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I assume the N51 is not exempt so can someone tell me when I should proactively replace the GDCS in my 128i SULEV?
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Apr 7, 2014 06:00
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doogle posted:The reason I ask is there was a software update in ~early 2010 that primed the LPFP when you unlocked the car which solved some long cranking problems. Can you hear a fuel pump when you unlock the car? If you can hear it you will most likely need a new HPFP. I'm pretty sure the car has that software update...I've always heard the pump prime whenever I unlock the car. I know that the same warranty applies in Canada...I'm going to Vegas at the end of the month, I'll probably just dump the car off at the dealership beforehand and tell them they can goof around with it for a week and email me if it's anything not pump related, so I can take it somewhere without horrifying parts and labour.
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Apr 7, 2014 06:33
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Admirable Gusto posted:I assume the N51 is not exempt so can someone tell me when I should proactively replace the GDCS in my 128i SULEV? The N51 is essentially an N52, which usually has the water pump go somewhere between 80k and 120k. Mine was still fine at 110k on my 06, so mileage will vary. Pump and thermostat run $400 or so at online vendors, and you really ought to do both at the same time.
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Apr 7, 2014 14:27
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How long do fanclutches last? And who sells a good aftermarket one? I'm not paying $450+ for one from the dealer.
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Apr 7, 2014 20:44
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How long does a CPO car have to be in the shop before I should be worried? I took my 2008 335i because it was shuddering under heavy boost and going into limp mode, and the rear middle seat belt stays latched to the seatback (something they "fixed" last time the car was in the shop) It's been over 2 weeks now of them chasing electrical problems, replacing a DME and main power unit, tearing the car down front and back apparently and I'm getting pretty tired of waiting. They called last Friday saying it was ready, and when I asked if they looked at the seatbelt or turbo shuddering, they said they hadn't so they kept it over the weekend. Also, they got back to me today saying the seatbelt needs to be replaced, but that's not covered under warranty. They won't charge labor, but $127 for the part. Any advice? CPO runs out this year...
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Apr 7, 2014 21:06
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raej posted:How long does a CPO car have to be in the shop before I should be worried? I took my 2008 335i because it was shuddering under heavy boost and going into limp mode, and the rear middle seat belt stays latched to the seatback (something they "fixed" last time the car was in the shop) How many miles?
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Apr 7, 2014 21:08
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Tab8715 posted:How many miles? ~75k
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Apr 7, 2014 21:11
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The water pump on my N52 gave out right around 115k miles, if that helps at all. Cost me roughly $800 to get it and the thermostat replaced. Had it not been in the middle of that -25F cold snap we had, I would have tried doing it myself, but gently caress being in an unheated garage in that kind of cold.
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Apr 7, 2014 21:19
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Funzo posted:The water pump on my N52 gave out right around 115k miles, if that helps at all. Cost me roughly $800 to get it and the thermostat replaced. Had it not been in the middle of that -25F cold snap we had, I would have tried doing it myself, but gently caress being in an unheated garage in that kind of cold. The water pump going out was why I took it in about a month ago (and the seat belt) So that's all good...for now.
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Apr 7, 2014 21:27
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Ziploc posted:How long do fanclutches last? Seriouspost: Are you planning to make it a competitive street/STU autocross car at any point? If not, get an electric fan conversion kit. Mechanical fan is stupid and unreliable and could have done way more damage, like chuck a blade through your hood.
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Apr 7, 2014 22:26
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raej posted:~75k Based on reading e90post you are right at the mileage where lots of people need their intake valves walnut blasted.
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Apr 7, 2014 22:37
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Crustashio posted:Seriouspost: Are you planning to make it a competitive street/STU autocross car at any point? If not, get an electric fan conversion kit. Mechanical fan is stupid and unreliable and could have done way more damage, like chuck a blade through your hood. I haven't decided yet. What I was planning to do is run it in street for slalom and as-is for the local time attack series for a bit to see which class I'd want to move too. Also, if I do the conversion, I'd want to do it right and have the fan come on as needed. Though thinking about it, I may do the conversion anyway and just switch back if absolutely necessary. But for now, I'm replacing the fan to get back on the road. Are Amazon's 50$ fan clutches too good to be true? Or a last resort? For curiosity's sake. My question still stands.
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Apr 7, 2014 22:47
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Can't comment on fan clutches, but the electric fans are generally wired into the rad temp switches. You can actually do either one - low temp or high temp, and there are different sensors with different switchovers available. If done right it is basically factory. And as a bonus you can wire in a manual switch for cooling with the car off. I've got my kit waiting to go in when the car comes out of storage. The downside is that it is annoyingly not a street/ST legal mod. If you wanted to go back all you'd need to do is unplug the fan and remove it, the wiring won't affect anything.
