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bowling 4 buttcoins posted:Freakin jelly. Let me know if you want a Roush AB for super cheap, it should bolt right up. If I didn't already have the Borla Type S AB, I would really be tempted to make an offer. I am researching long tube headers and mid pipe at the moment. A pulley and new tune is on the agenda next year. I really need a little more rubber on the road and some suspension goodies, though. Traction is at a premium as it is
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Nov 10, 2013 23:18
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 GT/CS front valance and fogs installed for the last C&C of 2013.
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Nov 10, 2013 23:29
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Radiohead71 posted:Yeah, I have been struggling a lot with the "I want something new" bug. I get it every 2-3 years. I really want an SUV, but I just paid off my 11 GT, so I think I will keep it as long as I can. I really love the car and would probably hate myself if I got something different. If you really really have to get an SUV, you have to test drive the Denali/Escalade (later year Tahoes) with the 6.2L. I know, I know, GM build quality, etc, but god drat, if you want to drive an SUV that can jump when you hit the gas and still pull a decent sized trailer, you are really hard pressed to find a better deal.
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Nov 11, 2013 03:49
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BrokenKnucklez posted:If you really really have to get an SUV, you have to test drive the Denali/Escalade (later year Tahoes) with the 6.2L. I know, I know, GM build quality, etc, but god drat, if you want to drive an SUV that can jump when you hit the gas and still pull a decent sized trailer, you are really hard pressed to find a better deal. The SRT-8 cherokee gives you 7200lbs towing, launch control, and 6/4 pot brakes with 15/14 inch rotors. It's also cheaper than an escalade.
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Nov 11, 2013 05:04
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Tide posted:I think the normal tuner kits require injectors and a custom tune. But since it comes with the injectors, it looks like all it needs is the tune. A BAP probably wouldn't be a bad idea. Paxton Beefcake special + ID1000s and a Roush (previously Phase 3) boost a pump incoming. Sadly these toys will just sit in a box until I have the time to install it, I don't think you want to drive to CA :P
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Nov 13, 2013 20:48
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Powershift posted:The SRT-8 cherokee gives you 7200lbs towing, launch control, and 6/4 pot brakes with 15/14 inch rotors. Yeah but the Escalade can totally whomp a c300 sport.  (Why is that on their website?!) e; I'm the weirdo that would cross shop an SRT8 Jeep and a Mustang GT. REDjackeT fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 22:31
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bowling 4 buttcoins posted:Paxton Beefcake special + ID1000s and a Roush (previously Phase 3) boost a pump incoming. Sadly these toys will just sit in a box until I have the time to install it, I don't think you want to drive to CA :P NICE Yeah, no. Cali is too far.
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Nov 13, 2013 22:54
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Powershift posted:The SRT-8 cherokee gives you 7200lbs towing, launch control, and 6/4 pot brakes with 15/14 inch rotors. I am shocked that the tow rating is that high on the new Grand Cherokee. I could have sworn it was only 5000... And the previous SRT8 was only rated for something silly low like 3700. If I am going to piss away money on fuel, I better have all the capacity that I plan to use.
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Nov 14, 2013 03:11
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Boss 302S flybys  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6DVhDl1G3_o&t=638s 10m40s if it doesn't start there Longpig Bard fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Nov 15, 2013 |
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Nov 14, 2013 04:37
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I am shocked that the tow rating is that high on the new Grand Cherokee. I could have sworn it was only 5000... And the previous SRT8 was only rated for something silly low like 3700. The early WK2's were still using the merc 5-speed. The 2014's are using the ZF 8HP70 which are apparently ok with a 470hp 5150 lbs bus towing 7200 lbs.
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Nov 15, 2013 06:35
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Oh sweet. I've been putting off greasing my Strano sway bar bushings because I thought they were more under the center and I'd have to get under the car. But instead I saw them just a foot behind the rotors when swapping my track pads out.
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Nov 17, 2013 22:04
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 Whisper sweet nothings in my ear.
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Nov 19, 2013 04:25
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That is one big snail. I would like to know more...
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Nov 19, 2013 13:39
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Ford to unveil next-generation Mustang Dec. 5 http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2013/11/19/2015-ford-mustang-redesign-unveiling/3644989/
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Nov 20, 2013 01:55
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Beautiful.
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Nov 20, 2013 02:32
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Radiohead71 posted:That is one big snail. I would like to know more... Hunting for 3.6 pulley and Vortech competition intake. I feel awful but its all just going to sit in the box until I have the time to install. AED is hooking me up with a base map so I can limp to Sacramento for tuning.
