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McPantserton posted:On that topic, do you have plans for that model if you end up redoing it? Because my husbo has definitely developed a sudden interest in doing a Court of Owls cosplay from Batman that is not unrelated to this mask... Well! That's very flattering. I definitely see the resemblance. The mask wouldn't need many tweaks to fit into that theme. We'll see how I'm feeling tomorrow -- if I do decide to redo things, I'll probably only keep this mask around as a reference for so long as it takes me to get 2.0 going. If your hubby wants it, I'm sure we can talk. 
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Jun 8, 2014 03:24
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Seriously, that looks great as it - I doubt anyone else will notice the double eye-hole angle, but if there's no rush then there's nothing wrong with making mask 2.0, which will no doubt turn out even better. As for the width, the hair strands ought to cover that up quite conveniently. One thing I might recommend is that you consider that most of the forehead will be covered by the pleated portion of the helmet, and take that into consideration when you build those areas - you might wind up wanting to omit them entirely for weight/comfort's sake. What material are you planning to use for the pleated section? Also, don't forget the weird sideways forehead eyehole thingy!
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Jun 8, 2014 05:02
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McKilligan posted:One thing I might recommend is that you consider that most of the forehead will be covered by the pleated portion of the helmet, and take that into consideration when you build those areas - you might wind up wanting to omit them entirely for weight/comfort's sake. What material are you planning to use for the pleated section? Also, don't forget the weird sideways forehead eyehole thingy! Oh, I haven't forgotten! That's going to be mounted in the helm itself -- as for constructing the helm, I have a loose plan, but I think it's going to take some experimentation, and I'm not sure I can describe my ideas adequately right now. I keep changing my mind on what materials I want to use. Cardboard and paper mache? Wonderflex? I just need a stiff core that I can wrap the fabric around, sorta. I don't want it to be super heavy, though. You're right that leaving the forehead out might save me some weight and bulk. Hrm. Thanks for all the excellent feedback and support, guys. 
my cat is norris fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jun 8, 2014 |
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Jun 8, 2014 05:16
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Any good, cheap ideas on how to make something look dusty and sun bleached? In particular greasy blue canvas like a flight deck vest? Besides leaving it in the sun or applying actual dust, since I'll be getting parts of my costume with as little as a weeks notice and that's barely enough time to get a little fade going on. And I'd rather not walk around a convention hall leaving puffs of dust in my wake. Although that would be awesome as hell.
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Jun 8, 2014 19:45
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Cat: I think the mask looks great if you want to work on the rest and don't have time to fully redo it to prevent the one eye angle you can put a small piece of black craft foam as a separator from the nose back to your face so that it helps darken the inside as well as prevent the looking through effect. But I understand the remake as well I can't even begin to tell you how many costume pieces I have remade to get them just a bit better. Speaking of costume stuff I haven't made any major progress this weekend other than I have dropped a ton of money and purchased everything for her. The only stuff I am missing now are buttons for the shell and that is if I decide I need them. Lucky me I hit all the Joann's sales perfectly though and saved a ton I can't imagine being able to afford it if it was any more costly. I went with a flannel for the shell so it will be super soft and cuddletown, And I found a really cool scalloped edge sheer for the front panel I think I might dye it a bit and ink in the embroidered flowers, I bought some crystals to put on a few spots on the obi I think I may also add them to this panel on the flower centers. Thoughts? Other then that it's just waiting for the next 6 yards of sateen to get here to finish up the patterning for the base skirt so I can start patterning the shell from those measurements. I have family in next week so hopefully I can work on some stuff a little here and there still. First all the dyes.  Now the awesome sheer panel I found, I couldn't believe I found this. 
