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Rhyno posted:Time to do brakes, I'm thinking of going with the Corksport pads, anyone running these? If my rotors are bad what's the preferred/popular choice. Go with the Corksport big brake kit. I want to know if it's awesome or not... 
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May 19, 2014 06:21
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MetaJew posted:Go with the Corksport big brake kit. I want to know if it's awesome or not... Not in the budget yet, maybe after summer. Edit: I mean, if CS had a full system I might have given it a whirl since I have a credit with them but they don't even offer rear pads or their own rotors yet (if ever at all). Rhyno fucked around with this message at 06:41 on May 19, 2014 |
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May 19, 2014 06:37
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With so many established brands, why would you buy the corksports, Which are almost certainly rebranded somethings anyhow. Also, don't they have a not so good rep?
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May 19, 2014 06:45
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nm posted:With so many established brands, why would you buy the corksports, Which are almost certainly rebranded somethings anyhow. Because Corksport has pretty much the best customer service rep out there. If they have an issue with a part they recall and replace it. According to their rep Spencer their brakes are not rebrands. But I don't need new calipers right now so it's a moot point.
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May 19, 2014 06:52
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I'm pretty sure that unless you are running insanely grippy tires, the thing holding back stopping distance isn't gonna be the rear brake pads anyway.
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May 19, 2014 07:09
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Cygni posted:I'm pretty sure that unless you are running insanely grippy tires, the thing holding back stopping distance isn't gonna be the rear brake pads anyway. I'm not even tracking the car so I don't really see that I need to drop $800+ on a brake kit right this minute.
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May 19, 2014 07:12
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My first car was an S14 240sx, so messing around with parts from other Nissans/Infinitis was kind of fun. One of those swaps I did was putting on the Z32 front brakes and rotors on my car along with the BMC, which made a huge difference. To that end, I was briefly looking around to see what Ford/Volvo/Mazda parts might be swapped onto the MS3. According to one article I read, the MS3 shared the same brakes as the S60 Volvo. I briefly tried to figure out if you could mount up the S60R brakes to our cars, but I didn't fund much info on it. Also, Volvo uses some weird lug pattern, so you'd have to redrill their rotors if you wanted to go forward with that swap. It was a fun thought experiment at least.
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May 19, 2014 07:22
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Rhyno posted:I'm not even tracking the car so I don't really see that I need to drop $800+ on a brake kit right this minute. Just buy cheap rotors and pads from rockauto. Or use your credit for pads through corksport and still get cheap rotors at rockauto.
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May 20, 2014 13:43
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I haven't been here in forever, and I wasn't exactly incredibly active on the forums, so I'm sorry in advance for using all of you for your automotive knowledge with nothing to offer in return. I drive a 2003 Protege5 with about 84,500 miles. My alternator has seized and the belt has disappeared. I figured I can swap it out without too many problems, but it's positioned rear-right in the bay and looks nearly impossible to pull out without removing numerous other bits. Can anyone give me some pointers? Should I try getting to it from below? I haven't lifted the car to take a look at that yet because today has been pretty terrible and I just don't feel like dealing with that nonsense at the moment, so that might be a solution. Any pointers?
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May 20, 2014 21:41
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MetaJew posted:To that end, I was briefly looking around to see what Ford/Volvo/Mazda parts might be swapped onto the MS3. According to one article I read, the MS3 shared the same brakes as the S60 Volvo. I briefly tried to figure out if you could mount up the S60R brakes to our cars, but I didn't fund much info on it. Also, Volvo uses some weird lug pattern, so you'd have to redrill their rotors if you wanted to go forward with that swap. I think I had looked at that myself... but the rotors are already extremely similar. The S60R rotors are only 10mm larger in diameter, a bit thicker, and they have a smaller hub diameter along with that different bolt pattern. Sure, not things that can't be resolved, but I'd almost wonder if you could just swap the S60 calipers on instead and call it good.
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May 21, 2014 00:29
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Nevermind! I found my answer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6lDh1RnBFw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsZyqdcZeT0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cv8SwbbHASk Thanks anyway just for being here, guys.
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May 21, 2014 01:30
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Is there anyone with a 2014 3 who could tell me if the dash and navigation display have any issues being viewable with polarized sunglasses? I don't know anyone with a pair to test it out myself.