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Apr 8, 2014 00:30
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I have no idea if my E46 touring has had the water pump/thermometer done in the past. No mechanic's mentioned it in the couple inspections/maintenances I've had done in the past year. I wonder if I should just preemptively do it at some point. Bavarian has a cooling system overhaul package that looks reasonable...
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Apr 8, 2014 00:31
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raej posted:I took my 2008 335i because it was shuddering under heavy boost and going into limp mode Mine had this problem a couple of years ago. IIRC it was a coil pack.
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Apr 8, 2014 00:51
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Crustashio posted:Can't comment on fan clutches, but the electric fans are generally wired into the rad temp switches. You can actually do either one - low temp or high temp, and there are different sensors with different switchovers available. If done right it is basically factory. And as a bonus you can wire in a manual switch for cooling with the car off. I've got my kit waiting to go in when the car comes out of storage. Where'd you get your kit? The ones with temp switches I've found need drilling/tapping for the water temp probe.
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Apr 8, 2014 01:05
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http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerworld-e36-3-series-electric-fan-conversion-kit-p1450.aspx It uses the OEM rad temp switches, you basically piggyback off the aux fan low/high switches. It requires splicing into the wiring harness, but it's pretty straightforward. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Apr 8, 2014 |
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Apr 8, 2014 01:09
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Crustashio posted:http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerworld-e36-3-series-electric-fan-conversion-kit-p1450.aspx The aux fan doesn't have two speeds does it? I don't really understand the low/high part of the switch.
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Apr 8, 2014 02:33
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It does. Low speed at the lower temp (or when a/c is on), high speed for the high temp.
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Apr 8, 2014 02:39
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Crustashio posted:http://store.bimmerworld.com/bimmerworld-e36-3-series-electric-fan-conversion-kit-p1450.aspx Buddy used this kit on his e36/7 M Roadie, worked great.
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Apr 8, 2014 02:40
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Crustashio posted:It does. Low speed at the lower temp (or when a/c is on), high speed for the high temp. So when completed, does the added fan do the same thing? Or kick on to a set speed when the high temp is hit? Ziploc fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Apr 8, 2014 |
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Apr 8, 2014 02:44
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mutata posted:I have no idea if my E46 touring has had the water pump/thermometer done in the past. No mechanic's mentioned it in the couple inspections/maintenances I've had done in the past year. I wonder if I should just preemptively do it at some point. Bavarian has a cooling system overhaul package that looks reasonable... If you don't know, then it's better to do it now than to be stranded on the side of the road when your (Insert lovely german plastic component) explodes.
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Apr 8, 2014 03:48
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Maybe an oddball question, but after a weird winter in Oregon, my '84 635 has a brake squeak and high-speed wobble. Thoughts on what a shop would / should charge for a front only OR a all brake disc and pads replacement job? Similarly, thoughts on a full exhaust replacement price, plus labor? Just considering some spring cleaning, I guess.
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Apr 8, 2014 04:51
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For all my fellow e36 owners with the inevitably blown mid-range speakers/crappy stereo. I just did a cheap upgrade that made riding in my car feel about 10 years newer. 1. Head unit: a great match with the dash lights and integrates a phone into the car. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X6600BT/Pioneer-DEH-X6600BT.html 2. Tweeters: $10 bucks http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AQ8NVW/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3. Midranges: $20 bucks http://www.parts-express.com/vifa-tc6fd00-04-2-full-range-paper-cone-woofer-4-ohm--264-1126 4. More door clips. 5. 16 gigs of music that flush mounts to the front of the radio. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FYNSZA/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There is another vifa speaker ($70/pair) that has been used on other bimmer boards but I haven't read of anyone using the one listed above. Those listed here drop in too with a little man handling ThirstyBuck fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Apr 8, 2014 |
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Apr 8, 2014 05:06
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SuperDucky posted:Buddy used this kit on his e36/7 M Roadie, worked great. I too used it, and it worked great for me. Couple things: - Don't use the straps to mount, pay the extra 10$ for the mounting kit. You'll need a hacksaw or sawzall but it's way better - The pictured fan is not what you get, you get a straight-blade fan.
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Apr 8, 2014 14:44
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16.5mm E39 M5 rear sway bar on its way to replace my stocker non-sport 530i 13mm noodle. It'll be nice to take some understeer out.
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Apr 8, 2014 15:15
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:16.5mm E39 M5 rear sway bar on its way to replace my stocker non-sport 530i 13mm noodle. It'll be nice to take some understeer out. For a largish car, you'll be impressed.
