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unlawfulsoup posted:How hard is it to change the intonation on a CV50 Tele? I have been watching a few really lovely videos and a bunch of a vague internet posts, and it seems like a pain in the rear end. Right now my strings are really sitting high and it is starting to get on my nerves. I'm confused. Do you want to change the height of the strings, the intonation, or both? The intonation you adjust with the screws at the rear of the bridge, moving the saddle forward or backwards until the desired pitch is reached. The string height you adjust with the two screws on each saddle. The CV Tele's have a three saddle bridge instead of individual saddles for each string, right? Here's some images I made to help illustrate what I'm talking about : Intonation:  String Height:  Unfortunately with three saddle bridges you're never going to get perfect intonation since there is only one saddle for two strings.
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Feb 11, 2014 04:53
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Side Effects posted:I'm confused. Do you want to change the height of the strings, the intonation, or both? The intonation you adjust with the screws at the rear of the bridge, moving the saddle forward or backwards until the desired pitch is reached. The string height you adjust with the two screws on each saddle. Sorry if I was not clear. I meant height of the strings, I have a bad headache and it screwed up my train of thought. The intonation seems okay.
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Feb 11, 2014 04:57
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If you change the height it won't. You'll need to intonate after adjusting the height.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:00
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Day Man posted:If you change the height it won't. You'll need to intonate after adjusting the height. Yeah, I know that, I only mean it is fine now. One big headache.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:16
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Also be aware that string action is a combination of not only saddle height but neck relief too. There are plenty of good videos and websites dedicated to teaching you how to setup guitars. But basicly you have to set the neck relief first, then set the saddle height, then adjust the intonation. It's not all that hard but if you're unsure about torquing on the neck, bring it to someone.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:18
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Also, if you can, spring for a copy of Dan Earlwine's book(s) on guitar maintenance and repair, utterly invaluable.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:21
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JHVH-1 posted:Its funny how stuff like that or the EBow stick around forever and not really evolve.
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Feb 11, 2014 05:26
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Last night I cracked open my Vibratone (~'68 - owned for a year but not used) to figure out why it didn't like to shift from low to high speed (or back) reliably. I was expecting a cleaning / lubricating task. Instead I found a lovely chunk of aluminum bracing the front of the motors and mounted to the case via a piece of wood and screws (hey, that crazy hum from the cabinet makes all kinds of sense now!). Took out tremolo unit and cleaned / oiled the bearings, cleaned / oiled the motor shafts and low-speed motor armature, then re-assembled... to have the same problem. Then I realized that whoever had bodged this thing back together after dropping it and screwing up the motor frame had failed to account for the forwards movement of the low-speed motor's armature when it is disengaged and the high-speed motor takes over... loving idiots. The marks on the aluminum sheet indicate that it had been like that for a long time before I owned it. Fifteen minutes and a step-bit later and suddenly the armature can move properly and both speeds work! Now I just need to isolate the motor support with some kind of rubber stand-offs or grommets. I hate it when people do half-assed repairs to nice gear. What an amazing sound. Played through it for like two hours afterwards. So happy.
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Feb 11, 2014 07:28
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Agreed posted:They only make three out of the dozen or more that used to be made, too, which is a real shame. I think just the "Ace" series is still made, correct me if I'm wrong. Yeah I think the Guitar Ace is basically the Soloist model. The X100 is the one everyone associates with the Rockman/Boston sound.
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Feb 11, 2014 08:37
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unlawfulsoup posted:How hard is it to change the intonation on a CV50 Tele? I have been watching a few really lovely videos and a bunch of a vague internet posts, and it seems like a pain in the rear end. Right now my strings are really sitting high and it is starting to get on my nerves. If you are unfortunate enough to have the "vintage" three saddle bridge, it's pretty tough to get the intonation right. If you have the 6 saddle bridge, it's pretty easy. (new bridge will set you back max $40 for a decent one) First of all adjust the saddle heights to something comfortable for you (if you say that the strings are too high). Then start adjusting the intonation. Easiest way is with an electronic tuner. Tune the string to perfect pitch, and check what's the pitch on the 12th fret, if it's lower or higher than perfect, you need to adjust the saddle (play with it a bit, i always forget the right directions but it's not too hard). Remember to retune the open string each time you move the saddle, and move it in small increments. If you are stuck with the 3 saddle bridge, you can get approximate intonation only
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Feb 11, 2014 13:40
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iostream.h posted:Also, if you can, spring for a copy of Dan Earlwine's book(s) on guitar maintenance and repair, utterly invaluable.  .
