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Its weird because over here in New Zealand Mazdas (both NZ new cars and grey imports) don't seem to have any rust issues whatsoever. Actually speaking for 2000+ cars Nissans and Toyotas are much more likely to have a few rusts spots (obviously nowhere near the extent of those pictures, both those cars would have failed safety inspections years ago here)
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Mar 23, 2014 08:44
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 I haven't seen one make a fireball this big before.
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Mar 23, 2014 09:58
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dissss posted:Its weird because over here in New Zealand Mazdas (both NZ new cars and grey imports) don't seem to have any rust issues whatsoever. Actually speaking for 2000+ cars Nissans and Toyotas are much more likely to have a few rusts spots (obviously nowhere near the extent of those pictures, both those cars would have failed safety inspections years ago here) I've seen a few imported mazdas with some pretty dire rust on the subframes but never anything you can see standing next to them. The rustiest modern car I can think of is the nissan march/micra.
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Mar 23, 2014 10:03
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Ulfhednar posted:
Can a stray oil line cause that or is it just the obvious fuel pressure line vs tarbo housing?
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Mar 23, 2014 10:39
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Powershift posted:And i thought this was bad. This is a 2004 mazda 3, and the other side was just as bad. How much salt is used on your roads? Mazdas (and other Japanese cars) here in Finland do rust more than most other brands, but I've never seen anything like these examples. A bad case might have a few visible rust spots on a ten year old car, but nothing more than that.
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Mar 23, 2014 10:57
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Kotaru posted:Apparently someone on Reddit took pictures of something Sock touched; http://imgur.com/a/sPeQJ Deathreaper posted:Found this on FB today - Your average Mazda Protege in the wild (Quebec / Ontario). Had the unfortunate experience of owning one as a first car a few years back. Mine rusted so bad that the driver rear shock strut went straight through the strut tower and into the trunk! Had seen the rest of the body rust coming but never that part. Powershift posted:And i thought this was bad. This is a 2004 mazda 3, and the other side was just as bad. Dear God almighty, I am NEVER moving north of the Mason-Dixon. My 40+ year-old Cutlass has sat outside 90% of it's life as far as I know, and it looks 500% better than any of that (made in Lansing, but lived all it's life in Texas.) My worst problem is a swiss-cheesed drivers floor pan caused by a formerly-leaky windshield. Salt is an abomination before the automotive gods, and should be punishable by making the dingleberries that mandate it's use forever drive 20-year-old Northern winter beaters year-round, forever.
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Mar 23, 2014 12:16
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nm posted:I am so glad I live in California. Yes, usually around the front of the rear wheel well is bad. I was going to get a wagon or hatch with the v6 but they were all bad. Mazda has some serious quality issues with rust/paint. No other brand new cars are even close to that bad.
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Mar 23, 2014 13:27
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nm posted:I am so glad I live in California. Everything in the rust belt will have rust issues eventually. Of course things like regularly washing your car, keeping it in a heated garage, will prevent it for a while. Wheel arches rust first because tires pick up and fling rocks and salt at them all winter long scratching through the paint and letting the glory that is oxidation begin.
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Mar 23, 2014 13:58
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Ulfhednar posted:
Someone got lazy on his fuel/oil connections 
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Mar 23, 2014 14:57
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Preoptopus posted:Everything in the rust belt will have rust issues eventually. Of course things like regularly washing your car, keeping it in a heated garage, will prevent it for a while. Wheel arches rust first because tires pick up and fling rocks and salt at them all winter long scratching through the paint and letting the glory that is oxidation begin. Heat speeds up chemical reactions. The worst cars I see are ones that were kept in heated garages and never washed, followed by ones that were kept in heated garages and not washed, then cars kept outside and washed, then kept outside and not washed. I will be adding extra drainage to mine as well as waxoyling the poo poo out of it once I rebuild the rockers. Once water and salt get into pinch seams and spotwelds and sit forever it is all over, the joints literally rot out from the inside. You can wash the outside all you want and it won't help you at all. I have seen spotweld joints between subframes and floors that look like a quilted comforter because the rust in between the layers makes them swell up with only the spotwelds pulling the two layers together.
