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nsaP posted:All the coin ops I've used could be activated by the attendant if you bought something there. It only cost if you just got air. In my experience, if I just ask they turn it on free. Fair warning because Goons: you might have to smile and be nice to the station attendant though.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:10
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:It's a nice rainy day, so I got all set up to change the oil on my 690 for the first time on my own (when I bought it I had it serviced/onced over at a shop). Depending on how bad it is you may be able to just chase the threads with a tap. But you said it was loose to the touch so probably not but I'd at least see if it would work.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:19
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Z3n posted:I'd get it out, inspect how deep the threads go, and make a decision to purchase the appropriate size/depth timesert accordingly. I love the poo poo out of timeserts, they're expensive but the only thing that is as good as (or better) than the original. Gotcha. Well, I'm trying the vice-grip thing but it's still spinning in place, I can't get it to re-bite.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:41
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Can you get a small screwdriver under the lip of it and pry it out while spinning a ratchet on it? It's going to require some force, likely.
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Feb 28, 2014 22:58
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Z3n posted:Can you get a small screwdriver under the lip of it and pry it out while spinning a ratchet on it? It's going to require some force, likely. Nah, there's zero space to wedge anything under the lip... I doubt I could get in dental floss.
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Feb 28, 2014 23:11
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Pull harder as you spin it. Or you're going to want to hold it in place and drill it out, and then flush the hell out of things with oil to get any metal shavings out of there.
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Feb 28, 2014 23:18
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Z3n posted:Pull harder as you spin it. Or you're going to want to hold it in place and drill it out, and then flush the hell out of things with oil to get any metal shavings out of there. I'm putting as much pull on it as I can, to the point of shaving off metal (I'm not a weak goony-goon either) I guess I could try putting the bike on it's side and maybe getting some better leverage that way. I really don't want to have to drill the fucker out. 
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Feb 28, 2014 23:25
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Yeah might have to dump the bike on it's side 
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Feb 28, 2014 23:44
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Or glue something to it you can get more purchase on.
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Mar 1, 2014 00:17
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Just weld on a handle! Nothing could go wrong with welding a thing that's stuck in your oil pan, right?
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Mar 1, 2014 00:51
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Snowdens Secret posted:Or glue something to it you can get more purchase on. Screw you bolt   Braced my feet against the bike and pulled:  No luck. After exerting all kinds of strength, the rod finally broke and I admitted defeat and called my local shop. I'll be taking it in to get drilled out next week. bieks 
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Mar 1, 2014 02:15
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Oh that's not the drain plug bolt, that's the backup oil priming rotator bolt. Don't worry about that one, just drain the oil from the side drain. 
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Mar 1, 2014 02:43
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... yeah, it's supposed to do that.  Haha!
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Mar 1, 2014 03:53
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I was wondering why his engine had 'two' drain plugs.
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Mar 1, 2014 04:15
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Z3n posted:Oh that's not the drain plug bolt, that's the backup oil priming rotator bolt. You had me there for a second. Next you'll tell me I don't have to break the lens on my headlight to replace the halogen fluid!!! HotCanadianChick posted:I was wondering why his engine had 'two' drain plugs. There's like 5 things you have to remove to change the oil on a LC4 
The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Mar 1, 2014 |
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Mar 1, 2014 05:04
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:There's like 5 things you have to remove to change the oil on a LC4 That doesn't sound very ready-to-race 
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Mar 1, 2014 05:30
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It's not the mechanics racing...
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Mar 1, 2014 05:31
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Warranty void if you change your own oil?
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Mar 1, 2014 19:37
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Warranty void if you change your own oil? Pretty standard practice in cars, not sure about bikes.
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Mar 1, 2014 20:05
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Not in 'Merica. 
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Mar 1, 2014 20:11
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Some modern BMW brake reservoirs have special lock tabs on them, kind of like a prescription pill bottle, designed for a special tool, to keep the filthy worthless owners from changing the fluid. Although in their defense, they had a brake system so obscure and complicated, it was quite easy to bleed it dry without even knowing it and then go for a ride and die.
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Mar 1, 2014 22:42
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Is it Volkswagen who have as part of their oil system a special bolt that looks like any other bolt except it's got a hole drilled through it for an oil passage and there is also a tiny little mesh filter inside the bolt? I seem to remember that from one of the AI  threads and it really  'd me
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Mar 1, 2014 23:26
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Should I be concerned about the fact that over the last two months or so the bite point of my front brake has been slowly moving towards the bar? There's no sponginess or loss of power, plenty of fluid in the reservoir, it's just moved a cm or so. I was going to try bleeding and throwing in fresh fluid just to be on the safe side, I'm just a little concerned that this is what my clutch lever started to do (in the opposite direction) just before the slave cylinder seal failed.
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Mar 2, 2014 00:13
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Ok so in order to complete the move forms I need my motorcycle VIN. Sadly I am rather far from her and all I remember is the license plate. Are there any legit sites I can use the plate number to look-up the VIN?
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Mar 2, 2014 00:38
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Call your insurance company, you gave them the VIN. It's also on your registration and title if you or someone has access to those.