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Feb 11, 2014 14:46
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The three saddle bridge has better mass and tone, though, and you can get replacement barrels to fix the intonation issues. http://www.guitarfetish.com/Wilkinson-Compensated-Tele-Bridge-Brass-Saddles_p_873.html Pick this up, swap the barrels and screws out, toss the bridge itself. Ten times better. Note: save the original barrels and screws.
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Feb 11, 2014 15:22
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iostream.h posted:Here y'go man. Again, thank you for this. I recently got a Blackstar ID30, which I'm loving.
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Feb 11, 2014 15:28
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Traded my free organ project for a free-to-me guitar. Its only a bullet series with the unfinished neck. Throw a couple bucks at GFS for some nicer parts and give it to my brother to play with.  EDIT: Snagged a bridge and middle "Duncan Designed" SC101 for $20 shipped. The project begins. EDIT2: Any of you guys have any Strat parts lying around? I might be able to help clear some crap out 
Sockington fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Feb 12, 2014 |
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Feb 11, 2014 16:11
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more questions 1. I want to replace the stock bridge on my VM Jazzmaster. Should I just go straight to splurging on a Mastery bridge, or is there another less expensive solution that's worth it as a stopgap. If the Mastery is absolutely the best, I'll just save a bit more and get it, but I am curious about other options. 2. I want a big, fat piece of wood with humbuckers (read Les Paul) to tune down to C (or way lower, potentially) and make sludge with. What are some good options, if my budget is around $500? I know about Agile, Xavier, LTD, and Epiphone, but I don't know much about how they all compare to one another. Ideally I think I'd just grab a used Studio for around that price, since I don't care about it looking pretty, but id love to know more options. 3. As I mentioned in my last post, I'm a classical guitar nerd. Always have been. I've been getting more into metal, though, and id love to learn more about how to play it, specifically picking exercises and scale shapes for soloing and riffing. I love technique practice and burying myself in new stuff, I just don't quite know how to start here. Any suggestions? Even though I am a professional guitarist, I don't mind starting from scratch in a method if it will help me develop better technique/skills/ears.
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Feb 12, 2014 21:52
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firebad57 posted:more questions What problem are you trying to solve with the stock bridge? You could try a Warmoth modified mustang bridge, heavier strings, shimming the neck, a buzz stop. There are a lot of options, depending on what you're doing. With Jazzmasters (and jaguars!) I just put .12s on, make sure the neck is shimmed (they were shimmed at the factory, so this isn't exactly sacrilege), and things have been fine for me. Then again, I'm a pretty light picker. As for sludge, tune to drop A#, since that's what Kowloon Walled City tunes to, and they rule. 
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Feb 12, 2014 22:21
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Sludgey doomy stuff is really about the amp more than the guitar (just like most things) so try some stuff you like the look of, and kind of make a checklist of what you like or don't like. Agile's not a bad choice so long as you're in the USA, and the pickups are fairly decent. They tend on the heavier end of the spectrum as far as weight goes, though. LTD's Les Paul-like is thinner than a usual Les Paul (exception: the full thickness models) and come with seymour duncans above a given price point. The necks are a bit thinner also, and have more of a D shape than a C, like you'd find on Epiphones.
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Feb 12, 2014 22:51
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You can easily find a LP Studio Mahogany for that price, also look at the PRS Baritone, retails for around $699 so you should be able to snag one within your budget.
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Feb 12, 2014 23:06
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jwh posted:What problem are you trying to solve with the stock bridge? You could try a Warmoth modified mustang bridge, heavier strings, shimming the neck, a buzz stop. There are a lot of options, depending on what you're doing. Thanks for the advice, guys. The two main problems I am finding with the stock bridge are tuning stability, which doesn't seem great with bending, and buzzing, which I've had trouble alleviating. Granted, I'm VERY new at this electric guitar stuff, and I got a much-more-experienced friend to help me with initial setup stuff. I'll see if I can fix the buzzing, but I was attracted by the Mastery bridge's claims of increased sustain... Currently I am playing 10-52s, which I like, I have no idea what a buzz stop is, and I don't think the neck is shimmed. I'll investigate these options!