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May 31, 2014 03:50
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Arrinien posted:Is there anyone with a 2014 3 who could tell me if the dash and navigation display have any issues being viewable with polarized sunglasses? I don't know anyone with a pair to test it out myself. I couldn't tell you about the navigation display, but the dash is pretty easily viewable through sungalsses. The only time I've had issues is when I have accidentally left the lights on and it's still bright out.
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May 31, 2014 13:56
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I noticed there is a fan running when I turn off my car (2014 Mazda 3). It turns off after like 2-3 minutes. Is it some kind of circuit or ECU bug that is causing this? I also noticed other times there is a low humming noise coming from the car when it has been powered off. This noise seems to be emitted independently of the cooling fan.
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May 31, 2014 23:01
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Kraftwerk posted:I noticed there is a fan running when I turn off my car (2014 Mazda 3). It turns off after like 2-3 minutes. Is it some kind of circuit or ECU bug that is causing this? Yeah, its supposed to do that. You probably havent heard it before because the engine hasn't gotten hot enough for it to kick on, but a fair amount of modern cars have electric fans that will continue to run after the ignition is off. The other noise you are hearing is the injector cleaning cycle. If its running for like 8 minutes or making a ton of noise, the fan controller might be messed up. But if it just runs for a minute or two, especially when its hot out or the AC has been on, thats normal. Cygni fucked around with this message at 23:14 on May 31, 2014 |
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May 31, 2014 23:10
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Hmm. Can anyone recommend a decent roof rack system for an 09 3? I was toying with the idea of installing a rear hitch and getting a bike carrier but now I'm kind of thinking about getting a roof rack and a thule bike carrier because I can use it to haul my snowboard in the winter too, etc. I don't live anywhere where I come into contact with low ceilings so I'm not terribly worried about accidentally crushing my bike or anything.
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Jun 4, 2014 02:04
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Arrinien posted:Is there anyone with a 2014 3 who could tell me if the dash and navigation display have any issues being viewable with polarized sunglasses? I don't know anyone with a pair to test it out myself. I wear polarized sunglasses and haven't had any problems with either the dash or nav unit. They both get slightly muted but nothing like say an iPhone or iPad.
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Jun 4, 2014 02:06
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I think that you have the mounting points under the roof rail. Get the Yakima mounting pods and then pickup the cross bar, fairing and whatever attachment from Craigslist.
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Jun 4, 2014 02:07
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CharlesM posted:Nah, on the roof. I special ordered these, they have little removable covers that expose the hidden mounting points for a roof rack. I drilled into my stock ones because I was in a hurry before. I don't know why they're special order in the U.S. Guess they don't expect any U.S. owners to use a roof rack or whatever. The factory mounting points are there and work great. I don't seem to have the part numbers for the rain gutters but I found them on a Mazda forum somewhere. (Listed as Mould RT Roof & LT Roof on the order email). All the other stuff is Yakima.
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Jun 4, 2014 07:20
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Do any of you other MS3/Mazda3 guys notice that certain types of gas pumps seem to underfill the tank? I filled up a few days ago with one of the pumps that's just a long fill nozzle, without the fume-siphoning fixture. Despite putting in nearly 11 gallons, my fuel level gauge was reading at nearly 3/4 of a tank at only 29 miles. I tried briefly topping it off when I filled up and the pump shut off almost immediately so I assumed my tank was full. This has happened a few times so I'm not sure if it's something to do with the pump or if the gas tank filler neck has a weird shape that will cause the pump to shut off earlier than it should. I should mention that I haven't been doing any aggressive driving, just some city and highway stuff, so it's unusual get poor mileage like this.
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Jun 4, 2014 07:28
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The Costco pump shuts off randomly on mine unless I turn the nozzle upside down. I don't know why that works but it does.
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Jun 4, 2014 07:39
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MetaJew posted:Do any of you other MS3/Mazda3 guys notice that certain types of gas pumps seem to underfill the tank? I filled up a few days ago with one of the pumps that's just a long fill nozzle, without the fume-siphoning fixture. Despite putting in nearly 11 gallons, my fuel level gauge was reading at nearly 3/4 of a tank at only 29 miles. I tried briefly topping it off when I filled up and the pump shut off almost immediately so I assumed my tank was full.
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Jun 4, 2014 07:43
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Eh, if it's really the sensor, screw it. I have a decent idea of what kind of mileage I average, and I always reset the trip odometer. That being said, it'd be pretty lovely if the sensor was already going out on a 5 year old car with less than 50k miles.
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Jun 4, 2014 07:49
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Most Mazdas are pretty good but I wouldn't put them above let's say legendary early 90s Honda & Toyota reliability.
