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Check it over with a multimeter. With the key off, at the battery terminals, a good battery should be around 12.6v DC. If it's been sitting overnight, and it's lower than maybe 12.4v, it's probably toast. Turning the key to on will lower voltage, this is normal, but again if voltage dips below about 11v the battery is likely junk. If you happen to watch volts while cranking and they get below about 10v, battery's toast. For a modern bike, after you crank it (or jump it), you should have 13ish VDC at the terminals, rising to the low-mid 14s as you rev to about 4-6k - if you don't, there's an issue with your regulator, your stator, or the wiring in between the battery and them somewhere. If you find a forum for your specific model (you have an SV, right?) there's almost always some variant of 'charging problems and troubleshooting' thread stickied at the top.
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Apr 21, 2014 05:32
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Somewhat of a side-track... I'm looking for insurance policies now for my interim learning tool and I have no idea what the gently caress. This is one of the lowest I've been able to quote up with liability and comp&collision-- from Progressive. Does it look reasonable or way out of whack?
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Apr 21, 2014 06:13
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Seems ok enough for comp/collision for a new rider. A bit on the expensive side, but...new rider, so figure it's going to balance out. Dunno if they're going to pay out enough to make it worth it with a 1k deductable though.
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Apr 21, 2014 06:39
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vwman18 posted:Yeah that's what I figured. Any suggestions on tires? I don't think I'll be getting the same Dunlop that's there now. I bought this bike a year ago, that tire was practically new. What you see here is about 4000 miles of wear. I replaced the stock Dunlop'son my Marauder with Metzler ME880's, they're a little pricey, but they're nice and sticky, have a "sport" profile which helps quicken up steering a little, and at ~3000 miles they show very little tread wear.
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Apr 21, 2014 06:50
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Razzled posted:Somewhat of a side-track... I'm looking for insurance policies now for my interim learning tool and I have no idea what the gently caress. That's roughly what I'm getting and paying through progressive. My bike's a bit more expensive and downtown Chicago is, I think, a more risky city, but I think my deductibles are higher. Progressive was very nice the one time I ever had a claim with them. It worked out that the cost to total my bike was the same as my deductible, so they waived the deductible (although I'm sure just cutting a $500 check was easier than making an adjustor spend one more second thinking about the situation). A+ would insure through again (and did).
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Apr 21, 2014 07:10
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The 1k deductible on collision I figure was mostly in case someone decides to run over my bike for whatever reason. It's not worth a whole lot (my friend is giving it to me for 1k) but I wouldn't be able to replace it easily for the price I'm getting for it. Initially I had set it up with no collision coverage but that seemed... too brave
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Apr 21, 2014 13:29
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So, I've got some leaking from the threads on the master cylinder bleed screw on my bike, I assume after overtightening the screw at some point. I've tried sanding the sealing surface of the bleed screw smooth again (was slightly marked, didn't seem grossly deformed though), but this has made things much worse, from a slow seep to a much less slow leaking. I will purchase a new bleed screw shortly, but if this does not fix the issue, is there anything I can do to the master cylinder sealing surface or am I in for a certain replacement of the master cylinder? I can't find a counter sink small enough to fit in the hole, not that I have a milling machine or even a drill press to ensure that it'd be square anyway.
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Apr 21, 2014 14:21
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Not the most noteworthy, but thought I'd update: tracked down the metallic chirpy noise my bike was making, seems to be the tank vibrating against part of the frame. Squeezing it really tight with my knees will shut it up, gonna mess around with it when I get a chance hopefully later in the week. Last time my bike was in the shop, my mechanic mentioned the rear bearings could use replacing (as a kind of "this isn't critical, you've already had a couple hundred bucks worth of work done so I figured I'd leave it alone for now" kind of thing). My friend said his normal course of action would be to just replace the whole wheel rather than mess with the bearings for almost the same cost, but I have a brand new tire on it, so he said I'd be better off getting the bearing done. Does this sound about right?
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Apr 21, 2014 14:26
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Pompous Rhombus posted:My friend said his normal course of action would be to just replace the whole wheel rather than mess with the bearings Wha? That seems excessive. Is this a bike for which there are shitloads of second hand wheels available or something?
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Apr 21, 2014 14:33
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Even so, a second hand wheel might have lovely bearings. A new bearing set is, what, like $50 + an hour's labor = $150 or so? You'd be hard pressed to find a new wheel for that much, and even so, I have no idea if new wheels come with bearings.