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Feb 12, 2014 23:08
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Since I've been learning to play the ukulele, I've come across a weird difference between guitar movables and uke movables that I may be able to use to my advantage when playing guitar. For those that aren't aware, if you capo a guitar at the fifth fret and play on the top four strings, the tuning is the same, except the fourth string is tuned an octave higher. On the ukulele, the following is a G chord:  You make it movable by fretting the fourth fret on the fourth string. Now, the way I learned (and you probably learned) the movable D shape on guitar is like this:  But what's wrong with me playing it like on the ukulele? Makes me hate myself less, and sounds, to my ears, just fine, since it contains the same notes as the standard way. Can some theory nerd tell me why this isn't always a good substitution, because I'm sure it'll bite me in the rear end if I play it this way, but my theory is pretty sparse. EDIT: as an aside, I just sold a bunch of stuff on Amazon so I can afford a Classic Vibe Telecaster  .
Ghost of Reagan Past fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Feb 13, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2014 01:23
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It looks ok but you see that R there, thats the root note which would be the name of the chord. So for that D chord the root is the same as the guitar so you get the same chord if you are tuned to DGBE. I'm not hugely knowledgeable on theory or memorizing everything, but there may be chords where the root note you expect from guitar playing is not in the same uke shape if you are just playing those 4 strings. 
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Feb 13, 2014 02:04
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Nice way to start the night Squier. Blocked the trem and now to ream out the other five holes from 8 to 10mm and drill for the dowel pin. 
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Feb 13, 2014 02:07
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From what I was reading last time that happened to me, that can also be caused by rough edges at the saddle. There was one forum that suggested putting a piece of thread through and seeing if it gets snagged, and then doing some sandpapering with some really fine grain paper if needed.
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Feb 13, 2014 02:18
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JHVH-1 posted:From what I was reading last time that happened to me, that can also be caused by rough edges at the saddle. There was one forum that suggested putting a piece of thread through and seeing if it gets snagged, and then doing some sandpapering with some really fine grain paper if needed. Yeah and then go over it with a pencil once or twice to get a fine layer of graphite on it. Not the end of the world.
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Feb 13, 2014 02:34
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Tour of the Godin factory. Robert Godin is a pretty cool guy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ker5s2tAKU
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Feb 13, 2014 05:26
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Spanish Manlove posted:Yeah and then go over it with a pencil once or twice to get a fine layer of graphite on it. Not the end of the world. Yup. Been doing that religiously with every string change on my MIM Strat since forever. One of the internal slides was mushed up a bit and not grabbing the low-e string very well. Cut a section of 5/32 Allen key up and worked perfect with a few trips back and forth to the grinding wheel. Job done though. I had an extra roller tree since my Strat only ever came with one and just never bothered adding a second one when I got the GFS rollers.   Some electronics arrive next week and then off for a proper setup before he gets a freebie. Sockington fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Feb 13, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2014 06:19
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Are Agile guitars or other Rondo guitars still fairly well regarded value guitars? I've decided to get back into playing and an Agile price point would be pretty compelling.
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Feb 13, 2014 09:39
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Yeah the Agile line is really good. The other stuff like SX and Douglas are just cheap brands Rondo distributes.