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Mar 2, 2014 00:41
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Snowdens Secret posted:Call your insurance company, you gave them the VIN. It's also on your registration and title if you or someone has access to those. Just had to log into my insurance company page (USAA) and I got the info in a couple of minutes. Feel kinda dumb at the moment though 
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Mar 2, 2014 01:08
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Sagebrush posted:Is it Volkswagen who have as part of their oil system a special bolt that looks like any other bolt except it's got a hole drilled through it for an oil passage and there is also a tiny little mesh filter inside the bolt? I seem to remember that from one of the AI PSA group. The bolt was holding the feed line for the turbo so when it clogged, the turbo got the good news.
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Mar 2, 2014 01:54
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Should I be concerned about the fact that over the last two months or so the bite point of my front brake has been slowly moving towards the bar? There's no sponginess or loss of power, plenty of fluid in the reservoir, it's just moved a cm or so. I was going to try bleeding and throwing in fresh fluid just to be on the safe side, I'm just a little concerned that this is what my clutch lever started to do (in the opposite direction) just before the slave cylinder seal failed. I know its stating the obvious but have you checked the pads and callipers? A quick look to see if the pads need replacing or the callipers a clean might save a lot of time and swearing later.
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Mar 2, 2014 15:50
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ElMaligno posted:Just had to log into my insurance company page (USAA) and I got the info in a couple of minutes. Feel kinda dumb at the moment though Wait, how did you get motorcycle insurance through USAA? When I tried to add one to my other policies I was redirected to Progressive under the auspices of they don't offer it.
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Mar 2, 2014 18:02
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Have anyone here used dirt skins neoprene fork gaiters? I need to replace my old accordion ones on the transalp as they've gotten cracked. I've ordered the 2 pieces pr shock variant and I'm thinking on how to best use them.  I'm leaning for setup nr 1, but I've never used this kinda boots before so I'm unsure. What works best?
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Mar 2, 2014 21:41
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Foxtrot_13 posted:I know its stating the obvious but have you checked the pads and callipers? A quick look to see if the pads need replacing or the callipers a clean might save a lot of time and swearing later. I hadn't specifically checked them but did so when I was bleeding them - they're a little low, but fine. Bleeding revealed the liquid was a little darker than I was expecting and seems to have moved the bite point a little bit out again, I think I might just be over-thinking it a little bit, and the contrast with the bikes I test-rode yesterday had just thrown it into relief a bit.
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Mar 3, 2014 00:41
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goddamnedtwisto posted:they're a little low, but fine. I had exactly the same thought when I bled the front brakes before a trip, and then about 1500 miles from home (Monument Valley, so awesome) I hit the pad backing. I was able to overnight a pair of pads to a hotel on the way. Lesson learned: "a little low but looks good" means order the replacement part now.
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Mar 3, 2014 17:40
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OSU_Matthew posted:Wait, how did you get motorcycle insurance through USAA? When I tried to add one to my other policies I was redirected to Progressive under the auspices of they don't offer it. I was wondering myself, same thing here.
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Mar 3, 2014 18:22
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USAA probably doesn't offer motorcycle insurance in your state(s) but they do in ElMaligno's.
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Mar 3, 2014 18:38
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clutchpuck posted:I had exactly the same thought when I bled the front brakes before a trip, and then about 1500 miles from home (Monument Valley, so awesome) I hit the pad backing. I was able to overnight a pair of pads to a hotel on the way. Lesson learned: "a little low but looks good" means order the replacement part now. Actually have the replacements sitting in a drawer - needed to replace the rear so bought the fronts at the same time to get free P&P. This is the nearest I've ever come to any form of organisation in my biking life so I strongly suspect I'll end up replacing them upside down or something to redress the balance.
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Mar 3, 2014 19:15
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Supradog posted:Have anyone here used dirt skins neoprene fork gaiters? I need to replace my old accordion ones on the transalp as they've gotten cracked. Opinion seems to be divided. I've heard that they keep out some dirt, and the dirt they dont, they hold right up against your fork legs.
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Mar 4, 2014 05:01
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drat float bowl gaskets are pissing fuel in the 2000 R1. Any ghetto alternative gasket maker I can use instead of ordering OEM gaskets ? Edit: it runs though. Hah. Edit2: bought a set of 4 for $36. Meh. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 05:58
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It's not the ghetto way, more the old school way but you can just cut your own out of gasket paper. Carbs are usually a fiddly shape to cut out but if you're stuck or broke it's the best option. I had to do one for my water pump because I couldn't get an OEM gasket within a reasonable time and it was pissing out. The trick for cutting them out is to use something like engineers blue or even just a sharpie, coat the sealing surface and immediately press the part onto the paper. It should leave a good outline on the gasket paper and you can just cut it out with a scalpel or small scissors or whatever. Coat with a gasket sealant of the appropriate type (fuel resistant in your case) and bob's your uncle.
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Mar 4, 2014 14:45
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ABSAG Always Be Scanning All Gaskets. Seriously, I scanned the gasket kit for my RV90 in, and now all I have to do is print any gasket I want at the right DPI, cut it out and use it as a template to cut a real gasket out of gasket paper with.
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Mar 4, 2014 20:58
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The last carb I pulled apart had a groove with a rubber gasket of unusual shape. And the bowl was damaged so it would never seal properly. I put it back together and pretended it wasn't leaking anymore.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:36
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