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Onkyo TX-NR626 7.2 factory reconditioned is on woot today for $289.99. This a good buy for someone in the market that will mainly use it for movies or overkill?
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Apr 12, 2014 12:58
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Healy posted:Onkyo TX-NR626 7.2 factory reconditioned is on woot today for $289.99. This a good buy for someone in the market that will mainly use it for movies or overkill? Worth it.
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Apr 12, 2014 14:42
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I just picked up a pair of Primus 363s (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MCejUQucp4k/p_108P363BK/Infinity-Primus-P363.html) from Frys so I am now on the market for a receiver to power them. For the time being they will be used in stereo in a medium sized room, however in the future I will likely be getting a sub-woofer and some satellites. I don't listen at extreme volumes or anything, I'm mostly concerned with getting clean sound and adequate power to the drivers. Would the DENON AVR-1513 be capable enough? I don't need any fancy features, but if an extra $50-100 can get me a noticeable improvement I'm all ears.
Full Circle fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 17:26
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I originally posted something in the quick questions thread with my room layout, and some naive questions: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2389259&pagenumber=152#post427988976 I've been obsessing about how to wall mount decent fronts so I wanted listen to the on-wall speakers and see how they sounded. I ended up picking up these that were recently traded in: 3 Paradigm Cinema 330 (fronts & center) for $199 each 2 Paradigm ADP-190 for surrounds for $199 for the pair 2 LS-25 stands for $50 (were actually folded into the price of a pair of the 330's, probably not going to use them). So, $850 total. I haven't listened to these yet, but I was really impressed by the Cinema 200's that they had, and these are a step up feature wise. So, did I do good? My original price target was $1500 for speakers, so I have room to drop $600 - $700 for a sub that will be a good complement to the Paradigm's. I think I'd like a step up from the PSW-505 that's all the rage in the thread, unless it's really not worth it. The dealer showed me the Paradigm cinema series sub's, but I'm also starting to look at the internet dealer usual suspects. They seem to be at the $900 price point, but I see that SVS has some clearance items at around $500, Outlaw Audio has products in the $600-$700 range), and I saw on Craigslist a Definitive Technology SuperCube I for $625. I could use some guidance here, first for things to look for, secondly if the step-up is worth it. After that the next step is to find the right receiver. I want to step up from a Denon AVR-2800, but I want to make sure I can at least send digital audio to zone 2 ( same source as main is fine) with whatever I get. I'm researching the Marantz 5008-7008 (hopefully refurb), something in the Denon line, or the Yamaha Aventege AX-720 ($600) or RX-V575($500 at the dealer, could be cheaper). I'm not familiar with the Yamaha analog to the Audessey XT32 (which, without doing much research, I think I want) Edit: I think this wasn't a good choice, at least for the surrounds. The ADP-190s are dipoles, but I can only mount them on the back wall. Also, since I don't have a sub yet and something to calibrate them with, I'm concerned I can't really evaluate these within the 15 day grace period. The 330s are now set up in a 2.0 configuration and they're OK, but I've got all sorts of buyers regret that I rushed this. I should get a life. Jik Waffleson fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 20:56
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Nothing wrong with dipoles and they can be mounted anywhere a normal surround would go. Surrounds really aren't very important as far as type, size etc. Just keep them. They will be fine. For the subwoofer, if you want to get more serious than a single Polk 505, consider getting 2, 3, or 4 of them. Multiple subs is the key to even consistent bass response in a room. Put them mid wall or hide them in corners. 4 subs will give you 12db of headroom over a single one. If you're into woodworking at all you could go the DIY route and get twin 15 or 18" subwoofers. That's the best bang for the buck. If you want a single sub at the upper range of your budget I would look for a used Rythmik FV15 or an Epik Empire 15
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Apr 13, 2014 23:41
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jonathan posted:If you're into woodworking at all you could go the DIY route and get twin 15 or 18" subwoofers. That's the best bang for the buck. So much so. I've built two cabinets so far, both of which are fantastic for bass (on break gigging with one now) and as they are full range, I used them at my wedding reception. I put about $1400 into them, and they have blown away stops costing triple that as both bass cabs and PA mains. I'll be building a car sub this spring or summer, and will be building at least one home theater sub when we buy our house. There are many good cab designers out there, but I use Bill Fitzmaurice designs. I was able to do everything with a circular saw and a few pieces with a jigsaw, but a table saw will make my next build easier. It's pretty easy as long as you take your time and doubly check all measurements.