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Feb 13, 2014 10:32
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MausForce's guide to playing the guitar quietly A lot of people live in a setting that does not allow them the opportunity to hit full tone on their tubes with overdrive on their 50 watt tube amp. They might live in a dorm room, apartment, or condo in which they share a wall with a neighbor. Or maybe, it is just late at night and you do not want to give the neighbors nightmares with the death and your stack. For these people I have a setup that will keep you shredding at any hour, and playing in any setting. One word of caution for those of you who play acoustics, is that they are actually too loud for this type of situation, especially late at night. Equipment Low to Mid level electric guitar - For a modeling amplifier through headphones, the sound quality of the amplifier is not high enough such that a high end guitar can be differentiated easily from a mid level one. Feel free to play a high end guitar, it will sound better. However, a mid level guitar will sound solid with this setup. Electric guitars are very quiet without a speaker, so your neighbors will not be able to hear you playing, even with very thin walls. Digital Modeling Amplifier - The line signal generated by a modeling amplifier produces a very pleasing level of sound quality for listening through headphones. As well you will have a lot of different settings to play with. The headphone quality off of a normal solid state preamp does not have the full amplifier feel. A modeling amplifier sounds just as good through headphones as it does through its speaker. I personally play through a Yamaha THR10 tan model modeling amplifier. Headphones - You will ideally need over the ear headphones at a price of at least $20US. The longer the cable the better, or you may need to sit very close to the amplifier. MausForce fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Feb 13, 2014 |
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Feb 13, 2014 15:05
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I prefer to stare at a spot on the wall in front of me until I no longer focus and visualize the guitar playing itself. There's no need to physically perform a note because the note has already been struck before it bubbles into consciousness. Such is the mushin-do.
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Feb 13, 2014 15:59
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MausForce posted:MausForce's guide to playing the guitar quietly
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Feb 13, 2014 17:16
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MausForce posted:MausForce's guide to playing the guitar quietly Basically, plug in headphones.
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Feb 13, 2014 17:34
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comes along bort posted:I prefer to stare at a spot on the wall in front of me until I no longer focus and visualize the guitar playing itself. There's no need to physically perform a note because the note has already been struck before it bubbles into consciousness. Such is the mushin-do. This is how I write my licks nowadays.
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Feb 13, 2014 17:50
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I strum each note independently and loudly (but not too loudly) imitate in my own voice. Headphones, how quaint.
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Feb 13, 2014 23:03
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JHVH-1 posted:It looks ok but you see that R there, thats the root note which would be the name of the chord. So for that D chord the root is the same as the guitar so you get the same chord if you are tuned to DGBE. I'm not hugely knowledgeable on theory or memorizing everything, but there may be chords where the root note you expect from guitar playing is not in the same uke shape if you are just playing those 4 strings. Turns out on some looking it's a slash chord, where the slashed part is the major third of the chord (so F is F/A).
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Feb 13, 2014 23:48
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What kind of routing/drilling would I have to do to get this installed on a wraparound style guitar?
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Feb 14, 2014 00:50
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It depends on the wrap-around. If it has the larger stud size drilled out, you might not be able to find a drop-in tunomatic replacement, and either need conversion bushings or fill the holes with dowels and redrill. The tailpiece obviously looks like it'd just screw on no problem. What's the guitar?
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Feb 14, 2014 00:54
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muike posted:It depends on the wrap-around. If it has the larger stud size drilled out, you might not be able to find a drop-in tunomatic replacement, and either need conversion bushings or fill the holes with dowels and redrill. The tailpiece obviously looks like it'd just screw on no problem. What's the guitar? It would be an Epiphone LP Jr.
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Feb 14, 2014 04:41
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Declan MacManus posted:It would be an Epiphone LP Jr. Definitely has the larger tailpiece size studs, then. I don't know if anyone makes conversion bushings, but if they don't, you'll need to glue some dowels in the hole and re-drill. Very carefully, so it's in the exact right place. Could be a fun project, but really sounds like a waste of time if you're trying to make a guitar you intend to actually use right away instead of just dick around with for fun.
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Feb 14, 2014 04:50
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muike posted:Definitely has the larger tailpiece size studs, then. I don't know if anyone makes conversion bushings, but if they don't, you'll need to glue some dowels in the hole and re-drill. Very carefully, so it's in the exact right place. Could be a fun project, but really sounds like a waste of time if you're trying to make a guitar you intend to actually use right away instead of just dick around with for fun. It is most certainly for dicking around. If I was serious, I'd probably mount a Bigsby or one of those GFS NotBigsbys but really I just want to do dumb whammy stuff on a cheap guitar. It will also look neat/dumb. Couldn't I theoretically just run the strings over the saddles on the wraparound instead of replacing the bridge?
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Feb 14, 2014 05:55
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