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So remember when I said I did that flash and the car felt great? Car still feels great but I've thrown 2 check engine codes in the past week. One being that I was running lean and the second one from tonight was about having a downpipe on the car(while I don't). Weird thing is, when the check engine light comes on, the cruise control light blinks and the traction control light is on. I'm going to flash back to Factory EDU settings tomorrow and try to reflash to Stage 1 93 OCT. Any thoughts? If it's a matter of having to just go get a good tune I'll hopefully be doing that the end of Janaury. Thanks
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Dec 14, 2013 04:57
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si posted:True but c'mon, trading 50lbs for 200ft/lb of torque? Even 150lbs? You can make back that weight with other methods/relocation. Putting the battery in the trunk is going to offset over half of that. I'm not really saying it's a great idea, but I'm saying it's as workable as any other - and it's been done. The EZ30 and EG33 are going to add weight over the EJ207/EJ257 as well, especially when you deal with the fab work in front to wedge the radiator in place, add all the forced induction plumbing and pieces, figure out where to put an intercooler, etc. I think the point is that once you're thinking about making big power - 700kw power - it's time to look at a different chassis. The Impreza chassis isn't designed for much more than the EJ257 can put out, and you can put out a lot from the EJ257 with aftermarket support before you need to look at adding more cylinders.
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Dec 14, 2013 08:05
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MasterOfDemons posted:Weird thing is, when the check engine light comes on, the cruise control light blinks and the traction control light is on.
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Dec 14, 2013 08:13
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MasterOfDemons posted:So remember when I said I did that flash and the car felt great? Car still feels great but I've thrown 2 check engine codes in the past week. What are your other mods?
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Dec 14, 2013 12:51
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angor posted:Bonus question. My car makes a super obnoxious constant beeping noise when I go over 120kph. How the hell can I disable that? Taxis in Singapore make a tone above that speed or thereabouts. Was your car ever there as a fleet car? Every taxi I rode in over there was a Toyota or Hyundai but I have not been back since 2008. I am told it is there to tell a passenger that the driver is speeding.
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Dec 14, 2013 14:13
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VelociBacon posted:I have no idea about your bonus question but it's not uncommon for the right headlight on USDM cars (and I suppose other cars that are left-hand-drive) to be aimed a bit higher as the left one would be in the face of oncoming traffic if it was aimed higher as well. It might be a feature. My Impreza's left headlight is kinda high, and it's a right hand drive. Maybe they did make them like that?
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Dec 14, 2013 15:12
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Most cars I've seen from the factory have the passenger side headlight tilted up a bit. Dunno why, maybe so you can see more sidewalk and less curb.
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Dec 14, 2013 17:50
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It isn't that the passenger headlight is tilted up, it is the driver's headlight that is tilted down. Like someone mentioned, it is to reduce glare for oncoming cars. I've seen it a lot on DSM's and Hondas that use the bubble meter for headlight alignment. The Passenger one is centered, while the Driver side has the bubble slightly behind the line. Although, recent cars tend to have them aligned the same now.
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Dec 14, 2013 20:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Most cars I've seen from the factory have the passenger side headlight tilted up a bit. Dunno why, maybe so you can see more sidewalk and less curb. It is to light up road signs.
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Dec 14, 2013 21:13
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Yakattak posted:What are your other mods? I put the stock intake back on with a K&N filter, TurboXS BOV and cat back exhaust which all should be fine for the Stage 1 Flash. Short throw and brake kit are only other things on there. Didn't have any issues with the car before the flash.
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Dec 14, 2013 23:42
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nm posted:It is to light up road signs. My friends hate me because its like I have highbeam on driving behind them.