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Mar 23, 2014 16:05
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kastein posted:Heat speeds up chemical reactions. The worst cars I see are ones that were kept in heated garages and never washed, followed by ones that were kept in heated garages and not washed, then cars kept outside and washed, then kept outside and not washed.
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Mar 23, 2014 16:09
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Ulfhednar posted:
That'd be the perfect time to get out of the car and walk slowly towards the camera while lighting a cigarette. (Opening riff from highway to hell plays)
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Mar 23, 2014 19:04
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Preoptopus posted:Everything in the rust belt will have rust issues eventually. Of course things like regularly washing your car, keeping it in a heated garage, will prevent it for a while. Wheel arches rust first because tires pick up and fling rocks and salt at them all winter long scratching through the paint and letting the glory that is oxidation begin. Except for audi a8s. Audi, even those made out of steel, are pretty drat rust resistant. They're like the opposite of hondas in the rust belt, the body is great and the drivetrain is hosed.
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Mar 23, 2014 21:33
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nm posted:Except for audi a8s. They galvanize the metal before painting, and do some other things.
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Mar 23, 2014 21:36
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Doesn't hurt that A8s are all-aluminium. I'm curious how much more expensive to insure that makes them, seeing as how it's so much harder to fix properly.
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Mar 23, 2014 21:42
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Frank Dillinger posted:Doesn't hurt that A8s are all-aluminium. I'm curious how much more expensive to insure that makes them, seeing as how it's so much harder to fix properly. A lot more expensive. A d2 is basically instantly totaled these days. CommieGIR posted:They galvanize the metal before painting, and do some other things. Exactly. I don't know why everyone else doesn't. I know it costs more, but it is really hurting mazda, I think. I think honda rot also still hurts midwestern honda sales. nm fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Mar 23, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 21:49
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Toyota seems to do okay, wife's 07 could be mistaken for new from the outside if it wasn't for the giant dent in the rear bumper from a hit and run.
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Mar 23, 2014 22:06
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nm posted:A lot more expensive. A d2 is basically instantly totaled these days. Toyota framerot hasn't seem to have hurt values too much, although "complete frame replacement" being a possible remedy shows why people love toyota in the first place.
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Mar 23, 2014 22:21
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The fact that the company did a recall that usually covers the frame really helps there, it is a costly repair otherwise. My aunt and uncle had one done, they ended up with free new brake lines gratis and had to pay for new shocks because they fell apart being removed. Then I did a new exhaust from the manifold flanges back, some new o2 sensors, they tossed new tires and brakes on it and it is basically good to go another 150k now. The cab and bed are rusting a bit, but that isn't really structural... Those exhaust manifolds were designed by a moron, or someone who never heard of rust. Jesus. Amusingly it has the same transmission under it (on an engine making 80-100hp more) as 87-01 cherokees with the 4.0 had. That was the weirdest feeling ever, looking up at the transmission and wondering why it looked so drat familiar  (This thread is the last place those transmissions belong. I've sent two to the scrapyard broken, but it took incredible abuse to do so. I've been trying to kill the one in my beater DD for four years now, thought it was dead in November but it was just out of fluid, then took it out still shifting firmly and running perfectly last weekend despite my best efforts. They are absolutely bulletproof.) kastein fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Mar 23, 2014 |
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Mar 23, 2014 22:36
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Man do I feel lucky driving an 02 civic in Ohio that came to me with zero rust. With semi-frequent washings it has gone through 2 winters now with no signs of visible rust, thought the suspension bolts are showing that road-grime look now. I will be happy if I get 5 good years out of it before I have to worry about rust damage. It is Ohio though, they poured the salt down this winter to the point where the roads were smothered in salt and the lines were barley visible.
