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I build everything from basic forced induction shortblocks ($2600) to tricked out n/a race longblocks with fully ported heads ($7k++), and I ship them all over the country. I'm not a hobbyist doing it on the side (anymore) - building race motors and race parts for Miatas is my day job. Shoot me an email if you want some more info: info at Trackspeed Engineering dot com.
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Dec 27, 2013 09:12
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Phone posted:What are you trying to do? Boost on a budget on a 16 year old daily driver. Savington, thats a tempting offer and a good price, but i imagine the shipping costs from california to south florida would be catastrophically expensive. MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Dec 27, 2013 |
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Dec 27, 2013 13:38
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Trackspeed is great, bought a few bits off of them and shipping was quick and easy.
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Dec 27, 2013 15:56
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He quoted me like $200 for freight.
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Dec 27, 2013 16:59
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Yeah shipping a motor is not that much, especially if you can pick it up at a ltl terminal. Delivery to home adds like $75 bucks.
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Dec 27, 2013 17:04
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Shipping, compared to UPS, is fairly cheap once you strap something to a pallet.
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Dec 27, 2013 19:02
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Boost on a budget on a 16 year old daily driver. Where in FL do you live?
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Dec 28, 2013 00:16
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Hollywood, Near Ft.Lauderdale. I actually know the guys at Treasure coast miata, they might be an option.
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Dec 28, 2013 15:51
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So my crappy all seasons have are finally getting scary to drive in the rain. Im probably going to pick up some Sport Comp 2s to replace them for a daily tire. Any good reason not to get them?
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Dec 29, 2013 19:22
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Yeah, buy Rivals instead.
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Dec 29, 2013 19:48
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I already have a second set of wheels with RS-3s on them. When those RS-3s get too bad, Ill probably go to Rivals. Right now though, I still do pretty well locally on my 1.5 season old RS-3s. And the sport comps are $40 a tire cheaper and in stock at tire rack.
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Dec 29, 2013 20:06
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Has anyone experienced this kind of idling issue? My miata is a 95. When I start the car, the rpms fluctuate up and down between 200 and 800. It shakes and almost stalls when it dips down to 200. Once I actually get the car in gear and moving, everything is normal. This usually only happens after I've driven the car for a while and the engine is already warm when I start it. Any ideas?
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Dec 30, 2013 14:20
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So the battery died on my newly purchased '06 NC. I charged it, put it back in and now the DSC warning is on. You know, the little icon of the car swerving. Is something borked?
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Dec 30, 2013 19:29
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Rhyno posted:So the battery died on my newly purchased '06 NC. I charged it, put it back in and now the DSC warning is on. You know, the little icon of the car swerving. Is something borked? Hmm, back in the day you could unhook the positive terminal and hold down the brake for a minute to reset most cars ECUs. I'm not sure if this still works, but there should be an equally easy to reset it to see if its an actual problem. 12345random fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Dec 30, 2013 |
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Dec 30, 2013 21:07
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oh rly posted:Has anyone experienced this kind of idling issue? My miata is a 95. Having owned a lot of old cars this is pretty common if it's happening how I think it is. The engine temperature is getting read as fully warmed up when you first start it up, but all of the coolant in the radiator has already become ambient and it rapidly cools down the engine when the water pump starts moving again. The computer is still trying to give it a low fuel idle for a fully warmed up engine, but the water is cooling the cylinders down too quickly for it to idle smoothly. After a little while the temperature equalizes and the computer can get a normal idle going again.
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Dec 30, 2013 22:50
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oh rly posted:Has anyone experienced this kind of idling issue? My miata is a 95. This happened to me and it turned out to be a super dirty air filter. Seems way too obvious, but worth a check.
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Dec 31, 2013 19:28
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Mine used to do exactly that. It happened less after cleaning the crap out of the intake.
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Jan 2, 2014 07:33
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Went out for a nice drive in the snow yesterday. With winter tires and a hard top my NA drove fine, but things got messy on the way home. When it's cold out the wipers are super slow and the windshield washers are weak. It seems like they aren't getting enough power. It would get dangerous in some serious slop if the windshield gets too dirty. Has anyone else run into this problem?
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Jan 2, 2014 20:20
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I live in MN, we've had a cold streak of many sub zero days. On some of these days the inside of my NCs windshield had frozen over. Any suggestions on how to avoid this? A thick cost of rain x?
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Jan 3, 2014 15:23
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1791apparel posted:I live in MN, we've had a cold streak of many sub zero days. Maybe leave a big bag of desiccant on the dash? I dunno if that works in extreme cold though
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Jan 3, 2014 17:21
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The inside of my windows all froze over the other day on my NA, and my wipers were super slow but I was OK - snow tires made driving pretty fun. Just warm the car up for ~15 minutes with the heat on full blast and there won't be any problems.
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Jan 3, 2014 17:58
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1791apparel posted:I live in MN, we've had a cold streak of many sub zero days. Just run the windshield defroster before you go anywhere (I usually put the heat one pip from full blast so the engine can heat up a little quicker). Don't put the car on recirc, but outside air. This happens on my cars a lot, unfortunately. A friend of mine used to use a little dish of baking soda but that led to an uncomfortable cop conversation when getting a speeding ticket.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:04
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Moisture inside the car will do it as well, snow on floormats, etc.  AFTERMARKET SEAT QUESTIONWhich one would AI go with in an NA? -2 Sparco Speed 2s for $400 Or -1 Recaro Profi SPG for $700 Stock seats, no harnesses or rollbar yet. Both are used and in good condition, pretty sure the Recaro is real.
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Jan 3, 2014 19:19
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2x Momo Start/Sparco Sprint for $700.