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Dec 15, 2013 00:22
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MasterOfDemons posted:I put the stock intake back on with a K&N filter, TurboXS BOV and cat back exhaust which all should be fine for the Stage 1 Flash. Short throw and brake kit are only other things on there. Didn't have any issues with the car before the flash. Could be anything and it's hard to know without pulling the code, but it wouldn't surprise me if the BOV is the culprit, particularly if your code is for running rich. I'd like to point you to the OP's section on BOVs. I'd replace it with the stock bypass valve and call it good. il serpente cosmico fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 01:07
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I put a deposit on this.   '08 Subaru Liberty GT Tuned by STI That is the actual name of it. They built 250 of them, and this is apparently one of them. I am pretty sure it was built for Australia, although other countries had similar special editions. It comes standard with Bilstein suspension, Enkeis, a higher output engine (195kw, although there is a rumour this is an understatement) and 350 nm and more so is more then just a B Spec. The only thing that throws me is the lack of STI front lip (which probably got ripped off anyway) and the fact that it came with Brembos. The pics don't appear to show Brembos..... I am buying it interstate, so I asked a work mate who used to work at a Subaru dealership to run the VIN. He will get back to me Monday. If it isn't legit then I might still get it as is a mint example, with only 43k km.
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Dec 15, 2013 07:34
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Lilbeefer posted:'08 Subaru Liberty GT Tuned by STI Hard to see but it looks like it's got Brembos in those photos. They were black calipers on that model so it's harder to notice them. If it's got the Brembos, STI interior and a build plate on the engine cover then it's a proper Tuned by STI. Checking the VIN might not help as all the upgrade parts were fitted after they docked in Australia so its the same VIN as any other Liberty GT.
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Dec 15, 2013 08:08
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ChunksNensja posted:Hard to see but it looks like it's got Brembos in those photos. They were black calipers on that model so it's harder to notice them. If it's got the Brembos, STI interior and a build plate on the engine cover then it's a proper Tuned by STI. Checking the VIN might not help as all the upgrade parts were fitted after they docked in Australia so its the same VIN as any other Liberty GT. It definitely has the alcantara interior, which I imagine would be the hardest thing to fake. Has the engine plate although I've not seen a pic of the strut brace.
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Dec 15, 2013 08:25
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Lilbeefer posted:I put a deposit on this. I hate other countries so much. Is that exhaust OEM?
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Dec 15, 2013 09:50
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nm posted:I hate other countries so much. Is that exhaust OEM? It is certainly standard on this model.
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Dec 15, 2013 10:16
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I may have the opportunity to pick up a 2000 2.5rs 5MT with an alleged broken shift fork. Having never rebuilt a transmission (but being fairly mechanically competent), will I want to crush my own testicles for having taken this on?
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Dec 15, 2013 10:47
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brosef deluxe posted:I may have the opportunity to pick up a 2000 2.5rs 5MT with an alleged broken shift fork. Have a garage/tools/lift?
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Dec 15, 2013 11:01
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VelociBacon posted:Have a garage/tools/lift? Garage: potentially. Tools: yes. Lift: I wish. I live in the middle of nowhere so having a car on jack stands isn't going to piss anyone off (matter of fact, my brother in law has had in that state for 8+ months) and I can take my time. brosef deluxe fucked around with this message at 11:33 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 11:31
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Broken shift fork is easy! It's not actually in the transmission, think of it as a clutch job. Since you don't have a lift I recommend pulling the motor. Don't disconnect AC or powersteering, just flip the accessories off to the side. Edit: annnndddd I was just told on IRC that shift fork and clutch fork are different things, durrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr yeah you're openin' 'er up. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 14:08
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MasterOfDemons posted:I put the stock intake back on with a K&N filter, TurboXS BOV and cat back exhaust which all should be fine for the Stage 1 Flash. Short throw and brake kit are only other things on there. Didn't have any issues with the car before the flash. If you have a 2008+ the BOV will throw codes (GDs just act silly). The flash will modify what's expected from the intake track which your K&N filter and BOV can modify. Especially on the picky GRs.
