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Yeah, exactly. It'll be in the automotive section of Wal-Mart, though I've seen it a few times in various hardware stores. I used the regular "ready to use" stuff and soaked some really old metal minis for a week and it didn't really do a great job. Two days in the concentrate and a few swipes of a toothbrush got them significantly cleaner. You definitely want to wear gloves, though, and keep the area well-ventilated. That poo poo stank up my downstairs bathroom for days.
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Mar 21, 2014 15:35
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This version of the product always stripped my metal/plastic models to the bare after a few hours of soaking and a little toothbrushing:
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Mar 21, 2014 15:55
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Yeah I always just use the supermarket all-purpose stuff and it works fine. Takes a couple days to get through varnish or primer but that's fine.
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Mar 21, 2014 15:57
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Razzled posted:This version of the product always stripped my metal/plastic models to the bare after a few hours of soaking and a little toothbrushing: That's the stuff, right there.
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Mar 21, 2014 16:23
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That's the stuff I got in my grocery store. Maybe your supermarket just sucks.
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Mar 21, 2014 23:58
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Xposting, because I'm actually pretty pleased with this. I'm pretty pleased with how the painting came out, albeit the wings and base are a little  - the base is for a reason, using last month's hydra in play, I found it would have been useful not to have junk on the base so minis could be placed on it (4e rules normal size minis can share space with huge creatures like these), so I kept the base very simple. The wings, I just rushed a bit cos I had to get it done all in one weekend.It was painted and used as a vampiric green dragon, hence the slightly faded colours and the albino-rabbit eyes, which I'm particularly chuffed with.
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Mar 22, 2014 01:19
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Beerdeer posted:Any advice for shading/highlighting pink horrors? I basecoated with Liquitex Magenta 6 spray, which is VERY similar to old tentacle pink. For shading you can go with Carroburg Crimson if you want to go full color, or just use Agrax if you want to dirty them up a bit. I dipped mine in Minwax Polyshades Tudor (which is a bit darker than Agrax but not Nuln Oil dark) so my Pink Horrors are Pink with dark shading but Carroburg on pink looks really good too although if you want to maintain that shade of pink you're going to have to thin down any wash you use so it doesn't alter your base too much or re-paint the high spots. Try GW Emperor's Children with a bit of white mixed in for highlights or use Fulgrim Pink (which looks incredibly familiar to Tentacle Pink) with white mixed in. Apparently VGC Squid Pink is almost exactly like Tentacle Pink as well so you can just mix in some white to lighten it. Also everybody needs to stop using Simple Green and start using Castrol Super Clean, your arms and time will thank you. SG doesn't even compare to CSC so you really shouldn't use SG now unless it's the ONLY thing you can get. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Mar 22, 2014 |
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Mar 22, 2014 01:33
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Pilgrimski posted:Anyone willing to have a go and make me some graffiti? The ones I like the most get a spot on my containers! Here's my attempt (open in new tab for huge): 
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Mar 22, 2014 03:29
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Pacheeco posted:
Guess we need a thread title change then.
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Mar 22, 2014 05:17
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JoshTheStampede posted:Guess we need a thread title change then. It might not be available outside the US but if you can get it Super Clean works so, SO much better than Simple Green and it's 100% safe on plastic and Finecast. I've left models in Super Clean for weeks straight with no adverse effects. It's definitely more harsh than Simple Green so don't get it on your skin but it works so fast it's worth it.
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Mar 22, 2014 05:22
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Pacheeco posted:For shading you can go with Carroburg Crimson if you want to go full color, or just use Agrax if you want to dirty them up a bit. I dipped mine in Minwax Polyshades Tudor (which is a bit darker than Agrax but not Nuln Oil dark) so my Pink Horrors are Pink with dark shading but Carroburg on pink looks really good too although if you want to maintain that shade of pink you're going to have to thin down any wash you use so it doesn't alter your base too much or re-paint the high spots. Try GW Emperor's Children with a bit of white mixed in for highlights or use Fulgrim Pink (which looks incredibly familiar to Tentacle Pink) with white mixed in. Apparently VGC Squid Pink is almost exactly like Tentacle Pink as well so you can just mix in some white to lighten it. Finally! My endless proselytization is starting to pay off.
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Mar 22, 2014 05:27
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Indolent Bastard posted:Finally! My endless proselytization is starting to pay off. I've been all about Super Clean ever since I picked up some eBay salvage and days worth of multiple soaks and scrubs with Simple Green just didn't work at all. Like, barely even dented the paint. Whatever primer they were painted with was immune to SG but CSC took it off in a few hours.
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Mar 22, 2014 05:43
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Indolent Bastard posted:Finally! My endless proselytization is starting to pay off. Woah, from cursory research it seems to work so well because it's basically a gel of soap and Lye. Seems a bit heavy duty to me, at least for anything besides white metal.
