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Do it... some of the bolts are obscured by the pulley iirc so you will have to wait before putting the pulley and belt back in. Or just wait an hour or two and crank it down, order the right gasket and redo it when it comes in. OneOverZero posted:Forgot to post a warning to XJ folks looking to replace their AW4 trans cooler lines - don't use the Dorman parts. Somewhere in the deepest industrial shithole of China is a robot making hardlines that are just incorrect enough to be dangerous. That sucks, they used to fit and I used a couple sets on various jeeps back in 08-09 or so. I hate swapping aw4s, if the one in my cherokee dies (it is showing signs...) it is getting ripped out and replaced with an ax15. I have everything but an ax15 rebuild kit, driveshafts, flywheel/pp bolts, the trans mount adapter, and a few minor parts already sitting here waiting to go in.
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Dec 9, 2013 00:40
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Mopar fittings are just a couple bucks more.
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Jonny 290 posted:HYPOTHETICALLY, if one replaced the water pump on a '99 4.0 WJ and if the parts store gave the wrong gasket so it was worthless and it was icy and cold out and one had to get this fucker driving tomorrow, would it be acceptable to use black RTV and wait 24h before final torquing and filling/starting? yes
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Dec 9, 2013 00:41
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I just joined the Jeep family for the first time. Sold my Subaru for some cash and trade on a 1998 XJ with 177k miles. Obviously, first line of defense was replacing the valve cover gasket, no biggie. Went to get it cleared for emissions and the failed me for a p0700 and P0705 CEL...What CEL you say? The CEL light that the previous rear end in a top hat owner pulled out of the gauge cluster...cuz hey, that's easier than fixing the problem right? Doesn't matter, they need me to fix it before they clear it for road use. I found some guides that perform the basic neutral safety switch rebuild. After some finagling I was able to get it off and disassembled, and the NSS arm promptly fell apart into pieces immediately after opening the case. I have a replacement on order from Ebay, but it loving sucks that such a delicate part can have so much plastic. I cant believe that the rod coming out of the transmission has so much torque that it snaps the arm in half, but apparently it does. List of leaks: Valve cover gasket Powersteering line Oil filter housing Oil pan (possibly)? Probably rear main Rear diff seals weeping My garage smells like a Saudi oil field right now. I've been trying to find replacement lights for the gauge cluster, but all I'm finding are the bulbs themselves, and not the plastic housings that turn into the cluster itself. I'm missing about 4 of them from what I can tell (Rear lift, airbag, CEL, and some other misc one). Any pointers to locate the housings *and* bulbs?
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Dec 9, 2013 03:37
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Just hit up the junkyard and grab a whole gauge cluster worth of bulbs and sockets. If the bulbs are junk, I think they are a standard size. POs suck, always watch for the lights to come on in the power on test sequence. That rod actually goes all the way through the transmission, it is the same one with the shift arm on the other side. whatever torque is available is whatever the operator put into the shifter. Sounds like your NSS was probably pretty seized up inside.
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Dec 9, 2013 03:50
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kastein posted:Just hit up the junkyard and grab a whole gauge cluster worth of bulbs and sockets. I'm surprised it even shifted into any position. Any time I've gone from park to a gear, it's "thunked" into place really drat hard. Hopefully the new NSS will fix it. On top of that, pretty sure the tranny isn't going into OD. Is it normal to sit at 3k RPM at 70? Stock tires and gearing AFIAK
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Dec 9, 2013 03:58
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S.W.G. posted:I'm surprised it even shifted into any position. Any time I've gone from park to a gear, it's "thunked" into place really drat hard. Hopefully the new NSS will fix it. The good news is that all your leaks (minus the rear main, which is a massive mess) are quite easy, if messy, to fix. Oil filter adapter does require a big ol' Torx bit, but the seals are a snap to swap out, so just do that when you change the oil. Diff fluid should be changed for safety's sake anyway, so seal that up in the process (if you have rare ABS and a Dana 35, there's even a $2 Fel-Pro gasket to make it easier).
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Dec 9, 2013 05:20
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Update: RTV felt pretty good this morning, going to go back at 5pm and fill 'er up. Come on, duct-tape fixes!
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Dec 9, 2013 15:40
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It's worth keeping a small amount if gasket paper to hand to cover situations like that, it's not expensive.
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Dec 9, 2013 15:44
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My jeep decided to spew coolant everywhere this morning, turned out the PO siliconed the thermostat housing and then left the bolts loose. Surprisingly it hadn't leaked till now. Also think I figured out my hard start issue. 4yrs and 30k+ miles will do that to a copper plug. 
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Dec 9, 2013 23:05
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drat. Guess its probably time to change my plugs. I think I have around 40-50k on mine.
