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leica posted:The way I look at it is if you have a tan/saddle interior, you should have a tan/saddle top. This is what I am thinking. Still a bit on the fence but I may just go with the stock color since I swore I wasn't modding this car.
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Apr 14, 2014 19:21
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leica posted:Black and Tan is one of the best Miata color combos ever. 95M is the best, followed closely by BRG. Lies. 10AE Blue is the best 
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Apr 14, 2014 19:53
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Too much blue, it's blue overkill.
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Apr 15, 2014 03:21
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Nope, no such thing.
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Apr 15, 2014 05:38
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Tanz-Kommandant posted:Nope, no such thing.  (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Apr 15, 2014 05:47
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Here's a pretty good deal on one of those, with hardtop even, but pre-tenderized for you.   http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/city-of-toronto/1999-mazda-mazdaspeed-mx-5-miata-convertible/581919372?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
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Apr 15, 2014 06:04
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Bet that's sold within a few days or less. That's not a lot of body work required (and it looks like just body work). That's an $7-9K car in ontario once the bumpers fixed if it's in good shape otherwise (it looks like it is) and you're willing to wait for a buyer who cares about the 10AE stuff. Also that blue is the best colour.
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Apr 15, 2014 13:54
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There's worse pictures on Autotrader. I've been scanning them daily. I'm pretty sure it spun and hit the back and the front ends. I'd bet there's a lot worse underneath. 
Sudden Infant Def Syndrome fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 15:06
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Yup that looks like it kissed a Jersey barrier. Still though, if the title is clean...
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Apr 15, 2014 16:37
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Oops. I'm phone posting, didn't see more than bumper damage.
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Apr 15, 2014 16:54
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Would broken tie rod ends cause a clunking noise on weight transfers (say, setting off from a stop) and certain steering inputs? The boots on mine are really torn and I suspect damage, but everything seems rock solid in the suspension and safe to drive but makes annoying clunks. I'm looking at R package ends for $130 or so, is this a worthwhile update on a lowered car? MattD1zzl3 fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 20:49
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Checked the tread on the Potenza RE50As that the Miata had on when I got it (probably stock) - inside and middle depths are good, around 8/32nds, outside edge not so much. Worst is at around 4/32nds. Checked the pressures and all were around 23 PSI, despite only sitting for around 30 minutes after getting fully up to temp. Put them all to 30PSI, hope that'll slow down the wear a bit. I've run the Continental ExtremeContact DW on another car, anyone have experience with those on an NC? The price is a lot nicer than putting another set of RE05A back on - $99/tire vs $177.
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Apr 16, 2014 02:10
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Bovril Delight posted:
I ran a set of DW on my 08 w/sport suspension and highly recommend. They are very light weight, and grip extremely well wet or dry. Their drawback - they have soft sidewalls, so expect a hair more tuck in corners. It doesn't affect the overall performance, just an observation. On the plus side, you get a little better impact absorption and notably less road noise. In my opinion they're in the sweet spot of performance, comfort, and price for a NC.
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Apr 16, 2014 02:18
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I have a few friends in the tire industry and they are all really big fans of the BFG Sport Comp 2 right now. Ive never driven on DWs but my room mates sport comp 2s are pretty awesome.
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Apr 16, 2014 02:33
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Goober Peas posted:I ran a set of DW on my 08 w/sport suspension and highly recommend. They are very light weight, and grip extremely well wet or dry. Their drawback - they have soft sidewalls, so expect a hair more tuck in corners. It doesn't affect the overall performance, just an observation. On the plus side, you get a little better impact absorption and notably less road noise. In my opinion they're in the sweet spot of performance, comfort, and price for a NC. Sadi posted:I have a few friends in the tire industry and they are all really big fans of the BFG Sport Comp 2 right now. Ive never driven on DWs but my room mates sport comp 2s are pretty awesome. Thanks guys. Both of these are pretty reasonably priced so I'll do my research while I burn these up.
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Apr 16, 2014 04:17
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RE050As aren't bad per se, but they were the OEM tire on the first gen MS3 back in 2007. They're one of the older tires on the market and just aren't worth the money that they apparently still command.
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Apr 16, 2014 05:33
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I didn't really like my steering wheel... so I got a new one! Before:  After: 
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Apr 16, 2014 06:32
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That looks nice. How hard was it to swap and where did you pick it up?
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Apr 16, 2014 13:54
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I just ordered one of those cheapo shift boot and e-brake boot kits from topgaiters on eBay. Pretty excited to have a non-torn-up interior. I might even be more excited about that than the Rivals coming in the mail.
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Apr 16, 2014 14:16
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ND Chassis
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Apr 16, 2014 15:18
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The rear looks a bit more beefy, but that's about the same as the NC, isn't it?
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Apr 16, 2014 16:23
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Would broken tie rod ends cause a clunking noise on weight transfers (say, setting off from a stop) and certain steering inputs? The boots on mine are really torn and I suspect damage, but everything seems rock solid in the suspension and safe to drive but makes annoying clunks. If your tie rods are toast, replace them with the 93LE/R package ones. When was the last time you replaced your eccentrics?
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Apr 16, 2014 18:02
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Bovril Delight posted:That looks nice. How hard was it to swap and where did you pick it up?  I got the steering wheel from a guy named "guardian" on the miata forums. He custom makes these to whatever reasonable spec you want.