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Mar 22, 2014 05:50
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I thought it was time to contribute something to the thread. PC character "Drudge Jedd" an Inquisitor for our Law&Order-themed D&D game. Yes, we use   I had great fun with old boxes of ogre bulls and leadbelchers.  Part of a birthday present, this mini will sit in a small shadowbox along with several others to commemorate past games and time well spent  
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Mar 22, 2014 06:56
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I won't be able to beat your Dredd but I'm still gonna show off, dammit!    The base I'll get to, once I finish his other three compatriots. That'll make a minimum squad of five (the cannon would be illegal in such a small unit but gently caress it! Space Pirates! Also, I'm still not feeling like the pink is obnoxious enough! 
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Mar 22, 2014 08:52
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parabolic posted:Woah, from cursory research it seems to work so well because it's basically a gel of soap and Lye. Seems a bit heavy duty to me, at least for anything besides white metal. It works wonders on plastic and resin without damaging it. If you wear gloves you are fine, even if you don't your hands only end up dry and itchy when you are done. As evidenced here and here.
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Mar 22, 2014 15:06
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Just painted this Thudd Gun that I'll be using as a Thunderfire in games:  
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Mar 22, 2014 19:06
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The Stonehaven Kickstarter gnomes are tiny and awesome.     But man, is there no room for error at that scale.
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Mar 22, 2014 19:59
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Those gnomes are dope. Crosspostin' Part of the squad finished.  But needs support.  Ruh roh.    Rawr.
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Mar 22, 2014 21:23
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spacegoat posted:Those gnomes are dope. Oh my god, old 'nids are hilarious.
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Mar 22, 2014 22:31
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   Finally got around to finishing my Tzeentch Daemon Prince that I'll probably never use because Daemon Princes are ridiculous expensive in game. I messed up his axe pretty bad so now he has a Staff of Change  . Paint job isn't the greatest, it's pretty sloppy actually but I just wanted to get this model done. I tried working with watercolor wash which worked alright except I used too much paint so the wash came out super dense. In hindsight I should have painted the staff flames pink instead of blue to contrast against the blueness of the model but I rushed through 80% of the model in about a day so I wasn't really thinking much. I did create an easy technique for that dirty bone color which I think came out pretty good for a complete accident.
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Mar 22, 2014 23:30
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Looks Great! The skin and the armour contrast really well together.
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Mar 23, 2014 00:00
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Crain posted:Oh my god, old 'nids are hilarious.
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Mar 23, 2014 00:27
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I'm sorry for posting this again but I haven't been able to get any criticism on it after posting it a few places. Just seems to go under the radar. If any of you could tell me what you think I could improve on that would be great. It's sat at 6.3 on CMoN and I want to end up around 7.   And lots of pictures of individual parts up here, so I don't spam the thread with hundreds of bone pictures: http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/more-kaladrax.html http://lethemonster.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/kaladrax-finished.html I was going to paint a vampire counts undead dragon in the same style to sell once I found some feedback somewhere.
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Mar 23, 2014 00:28
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Honestly, I suspect part of the issue on CMON is just that it's not a very varied model - there's only so much you can do with bone and rocks. In technical terms there's little I can see wrong in person, and it looks great to me.
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Mar 23, 2014 00:37
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No offense but I would probably give that Kaladrax a 6 or so. It's more impressive that you actually managed to paint something that large than what the paint job looks like. As far as large scale miniatures your Kaladrax is slightly above average (so... a 6). It could be the photos but they base itself looks kinda unfinished to me, but your white balancing could be killing any layering you did on the stone I don't know. You did a lot of smooth airbrush blending on him and that is very hard to photograph right, I can tell it exists but that photo has definitely gotten rid of what I imagine is a much more pronounced effect in real life. I can barely tell there is some marble effects on the rocks but the combination of your aggressive overhead light and either your camera or post productions light balancing has pretty much nuked all of that as well. You also have to realize that a lot of people grade more harshly for large scale stuff. The kind of work people put in on 54mm+ is generally much much higher so you're going to (maybe unfairly) be graded against that kind of stuff as opposed to other more gaming focused things.
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Mar 23, 2014 01:37
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Does anyone have any experience with using an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for cleaning airbrush parts, and possibly stripping paint on models when it is hard to get out recesses?