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Jun 4, 2014 10:53
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CharlesM posted:Most Mazdas are pretty good but I wouldn't put them above let's say legendary early 90s Honda & Toyota reliability.
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Jun 4, 2014 18:03
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MetaJew posted:Do any of you other MS3/Mazda3 guys notice that certain types of gas pumps seem to underfill the tank? I filled up a few days ago with one of the pumps that's just a long fill nozzle, without the fume-siphoning fixture. Despite putting in nearly 11 gallons, my fuel level gauge was reading at nearly 3/4 of a tank at only 29 miles. I tried briefly topping it off when I filled up and the pump shut off almost immediately so I assumed my tank was full. I usually fill from Shell (advertises no ethanol in their 91 octane), Esso or Petro-can and never had the problem, but it's happened to me at a Co-op station. CharlesM I'm surprised your 3 didn't come with the roof rack mounting points. I would have thought they'd be a stock thing; I know my first 3 from 2006 came with 'em. Cygni posted:The other noise you are hearing is the injector cleaning cycle. How long/when is this supposed to run? On my MS3, whenever I shut off or get in the car, there's a very quiet hum/buzz. It's not the fan, because I can't hear poo poo when I get out of the car. It lasts for minutes, too, to the point where I was surprised when the noise stopped after sitting in the turned-off car somewhere after 5-10 minutes. Phy fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 18:37
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MetaJew posted:Eh, if it's really the sensor, screw it. I have a decent idea of what kind of mileage I average, and I always reset the trip odometer. That being said, it'd be pretty lovely if the sensor was already going out on a 5 year old car with less than 50k miles. As long as you're getting an accurate reading as the tank nears empty it shouldn't matter. I'm actually surprised that in this day and age of dumbed-down gauge clusters where pretty much everything has been replaced by an idiot light that fuel gauges haven't been replaced by a standalone low fuel light.
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Jun 4, 2014 18:51
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A lot of cars (including at least the current-gen Mazda3 and I think the Mazda2) haven't quite gone that far, but they have swapped the gauge mechanism out for an LCD bar-graph. Honestly that's a gauge I don't mind giving up the needle on. With a reasonably-accurate distance-to-empty display I'd be fine with something as simple as full / 3/4 / half / 1/4, then a low fuel light.
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Jun 4, 2014 18:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:A lot of cars (including at least the current-gen Mazda3 and I think the Mazda2) haven't quite gone that far, but they have swapped the gauge mechanism out for an LCD bar-graph. Honestly that's a gauge I don't mind giving up the needle on. If we're just talking aesthetics, then sure I agree with you. Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jun 4, 2014 |
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Jun 4, 2014 19:09
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Oh, yeah, separate issue there - though it would remove the need for quite so much accuracy in the fuel sender, at least at the top half of the tank (where it's terrible anyway even when working properly). The sender is probably still the same old variable-resistor type that the industry has been using for decades anyway. Corvette folks have had good luck dumping in a bottle or two of Chevron's Techron additive - for whatever reason the sender in those cars is fickle as hell (probably something to do with the fact that it uses two fuel tanks) and gets varnished up easily.
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Jun 4, 2014 19:13
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Phy posted:I usually fill from Shell (advertises no ethanol in their 91 octane), Esso or Petro-can and never had the problem, but it's happened to me at a Co-op station. I only fill up with Shell 93 octane. All fuel in Austin, and most of Texas has 10% ethanol I believe. Maybe some pumps just have overly sensitive overfill sensors.
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Jun 4, 2014 20:27
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Hey Mazda dudes! I'm looking to become one of you soon. A few questions. First, what's the general consensus on the reliability of the MS3? Are there any years that had more problems than others? If I have 15k to spend on a certified pre-owned, what year(s) should I be looking at?