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Apr 14, 2014 01:27
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jonathan posted:If you're into woodworking at all you could go the DIY route and get twin 15 or 18" subwoofers. That's the best bang for the buck. In my situation, maybe for the basement home theater setup, but this is going into a living room. I got a "like new" PSW 505 from Amazon for $175. So, last question (hopefully). I've narrowed down to 3 receivers, all in the $550 - $600 price range, with some pros and cons) Onkyo TX-NR818 (+ MultEQ XT32 / - analog only zone 2 no Airplay) Denon-AVR-X3000 (+ digital zone 2 & video zone 2, - MultEQ XT Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A1020 (+ sound quality?, Airplay can go zone 2, s-video in (for that remaining VHS), more input / - analog & network only zone 2, YPAO RSC calibration) The Denon and Yamaha are $50 cheaper than the Onkyo, and I think the lack of Airplay and analog only zone 2 is going to rule out the 818. Being able to at least listen to the same source in both rooms is important. I can live with the Yamaha's zone 2 limits, since Airplay would work in zone 2. So, questions: Does the calibration matter software Is MultEQ XT32 going to make things sound much better than MultEQ XT or YPAO RSC? Is there a real difference between MultEQ XT and YPAO RSC that's going to matter in the long run? Other than that, is there anything I'm missing that would make one stand out over the others? I'm leaning Yamaha, and the price is awesome because it's a scratch and dent.
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Apr 14, 2014 12:17
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Really stupid question: I bought Yamaha RXV375BL - very nice. The front speakers I connected using the screw-in terminals, but I wanted to really use plugs:  So I bought: Monoprice 5 PAIRS High-Quality Copper Speaker Banana Plugs - Closed Screw Type  But they are just a bit too wide to fit in the holes. I then bought: Monoprice 5 PAIRS High-Quality Copper Speaker Closed Plugs - Pin Screw Type  And they fit looser than a hotdog in a hallway What should I have bought?
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Apr 14, 2014 14:04
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spog posted:So I bought: Monoprice 5 PAIRS High-Quality Copper Speaker Banana Plugs - Closed Screw Type Those are banana plugs, they're what you need. You may have to use a little force, but they should fit. quote:I then bought: Monoprice 5 PAIRS High-Quality Copper Speaker Closed Plugs - Pin Screw Type Those are meant for spring clamp speaker terminals, which suck rear end and basically aren't used on anything worth buying ever.
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Apr 14, 2014 14:12
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KozmoNaut posted:Those are banana plugs, they're what you need. You may have to use a little force, but they should fit. Sure? I can just about get the tip in, but I really worry that pushing any harder will result in the terminal getting pushed into the chassis.
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Apr 14, 2014 14:30
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Try unscrewing the terminal a little and see if that helps. Banana plugs for speaker wire tend to be rather tight. Is there any particular reason you want to use banana plugs? Unless you're unplugging and replugging often, bare wire gives the best and most secure connection.
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Apr 14, 2014 14:34
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KozmoNaut posted:Try unscrewing the terminal a little and see if that helps. Banana plugs for speaker wire tend to be rather tight. Because I assumed that plugs would give the best and most secure connection. I guess that was an incorrect assumption?
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Apr 14, 2014 14:57
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spog posted:Because I assumed that plugs would give the best and most secure connection. I guess that was an incorrect assumption? Yeah, bare stranded wire under compression in a screw fitting is a very low-resistance interface. The reason for banana plugs is for ease of use if you're constantly switching out amps and/or cables, and ostensibly to combat corrosion, which is why they're gold-plated. Doesn't make a lick of difference in my experience.
