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AvesPKS posted:What year 3 do you have? I have a 13 MS3 with the Bose audio and I've never had a problem with RottenTooth streaming. 
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Dec 15, 2013 19:01
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| # ? May 23, 2024 17:49 |
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My wire with the GLI worked perfectly until I broke the plug. edit: mine is a 2006 also, the auxmod gave me line in.
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Dec 16, 2013 06:31
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So, a big chunk of drywall in the freeway dented my door in my <7000mi Mazda 2. Goddammit. Anyone know a decent bodyshop in SoCal?
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Dec 17, 2013 06:26
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3, 6, and CX-5 all made the IIHS top safety+ list. Considering there's are only 22 cars on the list, that's pretty impressive for a smaller manufacturer like Mazda.
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Dec 19, 2013 18:02
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Cygni posted:3, 6, and CX-5 all made the IIHS top safety+ list. Considering there's are only 22 cars on the list, that's pretty impressive for a smaller manufacturer like Mazda. The new platform they share seems to be really stellar for rigidity, including crash protection. I think we'll start to see Mazda gaining in popularity more and more over the next few years.
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Dec 20, 2013 13:07
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Oh neat, the CS HPFP internals appear to have defects. Good thing I was too lazy to install it!
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Dec 24, 2013 03:50
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So out of the blue my wife's '03 6i decided it needed to have the valves and pistons get together on Saturday night and now after re-timing it cylinders 1 & 2 have zero compression. I'm not really interested in throwing the $1200+ for a junkyard Mazda 2.3 at this car, and I don't trust the rest of the engine to behave as this isn't the first time the timing jumped (last time it was by a tooth and it resulted in it being dead on the highway followed by a no-start condition.) Coming from the Ford world I know the 2.3 Duratec and the 2.3 MZR are nearly identical so I started doing some digging, as the Duratec 2.3 is about 1/2 to 1/4 the cost of a Mazda engine, and I found this guide to swap the Ford engine into a 6. Seems pretty straightforward, just have to swap a couple of bits from one engine to the other. Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't do this? I'll have access to my father-in-law's garage, which includes an extensive collection of tools, an industrial air compressor and an engine hoist (in addition to my father-in-law who has been restoring cars for longer than I've been alive.) I'm basically stuck between doing the franken-fix on her current car, trying to teach her how to drive stick and then putting her in my Focus with a performance clutch and lightweight flywheel (  ) or seeing if I can qualify for a car loan (doubtful, my credit is a bit beat up after 6 months of unemployment last year.)
Geoj fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Dec 24, 2013 |
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Dec 24, 2013 05:53
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I'd like to see some pics if you get it done. What's up with the fuel pumps rhyno?
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Dec 24, 2013 06:39
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CharlesM posted:I'd like to see some pics if you get it done. They said it didn't meet spec in mass production. New ones will be available in 4-6 weeks which isn't terrible since I won't have time to do anything for god knows how long.
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Dec 24, 2013 06:42
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Geoj posted:franken-fix This is happening. My father-in-law is on first-name basis with every scrap yard, salvage yard and auto recycler in the tri-county area and just sourced a 2.3 Duratec with a broken valve cover (something that has to be replaced anyways) for $300.
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Dec 24, 2013 16:41
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So in addition to getting the replacement pump internals I also get a $200 store credit with CS. That knocks the full exhaust down under $1000.
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Dec 24, 2013 17:00
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Geoj posted:This is happening. My father-in-law is on first-name basis with every scrap yard, salvage yard and auto recycler in the tri-county area and just sourced a 2.3 Duratec with a broken valve cover (something that has to be replaced anyways) for $300. This is twisted and I love it. I can't wait to see someone else take this to the logical conclusion and jam an MZR from an MS3 into a Zetec Focus wagon. e: Or a T5 from a C30 into a manual transmission last-gen Fusion.
