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revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Six easy to access bolts and drill a few holes to remove, press the new ones in and reassemble. It's a bit of a pain but not that time consuming.

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Lightbulb Out
Apr 28, 2006

slack jawed yokel
Maybe he's thinking about RTABs in an E30.

Dreadite
Dec 31, 2004

College Slice
What should I look out for on a 2006 330xi with 50k on the clock?

Really want this car.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug

dissss posted:

This is not a question I ever thought I'd be asking, but as one has popped up for a decent price I thought it might be worth considering.

Anything in particular to look out for with the first gen 1 series?
The car in question is
- 2005 120i 5 door
- 6 speed manual (this is why the car is even being considered)
- 145,000km (90,000 miles)
- Fairly basic, cloth interior and no extras aside from an apparently upgrades (but still BMW) stereo system

I realise it isn't going to be the quickest thing out there, but that probably isn't such a bad thing

I own a 118i LCI, so the facelifted version, otherwise same car.

They're fairly solid cars. The new engines in the facelifted models are both more powerful and, at least on paper, get more mileage. In practice, not so much, though.

There's been some issues with rough idle, and the COPs tend to go (there's a recall on those.)

The rearwards visibility and the blind angles caused by the D pillar suck. I wish mine had parking sensors.

The engine sits fairly far in under the cowl, making some work a bit of a hassle, but I've been able to DIY everything on mine so far.

Let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll do what I can to answer them.

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5

revmoo posted:

Six easy to access bolts and drill a few holes to remove, press the new ones in and reassemble. It's a bit of a pain but not that time consuming.

It's worth asking if the maintenance has been done. And by who. If over torqued, the pockets rip out of the unibody. If the bushings are not taken care of, the increased forces can also tear the unibody.

Also, oil pump nut.

SuperDucky
May 13, 2007

by exmarx

revmoo posted:

Six easy to access bolts and drill a few holes to remove, press the new ones in and reassemble. It's a bit of a pain but not that time consuming.

:drat: , rev. I will never e36 as good as you

havelock
Jan 20, 2004

IGNORE ME
Soiled Meat
An hour of progressively longer cheater bars and jack combinations to break loose the carrier bolt that is stock torqued to some ungodly number...for an e46 anyway.

SuzieMcAwesome
Jul 27, 2011

A lady should be two things, Classy and fabulous. Unfortunately, you my dear are neither.
Whelp, had the first major breakdown in the 07 335I so far. High Pressure Fuel Pump went kaput. Luckily, it was covered under recall and now will have a 2 year warranty on the new one. I was also given a 2013 X1 to drive in the mean time. It is a comfortable ride but very much a "mom" car.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

Dreadite posted:

What should I look out for on a 2006 330xi with 50k on the clock?

Really want this car.

Even if it's on the second battery, it's probably shot. Water pump and spark plugs due at about 100k, if not before. Brakes may be due, or have been done. Definitely flush the fluids, BMW service doesn't do those as frequently these days.

General stuff like checking accident history, rust damage, that kind of thing. 50k is low for that car, I've been putting 20k a year on E90 cars for about five years now. No real issues for me!

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Alarbus posted:

Even if it's on the second battery, it's probably shot.

Why would the battery be shot, especially if it's already been replaced once? Is it an E90 specific thing that they kill batteries inordinately quickly?

My 2004 E46 with just shy of 80k miles is still on its factory battery as far as I'm aware (according to the maintenance records) and still cranks strongly. I certainly haven't replaced it in the 3 years / 30k miles I've owned it.

Actually of all the cars I've owned I've only ever had to replace a battery once, despite all the cars I've owned being 6-16 years old when I owned them. I've had a couple of cars with their factory batteries still going strong despite being 10+ years old and near/over 100k on the clock.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
My E34 hungers for batteries. When the morning cranking gets too long I deposit a sacrifice under the rear seat and draw a roundel on it with a grease pencil. This is the mark of the devourer.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Ha, incidentally the only car I've ever had to replace the battery on was my old E34.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

Guinness posted:

Why would the battery be shot, especially if it's already been replaced once? Is it an E90 specific thing that they kill batteries inordinately quickly?

My 2004 E46 with just shy of 80k miles is still on its factory battery as far as I'm aware (according to the maintenance records) and still cranks strongly. I certainly haven't replaced it in the 3 years / 30k miles I've owned it.

Actually of all the cars I've owned I've only ever had to replace a battery once, despite all the cars I've owned being 6-16 years old when I owned them. I've had a couple of cars with their factory batteries still going strong despite being 10+ years old and near/over 100k on the clock.

Mostly a time thing. My 2006 had the battery replaced a bit over five years, and the dealership was amazed it was still cranking. Most E90 batteries seem to last right about four years, less with short trips and cold weather. My 2009 battery lasted about 3.3 years.

The problem is that the car boosts alternator output as the battery ages, so you have to reprogram the car to recognize a new battery, you can't just drop one in. Battery and programming runs about $400 at a dealer, less at an Indy.

rscott
Dec 10, 2009
Ahahah that's the dumbest loving thing ever, remind me to never buy a modern luxury car unless I'm gently caress off rich.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Alarbus posted:

The problem is that the car boosts alternator output as the battery ages, so you have to reprogram the car to recognize a new battery, you can't just drop one in. Battery and programming runs about $400 at a dealer, less at an Indy.