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Apr 14, 2014 15:37
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Hey guys. I'm looking for a nice 2.0 system (basically just like an old-school stereo) with an Apple hookup to stick in a kitchen, which would really act as a nice FM or Internet radio source in the center of my parents' house. I want it to have good sound quality, be reasonably priced, and look nice in a cocktail party setting, so I'm envisioning an understated system with some oomph to it still. Any suggestions? I could just look at the Amazon best-selling stereo section but I wanted to see if there was anything standout to you goon experts, since this is a long-term purchase. I put together our hodgepodge 5.1 TV room setup with some suggestions from the thread and it turned out really cool. 
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Apr 14, 2014 15:38
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KozmoNaut posted:The reason for banana plugs is for ease of use if you're constantly switching out amps and/or cables, Or even if you're not doing it constantly. I find them worth it even if I only have to fiddle with wires every other year. Michael Scott posted:I'm looking for a nice 2.0 system (basically just like an old-school stereo) with an Apple hookup to stick in a kitchen, which would really act as a nice FM or Internet radio source in the center of my parents' house. Define "reasonably priced". Maybe something from Tivoli Audio?
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Apr 14, 2014 15:58
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Jik Waffleson posted:In my situation, maybe for the basement home theater setup, but this is going into a living room. I got a "like new" PSW 505 from Amazon for $175. Where the hell are you finding an x3000 for that price? It's 900 bucks on Amazon. My x2000 should be delivered today, I may post initial impressions later this afternoon.
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Apr 14, 2014 16:14
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CaseFace McGee posted:Where the hell are you finding an x3000 for that price? It's 900 bucks on Amazon. Factory refurb: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx3000/denon-avr-x3000-7.2-4k-ultra-hd-networking-receiver-w/airplay/1.html
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Apr 14, 2014 16:16
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Hob_Gadling posted:Define "reasonably priced". Maybe something from Tivoli Audio? Their stuff looks cool! It's a little eccentric for my parents' tastes but I will definitely look through their products. I was thinking more conventional brands like Sony or Panasonic. I don't know why but it seems like a lot of Tivoli's products are now discontinued or out of stock, I hope they're not going under. Definitely asking my parents about this guy: http://www.tivoliaudio.com/products/ipod-players/iyiyi-stereo-system-silver-black.html It's $100 on their site but $250 on Amazon. I'll call Tivoli at some point and see if they can get me any deal. The feature set is exactly what I wanted. A nice centralized iPhone interface but it also has an FM radio so it can be quickly flipped to a station out of boredom. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 17:15
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Jik Waffleson posted:In my situation, maybe for the basement home theater setup, but this is going into a living room. I got a "like new" PSW 505 from Amazon for $175. I think the most noticeable difference with YPAO and Audyssey is YPAO doesn't necessarily do anything with the sub. I recall reading there are some versions that have it but it isn't as easy to figure out compared with Audyssey (or at least I just had a bitch of a time and gave up.) I believe until you get to Audyssey Pro you're really just getting more locations to take readings from.
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Apr 14, 2014 18:48
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CaseFace McGee posted:Where the hell are you finding an x3000 for that price? It's 900 bucks on Amazon. For non-refurb http://avscience.com (the people who run AVS Forums) have it for a really good price new, but you have to call them, they won't price over email or on the web. They have me looking really closely at the AVX-4000, with the MultEQ XT 32 (which can be had for under a grand). It's overkill, but's hopefully at least a 10 year purchase.
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Apr 14, 2014 20:26
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[/quote]KozmoNaut posted:Those are banana plugs, they're what you need. You may have to use a little force, but they should fit. When I got mine, 7/8 of them were fine but one of them just wouldn't go in. It definitely would have broken the back plate of the amp if I had forced it. Comparing it to the others it was just a tiny bit deformed, so I squeezed it a tiny bit narrower at the tip with a pair of pliers and it fit fine.