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Nov 20, 2013 18:49
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I'd like some advice on a possible purchase, mustang goons. The car in question is a 1969 Mustang Grande coupe, with (apparently) numbers matching engine and body. The Kijiji ad for the car in question (though it's not very informative): http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-1969-Ford-Mustang-Coupe-W0QQAdIdZ467588743 Just to make it clear, the car is in Ontario, and I am a Canadian living in Ontario. I went out to look at it, and I'm cautious. It's a car I've always wanted, and I'm trying to not be duped into buying a heap on wheels. However, my car knowledge is not that great. Just over five years ago the car got appraised in Good-Fair condition and valued at about $15,000. In Ontario, appraisals are only good for five years, and you need a professional one done in order to insure the vehicle. The owner says he's had the car for 32 years, and that everything in it that could be original is. He's selling it because he's out of work and needs the money. He claims to have stored it inside always, never even taking it out in the rain. I didn't pour any water down the cowl, but he claims it doesn't leak. However, the old appraisal he showed me says that it appears a little rusty, with a repair job attempted using black paint. After doing some more research, I feel like it's more a Condition 4 vehicle, and therefore probably not worth the 10 Gs he's asking for it. It's clearly an older restoration that's begun to deteriorate in places. The paint's close to a decade old, and I noticed several major cracks and chips in it. The glass he claims is all original, and I could find no chips or cracks in any of it. There's also the super amateur airbrushed horse on the fake hood scoop. It's a botched job, apparently. Artist wasn't good enough to put a semi-nude woman on the horse. It's been in one fender bender while in his possession, and one fender has been replaced with a fiberglass replica. He said he changed the frame out to some sort of tube or unibody thing for greater durability. The shock towers look okay, with only some surface rust as near as I could tell. He replaced the original 2 barrel carb with a Holley 4 barrel, and obviously put a new air filter and whatnot on it. He also rebuilt the engine around 30,000 miles ago, and says the transmission has a shift kit in it. His ad also claims no rust, but I did see some. Most of it appears to be surface rust, but there is a hole probably a bit bigger than a silver dollar beneath the back seat going all the way through. It has the original upholstery in the cabin, and there is a 6-inch tear in it over the passenger-side window. there was also a tear in the carpet above the floor pans that let me look at them, and I'm not sure about their condition. The old appraisal says they're ok, but I saw a lot of brownish-red down there. I couldn't see any holes going all the way through, however. The back tires need replacing soon, but he said he'd include two that are already on rims, and he showed me these. They appeared to have a good amount of tread left. Front disc brakes have recently been replaced, but he tells me the rear drums also need replacing (what's that? a $500 job or thereabouts?). Mechanically, the car appears sound. It starts up right away, without touching the gas at all, and runs without any strange noises that I could discern. He took me out for a brief drive, and I also didn't notice any strange noises or motions. The heat in the car doesn't work. The gauges seem okay, but the back lighting on them doesn't work. He thinks it's a blown fuse, but can't check because of knee replacement surgery or some such. The driver-side turn signal on the front also didn't work, but that's probably just a burnt-out bulb. In any case, I told him I'd contact him on/by Friday with my decision. My current plan is to get him to have the car re-appraised and see what it's valued at now. My hopes are basically to find a car that will require a fairly minimal amount of work to get back on the road, and so I'm not sure this is the one for me. I'm not looking for a trailer queen or show car, more a daily driver during summer. Thoughts?
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Nov 21, 2013 01:41
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Faded Mars posted:He said he changed the frame out to some sort of tube or unibody thing for greater durability. Run. Edit: The car has many other red flags, but that one is the worst.
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Nov 21, 2013 08:21
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All right. It felt like there were a few too many problems, especially at that price. I guess I'll just take this as an opportunity to save up more and keep learning about these cars. I'm sure one will come along at some point.
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Nov 21, 2013 12:17
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Faded Mars posted:All right. It felt like there were a few too many problems, especially at that price. I guess I'll just take this as an opportunity to save up more and keep learning about these cars. I'm sure one will come along at some point. But... but... what about that sweet airbrushed hood scoop?!
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Nov 21, 2013 16:54
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Hah, I know, right? There definitely would have been some black paint going over that masterpiece had I gone through with the purchase.
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Nov 21, 2013 18:09
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See if you can buy the hood, then hang it in your garage
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Nov 22, 2013 02:44
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frozenphil posted:Run. Would this be a red flag if it was subframe connectors or a tubular K member?
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Nov 22, 2013 03:18
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Would this be a red flag if it was subframe connectors or a tubular K member? Subframe connectors are fine, but k-members should be looked at for quality of work. K-members can be a perfectly nice upgrade, just check it out.