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Dec 15, 2013 14:55
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Slow is Fast posted:Broken shift fork is easy! Why pull the motor? Just get the car up on 4 jack stands, good and high, drop the transmission with a jack and pull it out the side. Having a low-profile jack is helpful for this, otherwise you might have to drop it with the jack, take it off the jack, then drag it out. Reverse for installation. For a 2.5RS, I think the hobbyist mechanic would be better served replacing the transmission. Used units aren't terribly expensive, but they are getting long in the tooth. I believe the 96'-'99 LGT 5-spd is the same unit.
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Dec 15, 2013 16:41
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Neptr posted:Why pull the motor? Just get the car up on 4 jack stands, good and high, drop the transmission with a jack and pull it out the side. Having a low-profile jack is helpful for this, otherwise you might have to drop it with the jack, take it off the jack, then drag it out. Reverse for installation. What's the advantage to using a LGT 5-speed? Price?
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Dec 15, 2013 17:48
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Neptr posted:Why pull the motor? Just get the car up on 4 jack stands, good and high, drop the transmission with a jack and pull it out the side. Having a low-profile jack is helpful for this, otherwise you might have to drop it with the jack, take it off the jack, then drag it out. Reverse for installation. I would pull the motor because it's really, really easy to do. Not to mention you can fix the leaks from the Oil separator plate.
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Dec 15, 2013 18:50
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brosef deluxe posted:What's the advantage to using a LGT 5-speed? Price? Similar ratios I would assume. The 2.5RS has a unique final drive (4.11:1, same as Legacies/Outbacks) so you can't just bomb in an Impreza 3.9:1 transmission like I did with my OBS (replaced the original '97 trans with an '02 Impreza wagon trans). If you are pulling the engine (or dropping the trans), replace the clutch and flywheel with new parts and fix the oil separator plate: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-seperator-plate-explained/ Good luck. I would love a deal on one of those little coupes. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 18:53
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There's a difference between the 98 and 99+ transmissions. 99 gets phase-2 blocks and more bolts and a slightly different starter mount. You can use an older transmission but you are better off finding a newer 5-speed with matching ratios. You can change the rear diff to in order to have matching final drives but then you have to do stuff with the speed sensor and I'm not sure what that entails. The 5-speeds are not that complicated to take apart and work on, especially if you don't dis-assemble the gearsets. You could take it apart, figure out what is wrong, and then decide whether it's worth it to fix or just replace the whole thing. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Dec 16, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 20:11
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I've got a 2004 WRX with 120k miles that is exhibiting what a cursory Google search reveals to be a fairly widespread gas leak issue mostly exhibited during very low temperatures. I'm in Michigan, and we're hitting our coldest weather of the year: Last night while idling at a light I smelled gas in the cabin, and can smell it immediately above the engine with the hood open. I can't find any visible leaks and nothing is pooling under the car. Am I correct in assuming that this is the hose clamp issue under the intake? I saw that there was a TSB for 02-03's with this problem, does that extend to 04's? If a dealership won't fix this under the TSB, how tough is repairing it? I have tools and a small garage, but it's like 0 degrees out so if it's a quick fix I might try it, otherwise what would I be looking at for cost to have my local import shop do it? EDIT: This TSB - http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/gener...tsb-inside.html
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Dec 16, 2013 13:24
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amenenema posted:I've got a 2004 WRX with 120k miles that is exhibiting what a cursory Google search reveals to be a fairly widespread gas leak issue mostly exhibited during very low temperatures. I'm in Michigan, and we're hitting our coldest weather of the year: Last night while idling at a light I smelled gas in the cabin, and can smell it immediately above the engine with the hood open. I can't find any visible leaks and nothing is pooling under the car. WVK-21 does not cover the 2004 models. It is under the intake manifold and requires that to be removed. Which I've heard is a bitch but not impossible. I have the TSB that describes the repair if you want it just PM me. Also with the intake manifold off you way wanna take the time to install a turbo inlet. Yakattak fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Dec 16, 2013 |
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Dec 16, 2013 14:24
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Neptr posted:Why pull the motor? Just get the car up on 4 jack stands, good and high, drop the transmission with a jack and pull it out the side. Having a low-profile jack is helpful for this, otherwise you might have to drop it with the jack, take it off the jack, then drag it out. Reverse for installation. Having done both a trans swap on jack stands and multiple motor in/outs, gently caress everything to do with trans swaps without a lift. And yeah, 4.11 NA boxes are easy to find. Jamal covered year differences. I do not open transmissions and I do not split shortblocks.