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Apr 21, 2014 15:02
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tzam posted:So, I've got some leaking from the threads on the master cylinder bleed screw on my bike, I assume after overtightening the screw at some point. I've tried sanding the sealing surface of the bleed screw smooth again (was slightly marked, didn't seem grossly deformed though), but this has made things much worse, from a slow seep to a much less slow leaking. I will purchase a new bleed screw shortly, but if this does not fix the issue, is there anything I can do to the master cylinder sealing surface or am I in for a certain replacement of the master cylinder? I can't find a counter sink small enough to fit in the hole, not that I have a milling machine or even a drill press to ensure that it'd be square anyway. Did you install a crush washer on it? Are the crush washers large enough to take up the slack if you swapped banjo bolts? I dunno why you wouldnt just replace the bearings. A nice slide hammer is $80-100, bearings are 20 bucks, and you can spend some cash on a seal driver or just use a socket if you don't want to spend more. Toss the new bearings in the freezer for 12 hours before you install them and youre good to go. Z3n fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Apr 21, 2014 |
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Apr 21, 2014 15:26
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Pompous Rhombus posted:My friend said his normal course of action would be to just replace the whole wheel rather than mess with the bearings for almost the same cost, but I have a brand new tire on it, so he said I'd be better off getting the bearing done.
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Apr 21, 2014 15:30
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So I'm in a bit of a tough spot with the '85 xl100s I'm fixing up. The speedometer is busted (needle jumps from 0-10, odometer works fine) and the part itself is unavailable. The options seem to be A) find a used one (none available locally sadly) B) buy a new 'reproduction' one off of eBay Has anyone had any experience with the knockoffs from eBay? Is there some kind of more trustworthy generic alternative?
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Apr 21, 2014 16:42
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Is hooking up a 12 volt socket as simple as buying one and splicing it in?
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Apr 21, 2014 19:16
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Mostly. It can get more complicated if you want a regulated 12V or something, but yeah, splice that sucker in.
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Apr 21, 2014 19:17
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Yeah, if all you want is the round cigar lighter socket, just splice it into the line wherever. This will be fine for charging your phone etc. as long as you use a proper 12v car charger, because the charger has protection circuits and TVS diodes and all the other stuff that is necessary to defend your delicate electronics from what I've heard described as "the electrical supply from hell." Vehicle 12v lines could be as low as 8 volts from time to time with spikes up to a few hundred, forwards and backwards at random intervals. So don't just plug your stuff directly into it.
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Apr 21, 2014 19:31
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aehiilrs posted:So I'm in a bit of a tough spot with the '85 xl100s I'm fixing up. Might just need to lube the cable.
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Apr 21, 2014 20:11
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I hadn't even thought of that. Thanks!
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Apr 21, 2014 20:19
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astrollinthepork posted:Is hooking up a 12 volt socket as simple as buying one and splicing it in? You really want a fuse somewhere in there, on the hot wire side. The easiest way is to get a fused battery tender line and then a 12v socket that plugs into the line's quick disconnect. You can always splice into a hot line downstream of the existing fuse, but make sure whatever you're running isn't drawing too much current (this isn't likely if you're just, say, powering a phone.)
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Apr 21, 2014 21:45
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Razzled posted:The 1k deductible on collision I figure was mostly in case someone decides to run over my bike for whatever reason. It's not worth a whole lot (my friend is giving it to me for 1k) but I wouldn't be able to replace it easily for the price I'm getting for it. Initially I had set it up with no collision coverage but that seemed... too brave You may want to pass this scenario past your insurance co, depending on if the person who hits your bike owns up to it or flees, you're probably covered by either their insurance or your own uninsured/underinsured part of the policy. I can never remember what goes into comprehensive and what goes into collision so I can't say if it's an issue if you hit someone or not.
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Apr 21, 2014 21:49
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Snowdens Secret posted:You really want a fuse somewhere in there, on the hot wire side. The easiest way is to get a fused battery tender line and then a 12v socket that plugs into the line's quick disconnect. Just put in a separate line off the battery, eyelet crimps are stupid cheap (as are waterproof fuseholders).
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Apr 21, 2014 21:56
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So my GSX-R 600 track bike's got the brake MC recall out on it. I'm guessing there's no way to get the replacement MC for free (let alone have the work done free) when I don't have a title right?
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Apr 21, 2014 22:25
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Speaking as a mechanic, that's news to me. Unless it's some really weird bike with weird wheels. We do wheel bearings all the time, it's no big deal. Safety Dance posted:Even so, a second hand wheel might have lovely bearings. He meant like a secondhand one, but yeah, that is a concern. I miiight go that route if I was in it to win it with the current bike (wouldn't mind a second set of wheels with knobbies for occasional off road use), but I'm selling it/moving in a few months. Here4DaGangBang posted:Wha? That seems excessive. Is this a bike for which there are shitloads of second hand wheels available or something? Dunno, it's a 22 year old Honda. Not sure how specific wheels are to a bike, but it's actually kind of a pain in the rear end to find spares here, lots of them were exported to Southeast Asia so there aren't as many running around as there should be. Z3n posted:I dunno why you wouldnt just replace the bearings. A nice slide hammer is $80-100, bearings are 20 bucks, and you can spend some cash on a seal driver or just use a socket if you don't want to spend more. Toss the new bearings in the freezer for 12 hours before you install them and youre good to go. I'd normally like to go that route, but I'm moving overseas in 3 months and don't want to buy any tools, etc if I can help it.
