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Six easy to access bolts and drill a few holes to remove, press the new ones in and reassemble. It's a bit of a pain but not that time consuming.
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# ? Feb 3, 2014 19:17 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 23:47 |
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Maybe he's thinking about RTABs in an E30.
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# ? Feb 3, 2014 19:28 |
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What should I look out for on a 2006 330xi with 50k on the clock? Really want this car.
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# ? Feb 3, 2014 19:29 |
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dissss posted:This is not a question I ever thought I'd be asking, but as one has popped up for a decent price I thought it might be worth considering. I own a 118i LCI, so the facelifted version, otherwise same car. They're fairly solid cars. The new engines in the facelifted models are both more powerful and, at least on paper, get more mileage. In practice, not so much, though. There's been some issues with rough idle, and the COPs tend to go (there's a recall on those.) The rearwards visibility and the blind angles caused by the D pillar suck. I wish mine had parking sensors. The engine sits fairly far in under the cowl, making some work a bit of a hassle, but I've been able to DIY everything on mine so far. Let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll do what I can to answer them.
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# ? Feb 3, 2014 19:48 |
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revmoo posted:Six easy to access bolts and drill a few holes to remove, press the new ones in and reassemble. It's a bit of a pain but not that time consuming. It's worth asking if the maintenance has been done. And by who. If over torqued, the pockets rip out of the unibody. If the bushings are not taken care of, the increased forces can also tear the unibody. Also, oil pump nut.
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# ? Feb 3, 2014 20:16 |
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revmoo posted:Six easy to access bolts and drill a few holes to remove, press the new ones in and reassemble. It's a bit of a pain but not that time consuming. , rev. I will never e36 as good as you
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# ? Feb 3, 2014 22:22 |
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An hour of progressively longer cheater bars and jack combinations to break loose the carrier bolt that is stock torqued to some ungodly number...for an e46 anyway.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 02:55 |
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Whelp, had the first major breakdown in the 07 335I so far. High Pressure Fuel Pump went kaput. Luckily, it was covered under recall and now will have a 2 year warranty on the new one. I was also given a 2013 X1 to drive in the mean time. It is a comfortable ride but very much a "mom" car.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 04:41 |
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Dreadite posted:What should I look out for on a 2006 330xi with 50k on the clock? Even if it's on the second battery, it's probably shot. Water pump and spark plugs due at about 100k, if not before. Brakes may be due, or have been done. Definitely flush the fluids, BMW service doesn't do those as frequently these days. General stuff like checking accident history, rust damage, that kind of thing. 50k is low for that car, I've been putting 20k a year on E90 cars for about five years now. No real issues for me!
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 05:00 |
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Alarbus posted:Even if it's on the second battery, it's probably shot. Why would the battery be shot, especially if it's already been replaced once? Is it an E90 specific thing that they kill batteries inordinately quickly? My 2004 E46 with just shy of 80k miles is still on its factory battery as far as I'm aware (according to the maintenance records) and still cranks strongly. I certainly haven't replaced it in the 3 years / 30k miles I've owned it. Actually of all the cars I've owned I've only ever had to replace a battery once, despite all the cars I've owned being 6-16 years old when I owned them. I've had a couple of cars with their factory batteries still going strong despite being 10+ years old and near/over 100k on the clock.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 05:20 |
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My E34 hungers for batteries. When the morning cranking gets too long I deposit a sacrifice under the rear seat and draw a roundel on it with a grease pencil. This is the mark of the devourer.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 07:08 |
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Ha, incidentally the only car I've ever had to replace the battery on was my old E34.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 07:09 |
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Guinness posted:Why would the battery be shot, especially if it's already been replaced once? Is it an E90 specific thing that they kill batteries inordinately quickly? Mostly a time thing. My 2006 had the battery replaced a bit over five years, and the dealership was amazed it was still cranking. Most E90 batteries seem to last right about four years, less with short trips and cold weather. My 2009 battery lasted about 3.3 years. The problem is that the car boosts alternator output as the battery ages, so you have to reprogram the car to recognize a new battery, you can't just drop one in. Battery and programming runs about $400 at a dealer, less at an Indy.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 15:49 |
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Ahahah that's the dumbest loving thing ever, remind me to never buy a modern luxury car unless I'm gently caress off rich.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 15:59 |
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Alarbus posted:The problem is that the car boosts alternator output as the battery ages, so you have to reprogram the car to recognize a new battery, you can't just drop one in. Battery and programming runs about $400 at a dealer, less at an Indy. That's it, we've reached peak German overengineering.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 16:26 |
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I actually can't remember the last time I bought a battery.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 16:55 |
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rscott posted:Ahahah that's the dumbest loving thing ever, remind me to never buy a modern luxury car unless I'm gently caress off rich. Same thing on a 1-series. I've heard the car will also start to eliminate stuff when the battery is on the way out - leftover heat when the engine is stopped, stop-n-go, courtesy lights etc. People have tried swapping the battery without coding/resetting, to the same model battery even, and it still didn't really work. Supposedly this makes the battery last longer or something, but yeah, gently caress that crap.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 18:28 |
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Wow, as an engineer and tech geek I usually kind of twistedly appreciate German over-engineering but that's just some retarded poo poo.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 19:09 |
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I'm sure it doesn't help that the car comes alive at the slightest provocation. Merely opening the door when it's unlocked in the garage makes a whoosh (hvac vents opening?) and seems to energize a bunch of stuff including the audio system.