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Jun 8, 2014 20:51
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I'm having an issue with a very small piece of my Repo mask that needs to be really resilient. The nose piece has always given me trouble. I used to use a material called Road Tuff, but it's not designed to be glued. It peels off no matter what kind of glue is used. It's actually designed as a truck bedding. So now I'm using that really thin crafters foam you can get from a hobby store for basically nothing. I gave it a backing of twill covered in a really strong glue from Tandy's Leather, and that let it hold it's shape, but it can still get damaged and bent out of shape since it's only twill and a bit of glue keeping it in place. What I need is something I can coat the foam in after giving it it's shape that will make it really, really sturdy. I don't know if there is a resin or something I can coat and sand for these pieces or what. This is a terrible picture and you can't really see the damage, but you can see the nose piece. The stuff on the inner nose is Road Tuff. 
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Jun 8, 2014 21:19
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Repostin from the cosplay photos thread since this is a better place for it quote:I'm in a show that requires me to have green skin. I've been looking into face/body paints and it seems like the best not-horribly-expensive option is Ben Nye MagiColor Liquid Facepaints, maybe with Final Seal spray. Does anyone have experience with these products (or others) and have application tips? Sadly an airbrush is likely too pricey so it'll have to go on with a sponge or brush. Also it's a show, so this has the added fun bonus (!) of needing to be something I can apply very quickly, like in 15 minutes or less. Thank you!!
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Jun 8, 2014 23:20
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Tiamat posted:Repostin from the cosplay photos thread since this is a better place for it I have to say I have used a few things and so far my favorite is Kryolan Aquacolor: http://www.cosplaysupplies.com/store.php?s=IQ9R I use this with a barrier spray and it worked well for me. I did about three layers of the barrier spray just in case and it stayed on well what I loved is that unlike some stuff it comes off with a little soap. Ref of me in the stuff sorry I don't actually have a great pic of this costume.  I made a custom color blend by chipping cakes and sifting them together and repacking the pallet but they have a large selection of colors.
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Jun 8, 2014 23:58
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The Repo Man posted:I'm having an issue with a very small piece of my Repo mask that needs to be really resilient. The nose piece has always given me trouble. I used to use a material called Road Tuff, but it's not designed to be glued. It peels off no matter what kind of glue is used. It's actually designed as a truck bedding. So now I'm using that really thin crafters foam you can get from a hobby store for basically nothing. I gave it a backing of twill covered in a really strong glue from Tandy's Leather, and that let it hold it's shape, but it can still get damaged and bent out of shape since it's only twill and a bit of glue keeping it in place. What I need is something I can coat the foam in after giving it it's shape that will make it really, really sturdy. I don't know if there is a resin or something I can coat and sand for these pieces or what. You can, in fact, coat foam in resin! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5MKupZU-wPdPblTDQjWYmYruLWNGREmx May I also suggest getting your hands on a few pieces of Worbla or Wonderflex? Gotten a lot done on Velvet this week, and am almost done. I do need to start the weapons and finish the belt, but otherwise:  There's a bunch of other progress shots on my Instagram [which I've linked previously], but I always feel bad doing a photo dump of poo poo that already exists elsewhere and I work quickly enough, I'd just be spamming the board. Doing a photoshoot in a few weeks and am really excited since it's a very mobile costume and there's gorgeous woodland.
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Jun 9, 2014 00:36
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7thBatallion posted:Any good, cheap ideas on how to make something look dusty and sun bleached? In particular greasy blue canvas like a flight deck vest? Bleach? Although you have to be very careful with it, since it's almost impossible to predict how it'll react with the dye in whatever you spray it on. Here's a before / after I posted a long time ago trying to do a similar effect -  I made a bleach / water solution in a spray bottle at about a 1:5 ratio, but it turned the blue fabric pinkish rather than fading it appropriately. I solved this by adding black ink to the solution, so that rather than pink, the sprayed areas faded to a more neutral gray color. You could experiment with much weaker bleach solutions, or use ink like I did.
