and cracked off a few pieces the very brittle plastic of the mirror frame. The cover and glass are perfectly fine. Posting anyhow, since I bothered to get you this, you ingrate! E: I like how it mentions the rear view for the C&P job here. Sure, it technically is, but that's not what we call it! Kudos, guys. Viggen fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 12:40
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Haha thanks. Now the question is do I either: A) Leave it be B) Just buy a new frame ($40ish) C) Buy a whole used assembly ($50-$75) I'm thinking A) until I can find a cheap C) that matches my car.
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Oct 30, 2013 12:55
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JayKay posted:Haha thanks. Now the question is do I either: You'll never find a perfect B/C. If it isn't laggy/etc on move, I'd consider B, unless C was pennies more. Just start watching for one, then hit everything externally with some back to black when you replace it.
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Oct 30, 2013 13:06
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Yaaaaaay window roller bullshit.. I think I have that fix down to 10 minutes these days, I've done my window rollers all around and a couple of them twice. It's even more fun if the window roller holds on a bit and bends the actuator arm.. That's a day at pick n pull to fix.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:52
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Well, that was fun. Master cylinder decided to fail out on me so I smashed the front end of my wagon into the rear bumper of a Silverado 2500 fortunately it was a less than 5 mpg accident. Saab damage = all front lights and grille need to be replaced. Silverado damage = what damage? gently caress yo Saab nigga! Off to Stockton pick n pull to grab a new set of lights and a grille this evening and ordered a new master cylinder a few minutes ago. The pedal has been feeling a little "off" for a day or two, so I've been giving extra room. Usually it's an I'll replace it this weekend sort of thing, I've never had one just up and poo poo out so spectacularly in 2 days. Fortunately it's out in the country and it was a heavy duty work truck and the guy driving it was the farmer instead of a hand. I apologized profusely, made sure he was ok and got out my insurance information. He just laughed, asked if I was good, looked at his bumper and said,"Hell, I don't see poo poo on my bumper that it didn't already have.. You should get a heavy duty somebitch like this. hahahaha" Nobody was hurt and we both had a good laugh. A++++ experience would hit again. Not really, but at least it was on a back country road since that's my daily commute.
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Oct 30, 2013 19:25
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keykey posted:Yaaaaaay window roller bullshit.. I think I have that fix down to 10 minutes these days, I've done my window rollers all around and a couple of them twice. It's even more fun if the window roller holds on a bit and bends the actuator arm.. That's a day at pick n pull to fix. I've found that using a little dremel on the inner bit where there are burrs helps emmensely when you have a problem child which didn't always want to roll down, and/or a PO has forced it. My last NG900 was obviously running on one roller for a long time, and it chewed a nice groove into it. I ground it down ever so slightly on either side, and lubed it up - never had another problem with it. Also, Scantech rollers last longer. The Uro built ones that I've run into have softer plastic and generally fall apart within a year or two. Viggens' Window Roller Tip: DO NOT REMOVE THE GODDAMN CLIPS! Almost every FAQ/howto I've seen says to remove the clip, then to stick it back on. Do NOT do that! Just slide the roller into place, hold it together, and gently squeeze it into place with a pair of pliers. It will click TWICE. The battery that came in the OG 9-5 (Not 95, as that annoys meatpimp) flatlined. It was obviously a used/resell with dead cells. Of course it has a build date of 9/11.   keykey posted:Well, that was fun. Master cylinder decided to fail out on me so I smashed the front end of my wagon into the rear bumper of a Silverado 2500 Ouch. Well, there isn't/wasn't much left of my silver LPT, but I'm having my claims adjuster contact me with her final resting place - so I can hopefully strip a few interior parts off. The grill and front bumper cover were good, but I don't think any of the lights survived. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 19:56
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West SAAB Story posted:Viggens' Window Roller Tip: DO NOT REMOVE THE GODDAMN CLIPS! That is exactly right! Just pop off the window molding, unscrew 3 torx screws, slide door panel off, reach in, take out old roller/clip, slide new roller where it aligns to pivot point on scissor arm, push together, put everything back together. I learned this the hard way after breaking the plastic on 2 new clips trying to take the clip out then slide it on. First, it's a pain in the rear end, second it stresses the new part too much which is inevitably plastic.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:01
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Anyone have any experience with a P1743 code that trips the gearbox malfunction message on a 2004 9-3? 143k miles, just came on yesterday, transmission seems to be working fine, was due for a transmission fluid change so I went ahead and did that today. Just wondering if it's a serious tranny problem or another "Saab electrical" issue. Between this and random yet routine pedal/throttle sensor CELs/limp mode, I'm really close to being done with it.
