tjones posted:Anyone have experience with manual cam chain tensioners and blocking the oil passage that would supply a hydraulic OEM one? I'm about to swap in an APE unit for my 09 R6. The usual protocol is to use RTV on that little hole in the CCT passage. The idea of using RTV to plug an oil passage freaked me out too much on my R6 but I've heard without it the oil pressure is a little low as the CCT is getting bathed in oil that it doesn't really need since it's manual now. Friends that have done the procedure let the RTV cure for at least 24 hours and didn't have any problems.
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May 16, 2014 15:23
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What type of gas should I put in my V Star 250?
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May 18, 2014 17:50
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The burning kind. Whatever octane level Yamaha recommends. Probably 87 but look in the manual.
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May 18, 2014 17:54
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Whatever the owner's manual calls for, which is probably going to be 87 octane (R+M)/2.
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May 18, 2014 17:55
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Bottom Liner posted:What type of gas should I put in my V Star 250? The lowest octane you can get away with
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May 19, 2014 02:42
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Alternately, try diesel! It costs about the same as regular gas but it has an octane rating of like a million or something.
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May 19, 2014 03:32
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Sagebrush posted:Alternately, try diesel! It costs about the same as regular gas but it has an octane rating of like a million or something. If you're talking non-gasoline fuels there's only one possible option 
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May 19, 2014 03:41
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Recently I've noticed my engine making an odd noise. It was overdue an oil change so I did that yesterday but it hasn't had any effect on the noise. I never seem to notice it when I start the bike up but by the time I get off it's very noticeable so I think it might be related to heat? I've only started noticing it recently as it's warmed up weather-wise. Fuel chat got me curious so I looked in the manual for my bike, since I got the bike in mid March I've done about 1400 miles, all of it on regular but the manual says premium only. The bike is a 2006 Yamaha MT03, a 660cc single that I'm pretty sure America never got but hopefully someone knows something about it. I recorded the sound on my phone, took a video too. The sound on the video isn't great, but the audio is a bit clearer. Both recordings start off at the exhaust before moving to the engine because I wasn't sure how well the mic on my phone would pick up the separate sounds and I didn't want the exhaust sound to be confused with the noise I'm talking about. Here's the video: https://mediacru.sh/vIblgGudQpwu And the the audio: https://mediacru.sh/LZ9-XfodH5px
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May 19, 2014 18:00
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It sounds a lot like this issue (a known issue with the 660cc engine), get it fixed as soon as possible: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nyk4PWGVQgw If you catch it in time, you won't have to replace woodruff keys, gears etc., only tighten the nut up with some loctite applied and the lock washer.
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May 19, 2014 18:46
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Did the multimeter diode test on my r/r. I think it's fried according to that super handy fault finding pdf someone linked before. Still gonna post for a sanity check, it's possible I'm doing something wrong. Black multimeter lead to negative output wire: 0v for all three wires Red multimeter lead to negative output wire: ~0.48v for all three wires Red multimeter lead to positive output wire: 0v for all three wires Black multimeter lead to positive output wire: ~0.48v for all three wires Made extra sure the leads were actually contacting right and everything.
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May 19, 2014 20:02
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Clymer or haynes manual for a gen 2 KLR?
Dead Pressed fucked around with this message at 23:28 on May 19, 2014 |
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May 19, 2014 23:11
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M42 posted:Did the multimeter diode test on my r/r. I think it's fried according to that super handy fault finding pdf someone linked before. Still gonna post for a sanity check, it's possible I'm doing something wrong. R/Rs basically cannot be effectively tested statically - you need to test them under electrical load. What voltages are you getting with the bike off/on/running at idle/reved to 5k?
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May 19, 2014 23:20
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A little better since I replaced the battery (doesn't drop under 11 while starting, for example) but still a little high on the revving end according to the ninja wiki. I think like 14.2v. Actually looking at some youtube videos it looks like there's supposed to be a 0v readout where I got it.  I don't know what to belieeeve
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May 19, 2014 23:48
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I'm not convinced you have / still have an actual problem E: other than perfectly normal bike hypochondria I mean
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May 19, 2014 23:51
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A little over 14 is probably fine - I would just ride it.
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May 19, 2014 23:59
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If you're really concerned, just replace the R/R anyway. I can't imagine it's a super expensive part given how common Ninjettes are.
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May 20, 2014 00:09
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Alright, cool. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't destroying my brand new battery by running it along with bad components.Snowdens Secret posted:I'm not convinced you have / still have an actual problem Well, the catalyst for all this freaking out was definitely not bike hypochondria. Still not sure I solved the problem, but... it's hard to force yourself to go on a long ride when you nearly stranded yourself cuz the bike poo poo the bed last time. e. solution: circle neighborhood 100 times
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May 20, 2014 00:11
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Can anyone reccomend a service for having a bike shipped across the country ?