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Dec 16, 2013 14:58
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Got my Accessport in on Friday and spent some time playing with the logging functions and reading up on them. I flashed the 91 octane map to start out with even though I had 93 octane available. I played with it for a day or so, but couldn't really do much since it was fairly miserable weather here. Yesterday I flashed over the 93 octane map and I drove it pretty easy a few times and after it was all warmed up I got one good log pulling in 3rd gear to redline. Everything seemed uneventful and I went to sleep with a smile. This morning I filled the tank up by my house to prepare for the week of commuting. I noticed that the requested boost was showing a max of 25psi. Actual boost was around 16psi. I cleared the min/max and continued on my way. By the time I made it to work I had yet another 25psi max request reading and in the logs there were two instances of FBKC. It only pulled 1.4 and added it back in fairly quickly in both cases. DAM was still 1 and FLKC read 0. I'm wondering if I am seeing the FBKC from poo poo winter gas or not, but the target boost reading just seems ridiculous to me. The actual max boost was 17.1psi. It was just under 30f and in Atlanta the atmospheric pressure is currently 1027mbar according to the station at the airport. Thoughts? I can post a link to the logs later if anyone is curious wtf.
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Dec 16, 2013 15:13
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http://smd.craigslist.org/pts/4208095675.html This guy is selling lightly used cobb sway bars, asking $300. Anything I should be wary of before making an offer? They would be used on my 2009 WRX hatch. He says he has the bushings, and from what I can tell, the bars use the cars original fasteners to install.
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Dec 16, 2013 16:41
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Mercury Ballistic posted:http://smd.craigslist.org/pts/4208095675.html Way too much money. You can get a new set for around that. These are not items that retain value well in the second hand market. You don't want someone's rusty bars and worn bushings. Edit: Worth asking, what's your actual goals? I'm personally not a fan of the Cobb bars having had them on my old Legacy and had one snap after 2 years. I was better than most and greased them properly twice a year, too. Most people grease them once and leave them to die. I wouldn't do a front bar at all unless you've got a plan in mind that needs an aftermarket one - I generally think the stock in front is sufficient and maybe at worst needs a bit of a larger rear. I thought the 09 WRX handled pretty well as it came though. si fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Dec 16, 2013 |
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Dec 16, 2013 16:43
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Mercury Ballistic posted:http://smd.craigslist.org/pts/4208095675.html You might want to talk to Jamal. He helped me get some whiteline bars for my 2013. I am sure I abused him with questions as well and he was always helpful.
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Dec 16, 2013 17:04
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Aflicted posted:Got my Accessport in on Friday and spent some time playing with the logging functions and reading up on them. I flashed the 91 octane map to start out with even though I had 93 octane available. I played with it for a day or so, but couldn't really do much since it was fairly miserable weather here. Yesterday I flashed over the 93 octane map and I drove it pretty easy a few times and after it was all warmed up I got one good log pulling in 3rd gear to redline. Everything seemed uneventful and I went to sleep with a smile. This morning I filled the tank up by my house to prepare for the week of commuting. I noticed that the requested boost was showing a max of 25psi. Actual boost was around 16psi. I cleared the min/max and continued on my way. By the time I made it to work I had yet another 25psi max request reading and in the logs there were two instances of FBKC. It only pulled 1.4 and added it back in fairly quickly in both cases. DAM was still 1 and FLKC read 0. I'm wondering if I am seeing the FBKC from poo poo winter gas or not, but the target boost reading just seems ridiculous to me. The actual max boost was 17.1psi. It was just under 30f and in Atlanta the atmospheric pressure is currently 1027mbar according to the station at the airport. Thoughts? I can post a link to the logs later if anyone is curious wtf. I'll log mine sometime today and see if I get a similar read. 2013 with OTS 93 map.