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Apr 8, 2014 16:37
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revmoo posted:I too used it, and it worked great for me. Couple things: What were you sawzalling? I got spal specific mounting brackets off eBay and have sheet metal screws to go into the lips on the stock radiator. If aftermarket radiator you'll probably have to figure out a solution. The spal fans are only single speed. If you wire it into the low, it will come on when the rad reaches that temp, and also when you turn on the A/C. If you wire it into the high side it comes on at the second setpoint and doesn't trigger with the A/C. I'm going to try it on the high side first. Right now I have the stock 88C thermostat with a 91/99 switch. Basically the fan should only come on when the stock aux fan comes on high. What I want to do is log the head temperature and then decide if I want to change out the temp switch/thermostat. I've been trying to wrap my head around what happens with everything but I think it only makes sense to look at it knowing the peak temps in the head. Otherwise its all just guessing, and I don't want to risk the peak temp getting near overheating temps. All I know is if the spal comes on, the radiator ouput temp is over 99C. I could wire it into the low side, but then with the A/C turned on and cruising on the highway I'm running the spal when I don't need to. So if you want to keep it simple, maybe just get the stock mech fan as it works well. I looked at the e46 logic but it relies on way more variables. I know lots of people just go with 80C thermostats and 80/88 switches but I don't want to overcool the motor either.
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Apr 8, 2014 19:30
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The bracket kit I bought had long metal brackets that you mount and then cut flush with the rad. BTW: I LOVED the fan delete mod, taking off from a stop felt a lot different without the fan hanging off the front of the engine.
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Apr 8, 2014 19:52
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I really want to put electric fans on both my E30s, but haven't yet. It looks like those kits would work just fine for my cars as well.
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Apr 8, 2014 20:03
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Can you do a manual override as well? That would have excellent advantages on super hot days.
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Apr 8, 2014 20:15
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Can you do a manual override as well? That would have excellent advantages on super hot days. Yes, you just need to splice into the control wire. Eventually I plan to wire in the manual switch and hook it into something OEM. I've got a pile of switches from my old 328 (ASC, heated seats, hi-fi, etc) so I'm hoping I can use one of those and put it in one of the blank spots. Would be handy for autoX on hot days when the car gets parked immediately after a run.
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Apr 8, 2014 21:06
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ThirstyBuck posted:For all my fellow e36 owners with the inevitably blown mid-range speakers/crappy stereo. Cheers for that! I have my balance running through my rear speakers the fronts are so haggard. It's been on my radar of poo poo to get done. Re: fan chat; my car has had the fan delete done so I have no idea how the PO went about it, the needle sticks top dead center so it's been done right I assume. When the winter was here and cold it took a LONG time to get up to temp. I think it's partially the reason my post cat o2 sensors need replacing.
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Apr 8, 2014 22:11
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As I posted in the Craigslist thread, I found this and have been trying to work out a time to go see it: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/4381790815.html Rather than continue to poo poo up the Craigslist thread, I figured I'd come poo poo up this thread with questions about the 1984 633CSi. Anyone here owned one? It looks great on the ad, the interior looks excellent and hopefully if it's been a CA car it shouldn't have the apparently common rust issues. I've also heard that the suspension bushings tend to wear out, but they seem to be cheap on rockauto... any other common problems? I'm hoping that since the ad mentions a specific shop, they'll either have service logs or I can just call the shop for info. I've been wanting to get a manual of some sort for a more-reliable daily driver type thing. The price on this is ok, but if you guys think I'll spend another $3000 in the first year with maintenance, I'll just go find a pickup or something. Any thoughts on the 633CSi at all are welcome, I've never owned a BMW before so everything about the brand is new to me.
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Apr 8, 2014 23:02
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I don't know about the car specifically, but that's god damned clean.
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Apr 8, 2014 23:03
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You're crazy if you want that for a daily driver. Even if it's reliable, you'd be thrashing a beautiful and rare classic. A fun weekend/hobby/project car, absolutely, but not a DD.
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Apr 8, 2014 23:04
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Guinness posted:You're crazy if you want that for a daily driver. Even if it's reliable, you'd be thrashing a beautiful and rare classic. unlike my current DD 
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Apr 8, 2014 23:07
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I'll give it that it's super clean, but I had always heard that the 633 wasn't particularly desirable, which might be reflected in the price. It's a big, surprisingly heavy (~3500 pounds) car with only 181 horsepower.
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Apr 8, 2014 23:09
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MrChips posted:I'll give it that it's super clean, but I had always heard that the 633 wasn't particularly desirable, which might be reflected in the price. It's a big, surprisingly heavy (~3500 pounds) car with only 181 horsepower. This particular instance also already has 150k miles on its beautiful and rare body, so it's not like it's been kept in a museum or anything.
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Apr 8, 2014 23:12
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Pham Nuwen posted:This particular instance also already has 150k miles on its beautiful and rare body, so it's not like it's been kept in a museum or anything. If it was an M635i then we might have some problems.
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Apr 8, 2014 23:14
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