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Paper Mac posted:The other day I was thinking to myself, maybe I should build one of those hot wire thingies. A bunsen burner would be much easier, though. Thanks. Or you could just pony up $40 and get a real hot knife that will probably have a far smaller chance of accidentally setting your house on fire or killing you with toxic fumes.
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Dec 31, 2013 21:34
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berzerkmonkey posted:Or you could just pony up $40 and get a real hot knife that will probably have a far smaller chance of accidentally setting your house on fire or killing you with toxic fumes. These are pretty nice btw, I have the whole set.
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Dec 31, 2013 21:50
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Here's a tip for Citadel's modular hills. Do not undercoat the threads of where they join together. The friction makes it a sod to separate them again.
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Dec 31, 2013 21:57
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LumberingTroll posted:What material are those cut out of? It looks like a thick cardboard. It's 1mm card. Not so great for single layer, load bearing construction, but several layers together are really strong. It's the same stuff this guy uses: http://www.lasercutcard.co.za/scenery/container-terminal I have several of his containers and very much recommend them.
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Jan 2, 2014 14:19
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I made the molds for the steampunk walls (using a urethane varnish to seal them, and then a mold release solved my need to re-cast), for the mostly ruined walls, and for the crates. I like how they turned out. My vibrating table ended up being a bit too powerful, and I mucked loose the mostly-intact walls. I'll need to wait to get some more mold material before I make that mold. Here are the molds for a couple of the wall sets and the crate scatter terrain. I probably could have planned that last one better to use less mold material. Also, I ran out of waxed paper, but I found some pretty fly shelf-liner to use for dealing with resin spills.  Here are some quick photos of the casts from them: Steel-reinforced walls:  Mostly ruined stone walls:  Crate scatter terrain:  I've also got my eye on doing some ruins in various styles. I'll do some the same stone style as the walls (the rough-cut random stone pattern), but I'd also like to do some other styles, like a more classical ruin. Toward that end, I picked up some cheap cake toppers, sawed one into pieces, and made molds of them. I them cast them in plaster. This will let me carve them to (hopefully) look appropriately ruined - I'll then use these to make various ruins that I'll cast as whole pieces (a barricade formed by a fallen column, and area of rough terrain with some partially intact columns, etc. I love found objects! The pieces in the front are plaster casts with an original intact column in the back.  Finally, I also finally broke down and got some tools from Hot Wire Foam Factory. Marvelous stuff! We've been using a lot more line-of-sight blocking terrain at our local club, so I wanted to try some big stuff. Here's the start of a butte carved out of foam. For scale, the wall piece in the front is 1 inch high,  If you can't tell, I've been on winter break, hence the increased hobby time! Germ fucked around with this message at 06:30 on Jan 3, 2014 |
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Jan 3, 2014 06:26
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If you're willing, I would love to buy some of those walls and crates, Germ.
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Jan 3, 2014 17:10
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Yeah, I'd probably do that too. As long as you don't mind if I duplicate them (for personal use only), that is.
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Jan 3, 2014 17:18
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I like big buttes, and I cannot lie. I've been wanting to make some of those for Gorkamorka scenery. I don't know if I'd ever need any of the wall sections, but they are pretty drat nice. I'm guess they are low, non-LOS blocking walls?
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Jan 3, 2014 17:20
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Well, the one in front of that butte was stated as an inch tall, so there you go.
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Jan 3, 2014 17:24
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Germ posted:
What do you use to glue the pink foam together?