That's it, we've reached peak German overengineering.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh
I actually can't remember the last time I bought a battery.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug

rscott posted:

Ahahah that's the dumbest loving thing ever, remind me to never buy a modern luxury car unless I'm gently caress off rich.

Same thing on a 1-series.

I've heard the car will also start to eliminate stuff when the battery is on the way out - leftover heat when the engine is stopped, stop-n-go, courtesy lights etc. People have tried swapping the battery without coding/resetting, to the same model battery even, and it still didn't really work.

Supposedly this makes the battery last longer or something, but yeah, gently caress that crap.

Guinness
Sep 15, 2004

Wow, as an engineer and tech geek I usually kind of twistedly appreciate German over-engineering but that's just some retarded poo poo.

sanchez
Feb 26, 2003
I'm sure it doesn't help that the car comes alive at the slightest provocation. Merely opening the door when it's unlocked in the garage makes a whoosh (hvac vents opening?) and seems to energize a bunch of stuff including the audio system.

Party Alarm
May 10, 2012
That would be the fuel pump priming.

Open the truck? Fuel pump primes. Unlock the doors? Fuel pump primes. Fart next to the car? Fuel pump primes.


I plan on getting the stuff to DIY coding for my e82. I don't want to bother finding someone else to do it. It's not crazy expensive. I'd imagine in the coming years the price will continue to drop. You can do some neat stuff with it too - enabling certain euro only options, making the halos brighter, ect.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug
Could you write a little bit about how you'd go about such a thing. "Coding" around here is treated like black magic but how hard can it be?

User Error
Aug 31, 2006
Ground Control race coilovers with D/A Konis are on sale and my tax return is coming soon! :homebrew:

voltron
Nov 26, 2000
Zapf gave me this account because he's a friend of the Indian-American people.

User Error posted:

Ground Control race coilovers with D/A Konis are on sale and my tax return is coming soon! :homebrew:

Link!?

User Error
Aug 31, 2006
http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=539/CA=247

D/A fronts anyways. I may see if I can get that kit with the hybrid camber plates.

moudis
Feb 2, 2014

Does anyone have a wheel they prefer/recommend for an E30 325i? I've got the stock bottlecaps with winter tires mounted on them at the moment, but there doesn't appear to be a summer tire option in 195/65-14 these days. I'm not looking for anything flashy, just something to give me some tire options.

rscott
Dec 10, 2009
You might be limited by being 4x100 but personally I think the E30 basketweaves look great on all BMWs of that era.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh
Euroweaves (15") are a PITA to find. You can use iX wheels but the offset is all wrong so you need to run spacers.

Kosei K1s are a great wheel (and I think you can get them in 15 and 16 for 4x100), but not the most durable if you drive on a lot of rough roads.

moudis
Feb 2, 2014

Hm, I'll look into the Kosei's. Roads here aren't terrible in the summer, and I plan to keep my bottlecaps mounted with winter tires to eat up potholes then.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

How much better are the M3's than the equivalent year of top end 330 in full trim? I'm a 'car guy', current vehicle is a WRC homalgamation 98 Subaru, but never learned about a lot of Euro brands including BMW. I'm looking at getting something more reasonable for my daily driver (also something where you can buy parts for it) and miss pure RWD.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:53 on Feb 7, 2014

Chinatown
Sep 11, 2001

by Fluffdaddy
Fun Shoe
Whats your definition of "better"? More horsepower, handling, cost of ownership?

The M3 will have alot more power. Theres plenty of negatives if you plan to DD it.

Not sure what you mean by buying parts for them. They're relatively new cars. But you will pay the M Tax with the M3 for parts.

Cojawfee
May 31, 2006
I think the US is dumb for not using Celsius
There's no new M3/4 so the E90 version had 100 more horsepower than the 335. It was also a lot heavier. I wouldn't get an M3 if you want a reasonable daily driver.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Chinatown posted:

Whats your definition of "better"? More horsepower, handling, cost of ownership?

The M3 will have alot more power. Theres plenty of negatives if you plan to DD it.

Not sure what you mean by buying parts for them. They are far from antiques. But you will pay the M Tax with the M3.

I could have been more specific. I guess I mean how different is the suspension handling? Do they use the same setup but with different spring rates and struts? Is the extra power achieved just with higher compression and a 330 block or is it a seperate motor (Thinking E46 series M3)?

I'm not super concerned about the livability of the M-series, as my current car has no soundproofing, 15mpg, 4.444 final drive, full time AWD with an algorithmic center diff, quickened steering rack, etc. As for the parts thing, they only made 555 of my car and all the parts I've had to replace so far have been half fabricated from similar cars. It's part of the reason I want something more conventional.

Sorry if this post is super dated, I started writing it here at work and then got called to a code blue and now I'm back 3 hours later.

doogle
May 24, 2003

bolind posted:

Could you write a little bit about how you'd go about such a thing. "Coding" around here is treated like black magic but how hard can it be?

