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Beach Bum posted:One of the hoses under the intake manifold is leaking. Beach Bum posted:Thanks. My buddy has a 1.8 block on a stand in his garage that he's been building for the past year, and I got a good look at it. I don't know which one is leaking, but I'm losing about half the reservoir each day. I just ordered all the pain-in-the-rear end hoses and a set of remote spring clamp pliers to minimize blood loss. It turned out to be the one from the back of the motor to the oil filter housing. I was able to get to it under the car with the passenger wheel and splash panel panel removed. Yeah, I'd say there was a problem here   That loving hose took me two hours  Those spring clamp pliers I bought were a godsend, but smooshing the hose over the barbs with the clamp on was a bitch. I finally just greased the inside of the hoses and they slipped right on, whaddaya know  I'll know better next time. Now I've just got to do the other one under there. Some rear end in a top hat didn't bother to reuse the spring clamp and put a regular hose clamp on it... ON THE OIL FILTER HOUSING SIDE  
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Feb 15, 2014 |
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Feb 15, 2014 01:33
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televiper posted:argh drat dude, did you even own that for a month? That really sucks.
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Feb 15, 2014 03:18
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televiper posted:argh Noooooo...  At least it was through no fault of your own
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Feb 15, 2014 05:05
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Wrecked Miatas are sad. This will cheer us all up http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ip_iK4mfSF4
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Feb 15, 2014 08:14
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So as 6UL's will be unavailable until the end of summer, I'm looking at other options, specifically: Konig "Dial In" - 15x9, 13 lbs, $149, available in April. No real pictures of gold yet, so here's grey:  Gold:  Advanti Storm S1 - 15x9, 13 lbs, $189 regular $169 on sale, available in April. Again no gold pictures, have grey:  I'm leaning towards the Konigs, lower price + better looks, though we'll see how gold shakes out.
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Feb 19, 2014 15:31
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I'd get something with concave spokes. Easier to toss around and harder to curb since most of the hi performance summer tires we look at have 'rim saver' lips on them. On looks alone, I also like the Advanti.
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Feb 19, 2014 21:16
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I really hope its not rusting to pieces in there
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Feb 19, 2014 21:33
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opengl128 posted:I really hope its not rusting to pieces in there I spent a good hour digging mine out last night. So pumped to drive it tonight.
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Feb 19, 2014 21:39
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Does anyone have any experiance with the Good-Win-Racing Roadstersport 3? I ordered it, its midpipe and a test pipe for my 1996 NA and im wondering if i'll hate the noise. It does have a selection of baffles but i'd like to avoid using them if possible. The maker claims its quieter than the borla at least, and i hope isnt as raspy as something like a corksport drift.
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Feb 20, 2014 01:23
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God drat it. There's so much ice caked to the ground I couldn't get the car out. Gonna have to get a chisel and chop some paths for the wheels tomorrow.
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Feb 20, 2014 01:25
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Rhyno posted:God drat it. There's so much ice caked to the ground I couldn't get the car out. Gonna have to get a chisel and chop some paths for the wheels tomorrow. Hot water and/or sand.
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Feb 20, 2014 01:54
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If my 1996 miata was offered with sequential fuel injection from the factory (as i am led to believe 96-97 cars were), why do i see a batch fire option in DIY megasquirt 3s, and need to pay extra for the sequential add-on?
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Feb 22, 2014 03:10
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How many coils do you have?
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Feb 22, 2014 03:23
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Spent a couple of hours today cleaning the 10AE. I love this car.     As soon as I put it under the carport some birds started fighting around it. Awesome. 
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Feb 22, 2014 07:45
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Those birds are going to have sexual relations on your miata. I am thinking of having macco turn my smurf back blue. Nothing fixes a bad paint job like another bad paint job right? Elephanthead fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Feb 22, 2014 |
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Feb 22, 2014 14:42
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I've been looking at Miatas in my area(Charleston, SC). Anyone know a good Mazda/Miata mechanic in the area? I'm looking to get a pre-purchase inspection done to make sure everything is ship-shape. The most attractive option I've found so far is an 06 Grand Touring for ~12k at a dealer. Craigslist has one with a salvage title for 6500, but I'd definitely need it inspected before I thought about buying it.
