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I played another full-sized game of Deadzone on the weekend with friends and once again it was amazing fun with no lulls in player engagement. In the last game all my high dice rolls had gone missing, but for this game I must have found them again. Near the end of the game I was rolling so hot that I felt a bit bad for my opponent. But such vagaries of luck are the way of wargames, and in Deadzone you can mitigate it with your hand of secret cards. Here are some highlights from the game:
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Mar 3, 2014 08:22
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 20:08 |
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Does anyone here have any of the Mantic goblins for Kings of War? I like the pointy-eared gobbo design and was wondering how they turned out. Also the Mantic site is out of them at the moment, so I'm wondering what online stores will ship to Canada.
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Mar 3, 2014 21:15
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Weirdo posted:Does anyone here have any of the Mantic goblins for Kings of War? I like the pointy-eared gobbo design and was wondering how they turned out. Also the Mantic site is out of them at the moment, so I'm wondering what online stores will ship to Canada. I don't see any kings of war in stock right now but Meeplemart might be worth contacting since they are in Canada already.
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Mar 3, 2014 21:42
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AgentF posted:So in Deadzone a model is in cover if it is inside a building, but how do you decide what is "inside" and what isn't? As far as I can tell, the battlefield looks more like a paintball arena than a proper collection of intact buildings. Deciding what is "inside" or not seems like a pretty grey-ish area. It's in cover if it is in a square with cover in it/a square designated as cover. This includes most buildings. It is in LOS cover or whatever it is called if the model is obscured. The squares are pretty binary tho, either cover or no.
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Mar 3, 2014 23:11
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Weirdo posted:Does anyone here have any of the Mantic goblins for Kings of War? I like the pointy-eared gobbo design and was wondering how they turned out. Also the Mantic site is out of them at the moment, so I'm wondering what online stores will ship to Canada. The gobbos are... variable quality at best, production-wise, and there are some REALLY bad sprue connector locations. Like on the nose, right in the middle of the face. Detail can be decent, can be blurry crap. They used a subpar plastic production process for them and the Basilean men-at-arms, which has been abandoned but left its legacy in two exceptionally bad plastic kits. Use other goblins if possible. Edit: The Mantic goblins not based on the Spitters plastic sprue are fine. It's just that one sprue is REALLY bad.
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Mar 4, 2014 01:11
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Winson_Paine posted:It's in cover if it is in a square with cover in it/a square designated as cover. This includes most buildings. It is in LOS cover or whatever it is called if the model is obscured. The squares are pretty binary tho, either cover or no. Pretty much. you and your opponent can determine what's "inside" beforehand, but mechaniically, if there something in it, there's cover. At first, that wierded me out. I mean, if cover's so frequent, why not make open squares get a penalty and make the cover bonus the standard, right? Then you realize Blaze Away actually hurts your saves when you're in cover, and pin those motherfuckers to the ground before you toss a frag weapon in and *boop* now they pinned or suppressed, and may in an open square! GO TIME.
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Mar 4, 2014 01:38
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OK I have come back to painting after over a decade, and apparently I suck at it now. Advice is welcome. Arrgh. http://imgur.com/a/Rusqu
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Mar 4, 2014 03:12
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Mar 4, 2014 03:15
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Winson_Paine posted:OK I have come back to painting after over a decade, and apparently I suck at it now. You don't really suck at painting. It could use a dark wash, black or brown, to give it some depth in the shadows and then you can go over it again after that dries to pick out the brightest highlights. It'll look fine.
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Mar 4, 2014 03:16
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Winson_Paine posted:OK I have come back to painting after over a decade, and apparently I suck at it now. Give it a wash and it should look awesome.
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Mar 4, 2014 03:18
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As Silhouette pointed out, the problem is that it looks like you spilled mustard on the thing. I'm not sure what you're going for, but I think that yellow is the wrong color to highlight/complement the bone. Stick with just the pink and bone and give it a wash and see how that looks then.