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Jan 3, 2014 18:19
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Hubis posted:What do you use to glue the pink foam together? I've had no issues using Gorilla Brand wood glue. But admittedly I didn't do any wire cutting after the parts have been glued.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:22
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Indolent Bastard posted:I've had no issues using Gorilla Brand wood glue. But admittedly I didn't do any wire cutting after the parts have been glued. OK I'll try it out. I've had issues with some of the PVA glues I've tried just refusing to dry, but I was also trying to glue fairly large pieces which might have been my mistake.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:41
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Hubis posted:OK I'll try it out. I've had issues with some of the PVA glues I've tried just refusing to dry, but I was also trying to glue fairly large pieces which might have been my mistake. PVA should be used sparingly, only very thin coverage on both parts to be glued, then clamp or otherwise bind the parts together (ideally) and leave overnight. One major issue I run into often is gamers who are impatient and won't wait for stuff to cure/dry/whatever.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:55
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I need to actually measure how much resin goes into the stuff to figure out pricing, but I'll drop a note with pricing info when I do. Thanks for the support, and rest assured that any scratch you toss my way will be immediately spent on more terrain-building material! I looked into glues ahead of time, as I knew I'd be wire cutting. I always used plain old Elmers PVA before, but was concerned a hot wire wouldn't make it through. For these, I used Elmers spray adhesive - the stuff advertised for crafts. Quick-setting, so I can start cutting pretty quickly after adhering them. Try and find spray adhesive with as little acetone as possible (that's the stuff that dissolves pink foam). The Elmers craft formulation supposedly has less acetone than their typical spray adhesive. It also helps if you spray at a little bit of a distance, as it gives the acetone more of a chance to evaporate. Scale-wise, the walls are 1" high, and 1/2" thick. The bottom of the butte (heh) is 1" high, and each of the big sections are 2" high.
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Jan 3, 2014 18:57
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I glue pink foam together using a hot glue gun. It bonds quickly and is solid and workable within 30 minutes or so. The heat kind of melts the foam just a little bit so that it doesn't create a gap between the pieces, but it doesn't actually chemically melt the foam so there's no fumes.
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Jan 4, 2014 23:59
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Indolent Bastard posted:PVA should be used sparingly, only very thin coverage on both parts to be glued, then clamp or otherwise bind the parts together (ideally) and leave overnight. One major issue I run into often is gamers who are impatient and won't wait for stuff to cure/dry/whatever. Hey you! I have plastic terrain gubbins for you! Check your pm's when you've got a sec
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Jan 5, 2014 09:20
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Anyone have any experience with fillers for polyurethane resin? How about Smooth-ons ure-fil 15 micro balloons? I'm looking for a wayto cut the cost of larger castings without losing detail. How strongly do micro balloons effect viscosity? if I was getting good, bubble free castings with a low viscosity resin (and no pressure pot) before adding micro balloons, will it necessitate a pressure pot with the addition of a filler?
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Jan 5, 2014 22:12
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Germ posted:Anyone have any experience with fillers for polyurethane resin? How about Smooth-ons ure-fil 15 micro balloons? I'm looking for a wayto cut the cost of larger castings without losing detail. How strongly do micro balloons effect viscosity? if I was getting good, bubble free castings with a low viscosity resin (and no pressure pot) before adding micro balloons, will it necessitate a pressure pot with the addition of a filler? That I don't know, but if what you are trying to do is reduce the cost of castings, you could look at using plaster and additives. You add polymers in liquid form to the plaster mix to make the plaster cast a lot tougher. And plaster is cheaper than resin - also wears your moulds out a lot slower, if at all. http://www.specialplasters.co.uk/index.php?_a=product&product_id=82
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Jan 6, 2014 00:02
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So I've been working on some winter-themed terrain for my LGS.         The only thing I actually made was the big ice blocks, which was carved from pink foam and covered in a mix of latex primer, sand, and wood glue. Everything else, was half-painted stuff kicking around at the store that I decided to fix up. I'm not entirely sure where it came from, either. The barricades, sand bag, and little building look to be from Forgeworld, but it's not up on their site so who knows. The river, not a clue; at first I though it was Armorcast but that doesn't seem to be the case. 
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Jan 8, 2014 16:03
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Slimnoid posted:I'm not entirely sure where it came from, either. The barricades, sand bag, and little building look to be from Forgeworld, but it's not up on their site so who knows. The river, not a clue; at first I though it was Armorcast but that doesn't seem to be the case. There's a lot of really cool terrain they made for Cities of Death that they no longer sell unfortunately (I want those booby traps!) No idea about the river though.
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Jan 8, 2014 16:25
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Germ those walls are incredible. Are they tall enough to block LOS for standard sized models? Count me in on the 'wanting these' list. Did you buy a vibrating table or make one? Do you find it helps your casts? I have just dabbled in making some press molds and a couple of random bits and pieces, but I'm having trouble getting my resin to cooperate. I'm not sure if I need a slower-drying resin, to give it more time to seep into the corners of everything, or a vacuum chamber / vibrating table to help shake air loose.