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Oct 30, 2013 22:18
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new home, old colors, same Arsenal
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pimpslap posted:Anyone have any experience with a P1743 code that trips the gearbox malfunction message on a 2004 9-3? 143k miles, just came on yesterday, transmission seems to be working fine, was due for a transmission fluid change so I went ahead and did that today. Just wondering if it's a serious tranny problem or another "Saab electrical" issue. Between this and random yet routine pedal/throttle sensor CELs/limp mode, I'm really close to being done with it. Yay for TCM problems. Pretty sure you've got a 5 speed slushbox in that, which isn't my forte. If it was a 4 speed, well, you'd likely have a $10 solenoid going bad. You're going to need/want someone with a Tech2 to get in there.
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Oct 31, 2013 00:50
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Felt a bit of a breeze today after turning off the default ACC settings. Decided to run an ACC test. 1 fault, code 21. flap stepper motor. It begins again.  Nov Update: I've just noticed that I don't have seat warmers in this car.  v- Thanks. I've learned to completely bypass EEuro and StateOfNine for anything and everything. Digikey also has good batteries for repairing NG900, OG93/5 alarms. I don't have it bookmarked anymore, though. E2: Here is the cheapest at Mouser. If your caps have also gone to poo poo, here they are: 10 uf, 50V (C1) 220 uf, 10V (C2) 330 uf, 25V (C4) Viggen fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Nov 3, 2013 |
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Oct 31, 2013 20:37
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If anyone is needing instrument panel lights, here are some leads to avoid paying $texas from eeuroparts or similar. I got a few of each of these to replace burnt out ones, since any pulls from the junkyard are probably all burnt out too. Backlight bulbs for SID LCD $0.88 at Mouser (  at eeuroparts)Backlight bulbs for ACC panel and SID buttons $0.89 at Mouser ($11 at eeuroparts) Or if you want to search elsewhere, keywords are "neo-wedge" base and "T-1 1/2" bulb size.
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Nov 3, 2013 04:17
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Got my c900 FPT home last night after a week down south with work after I picked it up. Drove it 250 miles up the motorway with zero problems, and it was surprisingly comfortable and quiet! Obvious Things I need to fix: Passenger door central locking. Indicator stalk (doesn't stay on when indicating right - could be because the steering wheel doesn't seem 100% straight) Headlining Investigate whether the trunk is leaking Other stuff: General check of everything - came with a Haynes manual so I'm going to work my way through the servicing and see what might need doing. Check the tracking and alignment - left front seems to be wearing more than the others Investigate the hooting noise under full boost. Initial searches seem to indicate a dodgy bypass valve. Investigate occasional clunking from rear under acceleration. Overall I'm pretty happy!
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Nov 9, 2013 13:25
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Overall I'm pretty happy! See if you can find a copy of the Bentley manual. You should be able to get one for ~ #20 if not cheaper. I was going to offer to give you my grey headliner material, but it'd cost far too much to post to be worthwhile. People used to get annoyed when I'd call my LPT an LPT, but on this side of the pond nobody really qualifies their car as LPT/FPT, except when implied by using the Aero designation. We're glad you enjoy your new
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Nov 9, 2013 15:44
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l also need to figure out what to wire up to the EXTRA button, which is endlessly amusing to me 
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Nov 9, 2013 15:49
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Sabmo posted:Late to the party here, but I might be able to provide some suggestions - I have two 9000 Aeros, one slightly modded. It's an auto for now. It has a moonroof, and those neat exposed lug aero wheels. I plan on keeping this car forever, so throwing a whole lot of money at it sounds like a plan.
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Nov 9, 2013 20:13
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:l also need to figure out what to wire up to the EXTRA button, which is endlessly amusing to me Assuming that a c900 is now pretty much the same age as my 99's were when i first got them - consider wiring it to manually override the cooling fans for when the thermostatic switch stops working!  On my 99T I now have 2 EXTRA buttons. One manually starts the cooling fans and one overrides the cold start injector so I can get it started easier!
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Nov 9, 2013 20:24
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How difficult of a job is refreshing the #7, #15, #17 bushings in the rear?
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Nov 10, 2013 19:35
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Indicator stalk (doesn't stay on when indicating right - could be because the steering wheel doesn't seem 100% straight) http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237505
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Nov 10, 2013 23:12
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I'm having the 'not quite right' issue with my turn signal stalk on the new Aero. There is no rhyme or reason, but sometimes it absolutely refuses to let me latch the turn signal on. Since I've become accustomed to holding my hand near the stalk, I've not bothered to investigate the cause, yet.
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Nov 10, 2013 23:59
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I replaced the indicator switch. Everything works now, but I can't get the old one to fail now that it is out of the car.  How did I inherit the only 95 Aero purchased without heated seats? Anyone near good junk yards that could give me a price estimate for two heater elements (4718524) and the heater switches (5471024) shipped to 89501? E: Also, anyone have a cross compatibility for bulb 44-66-439? The lights behind the headlight switch are dead.
Viggen fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Nov 15, 2013 |
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Nov 15, 2013 21:27
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I've never tried it, but this bulb looks close to a match: http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LP-70/14V-NEO-WEDGE-BASE-LAMP/1.html
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Nov 16, 2013 02:37
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Mario posted:I've never tried it, but this bulb looks close to a match: Hmm. I have been considering trying this one to see if its good for anything..
