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I also just finished that model and noticed that your tombstone looks different than mine. Did you file off the inscription and cut down the cross? (Crosses always seemed too real-world for fantasy gaming, and I'd considered doing that myself.)
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Jan 27, 2014 00:44
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moths posted:(Crosses always seemed too real-world for fantasy gaming, and I'd considered doing that myself.) If you think of them historically as torture and public execution devices they make much more sense than the christian angle.
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Jan 27, 2014 00:59
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moths posted:I also just finished that model and noticed that your tombstone looks different than mine. Did you file off the inscription and cut down the cross? Yeah, it's meant to go with some Tomb Kings that I picked up to paint, so a western tombstone would have looked out of place. The inscription is covered by Greenstuff. EDIT: Post pics of your skellington Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 09:26 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 07:36
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Sure! Cross-posting from the Oath thread:moths posted:Oath Complete! I'm thinking that 4x40mm bases ought to come standard with this guy.
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Jan 27, 2014 12:35
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moths posted:Oath Complete! Owns bones, love the mix of flock and stones on that base.
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Jan 27, 2014 12:49
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nesbit37 posted:If you think of them historically as torture and public execution devices they make much more sense than the christian angle. In that context they wouldn't be on tombstones though.
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Jan 29, 2014 00:56
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Well, unless it was to remind the family that their loved one was tortured to death in a public execution.
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Jan 29, 2014 01:02
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moths posted:Well, unless it was to remind the family that their loved one was tortured to death in a public execution. That's pretty horrible. Have you ever seen a guillotine or a hangman's noose or a firing squad on a real gravestone? Not saying it couldn't happen, mind you... but I think usually gravestones historically were paid for by family members and/or the church. Military and royalty are different, but they're maybe less likely to have been executed. Well. Plenty of royalty got executed. But I'm betting they either got an obscure burial, no burial at all, rather than some kind of shameful burial intended to point out how bad they were? Anyway that's all beside the point. I personally also get annoyed when I see real-world symbols put into non-real-world fantasy settings, because I find them jarring; the symbology is inseperable from the historical context in my mind, so it's out of place. Whether that's a crucifix on a gravestone, or a heart on an Eldar craftworld sigil.
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Jan 29, 2014 06:46
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'Two lines crossing at right angles' and variants thereof is a symbol that can (and did) reasonably emerge in a lot of ways that have nothing to do with crucifixion or Christianity, but using a Christian-looking cross on a gravestone is a bit specific, yes.
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Jan 29, 2014 08:21
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Some of my Bones minis stand in awkward positions. Like they've been pushed forward too far and I'm having a hard time making them stand up straight. Or my young red dragon's wings are in an odd position. Both of these come from the minis being pushed flat in the packaging. Any suggestions for fixing them?
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Feb 1, 2014 23:58
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Dunking in boiling water followed by dunking in ice water will reset slightly bent ones. You might need to fiddle with them a bit post-boiling for more extreme cases.
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Feb 2, 2014 00:00
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PublicOpinion posted:Dunking in boiling water followed by dunking in ice water will reset slightly bent ones. You might need to fiddle with them a bit post-boiling for more extreme cases. Thanks, giving that a try tonite. Also, I need MOAR GOBLINZ for something. I saw on the previous page something about 24 goblins or whatnot. Is this A Thing?
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Feb 2, 2014 00:42
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Oxford Comma posted:Some of my Bones minis stand in awkward positions. Like they've been pushed forward too far and I'm having a hard time making them stand up straight. Or my young red dragon's wings are in an odd position. Both of these come from the minis being pushed flat in the packaging. Any suggestions for fixing them? Man, you were like, literally at my house last night, and I told you I had bones. You can ask me these things! I have boiled bones before. The key is that the water really does need to be near-boiling, and you really do need the ice cold to shock the bones plastic into being solid again. Anyway: six goblins for $3.99 is the retail for bones goblins. That's not a bad price.
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Feb 2, 2014 01:40
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Oxford Comma posted:Thanks, giving that a try tonite.
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Feb 2, 2014 02:27
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Leperflesh posted:Man, you were like, literally at my house last night, and I told you I had bones. You can ask me these things! I have boiled bones before. Because I didn't look at them until the next day? 
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Feb 3, 2014 01:36
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Oxford Comma posted:Because I didn't look at them until the next day? WEll.... well that's just reasonable. I guess.
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Feb 3, 2014 08:40
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Are there any UK goons willing to part with some bones? I'm looking for the giant/giantess minis, and any of the dragons that aren't Kaladrax.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:36
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Lethemonster posted:Are there any UK goons willing to part with some bones? I'm looking for the giant/giantess minis, and any of the dragons that aren't Kaladrax. I got almost all of the dragons but even though I haven't painted a single one yet the only one I want to part with is the Wyrmgears one (I think he was called the Clockwork Dragon in the Kickstarter). All the others I want to use as practice for large figures and such but if you want that one let me know.