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Jun 9, 2014 00:52
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Bag of Hamsters posted:You can, in fact, coat foam in resin! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL5MKupZU-wPdPblTDQjWYmYruLWNGREmx Thanks for the video link. I followed it around a bit and found some interesting resins. As for the foam I'm using, I will probably stick with the crafting foam first and see how durable it is after a few coats of resin. I just need to find somewhere nearby that I can buy it now. I'm sure I'll end up using Worbla or Wonderflex on future projects. If you want to post a bunch of pictures in a thread without creating too much clutter, just add a "t" in front of the "img" part of the tag. "timg"ing a large series of images is pretty great. You can post some massive images or image sets without breaking tables.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:41
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Not necessarily a cosplay question, but I'm making a swimsuit and my machine is not sewing the spandex at all. I have a ball point needle, and the machine works fine enough on 'regular' fabric. When sewing the spandex, the top thread doesn't go around the bobbin in the bottom, so the stitches don't 'chain' and pull out. Also, it seems like the needle is hitting the bobbin case at times, because it will be jerked sideways. The top thread has also been broken at the needle a few times. This is an older machine, and it's possible I could get a new one, but I'm worried the new machine won't work either because spandex. I've tried stabilizer paper, wax paper, cooking parchment paper under the spandex, but none of it worked. Can anyone supply any spandex sewing tips? EDIT: I've messed around with stitch length, width, and thread tension and nothing makes a difference.
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Jun 9, 2014 01:43
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Amykinz posted:Not necessarily a cosplay question, but I'm making a swimsuit and my machine is not sewing the spandex at all. I have a ball point needle, and the machine works fine enough on 'regular' fabric. When sewing the spandex, the top thread doesn't go around the bobbin in the bottom, so the stitches don't 'chain' and pull out. Also, it seems like the needle is hitting the bobbin case at times, because it will be jerked sideways. The top thread has also been broken at the needle a few times. This is an older machine, and it's possible I could get a new one, but I'm worried the new machine won't work either because spandex. I've tried stabilizer paper, wax paper, cooking parchment paper under the spandex, but none of it worked. Can anyone supply any spandex sewing tips? Have you tried replacing the needle with a new one? Maybe it's not puncturing through if the needle is old. It could also just be your machine absolutely hates spandex with the white hot fury of ten thousand dying suns. A friend of mine has thirty plus years of sewing experience. If no one can get an answer for you that works, I'll try to get in contact with her and see what she thinks. She is used to working with really high end machines though, you are probably using what she considers a "baby machine."
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Jun 9, 2014 01:58
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I bought new needles specifically for the spandex, so that's not the issue either. I even went back to the old needle just to MAKE SURE. I've sewn for about 25 years now but I've never worked with spandex, so this is all new and very frustrating. 
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Jun 9, 2014 02:54
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Are you using a stretch or zig zag stitch? It is also likely that your fabric just isn't feeding correctly. Collette Patterns and Craftsy both have some good resources for sewing stretch fabric.
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Jun 9, 2014 03:56
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I love this. It's gorgeous work.
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Jun 9, 2014 04:16
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Funhilde posted:Are you using a stretch or zig zag stitch? It is also likely that your fabric just isn't feeding correctly. Collette Patterns and Craftsy both have some good resources for sewing stretch fabric. I ran through every stitch my machine had, just to see if any adjustment I could make was the issue. I'm going to head over to my mom's and try out her machine tomorrow, and if that doesn't work, might just get a new machine.
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Jun 9, 2014 04:55
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McKilligan posted:Bleach? Although you have to be very careful with it, since it's almost impossible to predict how it'll react with the dye in whatever you spray it on. Here's a before / after I posted a long time ago trying to do a similar effect - Oh, God. That looks exactly like what I want. I'll try it on the inside, since that part isn't coated in a nice layer of baked in shoe polish. When I get around to it I'll post pictures of what I got thus far. The hell? Full strength bleach had absolutely no effect. It's actually a darker shade of blue? Kilo147 fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jun 9, 2014 |
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Jun 9, 2014 05:10
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7thBatallion posted:Oh, God. That looks exactly like what I want. I'll try it on the inside, since that part isn't coated in a nice layer of baked in shoe polish. When I get around to it I'll post pictures of what I got thus far. Huh. No idea what kind of fabric / dye would do that. Maybe nylon?