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Apr 22, 2014 00:28
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:So my GSX-R 600 track bike's got the brake MC recall out on it. I'm guessing there's no way to get the replacement MC for free (let alone have the work done free) when I don't have a title right? Why would the title matter? It's still got a VIN, right? I'm sure you'll have to physically get it to the bike shop, they won't just mail you an MC on your word, but I've never had a shop ask for proof of ownership.
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Apr 22, 2014 00:33
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Z3n posted:Did you install a crush washer on it? Are the crush washers large enough to take up the slack if you swapped banjo bolts? I didn't install a crush washer, I've never seen a bleed nipple with a crush washer on it and there isn't one in the parts diagram. I did swap lines and banjo fittings, used new washers and had no issues with those. The leakage occurs only at the bleed nipple threads.
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Apr 22, 2014 00:41
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Oh, poo poo, I totally misread. you're probably screwed, unfortunately. The bleed screw seals internally, so if it's really deformed you're kind of hosed. Dunno if the screw is softer than the MC metal or not. Replacement bleed screw and see if that fixes it, otherwise, I don't think it's something that's easily repaired.
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Apr 22, 2014 03:50
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I'd normally like to go that route, but I'm moving overseas in 3 months and don't want to buy any tools, etc if I can help it. Machine shop would probably install the bearings for a 6 pack of beer. Or your local cycle shop. Or you can pound out the old ones with a drift (or bar of metal) and a hammer, and install the new ones with a socket + hammer. Try and remove them evenly by hitting them around the edges of the inner bearing, the less it gets cocked up in the bore the better off you are.
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Apr 22, 2014 03:50
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MC's are usually alloy AFAIK; bleed screws are steel. The MC is screwed  It's possible to repair some of them by getting the right sized drill bit and drilling a millimetre out of the screw seat. If you do this perfectly, the bleed screw will have a new, perfectly conical seat to seal against.
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Apr 22, 2014 04:08
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Masturbation while riding. I've had a boring last few weeks, what can anyone tell me?
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Apr 22, 2014 06:08
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Apr 22, 2014 06:11
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Slavvy posted:MC's are usually alloy AFAIK; bleed screws are steel. The MC is screwed So I took out the bleed screw and had a peek down the hole - the seat indeed looks screwed. Oh well,350$ and a lesson learned. I should really just leave this poo poo to my mechanic
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Apr 22, 2014 09:39
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nsaP posted:Masturbation while riding. I've had a boring last few weeks, what can anyone tell me? 
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Apr 22, 2014 13:29
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tzam posted:So I took out the bleed screw and had a peek down the hole - the seat indeed looks screwed. Oh well,350$ and a lesson learned. I should really just leave this poo poo to my mechanic Buy a brembo mc to replace the stock one.
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Apr 22, 2014 16:07
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My dad is giving me his 2003 Buell Blast. I learned to ride when I was still in highschool and lived in a small town. Now I live in Boston and I haven't ridden since a few years before I moved here. I now live in a Boston apartment with no off-street parking. Should I be worried about theft if I park it on the street in front of my apartment? Are locks worth it for such a light bike? Is an alarm/tracker worth it for such a cheap bike?
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Apr 22, 2014 21:17
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RadioPassive posted:My dad is giving me his 2003 Buell Blast. I learned to ride when I was still in highschool and lived in a small town. Now I live in Boston and I haven't ridden since a few years before I moved here. Your dad is a real jerk. For real though I would keep barebones liability only on that thing. No one is going to steal a buell blast.
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Apr 22, 2014 21:22
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My downstairs neighbor has a PT Cruiser that gets parked out front in various states of repair, and my neighbor across the street drives a VW Beetle. The Buell isn't even the second least desirable vehicle on the street, and it's a short street.
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Apr 22, 2014 21:29
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Nobody will steal your blast, but full coverage insurance for it is probably almost free.
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Apr 22, 2014 21:29
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Disc lock and a big chain through an immovable object.
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Apr 22, 2014 21:43
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I agree even if it isn't the most stellar motorcycle some gently caress wit might want to take it for a joyride. I would lock it for that if nothing else
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Apr 22, 2014 22:46
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I would insure the poo poo out of it and then leave the keys in it, myself
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Apr 22, 2014 22:55
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