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Mar 18, 2014 16:39
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krushgroove posted:I got almost all of the dragons but even though I haven't painted a single one yet the only one I want to part with is the Wyrmgears one (I think he was called the Clockwork Dragon in the Kickstarter). All the others I want to use as practice for large figures and such but if you want that one let me know. Nah, Wyrmgears look like rear end.  PM me before you start painting Kaladrax, I'll tell you how I did a bunch of things that'll make your life a lot easier! 
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Mar 18, 2014 18:20
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No worries, and I'll be in touch for Kaladrax tips
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Mar 19, 2014 16:27
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I must be the only person who actually likes the Clockwork Dragon.
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Mar 19, 2014 18:23
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I like it except the wings, which look WAY too static. The concept art had them with metal ribs and leather between the fingers, and the flat untextured plastic is just dull. Irisofether painted him up really well in the oath thread though, so he does clean up pretty well. E: Lethemonster posted:Are there any UK goons willing to part with some bones? I'm looking for the giant/giantess minis, and any of the dragons that aren't Kaladrax. No giants going, but I've got the plant elemental in a duplicate I could part with, and indeed the Frost WYrm.
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Mar 19, 2014 19:48
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Well, bonesium cuts easy...cut out the wing flaps just leaving ribs, glue tea-stained parchment in its place.  Weep the first time it flexes a little too much and shreds the wing flaps.
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Mar 19, 2014 19:50
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That's the other problem with the wings: they're not standard bonesium, they're a lot harder and stiffer and more difficult to cut. (I do plan to do that anyway, I just might have to attack them with a hacksaw rather than a hobby knife)
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Mar 19, 2014 20:56
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thespaceinvader posted:I like it except the wings, which look WAY too static. The concept art had them with metal ribs and leather between the fingers, and the flat untextured plastic is just dull. Aww, thanks!  It seems like a few folks have been playing around with getting Wyrmgear to look a little more dynamic. Here's what I've found in today's dragnet: My previously mentioned sci-fi-ish Oath entry: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?action=showpost&postid=425085052 Canvas-style wing paint job, no cutting required: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/52464-wyrmgear-the-clockwork-dragon/ Canvas-style wing replacement, cutting required: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/51502-wyrmgear-clockwork-dragon-conversion/ Boiling and warping the wing plastic (I'm not fond of it): http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/50163-clockwork-dragon-wormgear-wings-not-bones/ 2-3 Wyrmgear dioramas, both with & without wings included: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/49646-here-be-dragons-2013-diorama-entry-thread/page-3 There was also this utterly badass conversion where the guy was literally sculpting on muscle tissue with greenstuff to make him into a cyborg dragon, but for the love of me I can no longer find it. 
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Mar 19, 2014 23:36
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I don't suppose you've got a mini-tutorial on how you did the LED eye setup?
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Mar 19, 2014 23:54
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thiswayliesmadness posted:I don't suppose you've got a mini-tutorial on how you did the LED eye setup? Sure! Let's do this.  There are two main concerns for the project: getting the light to where you want it, and powering the light source in a discrete and functional way. Here's how I ended up doing it.  I decided that I wanted to put the battery in the base and route the light up to the dragon's head. I considered 2 ways of doing this: one was to cut a cavity in the chest and run a light pipe up to the eyes, and the other was to cut out a small cavity in the head and run the wires down through the body. Since there was enough room in the head for the LED and since I thought it would be technically a little easier, I went with the second option. I think either will work, though, depending on what you want to go for. Drilling At this point, I needed to make a channel for the wires to path through. Prior to assembling it, I took out a sharp knife and cut the neck into pieces. The green lines on the picture show where on the neck I cut it. I separated the pieces, pulled out my pin vice, and started drilling. At the eyes, I drilled 'into' the page at the red circle with a small drill bit. I did it at a slight angle so that you can't just see straight through the dragon's head, but the goal was for the two 'eye channels' to meet inside the head. Once that was drilled out, I switched to a larger bit and drilled inward from the cut I made towards the nose until I reached the eye channels. We now have a path from the neck to the eyes. The remainder of the drilling proceeded along the red lines on my diagram. With the dragon sectioned and drilled out, I moved onto the wiring. Wiring A 1/8" bit ends up being perfect (if snug) for a 3mm LED, so I stuck it in the head (blue blob) with the leads poking out of the severed neck. I trimmed down the leads pretty short, then soldered on a pair of long wires to the ends. I pushed those wires through the neck pieces, then down into a cavity I cut out of the base. Now comes the electrical part.  Thankfully you only need to keep a few things in mind when you wire up an LED: you need to make sure it has enough voltage, you need to make sure you limit how much current it can draw, and you need to make sure you get the polarity right. The datasheet for an LED will tell you what it's 'forward voltage' is - that's how much voltage you'd see across it if you measured with a meter. To get the thing to light up, you need more voltage on your battery than the forward voltage of the LED. My datasheet says it needs a forward voltage of 2V, so I pick a 3V (coin cell) battery. The resistor is there to limit the amount of current that the LED will see. The way an LED works, it will automatically 'use' 2V of my 3V, but then I have to do something with that extra 1V. Ohm's Law says that voltage = current * resistance (V=I*R), so if I have 1V but very low resistance, the battery will be able to supply a very high amount of current. This fries LEDs. In reality, coin cell batteries actually have a pretty high resistance to them just naturally, so you often can just get away with connecting the battery directly to the LED. But it's not good practice, and it's not foolproof. I, uh, may have burned out the 'yellow' section of my Wyrmgear's multi-color LED when I was playing around with it.  Throwing the theory aside, what this means for a tinker is that you should solder one LED wire directly to your battery socket, and solder the other LED wire to a resistor. Solder that resistor to the other wire on your socket. Use the largest valued resistor that still lets your LED light up to the brightness you want for maximum life. In my case, I have this: code:If you pop your battery in and it doesn't work, flip the battery. You may have the polarity of the LED backwards. If it still doesn't work, try decreasing the resistor or checking if your battery is still good. If it still doesn't work, try another LED and see if you accidentally fried the first one. Lastly, LEDs are pretty long lasting in general, but I made sure that my Wyrmgear's head section could be popped off if I ever needed to make repairs. Just being paranoid.  Final Assembly Except for the head piece, all cuts are held together with super glue/cyanoacrylate, and the gaps stopped up with some epoxy putty. The piece where the neck meets up with the base got 2 pins added to it as well. The smaller pieces didn't need pinning, as my wires are so thick that they help with that on their own.