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Nov 24, 2013 22:11
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I found another car I’d like your opinions on, mustang goons. This time, I took a bunch of pictures: http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/FadedMarsPhotos/library/67%20Coupe It’s a 1967 Coupe. I also feel better about this one, not nearly so many misgivings as with that ’69 I posted before. The seller is asking $8600 for it. He showed me the appraisal certificate (dated May ’13) and it’s appraised at $17200, with pretty much everything being listed in “Excellent” condition, excepting the interior. Third owner of the vehicle is selling because of a new kid, and he has a ’69 coupe he’s restoring. Again, I’m in Ontario, Canada. It’s an original, numbers-matching 289 2V. The paintjob is decent, with only a bit of bubbling on the roof over the driver side. I couldn’t see any obvious chips or scratches like with the ’69. The seller removed the frame on the driver’s side and welded a new piece in, since the old one had a bunch of filler in it. He also put in a new driver-side shock tower, since the old one was rusted out. The car is relatively rust free, with only some surface stuff I could see on the bottom of the floor pans and the trunk. It does not leak from the cowl vent. It has discs up front, drums in back. And here’s where the only major mechanical problem seems to lie: the driver-side lower control arm requires repair. It has popped out of position. I have a picture of it in the album linked above. According to the seller, this needs a new o-ring and to be welded back into place. It seems like a relatively easy fix. Is it? I looked at the car in -1 Celsius weather, and it took a few tries to start. When it did catch, everything sounded normal. The car is still on its points ignition system. All the gauges work except for the gas gauge. The horn works as well. The interior is a little rough with a pretty bad tear in the driver’s seat. The previous owner installed a CD player as well as some speakers. Aside from the surface rust you can see on the underside of the car, everything looked good. Nothing on the bottoms of the doors. The rockers look discolored, but there was no rust on them. The wheel wells seemed a bit dirty, but he’d been using it as his driver until that lower control arm broke. The frame looked pretty solid from what I could see of it. So, should I run away from this car as well, or is it worth putting an offer in on?
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Nov 26, 2013 18:21
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I know nothing about old Mustangs but I can't help but wonder why the guy is asking for half of its supposed appraisal value. Wanting to move the car or not, that seems suspicious as hell.
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Nov 26, 2013 20:02
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Honestly I see that all the time in the classifieds for Ontario. No one ever seems to list or expect the appraised value as the asking price. That number is what the insurance company will pay you for the car as an agreed value in case of a loss.
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Nov 26, 2013 20:54
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Can you do the work yourself on the car? I mean that control arm is just going to be the beginning of more poo poo that can and most likely will go wrong on that car just due to it being 45 years old. I would definitely have someone look at the frame where it was repaired before dropping any kind of money on it. Old cars are loving money pits man, its never ending. Id walk away from a car that had the frame repaired honestly, but thats just me and it might have been done correctly but personally I would not take a chance on it.
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Nov 26, 2013 22:34
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All right. That sounds reasonable. Basically, I'm looking for a '67-'69 Mustang coupe or fastback (probably coupe given they are cheaper) that is relatively rust free and in good condition (frame wise and whatnot). I want it as a daily driver for the summer, and something I can learn to work on myself and gradually add, repair, or restore various parts of myself. Just want to start with something that's not a rust bucket or has some other integrity issue. Seems like a pretty tall order in Ontario, but I haven't quite been able to convince myself to go searching down through the States for a decent one due to travel time, cost, and paperwork at the border.
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Nov 26, 2013 23:24
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Faded Mars posted:paperwork at the border. How difficult is it to give them a thumbs up and leave a nice trail of rubber?
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Nov 26, 2013 23:26
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The paperwork I hear is actually not all that difficult in and of itself. There's a fair amount of frontloaded stuff, however. You need to have it all in order before crossing the border, and you need to notify the particular crossing you intend to use that you're bringing a car over. They may or may not hassle you about it, and they may or may not make you take the drive of shame back into the States to find storage if they discover even small errors (again, it all depends on the mood of the guard I suppose). As far as just buying the car and driving it on through, yeah I suppose I could do that, but the paperwork needs to be filed with them before I can register the car in Ontario.
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Nov 26, 2013 23:33
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Faded Mars posted:old Mustang stuff Run. If that car got appraised for $17,000 that recently, it should still be in almost showroom condition. The big red flag is the lovely welding done on the frame. Also, the paint is a re-spray, as is evident by the cowl vent. You can see rust bubbles forming there as well. If you can talk him down to around $4,000 and are willing to take a risk, go for it.