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Mar 23, 2014 22:59
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kastein posted:The fact that the company did a recall that usually covers the frame really helps there, it is a costly repair otherwise. My aunt and uncle had one done, they ended up with free new brake lines gratis and had to pay for new shocks because they fell apart being removed. Then I did a new exhaust from the manifold flanges back, some new o2 sensors, they tossed new tires and brakes on it and it is basically good to go another 150k now. The cab and bed are rusting a bit, but that isn't really structural... FWIW the Toyota exhaust flange studs are designed to be disposable and are made of cheap lovely steel. The idea being they inevitably break/come out with the nut and you order a new set from Toyota and spin them in with an e-torx socket.
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Mar 24, 2014 00:07
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Slavvy posted:FWIW the Toyota exhaust flange studs are designed to be disposable and are made of cheap lovely steel. The idea being they inevitably break/come out with the nut and you order a new set from Toyota and spin them in with an e-torx socket. That's great in theory but the problem is that they are significantly harder than the flange they are screwed into and also loving snap off flush with it. Out of 6 studs, one unscrewed from the manifold along with the nut, one the nut came off properly, the other four broke off flush with it, but not flat. And there wasn't space to swing a hammer with a punch. Also they are loving flat steel plate flanges and if those retards had even had a modicum of decency they would have used the same awesome "two bolts spotwelded to a U-shaped piece of sheetmetal" setup they do for the exhaust and cat-con flanges. Those are badass, everything's through-bolts (aka lol who cares loving cut that poo poo off and replace it for $4.99) and stuck to piece of sheetmetal so you just slap it in place, mate the flanges up, and throw the nuts on - only one wrench needed. Done. Instead of that, I put myself through around 6 hours of lying on a gravel driveway in the hot sun using an electric hand drill to drill out the remains of hardened studs directly over myself, and ended up wearing drat near every searing hot fragment of metal that rained down from those accursed studs. gently caress toyota, sorry. kastein fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Mar 24, 2014 |
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Mar 24, 2014 00:47
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kastein posted:The fact that the company did a recall that usually covers the frame really helps there, it is a costly repair otherwise. My aunt and uncle had one done, they ended up with free new brake lines gratis and had to pay for new shocks because they fell apart being removed. Then I did a new exhaust from the manifold flanges back, some new o2 sensors, they tossed new tires and brakes on it and it is basically good to go another 150k now. The cab and bed are rusting a bit, but that isn't really structural... Bulletproof until the trans cooler in the radiator bursts and lethally injects coolant into your transmission. Of course, that's not the transmission's fault. The Jeep equivalent of the A340 is the AX15, right? My A340e keeps ticking right along after 230k miles with almost zero maintenance.
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Mar 24, 2014 02:05
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Took this video the other day but I'm not sure if it really shows what I was seeing Hoppin': http://youtu.be/9jEAQcK8W1A This truck had an axle that was hopping up and down very hard... Any idea what is happening?
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Mar 24, 2014 02:37
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BraveUlysses posted:Took this video the other day but I'm not sure if it really shows what I was seeing I was going to say worn shocks, but on a truck like that there might be a fault with the airbags
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Mar 24, 2014 02:42
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bandman posted:Bulletproof until the trans cooler in the radiator bursts and lethally injects coolant into your transmission. Of course, that's not the transmission's fault. The Jeep equivalent of the A340 is the AX15, right? My A340e keeps ticking right along after 230k miles with almost zero maintenance. Close. The jeep equivalent of the A340 is the AW4, the Toyota equivalent of the AX15 is the R-series, R150/151/154/156 etc. The Toyota W/G series are quite close to a Jeep AX5, as well. They share a lot of parts and you can build some impressively frankensteined transmissions out of them. 22re in a Jeep? Sure, possible with either an auto or a manual. 3vze in a Jeep? Don't you loving dare, but yeah, you can do it. 2uz-fe in a Jeep? Yup. Could put one in almost any RWD Dodge as long as you stick to a mantrans, too. Jeep 2.5, 4.0, or any mopar smallblock pattern engine in a Toyota? Yeah, start ordering out of the Toyota and Chrysler parts catalogs and you can make that happen. You could put a Jeep 2.8 common rail diesel in a Toyota, too, if you wanted to, with all factory parts between the engine and the transmission. Oh, the fact that you can put a Jeep 2.5 in a Toyota also means you can put a GM 3800 (with or without supercharger) in one as well, with all the same drat parts
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Mar 24, 2014 02:51
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With regards to the rust - I much rather deal with drive-train / engine issues than rust, buy new part, install and done... Nothing you can really do to a car once the frame and panels start rusting.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:02
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Deathreaper posted:With regards to the rust - I much rather deal with drive-train / engine issues than rust, buy new part, install and done... Nothing you can really do to a car once the frame and panels start rusting. At this point in my automotive life, i would love to be able to choose just one
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Mar 24, 2014 03:03
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kastein posted:Close. The jeep equivalent of the A340 is the AW4, the Toyota equivalent of the AX15 is the R-series, R150/151/154/156 etc. I just had mad dreams of putting a jeep diesel in my father's Toyota Camry and moving the 3vz-fe over to one of my friend's cherokee projects.