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Apr 14, 2014 22:15
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There's a clean Polk CS175i on craigslist for $50. It would work alright with my Polk RT800i fronts, but I'd rather get a 245 or 400 center channel. Trouble is, I haven't found those below a hundred in decent shape. If I can get this for 35, would it be worth it, or should I hold off?
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Apr 15, 2014 16:17
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Jik Waffleson posted:In my situation, maybe for the basement home theater setup, but this is going into a living room. I got a "like new" PSW 505 from Amazon for $175. Having the connections and zone options you want is probably more important that calibration. To narrow your choices choose connection, then zone options, then calibration and price. Of those models the 818 is the most capable as far as calibration, and amp section (ability to go loud without distortion and drive 4ohm speakers) The choice between audyssey xt and xt32 isn't a huge choice. Xt32 just has more resolution for making eq adjustments. FYI IMAX uses xt, not xt32. The choice between audyssey and pioneer mcacc or Yamaha ypao is a little greater, but not enough to go without features you want. The position of the subwoofer in the room has a much more drastic effect over sound quality than calibration.
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Apr 15, 2014 21:30
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Can anyone recommend reliable places to find bookshelf speaker stands? I've Googled a bit, but everything seems overpriced or a bit small for the RB-61ii speakers I have on order. Maybe I was just expecting see more of a selection than I'm finding on these sites.
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Apr 17, 2014 18:00
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the_tourist posted:Can anyone recommend reliable places to find bookshelf speaker stands? I've Googled a bit, but everything seems overpriced or a bit small for the RB-61ii speakers I have on order. Maybe I was just expecting see more of a selection than I'm finding on these sites. I have the Sanus Basic Foundations that I got from Amazon. They were the cheapest decent looking ones I could find. How high do they need to be? For the most part, anything designed to be a speaker stand is going to be over priced. If you're handy at all, you could make your own for the price of lumber and spray paint. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-4-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-2-Pressure-Treated-Timber-256276/100066791?N=5yc1vZbym5 + http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-in-x-6-in-x-2-ft-Common-Board-235254/204852257?N=5yc1vZbqmcZ1z0tm9p + http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-1-in-x-12-in-x-2-ft-Common-Board-235252/204852226?N=5yc1vZbqmcZ1z0tm9p = 
KillHour fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 20:16
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In the same vein, I made some stands similiar to these: http://www.instructables.com/id/PVC-and-Plywood-Speaker-Stands-for-Cheap/ And they work well. If you can get your hands on some decent wood it even looks quite nice, and the sand makes them extremely stable and dense.
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Apr 17, 2014 21:55
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I should have checked here before pulling the trigger (thank god for return policies...) Whole-home audio. Basically, what started off as "I need a new alarm clock" became "What alarm clock has the best sound" which became "I might as well get good speakers for the bedroom" which then became "I'd like music in the kitchen too..." So now I'm down the rabbit hole. Today I bought a Sonos Bridge and Play 1 - and so far, wow! The controller software does a heck of a lot and it was quick and simple to set up... and it sounds great. The problem: It's its own proprietary wireless network - if I want to play music through my A/V receiver (Marantz 1403), I need a Sonos Connect ($350) - might as well finally build that HTPC I've wanted for a while now. If I want music out of my computer to be the same as what's on the other speakers (um, yes), I need to upgrade to the $400 Play3 that has a Line In (the Play 1 doesn't). I was able to create a ShoutCAST station via winamp and get it synced up, but after 45 mins it was off and it's tough to keep it in sync. So - not an option  So all of this has led to to think - is a better solution some AirPlay speakers (or an airport express with regular speakers...), as well as upgrading to an AirPlay-capable receiver? And with that option, would I need to do everything via my computer or could it be controlled by Apps? Does anyone have experience with this kinda thing? I don't even know where to start - the Sonos sounds great, but for the $300 it cost it feels a bit limited.