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Jan 8, 2014 16:37
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Slimnoid posted:Winter Wonderland Those look great! Zhent posted:Germ those walls are incredible. Are they tall enough to block LOS for standard sized models? Count me in on the 'wanting these' list. Nah, the walls are only an inch high. I've wanted to do sets of taller ones, that can be used as kind of a poor man's Zone Mortalis, but I need to figure out a way to make the casts less expensive. I have some experiments planned with some fillers, but it'll likely be a bit before I can try stuff out. For the vibrating table, I just use one of those ratchet-webbing tie-down straps to secure a hand sander (the oscilating kind, not the belt kind) to a piece of plywood, and put the whole thing on a stack of old towels. I don't use it for resin, but use it to knock some bubbles out of mixed silicone before I pour a mold and when I'm casting plaster. For resin, the best "first step" in getting better castings seems to be using a splash of mold release and a light dusting of talcum powder. The talc serves to draw the resin onto the surface of the mold a bit better, and provides a better texture for painting than a you would get if you cast it without. After that, the next step up would be getting a pressure chamber, then getting a vacuum chamber. When you say press-mold, are you using greenstuff? Are you trying a two-piece mold, or an open faced mold? How big are the pieces you're trying to cast? How is the resin not cooperating?
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Jan 8, 2014 18:32
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Germ posted:Nah, the walls are only an inch high. I've wanted to do sets of taller ones, that can be used as kind of a poor man's Zone Mortalis, but I need to figure out a way to make the casts less expensive. I have some experiments planned with some fillers, but it'll likely be a bit before I can try stuff out. Whatever route you take though, please keep us informed - I've got some large items that I'd like to cast, but haven't bothered to because I can't figure out how to do them economically (that, and I'm lazy.)
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Jan 8, 2014 21:59
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The river is GF9/Battlefront.
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Jan 8, 2014 22:36
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El Estrago Bonito posted:The river is GF9/Battlefront. I imagine it's old then, because I don't see it anywhere on GF9. The only ones I see are the pre-painted ones, and the ones I did were resin and unpainted before I got my hands on them.
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Jan 9, 2014 03:55
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Here's one for the 6mm 'gothic sci-fi' lovers: Exodus Wars release 6mm gothic building walls £17.95 gets you 16 walls, which you can use to make 4 complete buildings (or more, for the more inventive of you out there) Not a bad deal, a little cheaper would have been nice but I'm happy to pay that price if 6mm modular terrain kits are something they're going to look into doing more of. Have a shiny new pic: 
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Jan 10, 2014 12:34
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Slimnoid posted:I imagine it's old then, because I don't see it anywhere on GF9. The only ones I see are the pre-painted ones, and the ones I did were resin and unpainted before I got my hands on them. In that case they might be very very old Armorcast ones. Were they cream colored resin or grey colored resin? Edit: Yeah it's the Armorcast one.
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Jan 10, 2014 12:54
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El Estrago Bonito posted:In that case they might be very very old Armorcast ones. Were they cream colored resin or grey colored resin? Cream colored. They were old as hell and just sitting in a bag under one of the gaming table, and no one could say who had brought it in. I imagined it was Armorcast, but they didn't have anything on their site which was close to what I painted up.
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Jan 10, 2014 20:47
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Slimnoid posted:Cream colored. They were old as hell and just sitting in a bag under one of the gaming table, and no one could say who had brought it in. Yeah that's early Armorcast stuff, I think from the times they still made things for GW. Also, since people had asked about the cool 3D dungeon tiles, they are actually for sale now:  http://www.etsy.com/listing/173525486/brakenboard-3d-tabletop-battlegrid-tiles?ref=shop_home_active_1 http://www.etsy.com/listing/173933083/brakenboard-stand-up-hero-tokens?ref=shop_home_feat_4
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Jan 14, 2014 03:44
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I have to say, I was expecting MDF terrain to be quite a bit cheaper. Trying to find a set for a 4' x 4' board for Infinity/40K but god drat.