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Jun 9, 2014 14:51
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Synthetics are generally a lot more bleach resistant. If it is a nylon or poly or wahtever, you may have to just go HAM on it's rear end. Like, roll that poo poo around in mud -> let it dry out in the sun -> do it all over again. Do this constantly, all day, for like a week, and you should see something in the right direction.
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Jun 9, 2014 20:53
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sforzacio posted:Synthetics are generally a lot more bleach resistant. If it is a nylon or poly or wahtever, you may have to just go HAM on it's rear end. Like, roll that poo poo around in mud -> let it dry out in the sun -> do it all over again. Do this constantly, all day, for like a week, and you should see something in the right direction. Doing it that way, how do I keep it from smelling or getting gross as hell? Hey! It did fade! It just took many, many hours...And it's barely noticeable.
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Jun 9, 2014 23:35
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I wish I had a better answer sorry, just keep scrubbing that guy with mud and letting it sun dry. You could try acetone/nail polish remover on a small portion of it and see if that does anything to it if it's a synthetic.
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Jun 10, 2014 02:11
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You really don't want to use bleach on polyester. That cloth will fall apart way faster in a non-intentional way. If you're removing stuff, there ARE oxygen-based bleaches. Get polyester dye in a darker shade. Sponge it on. For lighter spots, scrub in white fabric paint [water it down and really rub it in there]. Use sandpaper in spots.
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Jun 10, 2014 03:24
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Thanks for the pattern help earlier in the thread.  It really did save my rear end on the hat. Here's a picture of me from a shoot (oh god, I really should've pulled the hat down before the shots here)! My next planned cosplay is Zelda from Skyward Sword, but I'm sorta leaning toward someone with a cute pixie cut or bob... Long wigs are a hell of a job. 7thBatallion posted:Hey! It did fade! It just took many, many hours...And it's barely noticeable.  As mentioned, you pretty much have to repeat the process daily until you get the results you want. Good luck--I'm sure it'll come through soon!
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Jun 11, 2014 21:51
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Making a Scarlet Witch headdress and using wonderflex for the first time. I was thinking of doing double layers but not sure if I should use craft foam or regular felt for the part that will be against my head. Also what glue works best for attaching fabric to the front of it.
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Jun 11, 2014 23:09
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Well, we're back to this point -- (Norris was concerned.)  Going to apply another layer of paper mache before beginning the paper clay part, now that I've done a lot of STUFF with masking tape. Chose a sliiightly different style this time after the recommendation to trim some forehead down kinda stuck with me. my cat is norris fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Jun 12, 2014 |
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Jun 12, 2014 01:18
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The patch I asked a fellow goon friend to make me came out amazing! I'm still a complete novice when it comes to making my own costumes, but the thrill I get from having all the pieces come together are going to keep me going for a long while.
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Jun 12, 2014 02:20
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Funhilde posted:Making a Scarlet Witch headdress and using wonderflex for the first time. I was thinking of doing double layers but not sure if I should use craft foam or regular felt for the part that will be against my head. Also what glue works best for attaching fabric to the front of it. A sandwich of Wonderflex/EVA foam/Wonderflex works best in my experience, then you can line the headdress with whatever is comfortable. As for glue, I've never gone wrong with e6000.
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Jun 12, 2014 23:58
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Two questions: 1: Where can I purchase bright yellow dress pants? 2: How do I add pinstripes to bright yellow dress pants?
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Jun 13, 2014 00:11
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DoctorWhat posted:Two questions: Hmm... 1: Obtain white dress pants. Dye yellow. 2: Bias tape?
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Jun 13, 2014 00:15
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foxatee posted:Hmm... What's a bias tape? Is it like painter's tape?
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Jun 13, 2014 00:16
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Bias tape is a strip of fabric that has been cut on the bias of a fabric. Without getting into details, it's just super drapey. You'd have to sew it on to make stripes and it'd suck rear end to make pinstrips with. Uh, take a fabric marker to a ruler?