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Mar 20, 2014 01:08
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Zurai posted:I must be the only person who actually likes the Clockwork Dragon. I think I'd really enjoy painting one, but I wouldn't want to keep it (don't like keeping things I paint) and no one would buy it from me afterwards. I have ideas and sketches for wing replacements, but I'm keeping those ideas hidden until I get my hands on one or use them on something else
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Mar 20, 2014 02:25
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Lethemonster posted:Nah, Wyrmgears look like rear end. Post it here! I am also interested, and it is certainly bones-related.
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Mar 20, 2014 02:37
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 That's a nice fake otyugh, that is.
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Mar 21, 2014 23:01
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Stephenls posted:
Yeah, too bad it's from the otherwise poopy Thank You Set. I wanted that a lot, but not $20 bad.
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Mar 21, 2014 23:19
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I think I actually bought the Thank You set for the menhir.
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Mar 21, 2014 23:33
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I forget if I finally decided to go in for the thank you set. But if I didn't, I'll probably just buy one retail when it comes out, because that looks like a fun mini to paint, and it'll be useful in a lot of different games.
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Mar 21, 2014 23:34
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Since the thread's been bumped, here's the wonky-ankled fucker in all his glory: I'm pretty pleased with how the painting came out, albeit the wings and base are a little  - the base is for a reason, using last month's hydra in play, I found it would have been useful not to have junk on the base so minis could be placed on it (4e rules normal size minis can share space with huge creatures like these), so I kept the base very simple. The wings, I just rushed a bit cos I had to get it done all in one weekend.It was painted and used as a vampiric green dragon, hence the slightly faded colours and the albino-rabbit eyes, which I'm particularly chuffed with. I fixed the wonky ankles by pinning the tail down to the base, but even with that he still stands at a fairly significant cant. E: no jurnal, unless you'll give me the base which is an addition of my own design. thespaceinvader fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 01:20
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that looks pretty good, from half of the angles Is that lean standard or did you get some funky bones?
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Mar 22, 2014 01:33
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It's a model well-known for having weak-rear end ankles and being seriously prone to bending. I tried to fix it with boil-and-setting, then by shaving one side base shorter than the other, then by saying 'gently caress it' and ignoring it. If I'd been really into fixing it properly, I would have made some sort of jig to hold the legs out straight, drilled right up past the ankle joint to where it starts getting solid and inserted some 2.5 mm brass rod the whole length, but I had already finished the painting by the time I worked that out D: Even as it is, it's a lot better than when I started. To begin with he sat probably another 10 degrees leaned further over, and one foot was curled almost in a circle. It's sometimes pretty telling that this was the first run of bones; this wouldn't have been a problem with slightly tougher plastic or with metal.
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Mar 22, 2014 01:49
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I actually really like the filth beast, and I think I will get a good bit of value out of the 'thank you' pack. I also kinda bought it just for the menhir
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Mar 22, 2014 18:08
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The Thank You pack just barely missed my 'buy' threshold, as I was trying to keep on a fixed budget. But I'll likely pick up the filth beast and the peryton once they're in retail.
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Mar 22, 2014 19:49
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Kaladrax got his real workout today:   Lethemonster did a phenomenally great job with him. I'm really pleased with how he looks and he went down fantastically well with the group. Lethemonster, genuinely, you should start taking commissions, you did great work.
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Mar 22, 2014 21:02
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Whooo it's so cool to see him on the board! I'm so glad I got to see something I painted being played with, thank you for grabbing me some shots
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Mar 23, 2014 03:44
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