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Feb 24, 2014 07:15
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Trying to find a Miata in Northwest Ohio at the tail end of our coldest winter in awhile is a special kind of torture I would not wish on anybody I know. All kinds of rusted, chopped, and cheap stanced out Miata's populate this state. Please tell me the supply of cars will increase as the weather gets warmer before I go crazy. Why did my wife have to wait so long to give the ok?
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Feb 24, 2014 23:23
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Harmburger posted:I've been looking at Miatas in my area(Charleston, SC). Anyone know a good Mazda/Miata mechanic in the area? I'm looking to get a pre-purchase inspection done to make sure everything is ship-shape. The most attractive option I've found so far is an 06 Grand Touring for ~12k at a dealer. Craigslist has one with a salvage title for 6500, but I'd definitely need it inspected before I thought about buying it. Ive met the guys from http://treasurecoastmiata.com/ a few times. They seem like good guys. I dont know how much they do on NCs though. Also phone, I feel bad for your rear end if you end up running against Marty Bull much. That motherfucker is fast.
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Feb 25, 2014 00:17
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PTE dude?
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Feb 25, 2014 00:29
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TrinityOfDeath posted:Trying to find a Miata in Northwest Ohio at the tail end of our coldest winter in awhile is a special kind of torture I would not wish on anybody I know. All kinds of rusted, chopped, and cheap stanced out Miata's populate this state. Please tell me the supply of cars will increase as the weather gets warmer before I go crazy. Fly to FL and pick one up or you're gonna have to pay inflated prices during the summer.
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Feb 25, 2014 00:50
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Phone posted:PTE dude? PTE? Nah, he runs a bone stock MSM. He was keeping up with STR guys. I thought you ran NCR region and I think that's his home.
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Feb 25, 2014 01:09
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I've run some NCR events, if he's going to one of their 6 or 7 events at Cherry Point I might meet up with him. I run in CSP on street tires, so I have as much power and not lovely gearing (plus 9" of wheel  ).Are you going to do any events at VIR or CMP with THSCC this year?
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Feb 25, 2014 01:15
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Probably going to try to. Just depends on timing and cash. Going to need brakes and tires.
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Feb 25, 2014 01:18
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Come to Norf course on April 5th. It'll be the shake down of my new PTE car, come see how I break in new and exciting ways.
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Feb 25, 2014 06:09
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TrinityOfDeath posted:Trying to find a Miata in Northwest Ohio at the tail end of our coldest winter in awhile is a special kind of torture I would not wish on anybody I know. All kinds of rusted, chopped, and cheap stanced out Miata's populate this state. Please tell me the supply of cars will increase as the weather gets warmer before I go crazy. I am in the same hell but in Canada and I'm just looking for anything. Every car that has the right kms is pictured in an alley just outside a sketchy bodywork shop in Toronto.
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Feb 25, 2014 07:36
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8ender posted:I am in the same hell but in Canada and I'm just looking for anything. Every car that has the right kms is pictured in an alley just outside a sketchy bodywork shop in Toronto. You just have to wait for the right car. I got mine in early July, from an old retired dude just outside of Toronto. '99, ~120k Km's, hardtop, LSD, no side sill rust, no accidents, $7.5K. I bought it within 24 hours of the add going up, and when I did the guy turned around and called the guy driving down from Ottawa to look at it the next day, the one driving in from Montreal, and the one driving in from Thunder Bay. Be prepaired to travel for the "right" car.
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Feb 25, 2014 14:36
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I'm probably going to have to travel pretty far from AB. Every car here is either a 90 or 91 garage queen, or completely destroyed. My favourite so far is the riced out car that was pictured in front of a frame straightening place. It makes sense, though. I looked up the production numbers for the Miata for Canada vs. the US, knowing that Mazda Canada has previously been unenthusiastic about existing. I also made some charts. I was mostly out to figure out a few points that I don't understand about the local market:
 Both countries have fewer 1.8 models (since it was only made for the less popular later years of the NA) but the US has a 2:1 ratio and Canada has a 3:1 ratio. That's on top of the US having ten times as many cars as we do. The US sold more cars in any given year than Canada did in the entire lifetime of the NA. I'm willing to bet all the Canadian models went to BC or Ontario but I can't confirm that without access to registration information. With the numbers alone it's no wonder Miatas are prized and worthy of restoration up here and $800 ricer dumpsters in the southern US. Oddly in my local market it seems like NBs are probably more affordable than NAs based on running the depreciation math in reverse. You can pick up a clean NB for $7-8k but you're into $6k before you can get a 94. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Feb 25, 2014 |
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Feb 25, 2014 15:28
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You should add colours to the graphs for extra fun. Red 91 is the most common miata in Canada by far. Another curiosity is 97 speedster as the most common model for the year. In your neck of the woods there is a pretty clean white 91 in BC right now at 3k.