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Jun 13, 2014 00:28
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sforzacio posted:Bias tape is a strip of fabric that has been cut on the bias of a fabric. Without getting into details, it's just super drapey. You'd have to sew it on to make stripes and it'd suck rear end to make pinstrips with. Uh, take a fabric marker to a ruler? Well, yeah, it would suck. You could use fabric glue, though. I'm not sure how well it would stay on. But it would probably look better than fabric marker. But if you go fabric marker, get a glob drat fabric marker and not just a sharpie or something. That poo poo will bleed like a mofo. Op should ask in the sewing thread~
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Jun 13, 2014 03:38
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Bag of Hamsters posted:A sandwich of Wonderflex/EVA foam/Wonderflex works best in my experience, then you can line the headdress with whatever is comfortable. Thanks. Got it all cut out. May have to go a bit cheaper than I'd like due to time contraints. Just finished a Wienerlicious costume from Chuck and a Sith Robe/tunic get up for some clients so I haven't had as much time to work on my own stuff.
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Jun 13, 2014 15:03
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So here's more painting and then some weathering. Maybe the final step is to drag it through the dirt outside. At some point I'll have to move on to the rest of the outfit. At least it looks dirty now.
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Jun 14, 2014 21:41
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I've been working on a little something for Dragon Con this year. I wanted to do a ole 1950s scifi theme kinda thing so Im doing a bubble helmet jetpack. My friend is working on a robot. Here is the back of the jetpack.
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Jun 15, 2014 00:38
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Terec posted:I've been working on a little something for Dragon Con this year. I wanted to do a ole 1950s scifi theme kinda thing so Im doing a bubble helmet jetpack. My friend is working on a robot. Here is the back of the jetpack. Hoooooly poo poo. That is loving cool.
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Jun 15, 2014 02:08
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That is rad as gently caress, I love the lights! I'm so excited guys, I did my first 2 Warhammer pulls today out of 1mm thick ABS!! Here is the best photo of me that has ever existed holding up the front.  Don't be afraid to ask for my number, I know I'm hot. Seriously though, the vacform pulls came out soooo well (although there was a horrifying moment with the back where the entire form completely crumpled, but when we released the pressure it reformed and the pull was good  ). Basically the plan is now that I have this super-thick, texturey base set pulled, I'm going to do all my detail sculpting in clay and do another set of pulls out of a much thinner grade of non-textured styrene so the detail stays sharp. Then I'll epoxy and rivet the 2 pulls together!
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Jun 15, 2014 04:31
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Well I mostly sorted out how to use the wonderflex. I didn't give myself enough time to back it with something or sand it to make it a bit smoother around the edges. Had a great time in the costume though and got a bunch of smiles and met several "Dads" with my brother. I made the bodice and the cape as well. I didn't take many process photos but it is stretch satin and I did some boning and also used a corset fabric inside to give it structure. 
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Jun 15, 2014 05:55
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McPantserton posted:That is rad as gently caress, I love the lights! OMG that is so amazing. If I made more armor stuff I think I would have to follow suit but I stick to what I know which is fabric lol. Speaking of fabric I found the base, base dress for Lapras in the material I want for $2 at a thrift store the material I wanted on line was like $18 a yard. So altering here we go. The zipper is busted so I will be replacing that and I need to remove the strap and gross ruffle flowers but I will save the ruffles to add to my shoes when I make those. I will be adding in some heavy interfacing to hold up the top proper so I don't embarrass myself. Then it's adding the pleated fabric layer on top. Other things I found at the thrift store that I didn't photo are the base shoes another $2 and a $6 full length wedding petticoat for when I make Princess Hilda. I love thrift stores.    All of the rest of the fabric is here so I am going to work on the cage some today and through out the week I will be cutting and stitching pieces together to get ready to dye them next weekend. Sense we have had out of town guests all week I haven't been able to get much work done unfortunately. But I have to make up for lost time as I am running out of time.
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Jun 15, 2014 16:05
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