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Jan 3, 2014 19:31
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Just run the windshield defroster before you go anywhere (I usually put the heat one pip from full blast so the engine can heat up a little quicker). Don't put the car on recirc, but outside air. I need to place more emphasis on FROZEN. After 20 minutes on defrost yesterday I used my scraper for parts. I don't have any leaks in the roof or seals either. Moisture during the summer has never gotten into the car. Any other suggestions? I park outside during the day, so it's a frustrating way to end the work day.
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Jan 3, 2014 20:43
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Phone posted:2x Momo Start/Sparco Sprint for $700. Sparco sprints are miserable, don't do that.
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Jan 3, 2014 20:54
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Larrymer posted:Sparco sprints are miserable, don't do that. Sit in seats yourself, I have a sprint seat in mine that I daily drive and find it quite comfortable. It's better on long trips than the stock seats, at least for me.
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Jan 3, 2014 20:56
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1791apparel posted:I live in MN, we've had a cold streak of many sub zero days.
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Jan 3, 2014 23:05
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TrueChaos posted:Sit in seats yourself, I have a sprint seat in mine that I daily drive and find it quite comfortable. It's better on long trips than the stock seats, at least for me. Yep. I had them in my miata basically because they are cheap and they fit (hard to find combo). It's all in how they're mounted and the angle of them as well since they're fixed buckets. They have very little padding (Light weight!) and the shoulder area is pretty narrow.
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Jan 3, 2014 23:28
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destructo posted:When you get out of the car, leave the doors open for a bit to let your moisture out. Hmm, seems simple. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!
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Jan 3, 2014 23:41
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So my 95 NA's heater just quit about two weeks ago mid-drive. Went from cooking me to freezing me in less than a minute. I went all over the bay looking for leaks or anything of the sort, and there is no leakage into the cabin. I have not lost a drop of coolant. The flaps on the airbox are functioning just as they were as well. I flushed the entire cooling system and refilled with 30/70 and I've got a smidgeon of heat back, but nothing like the rolling oven that let me ride top-down in freezing weather. I studied the flow rate by pulling off the heater input hose while running the car, and it seemed weak as hell, which is odd because when flushing the cooling system with the hose, everything seemed to flow juuust fine. What would you guys suggest checking? My first act is probably going to be the thermostat unless anyone has any other suggestions.
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Jan 3, 2014 23:47
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I'm not sure how I feel about this post, but I'm kind of annoyed because its saying nothing.http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=6712649#post6712649 posted:Okay. I can't say much and what I will say is veiled. Please don't be offended. I have to be careful with the little info that is fed my way. I am not told to tell others so I always wait until I judge it is okay and weigh the value of the information and it's level of confidentiality. What auto shows are coming up that are international? Phone fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Jan 4, 2014 |
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Jan 4, 2014 05:57
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craig588 posted:Having owned a lot of old cars this is pretty common if it's happening how I think it is. The engine temperature is getting read as fully warmed up when you first start it up, but all of the coolant in the radiator has already become ambient and it rapidly cools down the engine when the water pump starts moving again. The computer is still trying to give it a low fuel idle for a fully warmed up engine, but the water is cooling the cylinders down too quickly for it to idle smoothly. After a little while the temperature equalizes and the computer can get a normal idle going again. LeftistMuslimObama posted:This happened to me and it turned out to be a super dirty air filter. Seems way too obvious, but worth a check. Ziploc posted:Mine used to do exactly that. Thanks to each of you. Craig, that makes sense. It would occur after 15 minutes of cooling off. Luckily, it is perfectly fine if I drive it several hours apart. I will dive deeper into it this weekend. Hopefully it is something easy.
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Jan 4, 2014 06:44
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Phone posted:2x Momo Start/Sparco Sprint for $700. I guess it'd help if I could find regulations for hpde here, I haven't seen anything about mismatched seats. The Recaro will be way way more comfortable but I'd rather replace my busted suspension 
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Jan 4, 2014 19:59
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If the HPDE club is worth anything, they'll have stipulations about equivalent safety for driver and passenger because people get kind of uneasy when the driver has 6 points and the instructor has a stock seat and a 3 point belt.
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Jan 4, 2014 20:19
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Yeah, that's true. The club I run with will make exceptions if they know you though, see what they say. It's pretty funny when the one dude no one knows shows up driving like a dick and they refuse him based on the equal restraints rule, and yet there are... 3-4 new people running with unequal restraints. Though, everyone out without equal restraints had lots of AutoX & ice racing experience and wasn't a hot head.
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Jan 5, 2014 02:10
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Has anyone here done the MazdaTribute/FordEscape washer nozzle upgrade? As usual, M.net is useless. Some people say it's a direct swap, others say they shoot over the whole car and need a regulator to tame them.
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Jan 5, 2014 02:37
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Ziploc posted:Has anyone here done the MazdaTribute/FordEscape washer nozzle upgrade? As usual, M.net is useless. Some people say it's a direct swap, others say they shoot over the whole car and need a regulator to tame them. I'm interested in the outcome... The stock washers on both of my NBs would get me as wet as the windshield when the top or windows were down. My NAs and NC didn't have the head cleaning feature.
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Jan 5, 2014 02:43
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Stock NA/NB nozzles are adjustable. Stick a pin in each hole and you should be able to point them where you want them. If you don't like the streams, you can upgrade fluidic or 'fanning' nozzles from other Ford cars.
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Jan 5, 2014 03:27
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I just did the washer swap a couple weeks ago because the stock ones were hopelessly plugged and/or messed up. The new ones have a perfect fan pattern and hit about 2/3 the way up the windshield on my NB. Cost me $14. edit: I forgot to mention, it took me 10 minutes to do with a pocket screwdriver to pop the little tabs loose. Be careful taking the hoses off. Joe Mama fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 5, 2014 |
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Jan 5, 2014 03:34
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