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Jan 22, 2014 14:11
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ijyt posted:I have to say, I was expecting MDF terrain to be quite a bit cheaper. Trying to find a set for a 4' x 4' board for Infinity/40K but god drat. Here you go:  http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wargames-...=item5afa6fb800
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Jan 22, 2014 14:31
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I've had my eye on that seller for ages, I think those are the cheapest MDF sets I can find anywhere, and they look really good too.
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Jan 22, 2014 15:43
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ijyt posted:I have to say, I was expecting MDF terrain to be quite a bit cheaper. Trying to find a set for a 4' x 4' board for Infinity/40K but god drat. The Underground Lasers stuff I've linked before is having a second kickstarter on Feb 1. He wants to buy a second laser cutter, and plans to fund it with a new line of Infinity-intended stuff including elevated highways and a full train for the Paradiso campaign (I assume an Infinity player will know what that means). If that's something you're interested in, I'll be dumping the link in the KS thread when it launches, his first project came up with some good terrain at good prices.
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Jan 23, 2014 10:51
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NTRabbit posted:The Underground Lasers stuff I've linked before is having a second kickstarter on Feb 1. He wants to buy a second laser cutter, and plans to fund it with a new line of Infinity-intended stuff including elevated highways and a full train for the Paradiso campaign (I assume an Infinity player will know what that means). If that's something you're interested in, I'll be dumping the link in the KS thread when it launches, his first project came up with some good terrain at good prices. I'll take a look, thanks! I took a gander at the old KS and while the prices seem decent enough, that $50 shipping hurts.
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Jan 23, 2014 10:58
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God drat it. Looks like Gale Force 9 isn't producing Battlefield in a Box anymore. I've been trying to find Badlands Rocks for ages, and the one place I thought still had them is telling me they're "having trouble getting stock from their suppliers". Even messaged the FB page for GF9 in hopes they have an answer, but it's looking grim.  e: Upshot though, found this amazing tutorial: http://www.3t-studios.com/archives/2642 ijyt fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 22:17
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ijyt posted:God drat it. Looks like Gale Force 9 isn't producing Battlefield in a Box anymore. I've been trying to find Badlands Rocks for ages, and the one place I thought still had them is telling me they're "having trouble getting stock from their suppliers". My LGS has a set I could probably hook you up. PM me or email tony3play at gmail.
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Jan 23, 2014 23:08
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ijyt posted:
I've looked and in my area finding large bark like that is impossible... Side note, anyone know of some good tutorials for painting sci-fi buildings? Stuff for infinity for example, I got a lot of MDF terrain I need to paint and unsure where / how to start. Ive got a nice airbrush setup so something that will utilize that would make things easier.
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Jan 23, 2014 23:18
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LumberingTroll posted:I've looked and in my area finding large bark like that is impossible... Home Depot. Or really any garden store is going to have some kind of big bag o' bark, for use in landscaping and mulching around plants in a garden.
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Jan 23, 2014 23:27
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^^^ I was going to go that route, but it seems the UK is pretty nuts about its decorative bark because the smallest bag I found was 100 litres.LumberingTroll posted:I've looked and in my area finding large bark like that is impossible... Have you got trees in or near your area? Pine bark would be good as would Oak. (Just don't rip it off healthy trees). I've also ordered some MDF terrain, and the way I was going to go about it is is to prime it grey (Halfords), then just drybrush some off white to give it a worn look. If you want to give it a rusty metal look, salt weathering I hear works well on MDF. Then I'd build it up and do shading/weathering once I know how all the pieces fit, again drybrushing and washes (maybe some Typhus corrosion). Really depends on the look you're going after. As I'm doing a mining colony (so it fits in with my Tau for 40k, but won't look too grimdark for Infinity), I'll be making it grimy. Cool colours for shading for a cleaner look would probably be really easy with an airbrush, I'm assuming.
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Jan 23, 2014 23:30
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LumberingTroll posted:I've looked and in my area finding large bark like that is impossible... http://tomschadleminiatures.blogspot.com/2013/07/underground-lasers-crates-finished.html Tom did a great job on the Underground Lasers stuff with his airbrush, and lists his recipes and whatnot.
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Jan 24, 2014 15:42
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