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May 20, 2014 00:57
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Spacely Sprockets posted:Can anyone reccomend a service for having a bike shipped across the country ? z3n's professional state-to-state riding service. 
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May 20, 2014 01:08
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Spacely Sprockets posted:Can anyone reccomend a service for having a bike shipped across the country ? http://www.funtransport.com/ These are the guys that shipped my Futura for me. Super professional and careful. They weren't the cheapest, but the cheaper guys were all much sketchier. Also they gave an AMA discount that covered the cost of joining - if you're already a member that's a little off.
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May 20, 2014 01:18
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M42 posted:Alright, cool. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't destroying my brand new battery by running it along with bad components. It's possible that your poking and probing for inspection's sake has fixed the problem without you knowing. Unsatisfying, I know, but it happens more than I care to admit.
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May 20, 2014 01:41
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Well, I learned how to use a multimeter, so it's not completely unsatisfying!  Also made a family's worth of new friends, who came over to chat after the 6th time they noticed me laboring under the noonday sun, frantically flailing ratchets and battery leads while cursing under my breath, wild eyed. The very picture of approachability M42 fucked around with this message at 02:09 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 01:59
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M42 posted:Black multimeter lead to negative output wire: 0v for all three wires
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May 20, 2014 03:33
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What are some tricks that the rest of you have for getting a stop light to register your presence? I'm in Los Angeles and I have been constantly getting stranded at red lights because my bike, DRZ 400S, isn't heavy enough to trigger the sensor. I stop in the center of the sensor marks and I even go as far as to put down my kickstand and rock on the panel, which I had heard works. Nothing. I've waited for minutes at lights with no results, which has resulted in me making some pretty questionable* turns. How do you deal with it? *The question is whether or not a cop is watching.
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May 20, 2014 03:47
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I hear neodymium magnets somewhere on the bottom of the bike work well.Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:If by 0v you actually mean OF or OL, those are correct working numbers. Like Z3n said, though, the real test is the voltage it's putting out to a good battery. Says .0L, guessing that applies. M42 fucked around with this message at 03:53 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 03:51
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Chichevache posted:What are some tricks that the rest of you have for getting a stop light to register your presence? I'm in Los Angeles and I have been constantly getting stranded at red lights because my bike, DRZ 400S, isn't heavy enough to trigger the sensor. I stop in the center of the sensor marks and I even go as far as to put down my kickstand and rock on the panel, which I had heard works. Nothing. I've waited for minutes at lights with no results, which has resulted in me making some pretty questionable* turns. How do you deal with it? Unless America is really weird the sensors work off induction, not weight as commonly believed. Get a more ferrous bike you pansy!
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May 20, 2014 04:07
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M42 posted:I hear neodymium magnets somewhere on the bottom of the bike work well. This, or just go when there's no traffic.
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May 20, 2014 04:09
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Slavvy posted:Unless America is really weird the sensors work off induction, not weight as commonly believed. Get a more ferrous bike you pansy! This, seriously. Maybe put a steel skid plate under it? My GS tripped every light until I put a full exhaust on it and then tripped none, even the gate to get out of the parking garage at my old apartment. Between that and the noise I was happy to put the stock system back on. I've never tried magnets though. Maybe that would work.
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May 20, 2014 04:15
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Don't stop your bike in the center, stop it with the engine right over the ring of sealant in the pavement. That ring is covering a magnetic induction coil looped under the pavement, getting as much iron over the loop itself will set it off. I've done this ever since I started riding and I've yet to have a light not trip for me.
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May 20, 2014 04:43
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M42 posted:I hear neodymium magnets somewhere on the bottom of the bike work well. If you use the diode check mode, it should beep when you touch the leads to each other, meaning continuity. If it doesn't beep when you're testing those diodes themselves, then it's fine. Beep is bad in this case.
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May 20, 2014 04:45
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Hey so this is a very dumb question but I'll ask it anyway because it is the first time it's occurred... Today I went to board gaming night at a friend's house. It dropped to about 57 F during the 4 hours I was there and lightly dew/misted all over my bike. When I went to leave I full choke'd it until I could apply some throttle in neutral without it dying. After about 500 feet and in third, the engine died while I was shifting down to 2. After this is took a solid 5 minutes of applying varying amounts of choke and hitting the starter to get it back into warm up phase. After I let it sit for a solid 4-5 minutes at full choke though it was fine the rest of the way home. This is purely because it was a cold engine right? I just needed to warm it up a little bit longer the first time? I'm guessing I downshifted wrong and stalled the engine instead since I was rolling off the throttle at the same time too. I kind of rushed the first warm up because I wanted to get out of my friend's neighborhood since the full choke was pretty loud and it was midnight. Atleast the electricals didn't blow up, pretty happy about that since that means I wired them up well 
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May 20, 2014 05:04
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HotCanadianChick posted:Don't stop your bike in the center, stop it with the engine right over the ring of sealant in the pavement. That ring is covering a magnetic induction coil looped under the pavement, getting as much iron over the loop itself will set it off. I've done this ever since I started riding and I've yet to have a light not trip for me. I'll give that a shot, though I think I've done it in the past with no result. Is there a chance that the height of my bike is the problem? I'm pretty sure my ground to engine clearance is a lot higher than the average bike.
