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Squirrel007 posted:Honestly it was the newegg reviews scaring me off. I dont want to drop 80 dollars on a piece of hardware that can potentially fail in a few months. Read this http://techreport.com/review/26058/the-ssd-endurance-experiment-data-retention-after-600tb quote:By far the most telling takeaway thus far is the fact that all the drives have endured 600TB of writes without dying. That's an awful lot of data—well over 300GB per day for five years—and far more than typical PC users are ever likely to write to their drives. Even the most demanding power users would have a hard time pushing the endurance limits of these SSDs.
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May 21, 2014 00:31
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Maia posted:I ended up going with an MSI GTX 770. Felt like it would work great for what we wanted. But I'm wondering about the PSU (ended up getting a Seasonic G Series 550W). Went back through the thread, and everybody seems to be of the opinion that that power supply is perfectly adequate for a GTX 770. But the documentation on this GPU calls for a minimum 600W power supply. Should I be concerned here? You're fine, a very high quality 550W unit like the one you have is more than enough for a 770.
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May 21, 2014 01:00
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Squirrel007 posted:Honestly it was the newegg reviews scaring me off. I dont want to drop 80 dollars on a piece of hardware that can potentially fail in a few months.
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May 21, 2014 01:04
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Hace posted:You're fine, a very high quality 550W unit like the one you have is more than enough for a 770. Great. Thanks for the reassurance!
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May 21, 2014 01:05
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Josh Lyman posted:So you're saying that even companies like Google and Microsoft and Apple, providing their coders with computers that use SSDs, they do so believing the computers will fail in a few months? Didn't you know? A significant portion of the millions upon millions of PC ultrabooks, MacBooks, iOS and Android devices sold using solid state storage fail in a few months. Edit: Poe's law. I am being sarcastic.
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May 21, 2014 01:12
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What do you guys think of this table? http://www.logicalincrements.com/levelcap/  @ "Levelcap's gaming build. Lots of performance without going ridiculously overboard" with $1340 in 780's
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May 21, 2014 01:17
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Logicalincrements is poo poo.
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May 21, 2014 01:19
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I'm pretty much set on the Evo solid state drive and doubt the price on that is dropping, but on replacing my other parts (motherboard and processor) is there a better time of the year that is worth waiting for to buy these parts? Kinda like how the best time to get a TV is pre super bowl post new years? I'm holding off on the graphics card until I see some more bang for my buck to upgrade my gtx460. Like I don't want to drop money on the new processor/mo board and have a loving memorial day weekend sale or something that I should have known was coming.
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May 21, 2014 01:20
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I dunno, it seems like there's never a good time to buy computer parts. See: http://vimeo.com/3653208 What motherboard & cpu do you have? I replaced my 460 with a 770 and it was a huuuge upgrade. I haven't upgraded my i5-750 yet though, I just overclocked it instead to wait for the new Intel stuff in a couple weeks. I don't have to upgrade it though, I could probably get by perfectly fine with this CPU for awhile longer.
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May 21, 2014 01:24
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fletcher posted:I dunno, it seems like there's never a good time to buy computer parts. See: http://vimeo.com/3653208 http://us.msi.com/product/mb/H61MP23_B3.html http://ark.intel.com/products/53422/Intel-Core-i3-2100-Processor-3M-Cache-3_10-GHz My motherboard is on its last legs because of a power supply fan that went out, so I'm trying to piece everything together that needs to be. Right now though if I do anything intensive on this machine the USB ports all die out. It's definitely a cooling issue.
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May 21, 2014 01:30
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Edit: Query Answered; Thanks goons!
madcow fucked around with this message at 05:33 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 03:23
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madcow posted:How foolish of me would it be to try to use this power supply again in my new computer. That depends, do you have fire insurance? (don't use that PSU)
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May 21, 2014 03:27
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OCZ and 10 years old, mother of god.
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May 21, 2014 03:38
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Veskit posted:Like I don't want to drop money on the new processor/mo board and have a loving memorial day weekend sale or something that I should have known was coming. Newegg has already started its Memorial Day sale, so you can start looking there if you're concerned (I may go ahead and buy the G.Skill Sniper memory, since it's a decent reduction). Fletcher is right, though, you can't try to predict the best price point for a given product. I typically wait until I either see it cheaper than I did at some point in time or until time is up (e.g., your part breaks/dies, you get that pay check you were waiting for, that other part you want to upgrade to gets released, etc.).