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Dec 25, 2013 07:43
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Not a MS3 owner, but I have a 2007 Mazda3 with the 2.3 liter motor and ~75,000 miles. This morning I drove it just fine however later in the day it refused to start. Cranks just fine, battery seems strong, strong smell of unburnt fuel from the tail pipe. However I hear a buzz coming from the throttle body when the car is on. I've isolated it by unplugging the throttle body while the buzz is occurring and the buzz goes away as soon as I unplug it. Seems to me that drive by wire just bit me in the rear end and I'll need a new throttle body, but I'm hoping beyond hope that I wont necessarily need to spend a few hundred dollars on a throttle body and perhaps there's some (easy?) way to resurrect this thing. Edit: Magically it started working again this morning. Hooray! Amandyke fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Dec 26, 2013 |
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Dec 25, 2013 12:17
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CharlesM posted:I'd like to see some pics if you get it done. This isn't quite as much of a frankenfix as I was expecting. The Ford and Mazda engines are probably 98% identical, the only major differences in this swap are the intake cam (the sensor ring for VCT is different), valve cover & side timing cover (PS engine mount is integrated into the timing cover and is different between the two, valve cover is specific to timing cover) and the oil pan (Ford runs the dipstick through the head/block, Mazda has an external pipe that enters the front of the pan.  Engine out (yes I'm aware of the ricer CAI, the car came with it and I don't want to spend a few hundred on a replacement factory airbox)  Swapping the intake cam, original engine in foreground, Ford engine in background.  Ford engine awaiting oil pan swap.  Ford engine with swapped parts back in the car and bolted up to the transmission. This is as far as we got tonight, the transmission didn't bolt up smoothly and we're probably going to separate them again tomorrow and make sure everything is lined up right before putting everything back together again.  Bonus pictures of damaged intake valves in original engine. This is with the intake cam completely removed, three of four cylinders had bent valves that couldn't close. Geoj fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Dec 28, 2013 |
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Dec 28, 2013 05:27
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I just bought a CX7 (2.3 turbo), with a bad engine, failed VVT, valves looked the same as that. I had another head sitting around from an overheated motor, it was warped. Pulled enough valves from the overheated motor to fix the other engine, along with a new VVT solenoid and chain. Back on the road with full compression, for now....
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Dec 28, 2013 06:16
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Amandyke posted:Not a MS3 owner, but I have a 2007 Mazda3 with the 2.3 liter motor and ~75,000 miles. This morning I drove it just fine however later in the day it refused to start. Cranks just fine, battery seems strong, strong smell of unburnt fuel from the tail pipe. However I hear a buzz coming from the throttle body when the car is on. I've isolated it by unplugging the throttle body while the buzz is occurring and the buzz goes away as soon as I unplug it. The buzz is normal from the throttle body. Did you get any codes out of it?
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Dec 28, 2013 06:19
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SiB posted:The buzz is normal from the throttle body. Did you get any codes out of it? After it started up the check engine light was on and I was able to pull these codes (which would have been stored after I had disconnected the battery after it had initially stopped starting). The CEL went off after driving it around a bit and a few key cycles. Confirmed Trouble Codes P0222: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low (Powertrain, Generic) P0223: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High (Powertrain, Generic) P2135: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A"/"B" Voltage Correlation (Powertrain, Generic) P2135: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation (Powertrain, GM) P0123: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit High (Powertrain, Generic) I've read about some TSB/Recall for the Mazda 6 throttle body but haven't found any related TSB/Recalls for the Mazda 3.
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Dec 28, 2013 07:20
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I've seen DBW throttles freak out on Subarus, Saabs and Deltas before. Sometimes cleaning them with cleaner works. They usually have a self test mode to check function and if it's gummed up it throws codes.
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Dec 28, 2013 17:50
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Amandyke posted:After it started up the check engine light was on and I was able to pull these codes (which would have been stored after I had disconnected the battery after it had initially stopped starting). The CEL went off after driving it around a bit and a few key cycles. Those codes are from when you had the key on and unplugged the throttle body probably.
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Dec 28, 2013 21:14
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SiB posted:Those codes are from when you had the key on and unplugged the throttle body probably. That is something I did. Good catch. Aside from potentially taking some electronics cleaner to the plugs, any idea what could have caused this?
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Dec 28, 2013 22:09
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Amandyke posted:That is something I did. Good catch. Aside from potentially taking some electronics cleaner to the plugs, any idea what could have caused this? My guess is maybe something like a crank sensor or similar. Actually did you fill your gas tank recently?
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Dec 28, 2013 22:43
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Geoj posted:the transmission didn't bolt up smoothly and we're probably going to separate them again tomorrow and make sure everything is lined up right before putting everything back together again. Found the problem - the new engine is out of a manual transmission car and we forgot to remove the clutch pilot bearing before installing the flexplate  Got everything about 85% back together, all that's left is a few more coolant/vacuum hoses, some wiring connectors, getting the accessory belt back on, putting the battery back in and filling fluids (oil & coolant.)
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Dec 29, 2013 02:10
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SiB posted:My guess is maybe something like a crank sensor or similar. Actually did you fill your gas tank recently? The car was at about 1/8th of a tank when the issue occurred. since then it's been filled.