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Apr 19, 2014 23:56
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Any interest in a DefTech 600 set and Sony DN840 if I add them to my SA Mart thread? I was going to sell them locally but the dude backed out. Great condition, using them right now actually, just need to get rid of stuff before I go overseas.
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Apr 21, 2014 08:48
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I received my new TV, speakers, sub, and receiver. I'm trying to set them up and it seems like the sub is not active. The receiver is a Denon AVR-E300, with front speakers and a sub connected currently. I am going to dig into the digital manual here in a little while but if anybody has this sub or has any idea what might be wrong, let me know. If I go into the Tone Test in the settings I can hear the sub making a low rumble, but when I play music through the Spotify Internet Radio setting on the receiver there doesn't seem to be anything coming from it. When I press Info on the remote it shows Front Right and Front Left as the only Active Speakers.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:19
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GOONS ARE MEAN
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I'm not familiar with Denon, but do you have whatever crossover there is setup? Are you in 2 Ch mode? There's some setting you are missing somewhere.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:33
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I changed the speaker settings to "small", apparently they were set as "large" which makes them handle the lows and not hand over to the sub? I don't know, I set them to "small" and switched sound settings around and the sub seems to be working now. I was getting some intermittent flickering on my PS3 and went into the PS3 and did the video setup again and it seems to have gone away, guess I will keep an eye on it.
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Apr 23, 2014 00:29
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sighnoceros posted:I changed the speaker settings to "small", apparently they were set as "large" which makes them handle the lows and not hand over to the sub? I don't know, I set them to "small" and switched sound settings around and the sub seems to be working now. I was getting some intermittent flickering on my PS3 and went into the PS3 and did the video setup again and it seems to have gone away, guess I will keep an eye on it. With Spotify and other music sources, the source material is only 2 channels - let and right. Without a dedicated sub channel, it may not send any signal to the sub unless you force it to, like you did with the speaker size. Trouble is, now it won't send any lows to the mains, so you may be missing midbass now. Try messing with the music modes - "jazz hall" and stuff like that - that might send signals to the sub while still letting the mains be set to Large. Can't test on my Denon, as my sub is boxed up for my neighbor's sake. E: was your PS3 flickering for Netflix or other streaming? My smart TV flickers when switching between different HD bitrates, but it usually stabilizes once the stream has buffered for a minute or so. The Science Goy fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 01:16
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sighnoceros posted:I changed the speaker settings to "small", apparently they were set as "large" which makes them handle the lows and not hand over to the sub? I don't know, I set them to "small" and switched sound settings around and the sub seems to be working now. I was getting some intermittent flickering on my PS3 and went into the PS3 and did the video setup again and it seems to have gone away, guess I will keep an eye on it. "Large" tells the receiver that your speakers have integrated woofers, and disables the internal crossover (and hence disables the subwoofer). There may be a "double bass" option to allow you to run a sub with full-range speakers, but the speakers you have should be set to "small". Large is for something like this:  CaseFace McGee posted:With Spotify and other music sources, the source material is only 2 channels - let and right. Without a dedicated sub channel, it may not send any signal to the sub unless you force it to, like you did with the speaker size. Trouble is, now it won't send any lows to the mains, so you may be missing midbass now. Try messing with the music modes - "jazz hall" and stuff like that - that might send signals to the sub while still letting the mains be set to Large. Can't test on my Denon, as my sub is boxed up for my neighbor's sake. He should be fine as long as he sets the crossover properly. 80hz should be fine for those Pioneers and the BIC. Edit: Make sure you have the crossover on the sub set as high as possible. The receiver should be handling the crossover, and you don't want the sub's to interfere. KillHour fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 01:21
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My sub has a "Digital Dolby Receiver" or something setting that says it disregards the sub's crossover setting. I set it up as high as possible anyway. Everything I've been reading online for Denon says the speakers should pretty much always be set to Small, even floor standing ones like mine. Sub seems to be working with Spotify and with Cable and HBO Go on PS3. I'm not sure what sound setting I should have it on (Movie, Music, Game, Pure), the only difference I can tell off-hand is that Pure seems to disable the sub. Yeah, it was flickering during streaming HBO Go, both audio and video were cutting out for a split second at a time. When I first plugged it in and switched to the PS3 in the XMB it actually cut to saying "No Source Detected" or whatever on my TV, when I switched sources to the set top box and back to the PS3 it worked though.