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May 21, 2014 04:00
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AllTerrineVehicle posted:So, I've purchased most of the things I need for my new PC, however I noticed that the B85 motherboard recommendation has been removed from the OP. Is there a reason for that? I'm not really going to balk at another 20-30 bucks when I'm already dropping around $1000 if there's a good reason, but I'm curious! It's mostly that the newer H97 motherboards are out now. If you can get a B85 board much cheaper than a H97 board and you desperately need to save the money there is no reason not to get B85.
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May 21, 2014 05:02
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beejay posted:OCZ and 10 years old, mother of god. +5V@40A, Group Regulated (and even when not cross loaded regulation looked like rear end), no PFC, Topower made (although high quality for Topower tbh), a fire waiting to happen indeed. Hell, it has less amps on the 12V rail than a current 300W SeaSonic, that should give you pause now a days.
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May 21, 2014 05:20
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Okay, here's my proposed ITX build for light gaming and photoshop. This will be hooked up to a 1080p, 24 inch monitor and be placed next to a couch, on hardwood floors with lots of pet hair (thus air filters). I didn't add an after market cpu heatsink since it's not going to be used for any high end gaming (no FPS). The motherboard might be overkill but I wanted to make sure it came with a good wifi and sound setup. I changed my mind in regards to the MSI ITX GPU since the case will fit full length cards as long as there's room with the PSU. Not sure about Fractal Design's quality in regards to PSUs but figured it would fit with the case setup (length of PSU can interfere with GPU placement) since it's the same company. But if you guys have a better suggestion for placement in a space restrictive case, I'm all for it. Case: Fractal Design Node 304 FD-CA-NODE-304-BL Black Aluminum / Steel Mini-ITX Tower Computer Case GPU: ASUS GTX760-DC2OC-2GD5 GeForce GTX 760 PSU: Fractal Design Tesla R2 500W ATX12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Power Supply RAM: CORSAIR XMS 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) MB: ASUS MAXIMUS VI IMPACT LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Mini ITX Intel Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i5-4670 Haswell 3.4GHz LGA 1150 84W Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54670 OS: Microsoft Windows 8.1 64-bit - OEM Total cost including shipping: $1019.95 EDIT: and yes. I fully admit to being an ASUS whore. inkblottime fucked around with this message at 06:07 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 06:04
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inkblottime posted:Okay, here's my proposed ITX build for light gaming and photoshop. This will be hooked up to a 1080p, 24 inch monitor and be placed next to a couch, on hardwood floors with lots of pet hair (thus air filters). I didn't add an after market cpu heatsink since it's not going to be used for any high end gaming (no FPS). The motherboard might be overkill but I wanted to make sure it came with a good wifi and sound setup. why are you buying a ridiculously expensive motherboard aimed at serious overclcokers when you don't have an overclocking capable CPU? Get an H97 motherboard. Also hawell refresh is out now so get an i5 4590 or 4690.
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May 21, 2014 06:08
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Hello all, I was directed here by some pals because I have some interest in trying to build a PC of my very own. Our current PC is getting up there in years, my laptop even moreso. The main thing I'd like to do is play the games I keep picking up on random steam sales now. Games like Dark Souls 1 level of wanting to run smoothly and not having to take an hour to do what seemed like a 20 minute portion of the game. I'd also like to be able to use stream off it on livestream. I've built up a possible PC using the information in the opening post and was just hoping to get an expert opinion on it whenever someone has the time. I know next to nothing about building 'em myself so I trust the advice provided here! http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3O3Sl
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May 21, 2014 06:14
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Good Listener posted:Hello all, I was directed here by some pals because I have some interest in trying to build a PC of my very own. Our current PC is getting up there in years, my laptop even moreso. The main thing I'd like to do is play the games I keep picking up on random steam sales now. Games like Dark Souls 1 level of wanting to run smoothly and not having to take an hour to do what seemed like a 20 minute portion of the game. I'd also like to be able to use stream off it on livestream. I've built up a possible PC using the information in the opening post and was just hoping to get an expert opinion on it whenever someone has the time. I know next to nothing about building 'em myself so I trust the advice provided here! I will slap you if you buy a $16 PSU, look for a Seasonic, Rosewill, Corsair (non-CX) or XFX 450-550 watts. Replace the HDD with a Western Digital Blue, and I don't know much about Power Color videocards so see what the thread says.