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Feb 25, 2014 17:07
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Unfortunately I couldn't find any production information on what colours were most popular in Canada; additionally post-99 numbers are for North America in aggregate. Red is undoubtedly the most popular everywhere.
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Feb 25, 2014 17:14
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Ask the guy at Wild Rose Miata Club. He has probably the most information on canadian specs.
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Feb 25, 2014 17:25
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If you goons want a good but ugly short nose crank (the bad crank) NA with 122K miles and Chinese shocks (newish) after tabulating what I plan on spending on this car this spring I would be better off (Money wise) buying a NC. Location Indianapolis I would sell for $3,000. (Goon price) Not sure that is a good price but I would buy it for that price. It is surprisingly rust free but has a terrible paint job, and the seats are serviceable but not showroom. Tires are new and cheap, as are the brakes and clutch. Clutch was installed by Aim tuning last summer who seem to be competent, but I think the clutch master may be going, the clutch will slip after a long highway drive, but just at the first stoplight, then it works perfectly. Slave is new. I am sure that it was in a wreck hence the paint but it drives fine to me. One of the rear A arms was replaced I assume from the above mentioned off roading? Top is good but not perfect. It is an aftermarket one. I had plenty of replys to a craigslist ad I posted but I got tired of the level of broke kids emailing and calling me so I deleted it. I plan on throwing a yard sign on it when spring hits or doing the AI thing and doing a ton of work I will never recover financially from.  I can email more pics if anyone wants. Please keep me from having $10k in a $3,000 car.
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Feb 25, 2014 18:09
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Elephanthead posted:
Cars are an expense, not an investment. Consider what you get from it that cant be measured in dollars. (if i was closer i'd be very interested in this car as a beater to keep miles off of my nice later NA that i'm already 9K+ into. The girlfriend is usually in the NC sadly  )
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Feb 26, 2014 05:59
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I have a suspension squeek that is driving me nuts. The right rear creaks on weight transfer, both while driving and sitting in the car. I intially thought it was sway bar bushings until I tooks them off and greased them. I then read someone suggesting that the upper control arm bolts can cause that so I took the outside one off and greased that. No luck. Today I took sprayed a bunch on the top hat from above so it was the only thing getting lube and that stopped it, for about 40 miles. I'm thinking I need a new shock, any thoughts? I was trying to hold off on replacing actual suspension components until the spring since I want to do all 4 corners with springs and shocks.
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Feb 27, 2014 08:27
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8th-snype posted:Today I took sprayed a bunch on the top hat from above so it was the only thing getting lube and that stopped it, for about 40 miles. I'm thinking I need a new shock, any thoughts? I was trying to hold off on replacing actual suspension components until the spring since I want to do all 4 corners with springs and shocks. Inspect the spring really closely near the rubber seat at the top hat. I've had a broken spring produce the same noise and at first glance it looked fine but after taking it out I realized a small segment had broken where it meets the seat.
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Feb 27, 2014 15:55
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Control arm bushings sound like a top contender. Looks like an excuse to upgrade.
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Feb 27, 2014 19:40
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FatCow posted:Control arm bushings sound like a top contender. Looks like an excuse to upgrade. Did some more hosing with lube and the rear most lower control arm bushing seems to be the squeak (at the moment). How annoying are bushings to do in a driveway?
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Feb 27, 2014 20:53
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Pretty easy. Get the HF ball joint press. Took me about an hour per control arm. I was also drilling and tapping for zerk fittings.
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Feb 27, 2014 20:57
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FatCow posted:Pretty easy. Get the HF ball joint press. Took me about an hour per control arm. I was also drilling and tapping for zerk fittings. I would probably just get the Flyin' Miata rubber kit so no need for zerks.
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Feb 27, 2014 21:01
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 Poor Miata. How many birds did you piss off?
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Mar 1, 2014 00:55
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Man I thought birds poo poo on my 91 a lot.
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Mar 1, 2014 00:56
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