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Apr 16, 2014 18:11
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GOD IS BED posted:The rear looks a bit more beefy, but that's about the same as the NC, isn't it? Overall weight savings on the car is supposed to be around 220 pounds. Anyone with a better eye for the Skyactiv got an idea on what that engine is? Intake manifold looks crazy, the TB is above the alternator but the runners seem to go down behind the alt. Also looks like that might be an electrically-assisted power steering rack, seems awfully large for a hydraulic unit. Is that the water pump chilling on its own V-belt behind the serpentine for the alt and compressor?
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Apr 16, 2014 18:40
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Here's a larger resolution image of the chassis, if anybody wants to take a closer look at it. http://i.imgur.com/jXpUfx7.jpg
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Apr 16, 2014 18:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Overall weight savings on the car is supposed to be around 220 pounds. I wouldn't put too much faith in hard numbers from journos, they've been everywhere and they change whenever there's a new press release. HOWEVER, I'm going to be a true believer and say that the 100kg figure is right... And the curb on the NC is 2450 to 2542 lbs... So that's NA weight with some groceries in the trunk. The engine is the Skyactiv G 2.0L. It might have different internals much like the MZR in the NC. Definitely is going to have electric steering. Your throttle body and intake runner analysis is spot on, it's an interesting solution for getting some crazy long intake runner length. They also changed up the rear suspension setup. The NC top hat allows for the shock body to travel past the top hat, the ND looks like a more conventional coilover set up. More than a few people have put forth the hypothesis that the ND is going to be revealed at Mazda Speedway Laguna Seca in September when they have the Miatas at Laguna event. Also also also, the tires are on the wrong way or... Mid engine Miata? Mid/rear engine with FWD and rear steering? Phone fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 16, 2014 18:55
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I've been so excited for the ND launch for way too long now. It really can't come soon enough. I just hope it isn't a let down.
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Apr 16, 2014 20:47
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Phone posted:... Has the rear been multilink since ND or did they change that now too? And what might be the reason for this change? Just wondering from the "not broken" perspective... Also, I'm not seeing any tires there  Edit: they must've finally created the flying car!
mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 09:55
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At least it has a yellow dipstick. Speed and class.
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Apr 17, 2014 13:04
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Hopefully it's reinforced to prevent snapping off like a twig 
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Apr 17, 2014 17:36
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leica posted:Hopefully it's reinforced to prevent snapping off like a twig Did I not tell everyone about the success I had with dipping mine in a few coats of polyurethane epoxy? Thing is stronger than it was when original at this point .
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Apr 17, 2014 19:46
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Good news everyone! There's also (unsurprisingly) going to be a 25th anniversary Miata! It really should've been an ND, but I have to admit that it at least looks quite nice.
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Apr 17, 2014 19:52
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The colour is fantastic.
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Apr 17, 2014 19:57
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Beach Bum posted:Did I not tell everyone about the success I had with dipping mine in a few coats of polyurethane epoxy? Thing is stronger than it was when original at this point What, how, pics?
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Apr 17, 2014 21:16
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iv46vi posted:What, how, pics? Unfortunately it was on my first Miata and I donated it to a fellow owner who now lives across the country. He tells me that it is still very much intact and he no longer fears breaking it. He DID say that he got too comfortable with it and broke some other poor bastards dipstick Basically, you mix up a batch of epoxy into a jar and then you paint the dipstick. You want to get a thin epoxy that has not been thickened like such as the stuff you usually find at most auto parts stores. When you finish each coat be sure to have a small jar of solvent around to keep your brush from getting ruined. You will have to make a new batch for each coat you want to apply so try to keep the batch sizes just big enough to get a good coat on the plastic bit. You really want to focus on the point on the stem just above the joint, where they always break. When I got done with mine there was actually a kind of "ramp" from the base up to the main part of the stem a few mm up. I had bought the unbroken dipstick from Mazda, so I was able to leave the broken one in the car for driving about.
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Apr 18, 2014 06:25
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Had my buddy run up to get a black non-defrost hardtop for me from the other large city in my province. The seller wanted $500, but broke the rear Frankenstein bolt latch off removing it from the car so took $400 for it. I'm pretty pleased. I have both halves of the rear latch, maybe it can be welded (or jb-welded ) together but if not I know the Spec Miata guys don't use the rear latches anyway. I'll post some pictures once I get it so we can all argue over whether it can be fixed.
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Apr 20, 2014 05:50
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It's going to be a rattling motherfucker if you don't use every latch. It doesn't seem like a big deal now but it will eventually drive you insane, one of my biggest pet peeves about hard tops is chasing rattles.
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Apr 20, 2014 06:23
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drat it. Maybe I can get it welded back together then. My old miata had a soft top delete and the rattles were inaudible over the deafening exhaust and disintegrating drivetrain.
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Apr 20, 2014 06:33
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Do you have the side latches for the hardtop? They can help quite a bit.
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Apr 20, 2014 06:44
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Seat Safety Switch posted:drat it. Maybe I can get it welded back together then. There's another thread linked off of there with details of one guy who did a repair. Also is yours an OEM top or a SnugTop?
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Apr 20, 2014 06:46
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