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Boon posted:X-post from 40k. Making slow, slow progress on my Crimson Hunter. Not feeling very ambitious. Dude, your models are so choice.
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Dec 19, 2013 21:30
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 15:29 |
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Boon posted:X-post from 40k. Making slow, slow progress on my Crimson Hunter. Not feeling very ambitious. Looking good duder. I dig the light-dark green fade, like on your other stuff (or is that just the lighting?) I'm still not sure about the red paneling. I really liked how your skimmers had just the red on the canopy, with green and white everywhere else.
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Dec 19, 2013 21:49
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What the best source for rank and file pathfinder/dnd monster minis?
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Dec 19, 2013 21:52
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Reaper bones.
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Dec 19, 2013 22:01
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Thanks guys for the comments, pushing onwards with it.Hixson posted:Looking good duder. I dig the light-dark green fade, like on your other stuff (or is that just the lighting?) It's a fade, but I'm sure the light adds to it slightly. I'm hoping to get a completed shot of the top half (albeit with a gloss coat) in the sun tomorrow. I went with the red and bone panels on certain areas because crimson/bone are the aspect colors of the Crimson Hunter (which is actually an aspect warrior). Ideally I'd just do the pilot in those colors, but since I'm going to paint the canopies red army-wide I kind of made the decision to tie in the colors on the panels. The model creates a thematic crisis for me because I think it should be painted like my Wraith/Guardian models in the Craftworld colors, especially since it's supposed to represent the Craftworld's fighter craft, but it's still an aspect warrior. So I kind of just compromised.
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Dec 19, 2013 22:04
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Update to my earlier woes: I tried a test model and yup, it's definitely Future Shine that melts Didi's Magic Ink like nobody's business, even when I'm careful with application. I think it's probably something to do with the fact that Didi's is an ink/gloss acrylic medium rather than the washes I'm more used to. I'll find a use for the Didi's I bought, but I'm probably going to look elsewhere for washes too, since I do enjoy being able to gloss varnish with Future (and normally it works fine). I've noticed very minor wash-running when I injudiciously applied Future to GW washes, but nothing on this level. JerryLee fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Dec 19, 2013 |
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Dec 19, 2013 22:21
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Monster w21 Faces posted:What the best source for rank and file pathfinder/dnd monster minis?
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Dec 19, 2013 22:34
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 Bit of a WIP on my lizardmen. Not sure If I'm pleased with how the skin turned out but I think it looks okish
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Dec 19, 2013 23:43
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gilljoy posted:
I think the skin looks really good for something you're probably going to be painting, like, at least 80 of. Sometimes you have to make the trade off between ease of painting and quality when you have to do so many models. The skin color will also look even better once you start hitting the details like teeth and nails.
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Dec 19, 2013 23:49
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
Oil washes
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Dec 20, 2013 00:00
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Pacheeco posted:I think the skin looks really good for something you're probably going to be painting, like, at least 80 of. Sometimes you have to make the trade off between ease of painting and quality when you have to do so many models. The skin color will also look even better once you start hitting the details like teeth and nails. Thank you very much, fingers crossed the more practice the better I'll get
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Dec 20, 2013 00:03
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moths posted:Reaper bones. Thanks. Um...not to be rude but is there anything...better?
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Dec 20, 2013 00:07
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Not for cheap. Bones is exceedingly good value for mooks and dungeon fillers, and not bad for big stuff and dragons (and PCs). Otherwise, you're probably looking at prepainted plastics from WotC or Paizo, and their paint jobs tend to be lovely, or paying through the nose for GW or similar. Maybe look at Mantic, I think their plastic ranges are improving.
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Dec 20, 2013 00:10
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Reaper metals. Still cheap, better quality.
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Dec 20, 2013 00:11
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I'm not entirely fussed about cost tbh, just the best sculpts. I'll check those out though.
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Dec 20, 2013 00:21
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Then probably GW for your rank and file, mierce miniatures or other small-press high-end things for characters (mierce make loving gorgeous minis, but they cost a bundle).
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Dec 20, 2013 00:22
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These Kings of War minis look pretty good actually. Especially the skelingtons.