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May 20, 2014 05:17
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HotCanadianChick posted:Don't stop your bike in the center, stop it with the engine right over the ring of sealant in the pavement. That ring is covering a magnetic induction coil looped under the pavement, getting as much iron over the loop itself will set it off. I've done this ever since I started riding and I've yet to have a light not trip for me. This is what I've always done with my Ninja 650 and I very very rarely have any problems triggering lights. You can almost always see the sealant where the induction coils are. Just sit right on top of them.
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May 20, 2014 05:19
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Your bike is new, correct? So, assuming your carb and battery are fine, it may have been operator error. Did it just suddenly die when you downshifted, or did it chug and stall because you were going too slow? And as for the hard-starting, you may have actually been using too much choke. 57 degrees shouldn't really require more than 50-75% choke, but I don't know how DRZs operate specifically.
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May 20, 2014 05:36
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Razzled posted:Hey so this is a very dumb question but I'll ask it anyway because it is the first time it's occurred... Uh, you really shouldn't need full choke for very long, just to get it started. As soon as its started fiddle with the choke so that the bike is at its normal idle, full choke is ridiculous. For example, on a cold day the first time I have to start my bike I will put it on full choke before starting it, hit the starter and then immediately I can turn the choke down to half otherwise it just sits there revving its tits off. Within about a minute I can completely shut off the choke and it'll idle fine.
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May 20, 2014 05:41
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Shimrod posted:Uh, you really shouldn't need full choke for very long, just to get it started. As soon as its started fiddle with the choke so that the bike is at its normal idle, full choke is ridiculous. Ah okay, I thought that but for a little bit if I pushed it to half choke after starting it would just die. It took some fiddling to get it to idle at half. @AncientTV Did it just suddenly die when you downshifted, or did it chug and stall because you were going too slow? Now that I think about it, it definitely chugged and stalled because I was going too slow. Sounds like I just didn't do the warm up right. I'll re-read the owners manual tonight.
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May 20, 2014 06:00
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Chichevache posted:I'll give that a shot, though I think I've done it in the past with no result. Is there a chance that the height of my bike is the problem? I'm pretty sure my ground to engine clearance is a lot higher than the average bike. My KLR and my sumo always had trouble with some lights. Most lights, stopping over the coil works, but some are just really poorly calibrated. I've seen a product that's essentially a big magnet you zip tie to your bike. Does it work? I don't know. Razzled posted:Sounds like I just didn't do the warm up right. I'll re-read the owners manual tonight. You'll learn to listen to what your bike is telling you soon. Every bike is a little different.
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May 20, 2014 06:13
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Chichevache posted:What are some tricks that the rest of you have for getting a stop light to register your presence? I'm in Los Angeles and I have been constantly getting stranded at red lights because my bike, DRZ 400S, isn't heavy enough to trigger the sensor. I stop in the center of the sensor marks and I even go as far as to put down my kickstand and rock on the panel, which I had heard works. Nothing. I've waited for minutes at lights with no results, which has resulted in me making some pretty questionable* turns. How do you deal with it? Either run the light if you wait and it's safe, or wait for a car and motion for it to pull onto the sensor. Everything else is voodoo I think. I have one I run everytime at night cause it's a left hander off an exit ramp and the bike doesn't register. Otherwise I usually just have to motion to the car behind me to pull up cause they leave too much space between us at stoplights. Running the light is slowly being made legal in states around me, but not mine. They have crazy requirements that I don't actually do, like waiting 2 or 3 minutes, but they at least let you do it. Technically if I don't see a cop and do it, I'll get busted if he's a cockhole. nsaP fucked around with this message at 06:57 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 06:54
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Traffic light coils are inductive loops, they only care about the mass and affinity for magnetism of the object in their boundary. Technically the most effective thing would be strapping a bigass chunk of iron to your bike, but it would be ridiculous.
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May 20, 2014 07:45
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Razzled posted:Ah okay, I thought that but for a little bit if I pushed it to half choke after starting it would just die. It took some fiddling to get it to idle at half. I think the issue is that your bike knew you were off to do board-gaming and did everything in it's power to stop you so you could find something else to do, like go for a bike ride.
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May 20, 2014 07:56
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