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Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
Yup, that's it. Smaller rear contact patch means no ability to put power down when bike power started going up.

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

red19fire posted:

Thanks, I figured as much. Can I do this without removing the carbs from the engine? I hate that :effort: What would you recommend for a 90 degree screwdriver to get the 2 and 3 bowls off?

Well.. maybe... I wouldn't want to try it. Removing your carbs is a 10 minute job. Your airbox attachemnt screws come off, and the airbox slides back. It's not a big deal.

Bugdrvr posted:

I doubt you could get them apart with them installed.
You may be able to get the outer ones apart but not the inners.
I'd also grab a set of the little rubber plugs that go under the pilot jets (you can get them on eBay for around $10).
They disintegrate after millions of years of soaking in fuel and will make it a bitch to get them back together.
Also, I would definitely replace those intake boot o-rings. My idle got quite a bit better when I did mine.

Don't remove the carbs from the rack. But yes, it's time to replace those intake o-rings. Stuff from the hardware store will harden and crack every 2-3 years. you can buy silicone ones that last forever.

ChewedFood posted:

Well i disassembled everything to check for rust because the oil was very emulsified and sitting for ten years like that. So obviously i removed the cylinder and according to every mechanic ever if you take the piston out of the cylinder you better be putting new stuff back in.

The book would be very helpful to me. I learned my job in the navy (nuclear machinist) by reading obsessively detailed books that describe the purpose of every little piece of every little component and the mechanics behind how it accomplishes its purpose. So any Navy guys out there: know of a reactor-plant-manual-specific book about combustion engines?

You're gonna drive yourself nuts. There are two ways to handle old engines. Replace what's needed, or replace everything. Your option there :-) The rings, and bores, wear to match each other. So long as they're good to start with, they're still good now.

Give me some time, I can dig up the sort of books you want.


Gstu posted:

Update on the Suzuki GS500 from a few pages back:

Battery won't charge on the trickle charger. Got the tank off and the gas drained- it was a darker color than it should have been, and there were lots of rust flakes that came out when I rinsed the tank. During the draining, it was going really slow. I took the petcock off and the lines were clogged to the point of being barely able to see through them.

I've seen options procedures for cleaing out rusted tanks and re-lining them, but I think I'm going to take the tank to a shop and see if they can take care of it for a lot less than buying a new tank ($130 or so) would cost.

Up next: oil change, taking a good look at the tires, and continuing to just get the bike clean.

Is the tank leaking? If it's not leaking, electrolytic rust removal is your best plan. Lining tanks can get you some months/years, but that never seems to be a lasting solution. Start searching ebay.

also.. if you do some mechanical rust removal, you can just leave the rust in there without any real problems.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Z3n posted:

Yup, that's it. Smaller rear contact patch means no ability to put power down when bike power started going up.

To some extent the tail wagged the dog, too. Back in the day when tyres were poo poo, there was an upper ceiling to horsepower because there was simply no real way to put it down. The revolution in tyre construction that happened during the 80's opened up a previously unattainable world of power and lean angle.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe
I've also got a half-remembered factoid in the back of my mind about the difference in effective circumference of the tyres as you lean over being beneficial in some way - possibly by changing effective rake or castor angle? I don't know, there's so much voodoo science around bike dynamics that it's hard to tell the real from the plausible-sounding bollocks (c.f. most posts in this thread :supaburn:)

red19fire
May 26, 2010

It's so that when you turn, the rear is higher than the front. Thus, you're going down hill and can go faster. :eng99:

mainks
Jun 13, 2013

Here's the status update on the mechanic holding my bike hostage:

Today is day 14, the bike is done. He told me that he has had the carbs in and out of the bike 4 times, and that rust from the tank kept on fouling them. He then told me that he steam cleaned the tank, and that he thinks that he got all of the debris out. He also told me that he installed two filters, one on either side of the fuel vacuum if I recall correctly.

What is the likelihood that this thing ends up dying on me in the next couple of weeks?


Meanwhile I'll hunt for a first gen sv650 tank.

nsaP
May 4, 2004

alright?

astrollinthepork posted:

Yeah I have, and I've tried that but haven't had good results. Every stem on every earbud I've ever had are too short. I'm probably going to try JVC marshmallows. The tips are similar to earbud foam judging by the pait my friend had and I think they go for about $15. The best pair of earbuds for motorcycling I've ever had was a pair of skullcandys with rubber tips. Sound quality was meh but I felt like it did a decent job of blocking noise.