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Mar 23, 2014 02:05
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El Estrago Bonito posted:No offense but I would probably give that Kaladrax a 6 or so. It's more impressive that you actually managed to paint something that large than what the paint job looks like. As far as large scale miniatures your Kaladrax is slightly above average (so... a 6). It could be the photos but they base itself looks kinda unfinished to me, but your white balancing could be killing any layering you did on the stone I don't know. You did a lot of smooth airbrush blending on him and that is very hard to photograph right, I can tell it exists but that photo has definitely gotten rid of what I imagine is a much more pronounced effect in real life. I can barely tell there is some marble effects on the rocks but the combination of your aggressive overhead light and either your camera or post productions light balancing has pretty much nuked all of that as well. I'm not offended at all - it's just until someone like you commented I couldn't tell what anyone else saw in it! I will work on the photography then to start with so I can get more accurate criticism of the paintjob. I don't care if someone said it was a 2 out of 10 - I have the typical art thing of 'oh I made it therefore it is all rubbish' so anyone taking the time to tell me what they see in it as flawed is really helpful. Thank you 
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Mar 23, 2014 02:06
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Cyclomatic posted:Does anyone have any experience with using an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for cleaning airbrush parts, and possibly stripping paint on models when it is hard to get out recesses? They work great for cleaning airbrush parts, I clean mine in an ultrasonic cleaner pretty regularly; just scrub off any large deposits of paint and then disassemble and cycle a couple of times. Pick up some Regdab or some other airbrush lubricant though because an ultrasonic cleaner will strip every piece completely dry. A basic ultrasonic off Amazon isn't going to completely strip a model clean but if you soak it in CSC and then scrub the majority off and then cycle it through an ultrasonic cleaner a few times, that really helps loosen the paint out of the tight crevices. It depends largely on the quality of your cleaner and how old the paint is. I've noticed fresh paint was loosened very easily but my cleaner has a hard time lifting really old paint. I've seen videos on YouTube of massive ultrasonic cleaners "completely" stripping large models but we're talking running them through multiple 2 to 4 hour long cycles in massive, high heat ultrasonic cleaners. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Mar 23, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 02:11
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SRM posted:Just painted this Thudd Gun that I'll be using as a Thunderfire in games: Oh my god.  spacegoat posted:Part of the squad finished. Oh my loving god.  Organize a campaign, you two. Take pictures.
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Mar 23, 2014 02:16
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On the dragon, my biggest reaction is that the bones don't have enough shades and highlights. Miniatures tend to look plastic if they don't have a lot of shading and highlighting. The stones on the base look a bit on the plastic side too. Except for the stones that have the marble pattern painted on them. All the stones should look like that. Also, with the vegetation on the base, add more of different types. More is almost always better when it comes to basing, but you've got to mix the materials up. Maybe even think about applying limited amount of dirt and slight vegetation to the dragon itself, as that would make it look like it was a proper pile of bones that had been sitting around. You'd have to be careful though, as you could easily over do it on the model itself.
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Mar 23, 2014 02:22
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SRM posted:If by "hilarious" you mean "awesome" then yeah, you're totally right. I said it in the 40k thread, but those Nids are looking boss! Now get up to Boston so we can fight like it's 1993! 2nd Edition rules? Trying to make a 6th list with 2nd models is just highlighting how loving bad this codex has gotten.
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Mar 23, 2014 02:30
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spacegoat posted:2nd Edition rules? Trying to make a 6th list with 2nd models is just highlighting how loving bad this codex has gotten.  I had a wicked fun game against Orks with it a few weeks ago.
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Mar 23, 2014 02:52
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Yo! Thanks for always replying to my plague dudes guys, cause of that I finished my Plague Champion! Except for deciding which chapter for the marine head. How's it look? I made a couple mistakes, like added to much green stuff to his back so the backpack has a gap, the same case goes for the chest. Although they've been fixed. Lord Humongus fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Mar 23, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 03:04
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Thanks for the feedback on the dragon guys. I am halfway through painting another high elf pheonix atm so I should have that to post in a week! My blue pheonix I posted ages ago is my 'best' model so far even though it's not technically very well painted. I'm guessing I managed to make colour choices that made it look more interesting even if the detailed execution was rough. See if I can nail both aspects this time.
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Mar 23, 2014 03:39
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Having the right colors is more important than the technical execution of the application of the paint in my experience.
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Mar 23, 2014 03:51
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Lethemonster posted:I'm sorry for posting this again but I haven't been able to get any criticism on it after posting it a few places. Just seems to go under the radar. If any of you could tell me what you think I could improve on that would be great. It's sat at 6.3 on CMoN and I want to end up around 7.
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Mar 23, 2014 04:05
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I was about to say the opposite about the base. I think the gold part looks super awesome but the rocks are a little flat and uninteresting.
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Mar 23, 2014 04:06
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I just assumed there was a bunch of stuff going on with the rocks that I couldn't see because of lighting issues, just going off the one chunk of marble that's well-exposed and looks great. That said, a great example of no one person's advice being perfect, since everyone has different taste in what looks good to them.
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Mar 23, 2014 04:13
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I've compared and I am definitely a crappy photographer. This is what the base looked like last time I took a photo: Which looks a lot less flat that the pics above. But I don't want to be a thread hog so thanks for the advice/comments guys, really helps.
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Mar 23, 2014 04:34
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