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Dec 9, 2013 23:41
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S.W.G. posted:I'm surprised it even shifted into any position. Any time I've gone from park to a gear, it's "thunked" into place really drat hard. Hopefully the new NSS will fix it. My A999 3 speed auto on my YJ used to do that even when it was in good condition.
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Dec 10, 2013 02:17
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I got to see death wobble in action tonight on the freeway. Thankfully, not my jeep. Was driving around 80 with traffic in the leftmost lane, and noticed a lifted XJ weaving through cars trying to break through the pack. He finally cut in front of me with a really hard, quick lurch. At that same moment we drove over a big diagonal crack in the road, one that usually gives my wheels a bump and slight jerk to the side if I'm not paying attention. Then I saw his wheels lurch and start oscillating back and forth. It didn't stop, just kept going and got worse. He started shaking back and forth over the lane divider, and I was sure that he was going to spin out and roll over given how fast we were going.  Thankfully, he slowed down and pulled off onto the inner shoulder without an accident, but that was loving terrifying to witness. Going to spend this weekend checking and tightening up my front end, I think. Tadhg fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Dec 10, 2013 |
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Dec 10, 2013 04:21
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Pulled the code on my Cherokee: 24. TPS sensor. I'll check it tomorrow. Was too lazy today.
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Dec 10, 2013 04:41
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My 1995 YJ 4.0 is soiling itself with gasoline after being started up for the first time in weeks in the cold. I checked the fuel pressure since that has caused fuel leaks to appear in the past, and sure enough it's up over 70 psi at idle even with the steady leak at the fuel filter. It's supposed to be just over 30 psi at idle and 38 psi or so with the vacuum line disconnected from the pressure regulator. My first thought was that the return line is plugged, though there's nothing visibly wrong with it and the leak is on the feed line not the return line. There was fuel stabilizer in the tank as well, so even if it were possible for the gas to harden and block the return line, it doesn't seem likely. It seems like my next move should be disconnecting the return line and piping the gas into a container while checking the pressure. If nothing changes, either the regulator or the fuel pump have to be screwy, right? This is all complicated by the Jeep being in a parking lot a few miles from home. The current leak is at the only ear clamp on the entire fuel system, so I can't just move the line back snug. Even if I did that, the leak would likely just move. I should probably get it towed back to my garage before I start disconnecting fuel lines.
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Dec 10, 2013 18:17
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ManicJason posted:Fuel Problems I've read about people with similar problems in their YJs, and it seems to be a problem with where the return line sits in the fuel tank. Here's the original post I saw, with a fix: Some Guy on the Internet posted:Just last week i threw a fuel pressure gauge on my Jeep and was shocked to find the pressure up at 73 psi, so i did a bit of diagnostic work to find the problem but found nothing. Then I looked on the web to see it anyone has had this problem before, and i did find a few write ups about the same situation. What they had found was the return line inside the take ended up touching the bottom of the tank, and thus raising the fuel pressure way up. This was due to dents in the bottom of their fuel tanks. Chef Bromden fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Dec 10, 2013 |
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Dec 10, 2013 18:54
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Ok Jeep Goons help me out. I'm in the market for a Wrangler and see all sorts of conflicting opinions on how the money is best spent. I'm planning on around a $6,000 budget. This will mostly be a weekend vehicle, for hunting or camping trips. Nothing major so I'm not looking for a daily driver. With $6-6,500 in mind what is the absolute best bang for my buck? So far I've found its between finding better taken care of YJ's or slightly worse condition TJ's. What would you go for if that's the sort of budget you want to hit? I don't mind fixing a few things here or there and I'd kind of like it to be a bit of a project, but I'd still like it to be in good running condition. I'd like a small side project, not a charity case. I wanted a Jeep a year or so ago but I got BMW fever and ended up spending the money for a 330ci coupe. After a year of not being able to do anything with the drat car besides drive fast, I've found myself wanting something a bit more utilitarian yet still fun so I'm back to wanting a Jeep. Currently trying to sell the bimmer. I initially had a good trade set up for a 92 Wrangler 4.0 with a rebuilt head and new top, lifted, that had only 130k miles on it. After looking over it I found a lot of frame rust and body rotting and the guy wasn't willing to negotiate on it. No way in hell the thing was worth more than $4k and he wanted a straight trade ($6,500 for my bimmer). So here it is goons, what should I look for? I know I want a 4.0, I don't care whether its AT or manual. What's the ideal I should look for at $4-6,000. I'd actually like to spend a little less and use the money left over to do some small fixes/pay bills. What would you consider "too far gone" in terms of mileage on the 4.0? I know condition > mileage but gimmie a base line? I'm thinking nothing over 150k?
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Dec 10, 2013 23:04
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Just throwing it out there that if you're not dead set on the Wrangler, you could get a nice later model year XJ Cherokee for $4-5k pretty easily and have a bit left over for repairs or upgrades.