You can use a BT cable (http://bavariantechnic.com/) to reset the battery settings on the e9x/e82. I bought a used one with 2 VINs left for $110. That cable is well worth the money if you work on your own car. You can go the DIY route and download the actual coding software and buy an OBD2 to USB cable but when I was looking at it it was still pretty complicated with half of the programs still in german.

Lightbulb Out
Apr 28, 2006

slack jawed yokel

moudis posted:

Does anyone have a wheel they prefer/recommend for an E30 325i? I've got the stock bottlecaps with winter tires mounted on them at the moment, but there doesn't appear to be a summer tire option in 195/65-14 these days. I'm not looking for anything flashy, just something to give me some tire options.

Finding E30 wheels is tough unless you want cheap knockoffs, basically. You're looking for 15x7 or 16x7 4x100 ET20 or so. Centerbore is 57.1mm

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug

VelociBacon posted:

I could have been more specific. I guess I mean how different is the suspension handling? Do they use the same setup but with different spring rates and struts? Is the extra power achieved just with higher compression and a 330 block or is it a seperate motor (Thinking E46 series M3)?

I'm not super concerned about the livability of the M-series, as my current car has no soundproofing, 15mpg, 4.444 final drive, full time AWD with an algorithmic center diff, quickened steering rack, etc. As for the parts thing, they only made 555 of my car and all the parts I've had to replace so far have been half fabricated from similar cars. It's part of the reason I want something more conventional.

Sorry if this post is super dated, I started writing it here at work and then got called to a code blue and now I'm back 3 hours later.

Tons of different parts, different engine, a real diff, etc. Biggest drawback will be finding a 6-speed MT version without a completely beat to poo poo interior.

Look for 2004-2006 Manual Trans, no convertibles (you will see a ton of SMG convertibles, avoid them).
Make sure some ricebwoi P.O. didn't add a bunch of stupid poo poo to it for RIMZ, MOAR BOOST or flashing LED's, or have torn apart the stereo or something equally as dumb. You will be spending the next 3 years fixing all the problems their mods caused.

M tax = $800 for brake parts vs $300 for 330 brake parts, same for everything else.

This place in Cincinnati, OH specializes in stocking MT M3's of every variety. Their prices are very high to the ones you will find on Craigslist but might be worth it if you want a lower mileage vehicle with cleaner, less farty interior.

http://enthusiastauto.com/

Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Feb 7, 2014

Cobalt60
Jun 1, 2006

Keyser S0ze posted:

M tax = $800 for brake parts vs $300 for 330 brake parts, same for everything else.


Based on his humblebrags, I'd gather Dr. VeliciBacon is fine with overspending for a hyper-custom middle-class-looking car.



To be actually helpful, if you're researching the BMW option, the big note on BMWs is that there's very little worth modding. This is even more true with the M-series. You'll find nearly nowhere to squeeze out more HP, questionable suspension tweaks "for feel," and tremendously unnecessary brake upgrades "for track days."

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Keyser S0ze posted:

Tons of different parts, different engine, a real diff, etc. Biggest drawback will be finding a 6-speed MT version without a completely beat to poo poo interior.

Look for 2004-2006 Manual Trans, no convertibles (you will see a ton of SMG convertibles, avoid them).
Make sure some ricebwoi P.O. didn't add a bunch of stupid poo poo to it for RIMZ, MOAR BOOST or flashing LED's, or have torn apart the stereo or something equally as dumb. You will be spending the next 3 years fixing all the problems their mods caused.

M tax = $800 for brake parts vs $300 for 330 brake parts, same for everything else.

This place in Cincinnati, OH specializes in stocking MT M3's of every variety. Their prices are very high to the ones you will find on Craigslist but might be worth it if you want a lower mileage vehicle with cleaner, less farty interior.

http://enthusiastauto.com/

Ugh, I'm not a fan of these guys because they intentionally buy or consign every single m coupe they can find and run the prices up.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


BraveUlysses posted:

Ugh, I'm not a fan of these guys because they intentionally buy or consign every single m coupe they can find and run the prices up.

Same with E30 M3's and any other clean or nice example they can find. I mean sure that's how you run a business but it makes finding a nice car without going through them a pain in the rear end. One of the E30 M3's I was looking at buying and had a flight scheduled to go look at was scooped up by enthusiast then listed two days later for an addition 10k.

Keyser_Soze
May 5, 2009

Pillbug
Yep, that's their model for sure. I recall a guy listing his 2011 328 wagon on Bimmerfest last year, (Sport, 6 speed stick) with low miles for $26k and him immediately going...."it's sold to Enthusiast they sent a truck to get it already" - where it pops up a week later for $36k. I'm sure they aren't getting ask price though.

Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Feb 7, 2014

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voltron
Nov 26, 2000
Zapf gave me this account because he's a friend of the Indian-American people.
I have a low mileage stock E36 M3; out of curiosity, I contact them about it every now and again. Given the range of E36 M3s on their site, it would probably go for about 17K. The offer is always well south of 10K. Seems like they need to make 10K in order for them to be interested.

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