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Dec 20, 2013 00:25
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I have a friend who's nuts for the boardgame Derby. For his 40th birthday (in a year or so) I want to make a custom version of the game with an astroturfed track and custom painted figures. My only - but quite major - problem is that I can't for the life of me find any horse+jockey figures anywhere. Nowhere. Not in 25mm, 15mm, 30mm, 20mm or any appropriate size. My only positive hits in my searches have been extremely pricey (as in $15 each) 54 mil display versions, and this won't work for the board size. Besides, I need 20 horses and while I like my friend, I don't like him $300. Does anyone have a suggestion as to where to look? My sculpting skills are non-existant, or I'd consider that. As a last resort I could buy one figure (if I can find a proper scale), make a mould and cast the horses myself, but I would rather buy them and spend my energy painting.
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Dec 20, 2013 01:21
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gilljoy posted:
Monster w21 Faces posted:Thanks. Bones are pretty good, it should be noted that Bone's look shittier unprimed due to the white color obscuring detail..
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Dec 20, 2013 01:30
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gilljoy posted:
I completely agree with what's been said. Quantity is almost a quality of its own when painting huge blocks of WFB models. The great thing about it though, is you can pretty much practice a lot of techniques on your core troops, so when it's time to paint the character models, you can go all out with what you've learned. Also, painting the centrepiece character models/big monsters to a higher standard really draws attention to them, and raises the overall quality of the army paint job. I think you got the amount of shade on the right one just right, while the left one could do with a bit more contrast. E.g. my zombies (painted with Army Painter sprays, thick layers of shade and maybe a drybrush highlight) vs. my Wight King BSB (which took me about a week to paint):  
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Dec 20, 2013 01:34
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Boon posted:The model creates a thematic crisis for me because I think it should be painted like my Wraith/Guardian models in the Craftworld colors, especially since it's supposed to represent the Craftworld's fighter craft, but it's still an aspect warrior. So I kind of just compromised. O ok, I gotcha. I ran into a similar problem when I painted my crimson hunter. Wanted it to look accurate to the aspect but also go with my craftworld themed vehicles. But I lucked out, I play Ulthwe. Black looks good with everything.
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Dec 20, 2013 02:42
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Dane posted:I have a friend who's nuts for the boardgame Derby. For his 40th birthday (in a year or so) I want to make a custom version of the game with an astroturfed track and custom painted figures. My only - but quite major - problem is that I can't for the life of me find any horse+jockey figures anywhere. Nowhere. Not in 25mm, 15mm, 30mm, 20mm or any appropriate size. My only positive hits in my searches have been extremely pricey (as in $15 each) 54 mil display versions, and this won't work for the board size. Besides, I need 20 horses and while I like my friend, I don't like him $300. I know I've seen horse racing board game tokens someplace, but they were pretty small and low detail. How big are you looking for? Might be something to have laser cut from acrylic, or possibly 3d printed. E: http://www.gameparts.net/horse_rider.htm Bucnasti fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Dec 20, 2013 |
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Dec 20, 2013 04:18
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I broke down and ordered the discounted Sotar. Anything specific for it I should order while I have a cheaper/easier shipping option? I have a basic compressor/hose/etc. setup for an El Cheapo airbrush, what more does a quality airbrush need that might be problematic to get locally? ed: and right on time too, I checked a moment ago and I don't see the offer anymore 
Pierzak fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Dec 20, 2013 |
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Dec 20, 2013 04:34
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El Estrago Bonito posted:Bones are pretty good, it should be noted that Bone's look shittier unprimed due to the white color obscuring detail.. Not just the white color, but the fact that the plastic is very slightly translucent, creating a backscatter effect. Light penetrates partway into the plastic, bouncing back out and softening the visual detail. Get a little paint or primer on 'em, and they're almost as good as their metal counterparts.