I'm taking off the 17th to get in Asheville that night, will be in Deal's Gap on either the 18th or 19th to do a few runs so I'll be sure to keep an eye out.

Yeah I'll be around. Gonna camp near Deals tomorrow and the 18th, then head towards Asheville and camp here on the 19th http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g49023-d630021-Reviews-Mile_High_Campground-Cherokee_North_Carolina.html before meeting buddies on the 20th. I know I'm doing the Cherohala/129 triangle on the 18th but 19th is up in the air, if you have any ideas or want to meet up then just pm me.

ChewedFood
Jul 22, 2012
Nerobro- The piston set I ordered was canceled by the seller today. Maybe the world is telling me something? I'll probably still do new stuff but we will see.

And thanks about looking for books for me.

DEUCE SLUICE
Feb 6, 2004

I dreamt I was an old dog, stuck in a honeypot. It was horrifying.

mainks posted:

Here's the status update on the mechanic holding my bike hostage:

Today is day 14, the bike is done. He told me that he has had the carbs in and out of the bike 4 times, and that rust from the tank kept on fouling them. He then told me that he steam cleaned the tank, and that he thinks that he got all of the debris out. He also told me that he installed two filters, one on either side of the fuel vacuum if I recall correctly.

What is the likelihood that this thing ends up dying on me in the next couple of weeks?


Meanwhile I'll hunt for a first gen sv650 tank.

With all that work, why wouldn't you POR-15 the tank to seal it up for good?

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
How often do you guys change fork oil? It's one of the few things I've not done on my transalp since I've felt no need to do it. From what I can find in the service manual and haynes it's an unscheduled maintainance item. The fork seals are perfect with no leaks. It is a really simple operation on the early transalps though, since it has drainage bolts on the forks.

Edit: I also have no records from POs on when it was last done.

Supradog fucked around with this message at 09:40 on Jun 17, 2014

Backov
Mar 28, 2010

DEUCE SLUICE posted:

With all that work, why wouldn't you POR-15 the tank to seal it up for good?

To rephrase this - use muriatic acid to clean out your tank and then coat it with POR-15. Stop loving around. :)

(EDIT: Or electrolysis, or nuclear waste, or gamma rays or whatever your local source of rust cleaner is.)

Tanbo
Nov 19, 2013

I had a question I couldn't answer too. I was talking to a friend that hasn't rode much, he noticed I only put the left foot down, and he asked how I make sure the bike falls to the left instead of the right, and I didn't really know, I don't know how it's done, I just do it. My best guess is it's like countersteering, I'm slightly turning the wheel to the right to make the bike lean left and don't really think about it?

Shimrod
Apr 15, 2007

race tires on road are a great idea, ask me!

Tell him the exact same as you do a pushbike or anything you're balancing.

Personally, my foot goes down, and if I need to move over that side more, I do it.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Tanbo posted:

My best guess is it's like countersteering, I'm slightly turning the wheel to the right to make the bike lean left and don't really think about it?

That is exactly what you're doing.

High Protein
Jul 12, 2009

Supradog posted:

How often do you guys change fork oil? It's one of the few things I've not done on my transalp since I've felt no need to do it. From what I can find in the service manual and haynes it's an unscheduled maintainance item. The fork seals are perfect with no leaks. It is a really simple operation on the early transalps though, since it has drainage bolts on the forks.

Edit: I also have no records from POs on when it was last done.

For my bike it's a Large Maintenance, i.e. every 10000 miles, item, but I'm curious to know how much it actually matters. With upside down forks it's a pain in the rear end so I don't feel like doing it myself.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Fork oil degrades, and degraded fork oil affects your dampening performance.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I was riding to work on girly's bike today thinking "Boy this lovely Korean bike has been a reliable little commuter!" and then the throttle stuck at 4,500 rpm just as I reached work.