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Nov 27, 2013 17:47
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Ok. I've definitely decided not to pursue this one. This thread really is a great resource. Thanks everyone. Saved on thousands of dollars worth of repairs I don't want to make in the first place!
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Nov 27, 2013 18:16
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Faded Mars posted:Ok. I've definitely decided not to pursue this one. I don't think an old car is for you. I've owned a lot of old fords and let me tell you, you will have to work on them. You will find rust on even the most spotless examples that will need to be repaired every few years. I'm not exaggerating. I'm not saying that they rust into nothing if left unchecked, but no matter what you do, there will always be rust loving up paint, especially if you wash it regularly. Old cars are fun if you like WORKING on old cars. If you would rather drive your car and enjoy it get a new mustang. If you want to talk to people about old cars, be paranoid about the car constantly when you do drive it and spend the days you want to drive it most fixing it then your an old car guy. If your looking for something to drive when ever you want/need it, and have fun with it, your not an old car guy and will hate this. I'm just being honest. owning a 1960's piece of metal isn't all fun and games. E/ I've also performed a restoration to my exact wants, and then lived with it for over ten years. In that time I had to put 4 more paint jobs on the car due to surface rust in the jambs and drains from washing, paint ships, scratches, etc. had bolts break off in the motor changing the water pump that I basically had to just deal with, various suspension work, electrical work, every old nut and bolt goes right back to being rusty and seized within a year or two tops. I'm not going to candy coat anything for you, if your not 100 percent in this you will hate it. That being said, if you like knowing everything about your car, and I do mean everything (even if your car illiterate now, you wont be after two years and you will know everything about it), then you will be satisfied beyond belief owning an old car. Also, your price is too low for a non piece of poo poo example. you need to have about 12k for a good car, because if you buy a cheap lovely one you'll spend more than that making it good enough. goodfuldead fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Nov 27, 2013 |
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Nov 27, 2013 18:28
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goodfuldead posted:...you will have to work on them... I want to echo this, after helping my father restore a 64.5 Mustang that was a true barn find, and he is paranoid about taking it out. We did a completely original restoration, and after 4 years the paint is already showing some signs of deterioration even with the best care we know how to give it. He goes over it nearly every month to check for rust. Something is always breaking, or needing fixed. He keeps it in great shape because of his nostalgia for it. It is a lot of fun for him and his old car buddies to work on and be nostalgic about the 60's. Myself, I just enjoy spending time learning what car technology was like back then, but I would never take one on as a project for myself. You have to REALLY want it. Mustangs have a great support base and tons of cheap parts, but it can suck your wallet dry in no time. I have been tempted to put up pictures of my dad's Mustang, if there is some interest I might put them up in the AI Facebook group, I don't need GBS learning where I live.
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Nov 27, 2013 18:49
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TrinityOfDeath posted:I want to echo this, after helping my father restore a 64.5 Mustang that was a true barn find, and he is paranoid about taking it out. We did a completely original restoration, and after 4 years the paint is already showing some signs of deterioration even with the best care we know how to give it. He goes over it nearly every month to check for rust. Something is always breaking, or needing fixed. He keeps it in great shape because of his nostalgia for it. It is a lot of fun for him and his old car buddies to work on and be nostalgic about the 60's. Myself, I just enjoy spending time learning what car technology was like back then, but I would never take one on as a project for myself. I'd like to see it.
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Nov 28, 2013 00:52
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That's the reason I don't put much money in the exteriors of classic cars. I get the mechanicals right, upgrade the brakes and suspension and sound system, and drive the poo poo out of them.
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Nov 28, 2013 02:55
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TrinityOfDeath posted:I would never take one on as a project for myself. That's because you're smart.
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Nov 30, 2013 05:57
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Whats the factory wheel offset for the SN95 mustangs with 17x8 wheels? All I can google are other forums with other people asking the same question. The couple Ive seen seem to think its 30mm, but I wanted something a little more concrete before I buy winter wheels. edit: Found a picture of the back of one, stamped 17x8J30. Guess that answers it. Cage fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Dec 1, 2013 |
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Dec 1, 2013 03:15
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I'm eyeballing a Mustang as my first car to be a daily driver in small town Iowa, where snow is a certainty, while snow removal is not. I've got a lot of experience driving a torquey 2wd Cummins pickup in questionable conditions - is it reasonable to expect a Mustang with snow tires to be better in snow and sleet? Also, should I be avoiding the 1st model year of the next generation? I'm assuming it's a major upgrade in ride/handling and interior, but I'm not sure if major quality control problems are to be expected with such a major model change.
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Dec 2, 2013 23:52
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