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Dec 20, 2013 05:19
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Pierzak posted:I broke down and ordered the discounted Sotar. Anything specific for it I should order while I have a cheaper/easier shipping option? I have a basic compressor/hose/etc. setup for an El Cheapo airbrush, what more does a quality airbrush need that might be problematic to get locally? You're gonna want some Regdab, which is Badger's airbrush lubricant. It helps ward off "tip-dry", which is where paint starts to collect and dry on the needle tip causing clogs (which can happen really quickly with the .19mm Sotar needle), and you use it on all the airbrush internals to keep the brush parts moving freely. Just coat the needle with a light coating before you paint. Also you'll want some kind of "airbrush station" where you can set your airbrush down without spilling paint everywhere and also evacuate all the paint out. The Iwata-Medea cleaning station is a really good single brush station. Get yourself a 8oz or 16oz squirt (not spray) bottle you can put Windex in. Windex is a great airbrush cleaning fluid for when you need to switch colors on the fly. Also like a billion Q-Tips to clean out the cup and a tooth brush to scrub semi-dry paint off the airbrush nozzle. I use a really cheap ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for "deep" cleaning my airbrushes but I didn't get one until almost a year after starting to airbrush, it's not required but it's really helpful once you start using your airbrush for hours at a time and the lubricant starts getting all gummy and gross. It also works really well for stripping miniatures. Make sure the hose you have is compatible with Badger brushes and also your compressor. Different airbrush brands have different hose connector sizes. If it's a Badger brand hose you'll be fine. Also it's a (potentially) large initial investment but I'd highly suggest getting "airbrush ready" paints like Vallejo Model Air or Badger Minitaire paints (maybe just a few instead of an entire line) instead of trying to thin your own from GW paints or whatever. Learning to paint with an airbrush is difficult enough, you're not going to want to essentially learn how to make your own paints at the same time you're learning to use a new tool. If you use airbrush ready paint and end up having problems you'll know to focus on the airbrush instead of wondering if your airbrush is broken, or you're not using enough air pressure, or your compressor is broken, or your paint mix is too thin, or your paint mix is too thick, etc. It's just easier to learn with less variables. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 10:23 on Dec 20, 2013 |
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Dec 20, 2013 07:48
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TheBlobThing posted:I completely agree with what's been said. Quantity is almost a quality of its own when painting huge blocks of WFB models. The great thing about it though, is you can pretty much practice a lot of techniques on your core troops, so when it's time to paint the character models, you can go all out with what you've learned. Also, painting the centrepiece character models/big monsters to a higher standard really draws attention to them, and raises the overall quality of the army paint job. Thanks very much, Just need to do some practice I think and hopefully I'll get better the more I do
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Dec 20, 2013 08:33
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I bought some paints today (but no models to paint oddly enough heh) and I've seen the little videos of the citadel technical paints which look great, and i get the base/layer/shade arrangement they have now instead of foundations/whatevers/washes, but what's the deal with edge paints? Like is there anything actually different about them than "it's a colour with white/yellow/whatever pigment to make it lighter" it seems like a massively pointless set of paints unless you were really really scared about your inability to accurately match your tiny edge highlight mixes between squads or something?
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Dec 20, 2013 09:03
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Basically, yes, they're a bright top highlight for those too lazy or too concerned with accuracy to mix their own. Honestly, it's no bad thing to be able to paint the entire mini without mixing, it's a lot quicker and more accurate. If you can afford it of course.
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Dec 20, 2013 09:27
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Do the Vampire Counts Zombies come with additional weapon-less arm sprues or did you remove them all?
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Dec 20, 2013 10:14
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Monster w21 Faces posted:Do the Vampire Counts Zombies come with additional weapon-less arm sprues or did you remove them all? Uh, they come with a little bit of weapon-less arms, but mostly my zombies are Mantic.
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Dec 20, 2013 10:19
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Bucnasti posted:I know I've seen horse racing board game tokens someplace, but they were pretty small and low detail. How big are you looking for? Might be something to have laser cut from acrylic, or possibly 3d printed. Thanks, but those are a minimum order of 1,000 pcs, that's going to get pricey too.
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Dec 20, 2013 10:21
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Pacheeco posted:You're gonna want some Regdab, which is Badger's airbrush lubricant. It helps ward off "tip-dry", which is where paint starts to collect and dry on the needle tip causing clogs (which can happen really quickly with the .19mm Sotar needle), and you use it on all the airbrush internals to keep the brush parts moving freely. Just coat the needle with a light coating before you paint. Also you'll want some kind of "airbrush station" where you can set your airbrush down without spilling paint everywhere and also evacuate all the paint out. The Iwata-Medea cleaning station is a really good single brush station. Get yourself a 8oz or 16oz squirt (not spray) bottle you can put Windex in. Windex is a great airbrush cleaning fluid for when you need to switch colors on the fly. Also like a billion Q-Tips to clean out the cup and a tooth brush to scrub semi-dry paint off the airbrush nozzle. This but I just use a bottle of airbrush cleaner and a kitchen towel to clean mine and just make sure I dont clog it.