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Dec 29, 2013 02:11
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Geoj posted:Found the problem - the new engine is out of a manual transmission car and we forgot to remove the clutch pilot bearing before installing the flexplate I'm impressed, that much would have taken me about a month 
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Dec 29, 2013 02:21
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My Ford engine swap is 99% done, everything is in and the engine is running - much better than the original, finally got rid of a hard start and rough idle problem its had since we got it three years ago. In addition I'm hoping once it gets back on the road an increase in fuel economy and power and a reduction in oil consumption (it used to eat about a quart of oil per ~1,000 miles) will materialize as well. Today my father-in-law had everything else put together that we didn't get to last night and had been running it for a bit before I showed up. I had to replace a broken vacuum nipple with a barbed brass fitting for the DPFE EGR sensor, and we're kicking ourselves for not replacing the crank pulley seal while everything was out, as its now weeping oil (and the parts store only sold it as part of a $35 gasket kit  ) It should be back on the road tomorrow and I won't have to take my lunch at odd hours to chauffeur my wife to work everyday. Geoj fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Dec 30, 2013 |
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Dec 30, 2013 01:52
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Who has an intake on their Speed3? Brand/thoughts? The topic has been beaten to death on the MSF forums - from the Corksport one to JBR - with all sorts of magical power numbers on stock cars. What's been the experience here?
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Jan 2, 2014 17:06
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I've had the short cp-e intake for about 40K miles now, no issues at all. Great sound and power increase. e: this one: http://cp-e.com/wp/product/mazdaspeed3-xcelnano-air-intake/
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Jan 2, 2014 17:11
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My MS3 had the Mazdaspeed (AEM) intake on it when I bought it. I have no reference point for a stock car in terms of sound / performance, but the fit wasn't quite as good as I'd have expected from a 'factory' piece.
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Jan 2, 2014 17:25
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Intake is good power for the price. I have the Mazdaspeed (AEM) one configured as SRI after I hydrolocked. E: oh oh, almost forgot. Car just got towed off to the shop. An S2K decided to make out with the back of my parked car on New Years    air- fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jan 2, 2014 |
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Jan 2, 2014 22:04
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air- posted:Intake is good power for the price. I have the Mazdaspeed (AEM) one configured as SRI after I hydrolocked. Holy poo poo, Mazda and S2000 curse of the same colour in the same post.
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Jan 3, 2014 03:37
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo, Mazda and S2000 curse of the same colour in the same post. It was DESTINY.
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Jan 3, 2014 03:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Holy poo poo, Mazda and S2000 curse of the same colour in the same post. That's my S2000's color 
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Jan 3, 2014 18:21
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Rhyno posted:It was DESTINY. I'm just surprised the resulting collision didn't wipe out the entire block.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:29
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Inspector's done the estimate and I'm 2+ weeks without the car but I'm gonna have them take care of other scrapes/dents and external things while it's at a reputable body shop, perhaps maybe even a new front bumper. My car will seem a lot nicer compared to the state I brought it in.
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Jan 6, 2014 19:17
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Trip report - finally drove my sister in law's 2014 Mazda3 i Touring sedan last night. Holy hell did Mazda knock it out of the park on that car. I knew the interior would be better than my 2007 MS3 GT but not by that much. Ride is firm without being harsh, steering is light without being numb, and even the two liter engine gets up and goes without issue. The shifter is better than my MS3's ever was. Seriously considering buying one if my hot hatch plans don't work out.
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Jan 19, 2014 15:59
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I'm very curious to see what they do with the new MS3
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Jan 19, 2014 16:03
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Picked up the car yesterday. The shop even fixed up the tabs on both bumpers so it's all flush again  
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Jan 19, 2014 16:32
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FYHN sticker..  Other than that, looks clean. Good work.
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Jan 19, 2014 16:43
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Has anyone here modded their MS3 and blown the warranty? I'm thinking of putting on a few bolt ons (ultimately including a downpipe) as well as a tune, and especially because of the downpipe, which I certainly won't be able to uninstall whenever I bring it in for service, I'm pretty sure I'm going to kiss my warranty goodbye. I think that may be ok for me personally, both in principle (Mazda shouldn't be on the hook if I blow up my engine) and financially (if I have to replace parts at my own expense) but otherwise I'm not sure what to expect. Will resale be tougher, with people worried about the lack of transferable warranty? Am I going to get grief about unrelated parts (e.g., if the power windows, which obviously are unrelated to any engine mods, crap out during the warranty period), etc.
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Jan 19, 2014 22:59
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| # ? May 23, 2024 17:49 |
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You're really going to struggle on resale with a bunch of aftermarket parts. At best you'll get nothing back on the parts if you sell it, worst is nobody wants to buy a modded up car with a reputation for attracting hoons. As for the warranty, if it's something that could be related to the aftermarket stuff, you'll likely be declined warranty service. Your warranty doesn't get voided as a whole. Something unrelated like your radio, power windows will be fine.
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Jan 20, 2014 01:12
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