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May 21, 2014 08:37
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The Lord Bude posted:The idea with an SSD is to buy a small one - 240 or even 120 gigs and a regular hard drive as well, but if you can't afford even that then I suggest keeping it in mind for a future upgrade. There certainly isn't anywhere else for you to trim money. Hey so I'm taking your advice on the ssd after seeing how amazing they are on youtube. Thanks for everything!
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May 21, 2014 10:01
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Good Listener posted:Hello all, I was directed here by some pals because I have some interest in trying to build a PC of my very own. Our current PC is getting up there in years, my laptop even moreso. The main thing I'd like to do is play the games I keep picking up on random steam sales now. Games like Dark Souls 1 level of wanting to run smoothly and not having to take an hour to do what seemed like a 20 minute portion of the game. I'd also like to be able to use stream off it on livestream. I've built up a possible PC using the information in the opening post and was just hoping to get an expert opinion on it whenever someone has the time. I know next to nothing about building 'em myself so I trust the advice provided here! I honestly think it's worth putting in extra cash for an SSD, but if not, eh, it's a reasonable build. The only thing that stands out as an error to end all errors is a $15 '480W' PSU. Only buy a PSU this cheap if you: a) at best, want to buy another power supply within a year b) want random instability c) want to destroy all the components inside d) want to have a house fire As a bonus, that one doesn't even have a PCIe connector, so that setup flat out wouldn't work. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 15:27 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 10:29
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I looked twice for that $15 PSU, but I didn't see it until the third time. I just assumed it was taken out of the list somehow. It's like my brain blocked it
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May 21, 2014 15:20
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Ignoarints posted:I looked twice for that $15 PSU, but I didn't see it until the third time. I just assumed it was taken out of the list somehow. Here it is in all it's glory: 
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May 21, 2014 15:44
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The Lord Bude posted:why are you buying a ridiculously expensive motherboard aimed at serious overclcokers when you don't have an overclocking capable CPU? Thanks for the CPU update. I swapped them out. As far as the motherboard goes, it's itx board with good WIFI. This is a must. When I look at the H97 ITX boards, only Gigabyte has wifi, and they don't have a great reputation. Is there a board made by MSI or ASUS that is H97, iTX, wifi, and is significantly less than $180? I don't mind spending $180 on quality equipment but if there's a comparable board for $100, I'll certainly take a look at it.
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May 21, 2014 16:05
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Haha I took the FAQ's mentioning of "pricing and efficiency" to mean "go for the cheap ones". I've modified the set up now to work better I hope. Also what did you mean by this? HalloKitty posted:
As I side, I'm very new to this so it's all new info to my brain haha. http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3OeWv Modified, without a horrible power supply!
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May 21, 2014 16:10
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I'd argue that Powercolor isn't the most reliable manufacturer, I would go with this Sapphire card or this MSI card instead. Don't stress out about rated clock speeds, you can always overclock your card manually. Besides that, it looks great! Don't forget to buy Windows though.
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May 21, 2014 16:36
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Good Listener posted:Haha I took the FAQ's mentioning of "pricing and efficiency" to mean "go for the cheap ones". I've modified the set up now to work better I hope. Also what did you mean by this? Ah, OK, higher powered graphics cards have PCI Express power connectors, as the PCI Express slot itself isn't rated for a very high amount of power - that very, very cheap power supply didn't even have one, so you wouldn't even get a video output. The one you chose now is a great power supply. 
HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:46 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 16:42
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inkblottime posted:Thanks for the CPU update. I swapped them out. Asrock makes excellent boards as well - personally I'd never buy an MSI ITX board because they place the cpu socket too close to the PCIe slot and so break compatibility with most tower coolers. $180 is a more reasonable price for an impact - in Australia we pay over $300 for them - but there are cheaper options out there. Even if you go with z87 or z97 just for the wifi, you could still save a fair bit of money by buying an Asrock z87e-ITX or its impending replacement, the z97e-ITX are both excellent boards with good, intel based wireless AC (making it even better wifi than Asus, which doesn't use intel wifi). The asrock boards don't make you waste money on the super high end overclocking features of the Impact that you won't be using.