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Mar 24, 2014 03:04
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Careful, the 3vz-fe is quite different from the 3vz-e, I don't know if the bellhousing pattern is the same. And the 3vz-e is an awful engine so please don't put it in anything but the scrapmetal dumpster next to the 305s
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Mar 24, 2014 03:36
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Seriously, yes. Terrible, terrible lump of thirsty aenemic unreliable poo poo.
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Mar 24, 2014 04:27
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I couldn't help but snap this picture a few days ago after seeing the rusted out red Mazda3 at a local Starbucks. Looks like we got a few rusted out ones here! I hate uploading gigantic images from my iPad... dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Mar 24, 2014 |
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Mar 24, 2014 04:31
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As a southern california native, these rust photos are insane.
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Mar 24, 2014 04:46
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Apparently they forgot to rustproof around where the CHMSL is mounted, too. Took that photo ten days ago last time mazda rust issues were discussed, forgot to upload it.
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Mar 24, 2014 04:53
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I've literally never seen rust on a car, but then again I've never been further east (US wise) than Texas.
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Mar 24, 2014 04:55
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Well, we at least know why the Cougar Ace slowly continued to list.
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Mar 24, 2014 04:56
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nm posted:I don't know why everyone else doesn't. I know it costs more, but it is really hurting mazda, I think. I think honda rot also still hurts midwestern honda sales. Most people have no loving clue about cars and just go with things like "Honda is reliable!" or, better yet, "Japanese is reliable!" Or they'll say, "I'm buying American" = Big 3, no other thought put into it. And believe me, when you see automotive companies' purchasing departments squeezing for pennies from every car, it wouldn't surprise you at all. When the choice is between making a car that will last a long time and doesn't benefit the automaker at all in terms of sales numbers or spending a lot more money to make people have to buy a new car less often, which are they going to choose?
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Mar 24, 2014 04:57
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thelightguy posted:I just had mad dreams of putting a jeep diesel in my father's Toyota Camry and moving the 3vz-fe over to one of my friend's cherokee projects. My mad dream involved a TJ wrangler and a 1HD-FTE 4.2L turbo diesel from a landcruiser, but those use the massive H series gearboxes instead of the R series. The FTE motor in stock form will shred an R151F within 20K kms after an engine swap on a landcruiser
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Mar 24, 2014 11:25
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From my observations in nothing but salt and sand Sweden I'm willing to say that your Mazda Numeral series have had cheaper manufacturing than ours. Need mid 90's and older to spot any rust at all unless it's a disaster of a model or a reborn wreck, my mothers 20 year old 323 gets jack for cleaning and service but it's fresh compared to the Mazdas posted here.
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Mar 24, 2014 21:15
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Das Volk posted:Well, we at least know why the Cougar Ace slowly continued to list. Surely it would have rolled back, once the Mazdas below the waterline had finished dissolving.
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Mar 25, 2014 00:44
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