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Nov 16, 2013 22:04
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My 07 9-3 has a battery drain. Alternator checks ok, battery isn't even a year old and the battery is dead by morning. I'm charging the battery back up right now and ill check to see how bad the draw is, but I'm alone with my kids and can't really touch it at the moment. Are there common problems or things I should check so I can be prepared? This blows I start a new job monday and I need this thing to work.
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Nov 17, 2013 22:03
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I'm assuming that you don't have an ATM fuse style circuit tester, or a Harbor Freight anywhere nearby to pick one up. In which case, I'd suggest use of an ohmmeter inline and start pulling fuses until it stops.
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Nov 17, 2013 22:43
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West SAAB Story posted:I'm assuming that you don't have an ATM fuse style circuit tester, or a Harbor Freight anywhere nearby to pick one up. In which case, I'd suggest use of an ohmmeter inline and start pulling fuses until it stops. Yeah I'm just gonna inline it and pull fuses.
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Nov 17, 2013 23:15
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If you have a meter with a decent low-voltage range, you can use the probes on each leg of the blade fuse while the fuse is still installed. A voltage drop through the fuse itself will exist in proportion to the actual current draw in that circuit. This is less likely to confound the problem when dealing with all of the computer-controlled modules. http://www.iatn.net/forums/13/39089/draw-test-using-voltage-drop
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Nov 17, 2013 23:23
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Mario posted:If you have a meter with a decent low-voltage range, you can use the probes on each leg of the blade fuse while the fuse is still installed. A voltage drop through the fuse itself will exist in proportion to the actual current draw in that circuit. This is less likely to confound the problem when dealing with all of the computer-controlled modules. Huh. As long as I've been working around electrical I've never tried it this way.
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Nov 17, 2013 23:35
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Hi all, been directed here from the post your car thread so here goes... 2000 9-5 Aero, 250k km, BSR exhaust and BSR 270bhp tune (running standard tune at the moment), loaded with electric things which will break.    Having some problems with power, the car seems weak. West SAAB Story suggested the following: West SAAB Story posted:Does the turbo needle move at all? Does it go up to the yellow, and just stick there? You could have a leak almost anywhere. Unfortunately it did not seem to work, I thought the car felt faster but after pulling the bolt out I realised it was the same (I guess I just got really excited about the bolt and the hose, but that is for another thread). The little turbo gauge thing only goes just into the yellow, the car pulls well on partial (~40-50% throttle, until the turbo needle goes into the yellow, then it just stops) but anything above that and nothing happens, it just stays the same. That being said, it still feels low on power on partial.
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Nov 18, 2013 17:51
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Wait, did I actually post something useful? Yeah, I'm surprised too.
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Flying_Dane posted:The little turbo gauge thing only goes just into the yellow, the car pulls well on partial (~40-50% throttle, until the turbo needle goes into the yellow, then it just stops) but anything above that and nothing happens, it just stays the same. Welcome to the SAAB thread! You'll find a plethora of both us whinging armchair, and a handful of legit mechanics here. It sure sounds like an exhaust leak to me. It doesn't seem to be the BCV, or a secondary check valve, since you've just tested for that. v vThis is out of my league - I'd default now to a smoke test. You can try the 'blow cigar smoke into the intake and look for leaks' means, but I've never been able to do that, myself. In my opinion, you pretty much want to take it to someone knowledgeable with the ability to smoke the car.. but others here may have a few other ideas to check, first.
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Nov 18, 2013 18:01
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My Saab doesn't have any draw, so I gave the battery a 10 amp charge for an hour and it wouldn't crank. It's like the battery rapidly shat itself. I found that out last night, way past when O'reilly's is closed. Today after work I took the battery down and they said they would need to test it, cool, yeah fine, but it could take up to an hour and a half. What? Which means I won't be able to pick up a replacement tonight since my wife needs to use the only working car 'till 9:00. I thought they had those portable *ding* "good" *ding* "bad" readers. What the gently caress, man! loving battery isn't even a year old.
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Nov 19, 2013 03:24
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Aeka 2.0 posted:loving battery isn't even a year old. Had the same issue on my factory battery in the '08 9-5. So, you've got this all taken care of? Keep in mind that used batteries that have been 'tested good' may give you a lifeline a lot cheaper than a new one.. I have a used battery in the 2K, and it works perfectly fine. Hell, the build date isn't even two years ago. One of the joyous things i forgot about was that the 99 & 2000 fog lamps have two lamps in them. The PO ground the wiring off (and the front bumper spoiler) by driving like a fiend when parking on a hill for several years. I'm not sure how far back the remaining wiring is, because I'm not seeing it (easily) on the passenger side. I'm going to need to get this up on a rack.. my head is too drat fat to fit under this beast.
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Nov 20, 2013 21:29
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Yeah all sorted. loving batteries, man.
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Nov 21, 2013 05:33
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