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Dec 16, 2013 17:36
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Lilbeefer posted:I put a deposit on this.
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Dec 16, 2013 18:15
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si posted:Way too much money. You can get a new set for around that. These are not items that retain value well in the second hand market. You don't want someone's rusty bars and worn bushings. From what I could find new sets were around $500. My wife has a 2004 wrx wagon, I have stated before, but I would like the 09 hatch to handle more like the 04. I guess I would like less body roll, a smarter feel to the way the car corners. I am open to other options, I just was told that sway bars were the best bang for the buck.
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Dec 16, 2013 19:00
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I ran a datalog on mine with a couple of wide open I-10 pulls through 3rd and 4th with similar results. e: going to make another one didn't do it right Farking Bastage fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Dec 16, 2013 |
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Dec 16, 2013 19:06
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Mercury Ballistic posted:From what I could find new sets were around $500. My wife has a 2004 wrx wagon, I have stated before, but I would like the 09 hatch to handle more like the 04. I guess I would like less body roll, a smarter feel to the way the car corners. I am open to other options, I just was told that sway bars were the best bang for the buck. So I hear many times - I'm not necessarily a buyer. Swaybars will help with body roll, but I guess I don't find body roll to be that big of a concern on a daily driven car. That same flexibility is also what keeps the car from not feeling like an iron rod when you drop one wheel into a pothole, etc. Best bang for your buck is tires. Nobody is likely to ever convince me otherwise for sure. Tire pressure is probably your best bang for the buck even. If you want a slight feel difference, start by bringing your tire pressures up. Try like 40 F and 36-38 R, and see how that feels. Play around with it a bit, but don't go above like 42 cold. You can also get an alignment done, as there's usually a bit of stock toe-in that you can take out and it will make the car a bit more responsive at the start. Beyond that, I'd say start with just a mild rear bar. It's probably all you want to increase the feel a bit cornering and give it a bit more towards over-steer. The stock front bar (again, my opinion, no facts here) is quite fine unless you're really really pushing on a track. I would also not go for a major increase in the rear, as it just makes the car kind of awkward and unbalanced. You're right that a new set will be around $500 if you just buy them list. Nobody buys them list. You'll generally find sales popping up for F&R combos on Whitelines or the like for <$400. I got my Cobb F&R for the Legacy for $375 for the pair when they went on clearance, but this was 4-5 years ago at this point.
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Dec 16, 2013 19:36
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Farking Bastage posted:I ran a datalog on mine with a couple of wide open I-10 pulls through 3rd and 4th with similar results. I also have a 2013 running the 93 octane OTS map. Yours has some FLKC and at one point under WOT it has some corrections in FBKC. In yours thought it pulls 1.4 for the first event and then pulls another 1.4 to 2.8 before going back down. At the same time it has some FLKC correction. Mine doesn't have any FLKC and in FBKC it only shows up once and then gets tapered off. Here is the one I took this morning in question. It is long, but you are only looking for anything in FBKC, FKLC, or 100% throttle. dhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3p4hxCvXsAIWE9FR1lTb0piSzQ/edit?usp=sharing Mercury Ballistic posted:From what I could find new sets were around $500. My wife has a 2004 wrx wagon, I have stated before, but I would like the 09 hatch to handle more like the 04. I guess I would like less body roll, a smarter feel to the way the car corners. I am open to other options, I just was told that sway bars were the best bang for the buck. Talk to Jamal and he can get you a good price on most things.
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Dec 16, 2013 19:43
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