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# ? Feb 4, 2014 22:19 |
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That would be the fuel pump priming. Open the truck? Fuel pump primes. Unlock the doors? Fuel pump primes. Fart next to the car? Fuel pump primes. I plan on getting the stuff to DIY coding for my e82. I don't want to bother finding someone else to do it. It's not crazy expensive. I'd imagine in the coming years the price will continue to drop. You can do some neat stuff with it too - enabling certain euro only options, making the halos brighter, ect.
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# ? Feb 5, 2014 15:35 |
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Could you write a little bit about how you'd go about such a thing. "Coding" around here is treated like black magic but how hard can it be?
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# ? Feb 6, 2014 13:25 |
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Ground Control race coilovers with D/A Konis are on sale and my tax return is coming soon!
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# ? Feb 6, 2014 14:00 |
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User Error posted:Ground Control race coilovers with D/A Konis are on sale and my tax return is coming soon! Link!?
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# ? Feb 6, 2014 14:01 |
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http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=539/CA=247 D/A fronts anyways. I may see if I can get that kit with the hybrid camber plates.
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# ? Feb 6, 2014 14:13 |
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Does anyone have a wheel they prefer/recommend for an E30 325i? I've got the stock bottlecaps with winter tires mounted on them at the moment, but there doesn't appear to be a summer tire option in 195/65-14 these days. I'm not looking for anything flashy, just something to give me some tire options.
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# ? Feb 6, 2014 17:50 |
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You might be limited by being 4x100 but personally I think the E30 basketweaves look great on all BMWs of that era.
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# ? Feb 6, 2014 22:48 |
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Euroweaves (15") are a PITA to find. You can use iX wheels but the offset is all wrong so you need to run spacers. Kosei K1s are a great wheel (and I think you can get them in 15 and 16 for 4x100), but not the most durable if you drive on a lot of rough roads.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 03:53 |
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Hm, I'll look into the Kosei's. Roads here aren't terrible in the summer, and I plan to keep my bottlecaps mounted with winter tires to eat up potholes then.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 05:13 |
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How much better are the M3's than the equivalent year of top end 330 in full trim? I'm a 'car guy', current vehicle is a WRC homalgamation 98 Subaru, but never learned about a lot of Euro brands including BMW. I'm looking at getting something more reasonable for my daily driver (also something where you can buy parts for it) and miss pure RWD.