The reason is simple. The throttle cable is basically a bicycle brake cable. At the carburettor end it just sits in a little slotted cup. There is no method of adjustment whatsoever and what had happened was the cable sheath had partly slipped back out of the cup and ridden up on the side, thus jamming the throttle partly open. You can see what I mean here:



It's on the right, just above the choke cable. How can I stop this happening again? I can't figure out how to keep the cable solidly locked in there instead of just 'floating' against the pull of the throttle itself. I don't feel like buying an entire new cable purely because it's gotten too slack to stay firmly in there.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
It doesn't have a push cable? Madness!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

One solitary cable, no adjustment of any kind. I'm thinking about just trying to squash the cup bracket thing down so it permanently grips the sheath.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
What is the best way to align the forks again after you pull the fork legs?

astrollinthepork
Sep 24, 2007

When you come at the king, you best not miss, snitch

HE KNOWS
So uh, does anyone near Columbus,OH have a shift linkage rod they don't need? Mine fell off somewhere on 270 and a rod with oppositely directed threaded ends isn't going to be something I'm gonna find at Wal Mart. The only idea I have is getting a wire hanger but I don't think that'll work so well. I'm stuck in a lot getting WiFi for now. Fairly far from home.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.
I bet you could make something up with a threaded eyebolt (it'll go into one end) and some baling wire, but you're not even likely to find metric-threaded anything at Wal-Mart in Columbus.

If you're willing to replace some more parts when you get home, a coat hanger wire and some 5-minute epoxy might be a decent stopgap.

e: I also seem to remember some story about someone in your situation clamping a pair of vise-grips onto the shift shaft and using it as a ghetto suicide shifter. If you have a decently powerful engine, the right gearing, and a lucky ride home you might never have to leave third gear.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jun 18, 2014

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011

astrollinthepork posted:

So uh, does anyone near Columbus,OH have a shift linkage rod they don't need? Mine fell off somewhere on 270 and a rod with oppositely directed threaded ends isn't going to be something I'm gonna find at Wal Mart. The only idea I have is getting a wire hanger but I don't think that'll work so well. I'm stuck in a lot getting WiFi for now. Fairly far from home.

Two home depot turnbuckles joined by a bolt and nut. Judicious application of zip ties may also be required.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

ERM... Actually I have stellar scores on the surveys, and every year students tell me that my classes are the best ones they’ve ever taken.
Ah, a turnbuckle, that's an excellent idea. I couldn't think of where to get a reverse-threaded rod in a pinch but that would do well. Hopefully you can find one that's metric.

apseudonym
Feb 25, 2011

Well the threads for my right spark plug are stripped :suicide:.

Advice? I dont have the tools nor experience to do a Helicoil. Everything else on the bike is good and I was going to sell it since I bought my triple :smith:.Anyone in the bay area want a cheap Ninja 500? I'm not sure I want to deal with this :smith:. I don't even know how I'm going to get it home.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.
Throw it up for 800 bucks on barf and someone will probably buy it. To do the job right it's a pull the head job, less right, it could be done in the frame, vaccuming out the cylinder afterwards.

Chichevache
Feb 17, 2010

One of the funniest posters in GIP.

Just not intentionally.
If you're going as cheap as $800 I may know someone interested in it.

apseudonym
Feb 25, 2011

Chichevache posted:

If you're going as cheap as $800 I may know someone interested in it.

I'll think about it. It is a bit lower than I'd rather sell it for but factoring in the cost of getting it fixed and :effort: I might go that low. I bought it for only 2k 5 years ago anyways.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
So I'm assuming that the damper rod locknut height and protrusion of the rebound adjuster through the fork cap are related and that if I set the locknut height wrong I could have the adjuster protruding too much and not be able to get the full adjustment range out of the rebound... correct?

I probably should have checked that before I put the forks back together. Oh well. Learning is fun.

Ola
Jul 19, 2004

apseudonym posted:

Well the threads for my right spark plug are stripped :suicide:.

Advice? I dont have the tools nor experience to do a Helicoil. Everything else on the bike is good and I was going to sell it since I bought my triple :smith:.Anyone in the bay area want a cheap Ninja 500? I'm not sure I want to deal with this :smith:. I don't even know how I'm going to get it home.

Dang. Are the threads completely unusable? If the plug won't even tighten up a tiny bit, I suppose it's theoretically possible to glue it in with some metal epoxy stuff, ride home carefully, then drill and Time-Sert at home. Or, back of a truck, then Time-Sert. Or, and this might be the painless move, post predicament on this (check) and a Ninja-forum, let someone who knows how to fix it get a good deal.

E: this sure looked like it had less replies in my browser.

Chichevache
Feb 17, 2010

One of the funniest posters in GIP.

Just not intentionally.

apseudonym posted:

I'll think about it. It is a bit lower than I'd rather sell it for but factoring in the cost of getting it fixed and :effort: I might go that low. I bought it for only 2k 5 years ago anyways.