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May 21, 2014 17:02
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Good Listener posted:Haha I took the FAQ's mentioning of "pricing and efficiency" to mean "go for the cheap ones". I've modified the set up now to work better I hope. Also what did you mean by this? Don't buy seagate hard drives - get a Western Digital Blue instead.
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May 21, 2014 17:03
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The Lord Bude posted:Don't buy seagate hard drives - get a Western Digital Blue instead. Is there a difference between all the blues I see? I see wd blue, caviar blue, scorpio blue etc.
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May 21, 2014 17:23
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This what you want: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex
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May 21, 2014 17:26
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Ah thanks! I appreciate all the help on this from you all. With regards to the OS, I have that covered already since dad is going to pick up windows 7 soon so I'll probably borrow that for the comp. Now i just need to figure out where to put it in the house heh.
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May 21, 2014 17:39
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GTX760 vs. GTX770, is it worth the extra few $$ to jump up to a 770?
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May 21, 2014 18:18
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Depends on the rest of your build. For instance, I would prioritize an SSD over the 770. e: Also yeah, the 770's performance is still a good value at or below $330. There are some diminishing returns at this point obviously, but it still carries adequate price:performance. Hace fucked around with this message at 18:38 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 18:29
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Be very careful ordering from Newegg. I bought a Rosewill 7-year warranty PSU a month ago and they shipped me a unit with 5-year warranty. I called to discuss the problem and the person the phone found that the picture on the website of the item box clearly shows 5-year (in the gallery, not the product photo). It's now been over a month and that item is STILL listed on their site as having a 7-year warranty. Newegg didn't do poo poo for me and gave me the runaround. It was a mistake not to order from Amazon.
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May 21, 2014 18:48
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Hace posted:Depends on the rest of your build. For instance, I would prioritize an SSD over the 770. Didn't actually think about it that way, thanks for the input! edit: One last question, any particular reason you guys say to go with a total of 8GB over a total of 16GB for ram? Is it because the performance increase is so miniscule or am I missing something else? GramCracker fucked around with this message at 19:44 on May 21, 2014 |
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May 21, 2014 18:50
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 Stupid question incoming!So I'm on this "future-proof  " build from 2010. Here are the main specs:CPU: i7 960 3.20GHz(Stock clock) GPU: 1x GTX 480 (2nd one had to be amputated  )RAM: 12gb, 2x6 Mobo: Gigabyte x58a-ud7 At what point is it going to be useless to add in a new GPU and SSD, rather than getting a whole new computer? I'm thinking of buying when Broadwell comes out at the earliest, Skylake maybe the latest.
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May 21, 2014 20:02
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staticman posted:
Eh, for your case an incremental upgrade kinda works, overclock that Bloomfield and get a new-ish vidya card to hold you over till Skylake and then replace CPU/mobo/maybe ram.
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May 21, 2014 20:04
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I changed my build a bit: Case- Fractal Design Define Mini Memory - Crucial DDR3 8GB kit (4GBx2) DDR3 Ballistix Sport UDIMM 240pin, 1600 MT/s, PC3-12800, CL9, 1.5V Cooler - Cooler Master CPU Cooler Hyper 212 Evo Power - SeaSonic G Series 550W Video - MSI GeForce 700 Series GTX 760 2GB Twin Frozr Processor: Intel® Core™ i5-4590 Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.70 GHz) Motherboard: Asus Socket 1150 H97M-E Asus Socket 1150 H97M-E HDD: WD RED NASWARE HDD SATA 2TB 6GB/S 64MB/WD20EFRX SSD: SAMSUNG SSD 840 EVO 250GB SATAIII DESKTOP KIT (MZ-7TE250KW) I chose GTX 760 over Radeon R9 270x due to multi-screen power consumption. Now the stupid question - although i chose a "non-oveclocking" motherboard, everything will still work with my factory overclocked graphics card, right?
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May 21, 2014 20:22
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