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Feb 7, 2014 |
# ? Feb 7, 2014 05:50 |
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Whats your definition of "better"? More horsepower, handling, cost of ownership? The M3 will have alot more power. Theres plenty of negatives if you plan to DD it. Not sure what you mean by buying parts for them. They're relatively new cars. But you will pay the M Tax with the M3 for parts.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 06:01 |
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There's no new M3/4 so the E90 version had 100 more horsepower than the 335. It was also a lot heavier. I wouldn't get an M3 if you want a reasonable daily driver.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 06:24 |
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Chinatown posted:Whats your definition of "better"? More horsepower, handling, cost of ownership? I could have been more specific. I guess I mean how different is the suspension handling? Do they use the same setup but with different spring rates and struts? Is the extra power achieved just with higher compression and a 330 block or is it a seperate motor (Thinking E46 series M3)? I'm not super concerned about the livability of the M-series, as my current car has no soundproofing, 15mpg, 4.444 final drive, full time AWD with an algorithmic center diff, quickened steering rack, etc. As for the parts thing, they only made 555 of my car and all the parts I've had to replace so far have been half fabricated from similar cars. It's part of the reason I want something more conventional. Sorry if this post is super dated, I started writing it here at work and then got called to a code blue and now I'm back 3 hours later.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 11:24 |
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bolind posted:Could you write a little bit about how you'd go about such a thing. "Coding" around here is treated like black magic but how hard can it be? You can use a BT cable (http://bavariantechnic.com/) to reset the battery settings on the e9x/e82. I bought a used one with 2 VINs left for $110. That cable is well worth the money if you work on your own car. You can go the DIY route and download the actual coding software and buy an OBD2 to USB cable but when I was looking at it it was still pretty complicated with half of the programs still in german.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 12:00 |
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moudis posted:Does anyone have a wheel they prefer/recommend for an E30 325i? I've got the stock bottlecaps with winter tires mounted on them at the moment, but there doesn't appear to be a summer tire option in 195/65-14 these days. I'm not looking for anything flashy, just something to give me some tire options. Finding E30 wheels is tough unless you want cheap knockoffs, basically. You're looking for 15x7 or 16x7 4x100 ET20 or so. Centerbore is 57.1mm
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 15:51 |
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VelociBacon posted:I could have been more specific. I guess I mean how different is the suspension handling? Do they use the same setup but with different spring rates and struts? Is the extra power achieved just with higher compression and a 330 block or is it a seperate motor (Thinking E46 series M3)? Tons of different parts, different engine, a real diff, etc. Biggest drawback will be finding a 6-speed MT version without a completely beat to poo poo interior. Look for 2004-2006 Manual Trans, no convertibles (you will see a ton of SMG convertibles, avoid them). Make sure some ricebwoi P.O. didn't add a bunch of stupid poo poo to it for RIMZ, MOAR BOOST or flashing LED's, or have torn apart the stereo or something equally as dumb. You will be spending the next 3 years fixing all the problems their mods caused. M tax = $800 for brake parts vs $300 for 330 brake parts, same for everything else. This place in Cincinnati, OH specializes in stocking MT M3's of every variety. Their prices are very high to the ones you will find on Craigslist but might be worth it if you want a lower mileage vehicle with cleaner, less farty interior. http://enthusiastauto.com/ Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Feb 7, 2014 |
# ? Feb 7, 2014 17:31 |
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Keyser S0ze posted:M tax = $800 for brake parts vs $300 for 330 brake parts, same for everything else. Based on his humblebrags, I'd gather Dr. VeliciBacon is fine with overspending for a hyper-custom middle-class-looking car. To be actually helpful, if you're researching the BMW option, the big note on BMWs is that there's very little worth modding. This is even more true with the M-series. You'll find nearly nowhere to squeeze out more HP, questionable suspension tweaks "for feel," and tremendously unnecessary brake upgrades "for track days."
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 18:24 |
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Keyser S0ze posted:Tons of different parts, different engine, a real diff, etc. Biggest drawback will be finding a 6-speed MT version without a completely beat to poo poo interior. Ugh, I'm not a fan of these guys because they intentionally buy or consign every single m coupe they can find and run the prices up.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 18:45 |
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BraveUlysses posted:Ugh, I'm not a fan of these guys because they intentionally buy or consign every single m coupe they can find and run the prices up. Same with E30 M3's and any other clean or nice example they can find. I mean sure that's how you run a business but it makes finding a nice car without going through them a pain in the rear end. One of the E30 M3's I was looking at buying and had a flight scheduled to go look at was scooped up by enthusiast then listed two days later for an addition 10k.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 18:58 |
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Yep, that's their model for sure. I recall a guy listing his 2011 328 wagon on Bimmerfest last year, (Sport, 6 speed stick) with low miles for $26k and him immediately going...."it's sold to Enthusiast they sent a truck to get it already" - where it pops up a week later for $36k. I'm sure they aren't getting ask price though.
Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Feb 7, 2014 |
# ? Feb 7, 2014 19:02 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 23:47 |
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I have a low mileage stock E36 M3; out of curiosity, I contact them about it every now and again. Given the range of E36 M3s on their site, it would probably go for about 17K. The offer is always well south of 10K. Seems like they need to make 10K in order for them to be interested.
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# ? Feb 7, 2014 19:11 |