No worries. If you do decide to sell PM me or post in here. A Ninja is my friend's dream bike and his dad does a lot of car restoration, so I'm hoping he has the cash and his dad has the time and means. Personally I have no idea how difficult it would be to repair.


Z3n said to post on BARF, so I assume you're in the Bay?

Edit
Lol. Just noticed your original post confirms that you're in the Bay.

karms
Jan 22, 2006

by Nyc_Tattoo
Yam Slacker

BlackMK4 posted:

What is the best way to align the forks again after you pull the fork legs?

Last time I had to, this worked out like charm: Put the bike on a stand, loosen the top clamps, push down on the handlebars a bunch of times, tighten top clamps.

Catatron Prime
Aug 23, 2010

IT ME



Toilet Rascal

astrollinthepork posted:

So uh, does anyone near Columbus,OH have a shift linkage rod they don't need? Mine fell off somewhere on 270 and a rod with oppositely directed threaded ends isn't going to be something I'm gonna find at Wal Mart. The only idea I have is getting a wire hanger but I don't think that'll work so well. I'm stuck in a lot getting WiFi for now. Fairly far from home.

Probably too late to be much help here, but if you'd like, I've got a truck and a place you can safely store and work on the bike till you get a new part up in northwest Columbus. Just in case you had to get a ride home and leave it somewhere.

Feel free to ping me at six one 4-five 3 five-6042 if there's anything I can do.

Z3n
Jul 21, 2007

I think the point is Z3n is a space cowboy on the edge of a frontier unknown to man, he's out there pushing the limits, trail braking into the abyss. Finding out where the edge of the razor is, turning to face the darkness and revving his 690 into it's vast gaze. You gotta live this to learn it bro.

BlackMK4 posted:

So I'm assuming that the damper rod locknut height and protrusion of the rebound adjuster through the fork cap are related and that if I set the locknut height wrong I could have the adjuster protruding too much and not be able to get the full adjustment range out of the rebound... correct?

I probably should have checked that before I put the forks back together. Oh well. Learning is fun.

Yuuuuup.

Gillingham
Nov 16, 2011
Help with wind buffeting. My versys is absolutely fine with just me on with regards to buffeting, but a week ago the girlfriend was on the back and we hit the freeway for the first time.

Whatever change in aerodynamics her being behind me caused, turned us both into bobble-heads. Is this just kind of a :dealwithit: thing, or are there small adjustments we can do to help minimize it. I think on the return trip she sat a bit further back, which helped a tiny bit but it was still pretty drat annoying.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Get your girlfriend her own bike.

Bonus! Instant riding buddy!

Kilersquirrel
Oct 16, 2004
My little sister is awesome and bought me this account.
The vortexes that are shedding off of your helmet are catching hers, and the vacuum she's leaving is adding to the one your head makes and causing some kind of feedback loop. Plus she's probably bumping her helmet against yours like crazy if you don't ride 2-up frequently, her neck muscles probably aren't strong enough or used to being buffeted constantly by the wind at speed.


If you lean forward a bit and she drops her head down to keep the highest part of it lower than the highest part of yours it will probably help. If your heights don't allow that, just wait til your neck muscles get stronger I guess.

That is, if you can't talk her into getting her own. Or if she's a klutz and lacks the ability to quickly respond to change like mine is/does.

astrollinthepork
Sep 24, 2007

When you come at the king, you best not miss, snitch

HE KNOWS
Found a Wal-Mart at like 1AM and a turnbuckle and zip ties is what I came up with. Starting from 6th gear at red lights was a bitch. Downshifting worked fine, as all the shift lever has to do is pull. Upshifting didn't work so well. The turnbuckle end would just sort of rotate around the lever so there was no forward force applied. I got it working sorta okay after screwing around on the side of the road for an hour.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011

astrollinthepork posted:

Found a Wal-Mart at like 1AM and a turnbuckle and zip ties is what I came up with. Starting from 6th gear at red lights was a bitch. Downshifting worked fine, as all the shift lever has to do is pull. Upshifting didn't work so well. The turnbuckle end would just sort of rotate around the lever so there was no forward force applied. I got it working sorta okay after screwing around on the side of the road for an hour.

Well, now you have a story. Also, turnbuckles are like petcocks: they both have hard-to-remember, funny names, and they both are things that are very useful, and are probably the only thing that'll work in the specific scenario you have when you need them. I loving knew it.

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BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

Z3n posted:

Yuuuuup.

:suicide: I figured as much. Oh well.

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