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Dec 11, 2013 00:09
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I'd try to get a TJ, unless it's absolutely ragged. If you do end up with a 4.0 that actually dies, you can probably rebuild it yourself or swap it for one from a junkyard, or even throw in a Chevy 350...you'll be about the 10,000th person to do any of these so there's gonna be all the info you need online.
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Dec 11, 2013 01:23
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Kastein can help you play Big Boy Legos and put a drivetrain in there with just about any engine/transmission/axle combo you can dream up too.
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Dec 11, 2013 03:48
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If you don't mind a rougher ride I'd look at YJs. As you've probably found out rust is probably the worst issue and I've seen a few TJs in bad shape at this point. A rust free jeep will likely have been kept in better shape mechanically, so you can actually enjoy driving it and spending more on upgrades than simply keeping it running. As far as practicality, it is hard to beat the XJ, but the XJ can't beat the joy of top down doorless driving. I'll post it up tomorrow but I already found a quarter size rusty spot on my frame, and my JK rolled off the line in July./
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Dec 11, 2013 05:16
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Dont look at the driveshaft.
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Dec 11, 2013 05:34
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Insurance adjuster for the guy who hit me last week wants to look at the Jeep tomorrow and cut a check. From what I can tell, most of the damage is on the liftgate. However, my drivers side door clicks when I open it. Along with the huge pucker, the wiper arm is bent, the wiper won't even touch the glass. Door also hangs up when I lift it. There are also a few cracks on the bodywork where it was smoothed out. I've priced a few things, wiper internals and stuff, any idea what I should be okay walking away with?
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Dec 11, 2013 05:48
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If you're set on a YJ, try to find a '95. It was the last production year so it has the fewest bugs, a few mechanical upgrades and was also the only year with a galvanized frame and body.
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Dec 11, 2013 05:59
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I'm not particularly dead set on the YJ. I just figured I could get a better taken care of YJ for my money vs a ragged TJ. People on the wrangler/jeel forums are particularly opposed to the 4 cyl and I've only heard bad things. Finding a 4.0 is the first challenge, then mileage, then rust is were I start to run out of choices in my price range. I'm on the fence about the XJ. It's a much more practical vehicle, I know, and I can probably get a nicer vehicle for the money. It's just wranglers are so cool  I've just been so amazed at what people are asking for then compare to what book value is. I guess it's the same with BMWs. Shachi fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 06:44
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Once you start dealing with a wrangler on a daily basis it loses a lot of it's cool factor. Super short wheelbase, very little room in the back until you get to the new ones that are out of your price range, crazy high prices. Get an xj, or an mj if you can find one.
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Dec 11, 2013 12:45
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gileadexile posted:Insurance adjuster for the guy who hit me last week wants to look at the Jeep tomorrow and cut a check. From what I can tell, most of the damage is on the liftgate. However, my drivers side door clicks when I open it. Get a quote for a full repair at the body shop of your choice, accept nothing less. His idiot customer hit you, you did nothing wrong, you shouldn't have to lift a finger to be made whole. Then find factory paint matched parts at the pull a part and bolt em on. Do whatever you want with the difference cash wise. If he balks, refer him to your insurance company. E: side doors are acting up? Check very very carefully for chassis damage, eespecially around where the hatch transfers its load to the body and the chassis frame rails/subframe rails in the back. If any of that is warped you need to either live with it or have the pros fix it, which isn't cheap. kastein fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 14:26
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Shachi posted:People on the wrangler/jeel forums are particularly opposed to the 4 cyl and I've only heard bad things. Finding a 4.0 is the first challenge, then mileage, then rust is were I start to run out of choices in my price range. I've driven a '95 YJ with the 4 cyl since 2010. In flat-land Florida, there's nothing wrong with it at all. It does fine. Heck, it'll run 80MPH with the A/C blowing cold. If you live in a mountainous area, it would suck. I just bought an EVEN SLOWER CJ7 that's going to be my daily driver, so my YJ is up for sale. If you're interested, it's on jeepforum.com classifieds. '95 in Gainesville, FL. I'll even cut a deal for an SA member. As far as the wrangler loosing its cool factor: Nope. It doesn't. I've had two mint XJs and would rather drive a ragged out CJ or Wrangler. It's not a Camry, I don't expect it to drive and feel like one inside. EDIT: HEY JEEP NERDS! What's the best soft top half-cab setup to keep the wind out? I've got an '81 CJ with fabric doors. A bikini and windjammer will do fine, but there's a big fuckoff gap between the rear of the doors and the rollbar. Any way to seal it up half decently? Team140 fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 14:29
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Once you start dealing with a wrangler on a daily basis it loses a lot of it's cool factor. Super short wheelbase, very little room in the back until you get to the new ones that are out of your price range, crazy high prices. It's not a truck, don't buy a Wrangler if you want to move poo poo around. Would you buy a Miata to cart around kids? No, it's a fun vehicle.