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Dec 20, 2013 10:27
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Pierzak posted:I broke down and ordered the discounted Sotar. Anything specific for it I should order while I have a cheaper/easier shipping option? I have a basic compressor/hose/etc. setup for an El Cheapo airbrush, what more does a quality airbrush need that might be problematic to get locally? What Pacheeco and serious gaylord said, but also check the thread on the hose you have - I think most generic hoses are iwata thread, which is 1/8", I think Badger is 5.5mm. Anyway, check the connector size of the hose you have, if it's a 1/8" female you'll need this connector:  to fit a Badger airbrush to an iwata or 1/8" hose. Since you have two airbrushes, it may be worth getting a couple of quick-disconnects so you can swap quickly from priming to detail work:  ^ This goes on the end of the hose and fits all quick disconnects ^  ^ This fits Badger airbrushes ^  ^ This fits iwata airbrushes ^ You'll need one base connector for the hose and then the suitable connectors for airbrushes - one Badger and one for whatever size your other airbrush is. I use QDs and they are FANTASTIC. They save loads of time that you'd otherwise spend screwing and unscrewing the hose, which means you have to change the Teflon tape regularly, etc. With a QD you just fit one on and forget about it.
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Dec 20, 2013 11:20
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quote:Badger stuff BTW, are quick disconnect one standard, or do I have to pay attention to the one I buy fitting the one I have (generic Iwata standard QD)? Pierzak fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Dec 20, 2013 |
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Dec 20, 2013 12:59
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Pierzak posted:So it seems all I'm mising is the lubricant and a Badger quick-disconnect adapter. Thanks! I'm pretty sure all the QDs are a standard size and shape, but I get all mine from the same place for all my brushes (by accident, not design). You just need to make sure you get the right connector for the generic brush you have.
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Dec 20, 2013 13:22
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Ayn Randi posted:I bought some paints today (but no models to paint oddly enough heh) and I've seen the little videos of the citadel technical paints which look great, and i get the base/layer/shade arrangement they have now instead of foundations/whatevers/washes, but what's the deal with edge paints? Like is there anything actually different about them than "it's a colour with white/yellow/whatever pigment to make it lighter" it seems like a massively pointless set of paints unless you were really really scared about your inability to accurately match your tiny edge highlight mixes between squads or something? Having premixed highlights saves a lot of paints for highlights saves a lot of time when doing an army. The normal color range is usually not subtle enough for a highlight of the previous color on the palette. That said, buying a whole pot instead of pre-mixing it yourself is generally a waste. Especially with gray paints, the $1.00 bottles work just fine, even mixed with $1.00 white or black.
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Dec 20, 2013 14:36
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I've gotten some great advice on the debris of civilisation from you Goons, but the stores I'm expecting delivery from are having problems - busy and hospital trips :s I have however made progress on another piece. I had plans to attach buttresses to my bulkheads right from the beginning, but the best way to do it eluded me until now. I had thought about casting the parts, but that would have caused all kinds of difficulties. One of my friends has access to a laser cutter and made me a batch of these from a concept sketch I made and some plasticard templates.   Each one is made of 3 parts and there are two different designs. 
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Dec 20, 2013 16:52
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I asked for some advice on this guy ages ago on making it look like real stone and figured now that I have painted him up I should put him up. It looks better in real life rather than this cell phone pick but you get the idea. I am not totally satisfied with the stone appearence but the OSL turned out pretty well especially since I didn't obsess over it. I did end up asking someone leading a painting class at Gencon this year for advice on doing the stone, and he said what has worked well in the past for him is to prime it in white and then take a bottle of black primer and hold it very far back and re-prime it so it only gets splotchy black. This shows through on the other layers and gives a really nice natural stone affect. Of course at this time I had already primed this guy in all black but I will plan to try that on the next stone thing I need to do. 
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Dec 20, 2013 17:08
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nesbit37 posted:I asked for some advice on this guy ages ago on making it look like real stone and figured now that I have painted him up I should put him up. It looks better in real life rather than this cell phone pick but you get the idea. I am not totally satisfied with the stone appearence but the OSL turned out pretty well especially since I didn't obsess over it. This turns out great, and it just so happens I own all the things in this picture with the exact same plans. Looks like I've got a weekend project!
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Dec 20, 2013 18:58
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A while back some of you may remember I posted some WIP pics of a Stormlord I worked on  Well I enjoyed the model so much I though I would try the Shadowsword as well. So here are some pics as to where I am so far: Assembled and primed:   And basecoated ready for pin wash and details:  
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Dec 20, 2013 22:51
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