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Mar 4, 2014 04:00
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That color pallette would be an awesome thing to use a purple or dark red/maroon pigment on TBH. I'd really just give it a nice purple wash and call it good. Like, follow this tutorial: http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/09/pigments-and-how-to-paint-deathwing.html But with this: http://www.thewarstore.com/product56646.html or this: http://www.thewarstore.com/product56390.html El Estrago Bonito fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Mar 4, 2014 |
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Mar 4, 2014 05:07
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Laying down the yellow first, then hitting it with the bone colour might give it more the look you're going for. And washes are just the bees knees. A slather of brown, purple, etc. on there will blend everything together a lot better and improve the models look drastically. poo poo's basically skill in a bottle.
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Mar 4, 2014 07:05
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Indolent Bastard posted:I don't see any kings of war in stock right now but Meeplemart might be worth contacting since they are in Canada already. Meeplemart also has the Basicks Soviet Goblins  muskets posted:The gobbos are... variable quality at best, production-wise, and there are some REALLY bad sprue connector locations. Like on the nose, right in the middle of the face. Detail can be decent, can be blurry crap. They used a subpar plastic production process for them and the Basilean men-at-arms, which has been abandoned but left its legacy in two exceptionally bad plastic kits. Use other goblins if possible. Good to know!
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Mar 4, 2014 08:22
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Weirdo posted:Does anyone here have any of the Mantic goblins for Kings of War? I like the pointy-eared gobbo design and was wondering how they turned out. Also the Mantic site is out of them at the moment, so I'm wondering what online stores will ship to Canada. The plastics look fine from tabletop height, less so up close. As muskets said they've not got the best definition or detail, but do paint up acceptably. The heroes are absolutely gorgeous.
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Mar 4, 2014 14:57
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JerryLee posted:As Silhouette pointed out, the problem is that it looks like you spilled mustard on the thing. I'm not sure what you're going for, but I think that yellow is the wrong color to highlight/complement the bone. Stick with just the pink and bone and give it a wash and see how that looks then. I wasn't really sure what I was going for either, other than I hadn't painted a mini in over ten years and was sort of messing about. I might try the purple wash deal; although I have totally forgotten how to do washes so I will need to look that up again.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:03
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For the first and second gens you can get a decent result just heavily washing red over white primer and highlighting bone and white. I finally finished my plagues I'll post them up when I get home and get my lightbox set up.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:21
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Winson_Paine posted:I wasn't really sure what I was going for either, other than I hadn't painted a mini in over ten years and was sort of messing about. I might try the purple wash deal; although I have totally forgotten how to do washes so I will need to look that up again. 1. Dip brush in wash 2. Cover mini with wash Done
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Mar 4, 2014 16:22
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Daedleh posted:1. Dip brush in wash There's a few caveats like what you do to avoid pooling when you're trying to shade a large flat area or something with washes, but yeah, as a first pass this is basically it.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:24
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Daedleh posted:1. Dip brush in wash I have completely forgotten how to make a wash, although IIRC it is like, ink or paint and water. I seem to recall people adding soap or floor polish or bongwater to theirs but these memories are dim at best.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:27
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You can just buy washes if you can't remember how to make them.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:32
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You'll want to pick up a pre made wash to get a feel for how it should behave before you try making your own. GW, Vallejo, and Army Painter all make great washes, but make sure you don't accidently pick up an ink or glaze. Sepia or any dark color will work better than black, which just kills the color. For your model, I'd slob Army Painter A soft tone on the recesses, and then the next day paint a thin highlight of bone/ivory over the white areas. When that's dry, maybe even put a small amount of pure white highlighting over that.
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Mar 4, 2014 16:50
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Yeah washes come pre made now so no messing about with mixing your own. Just rock the army painter washes, especially now they've got a full set of coloured ones.
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Mar 4, 2014 17:49
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There's a $20 Army Patiner set, I totally recommend that.
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Mar 4, 2014 18:05
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Winson_Paine posted:I have completely forgotten how to make a wash, although IIRC it is like, ink or paint and water. I seem to recall people adding soap or floor polish or bongwater to theirs but these memories are dim at best. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gR3aIAth5qU Or just but some GW wash.
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Mar 4, 2014 18:22
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Wow, I can't seem to find anyone shipping the Goblin rabble to Canada. I guess Mantic needs to whip up some more boxes.