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Apr 23, 2014 02:08
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 Just thought I'd post my audio system; can't remember if I got help from this thread years ago or from somewhere else, but it's lasted me about three years and I've never regretted a single part (even the Boxee). Bonus dogge.
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Apr 23, 2014 03:55
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sighnoceros posted:My sub has a "Digital Dolby Receiver" or something setting that says it disregards the sub's crossover setting. I set it up as high as possible anyway. I have the E300, and the Pioneer FS-22 system with a Polk PSW10 sub. I have all speakers set to small and the crossover on all of them manually set to 80 Hz. The distances and levels were set with the calibration mic and I left that as is. I use the Movie quick setting on the remote for movies and tv. If you're getting a 5 channel signal then no matter what mode you have selected, it should automatically send a 5 channel signal to the speakers properly. I tested this by listening to music with the Music channel setting then watching a movie on HBO Go (both done on Apple TV). The audio came through properly as 5 channels. I haven't used Game, so I can't speak for that, but yes Pure will just send whatever signal you are getting and use only that (which is why using it for music just gives you the 2 channels and not 2.1 because it's not doing any work and sending the low frequencies to the sub). I just played around with it until I found everything to be where I wanted it, I suggest doing the same. I also like to listen to music with the PL II 5.1 channel setting too sometimes if I'm feeling gimmicky (hold down on the Music button to change them). It's cool every now and then, but it really is just a novelty and I wouldn't recommend listening to music that way. It is good for parties though.
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Apr 23, 2014 04:51
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CaseFace McGee posted:So much so. I've built two cabinets so far, both of which are fantastic for bass (on break gigging with one now) and as they are full range, I used them at my wedding reception. I put about $1400 into them, and they have blown away stops costing triple that as both bass cabs and PA mains. I'll be building a car sub this spring or summer, and will be building at least one home theater sub when we buy our house. What have you put together? I've got 4x OT12s, 2x T39s, 2x T60s aaaaaaaaaaaaand a table tuba until I get off my arse and build a THT.
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Apr 23, 2014 15:15
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88h88 posted:What have you put together? Omni 212 full range loaded with Basslites and a compression drive tweeter, Jack 10 with a Deltalite and a six tweeter array. I'm building an AT for my car, 1x8 but haven't finalized the width or driver yet. I am planning to build a woofer-only Jack to daisy chain with the other one, and either a TT or THT for home theater when we buy a house. I need to take apart the Omni again too, the drivers have so much excursion that I get baffle slap at high volume, even though I shaved down the surround after the first coat of Duratex. Once that's done, my low B will be unstoppable 
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Apr 23, 2014 16:16
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And I thought my "behind the front door" setup was unconventional. Still waiting for a decent deal on a Sony HT-CT260H or Pioneer SP-SB23W sound bar. Future Shop is gouging hilariously on the former, and the latter is nigh inexistent in Canada. What's a decent price watch website for Canada?
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Apr 23, 2014 17:52
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In case anyone cares: I ended up getting two Pioneer A4's while they were on sale (they're being discontinued - $150 CAD at Future Shop, on sale). With iTunes, AirPlay, and Retune, I get perfectly synced whole-house audio with my Samsung Galaxy Nexus for a remote. So much easier/better/cheaper than Sonos, and the sound on the A4's is amazing - the only thing they're missing is the ability to stereo-pair two of them in a single room. Oh well!
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Apr 24, 2014 03:06
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