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Dec 11, 2013 15:32
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Oh I know, it's just that he said it's for fishing/hunting/camping and those things require you to carry crap with you, so if you plan on going with more than one other person you'll be filling a wrangler up pretty dang fast.
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Dec 11, 2013 15:39
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My wrangler has increased in cool factor basically every day ive had it. The only real downside is 15mpg. I can fit a poo poo ton of stuff in the back with the rear seat out. I always leave it out because it's just me and my girlfriend. My buddy has two kids and really needs his xj.
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Dec 11, 2013 16:13
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OneOverZero posted:Should be around 2500RPM at 70MPH for an AW4 backed by 3.55s, from what I remember of my 225/75R15 days. NSS switch is back in, and I have reverse lights and my O/D gear again too! Jeep masters, this is the power steering line, right? 
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Dec 11, 2013 16:22
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That is one of the trans cooler lines.
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Dec 11, 2013 16:53
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kastein posted:Said all kinds of things that made sense.. Thanks man, and that was my exact plan, to replace the liftgate whole hog and use the rest for upgrades. As far as the body tweak, I'm gonna have my uncle in law go over it and make sure the body panels match and that nothing is seriously hosed. I don't THINK so, but you never know.
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Dec 11, 2013 17:04
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kastein posted:That is one of the trans cooler lines. Exploded diagram looks like its the outlet line. Does it make more sense to replace the hard and soft line, or just see if the softline can be swapped?
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Dec 11, 2013 17:10
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That line (iirc) is only available as a full piece - what you're looking at is a small leak right at the crimp where the soft line meets the hard line. You could probably cut it off and use AN fittings to attach a soft line, but a new factory line shouldn't be that bad. I used to use the Dorman replacements but OneOverZero reports that their quality blows these days and they gave him a lot of problems. So I'd avoid those. I'm not even sure I would replace that line - does it drip a lot? Any mechanical damage or signs of fraying/failing? If it's just weeping, whatever, it'll keep the jeep from rusting as much 
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Dec 11, 2013 17:37
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kastein posted:I'm not even sure I would replace that line - does it drip a lot? Any mechanical damage or signs of fraying/failing? If it's just weeping, whatever, it'll keep the jeep from rusting as much Problem is that the crimp either physically failed to hold the hose correctly, or the hose liner failed. Either can spontaneously fail and eject the hose from the crimp.
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Dec 11, 2013 17:52
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Oh I know, it's just that he said it's for fishing/hunting/camping and those things require you to carry crap with you, so if you plan on going with more than one other person you'll be filling a wrangler up pretty dang fast. I'd use a cargo rack most of the time anyhow. I only need room for a tent/bag or a tree stand, dead deer and a cooler most of the time. I'm still on the fence about an XJ. It wouldn't be a daily driver. I have a car for work and my wife has a car. But it would be fun to have on a trip and my wife and infant son would be dicey. I guess a cargo rack serves a decent purpose there too. Team140 posted:I've driven a '95 YJ with the 4 cyl since 2010. In flat-land Florida, there's nothing wrong with it at all. It does fine. Heck, it'll run 80MPH with the A/C blowing cold. If you live in a mountainous area, it would suck. I just bought an EVEN SLOWER CJ7 that's going to be my daily driver, so my YJ is up for sale. If you're interested, it's on jeepforum.com classifieds. '95 in Gainesville, FL. I'll even cut a deal for an SA member. That is a fine speciman. Man why can't I find jeeps like that in my area. I'd buy it from you right now if I had the cash. Gotta sell the BMW first. Shachi fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 19:31
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Oh yeah. I'm not sure if I could fit a dead deer into my TJ comfortably 
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Dec 11, 2013 19:34
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Astonishing Wang posted:Oh yeah. I'm not sure if I could fit a dead deer into my TJ comfortably That's what the cargo rack is for, cuz. You don't want a dead deer in the back of an XJ either 
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Dec 11, 2013 19:36
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TPS issue on my XJ ended up being the thing was unplugged. The catch apparently popped loose and the plug wiggled itself out over time. The rough ice on the roads last Friday apparently dealt the final blow. Went out yesterday to test it, and noticed that I could see the rubber seal, and the catch was no where near the little pin it clips over. Plugged it back in - no more Check Engine light. Woot! I zip-tied over the catch around the plug body to make sure it stays locked, since it seems to be a bit flimsy and loose. It would only have been $35 for a new TPS, or less if I hit the wrecking yard (which I wasn't going to do in this weather. It's either frozen or mud,) but I like free plus no trip for parts even better.
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Dec 11, 2013 20:00
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