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Jun 19, 2014 10:20
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I'd look at 2008.5 onward if you want a Gen1, and if it's older just make sure previous owner has paid attention to the TSB's like for fuel pump, smoking turbo etc. Someone else can chime in for Gen2, all i know about the new models is my car's some sort of Frankenstein since it zoom zoom boomed and I have a Gen2 motor. I have an 08 about to break 100k miles and it's been solid, just typical maintenance like changing fluid, tires. e: oddball question, what kind of adhesive holds the material underneath the seats? There's some piece of carpet/fabric dangling under my driver's seat and I'll grab a pic later but it's just a minor annoyance more than anything. air- fucked around with this message at 12:27 on Jun 19, 2014 |
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Jun 19, 2014 12:23
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Google Butt posted:Hey Mazda dudes! I'm looking to become one of you soon. I hit the lottery (in the wrong way) in terms of problems with the MS3, but I also bought a 2007 that seemed to have been fairly early in production. If you search my posts in this thread you'll get a nice long blow-by-blow of it. Off the top of my head, in the 100k miles I owned it (24k to 124k, April 2009 to April 2013) I had the following non-maintenance issues: *Brake rotors (OEMs warped on me, dealer resurfaced, by 40k they warped again and I replaced with Centric blanks + Hawk HPS - never a problem again) *Rear wiring harness (car kept triggering the lights over bumps due to thinking the hatch was open - turned out to be a wiring failure, not a switch / latch failure) *Throttle body (early '07 cars had defective throttle bodies - new part fixed it but is drat near $600!) *Air bag light (another wiring failure, under the driver's seat) *Shifter shaft seal on transmission *Shifter cables (frayed when replacing the seal - another $800 since I had to get it rushed due to an impending road trip) *Left rear wheel bearing *Right front wheel bearing (required a new knuckle and CV joint since neither the shop nor the machine shop next door could separate the stub axle from the wheel bearing) *Thermostat *Radiator hoses *Upper engine mount When I traded it in, it needed a driver's CV joint (I overextended it when replacing the struts in 2012, the boot was starting to puke grease in 2013). It also would track right/left based on throttle input (probably needed lower control arms) and had developed an intermittent miss at WOT. The A/C was also acting up and the static pressures were wonky, so it might've needed a compressor too. To top all of that off, because my commute is largely straight-line highway, the high negative camber built into the car would cord the inside of my tires every year like clockwork. The outer half+ would still be well away from the wear bars. This may seem like a lot of poo poo... but I still would have bought that car. When it was right (and it really was right more often than not) it was just stupid, stupid amounts of fun. Get the newest, nicest one you can afford and en-loving-joy.
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Jun 20, 2014 22:14
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Well I have a problem. I made a left turn to go into this carpark. It was dark and what I thought was the entrance was actually a sloped curb just before the entrance. I ended up jumping the curb with my right side wheels. No visible signs of damage that night. There was also a sound that almost sounded like a crash. On my way home I noticed at about 80km-90km per hour my car makes a very faint humming noise coming from the tires and I feel a slight bit more vibration than normal. I also think it drifts ever so slightly to the left. Today I did another check in daylight and noticed a small dent in the corner of my rims and a crack in the tire wall just above it. How serious you guys think the damage is? My guess is a messed up alignment + balljoint repair. So I'll probably be $500 down the hole unless I can BS a warranty issue out of it somehow.
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Jun 22, 2014 02:51
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I was talking to my mechanic and he mentioned that these skyactiv engines have tons of little tubules the diameter of a pen which could get clogged up with oil very easily. He recommends I change the oil every 5000km instead of the factory recommended 8000. Is there any truth to this?
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Jun 28, 2014 17:47
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I'd much rather trust the manufacturer than a random mechanic. It wouldn't hurt but you'll just throw away money.
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Jun 28, 2014 17:55
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Okay I'm back! I've found a 2010 MS3 with 55k miles (non CPO) at a dealership. I emailed an offer for $15,500. Do you guys think that's fair? My absolute max is $16k. edit: NM, quoted me $19k out the door, can't do it. double edit: Does anyone have a 2011 Mazda3 s sport hatch? Google Butt fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Jun 29, 2014 |
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Jun 29, 2014 01:27
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Kraftwerk posted:I was talking to my mechanic and he mentioned that these skyactiv engines have tons of little tubules the diameter of a pen which could get clogged up with oil very easily. He recommends I change the oil every 5000km instead of the factory recommended 8000. Is there any truth to this? That's only 5000mi. Does the skyactiv need 0w-20? If so, it is all synthetic, which should easily do 5000mi. Even modern dino juice should be fine in anything for 5000k that isn't super high performance or boosted.
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Jun 30, 2014 06:32
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nm posted:That's only 5000mi. Does the skyactiv need 0w-20? If so, it is all synthetic, which should easily do 5000mi. Even modern dino juice should be fine in anything for 5000k that isn't super high performance or boosted. Yup, just need to make sure the mechanics put 0w-20 in when my next oil change comes. I've heard stories of dealers using the wrong oil just because.
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Jun 30, 2014 07:53
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