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Mar 4, 2014 20:15
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Mantic is unlocking a team a day now. I wonder what their projections for the Xtreme kickstarter were.
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Mar 4, 2014 20:34
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moths posted:You'll want to pick up a pre made wash to get a feel for how it should behave before you try making your own. GW, Vallejo, and Army Painter all make great washes, but make sure you don't accidently pick up an ink or glaze. NB: Army Painter actually labels their dropper-bottle washes as inks, or at least they did when I bought mine in the past couple of months. It's annoying, but the product itself is a fine wash.
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Mar 4, 2014 21:36
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Here are some Plague, I realised I had two of everything so I did day and night versions. Most of the difference in the night guys just came from priming grey instead of white. Got to play around a lot with light sources etc which was fun. These pictures reveal that I didn't do a very good job cleaning the models but gently caress it I am happy with them, the Night 1st Gen is my favourite. Day Mode:    Night Mode:        
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Mar 4, 2014 22:00
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I over did it, but I think I like. A lovely homemade purple wash followed by me remembering I had NULN OIL and then bone and white drybrushing gets this: http://imgur.com/a/tGFuJ I think I like it, and it looks OK from a few inches away, and it is supposed to be a gross monster, so I am gonna clal it good. I will detail the face later I think, once I get a steadier hand.
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Mar 4, 2014 22:50
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 This looks really loving good. Finish the base and pick out the details (the
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Mar 5, 2014 05:19
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That looks like infi better. The softening and shading offered by the wash, plus the additional drybrushing, make the remaining yellow hues look like bona fide discolorations on the bone, rather than spilled mustard. I sorta liked the salmon pink flesh you had gone on in the first one and am kind of disappointed it got washed into a blackish purple, but the new shade also looks good on its own merits.
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Mar 5, 2014 05:37
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Anyone have a good way to summarize the playable factions we have at the moment? I've only really done a slight demo game so I don't really feel qualified explaining the nuances between each of them and things like each one having their own mission deck vary them more than the models themselves indicate. Best I can really tell are that the Enforcers are more of an elite group with fewer troops but decent armor and mobility. Rebs have a lot of weenie troops with special abilities. Plague get a bit of randomness but seem to be slightly more melee focused. And Marauders are almost the average army with a wide unit cost variance and some big bad guns. I'm guessing space elf robots will be one of the more mobile factions and dwarves more armored. And is it just me, or has the new Dreadball KS really slowed to a crawl? thiswayliesmadness fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 07:12
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Winson_Paine posted:I over did it, but I think I like. A lovely homemade purple wash followed by me remembering I had NULN OIL and then bone and white drybrushing gets this: I dig it. The dark washes toned down the yellow, and now it blends into the bone better.
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Mar 5, 2014 07:25
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thiswayliesmadness posted:And is it just me, or has the new Dreadball KS really slowed to a crawl? It just picked up again after they made a cut off date for the Frenzy level, and added the last 3 season 5 teams for free and not as stretch goals. Otherwise it was in danger of sliding. Edit: Can anyone recommend anything to put the card decks in? At the moment I'm looking at clear plastic 50 card CCG cases on ebay, wondering if there are alternatives NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 11:12 on Mar 5, 2014 |
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Mar 5, 2014 08:07
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JerryLee posted:That looks like infi better. The softening and shading offered by the wash, plus the additional drybrushing, make the remaining yellow hues look like bona fide discolorations on the bone, rather than spilled mustard. After mustard was mentioned I really wanted to model a hot dog into each hand.
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Mar 5, 2014 18:16
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Weirdo posted:Wow, I can't seem to find anyone shipping the Goblin rabble to Canada. I guess Mantic needs to whip up some more boxes. I've got an email from one of their sales guys saying that their boat from china containing all the goblins got delayed due to bad weather, so they haven't got any goblins at all (this was two weeks ago)
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Mar 5, 2014 20:34
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I'm excited again now they've announced the rebs team for Xtreme
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Mar 5, 2014 21:43
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Centaurs AND frog people just isn't fair.
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Mar 5, 2014 22:00
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Eventual warpath rebs faction is gonna be amazing
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Mar 5, 2014 22:10
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