|
leica posted:I read somewhere that it's not good to use different oil filters from other Mazdas, something about oil pressures and poo poo but it could have been completely baseless. As long as the bypass spring pressure works out you should be fine. It really matters on rotaries and Subarus which run monumentally high oil pressures (45psi+ at medium-high RPM on a Subaru, somewhere in the same range on a 13B/Renesis - you can even use an RX8 filter in the Subarus quite happily and vice versa) so having a low bypass spring pressure (way below the 23psi that Subaru recommends, on lovely Boschs I've seen under 12psi) means you run the risk of getting a lot of unfiltered poo poo in the engine even past cold start when the filter gets turbulent and needs to bypass the filter restriction to feed the engine. Miatas are a lot lower pressure (25-30psi, if my oil pressure gauge is to be trusted) so there's probably less pressure drop across the filter and you don't need such a strong bypass spring. Pretty much every other Mazda filter is going to have a spring at that rate, I bet. On cold start the bypass spring is designed to bypass the filter anyway so it doesn't matter what you have in that case. This site says that the bypass pressure on a stock filter is 14psi so you should have no trouble even finding that over in Chinesium parts land (although the Fram filter media looks like it's such garbage that the duty cycle for the bypass is something like 50%). http://mymiata.paladinmicro.com/MiataOFilters.htm Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jun 10, 2014 |
#
?
Jun 10, 2014 04:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 11:44 |
|
|
Just managed to lock my keys in the trunk for the first time since getting the car ~2.5 years ago. Luckily I already unlocked it before going back to check something, and the armrest lock is useless enough that it could be easilly pulled open without even breaking anything 
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 18:56
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:Just managed to lock my keys in the trunk for the first time since getting the car ~2.5 years ago. Luckily I already unlocked it before going back to check something, and the armrest lock is useless enough that it could be easilly pulled open without even breaking anything I found this out when I had my garage door opener in it and locked it up. I was able to pry it up enough to fish out the opener without having to take the key out of the ignition. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 19:16
|
|
|
I did that on a '90 with no armrest pull. Fun times 
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2014 19:16
|
|
|
Two questions: 1) I've been putting Costco 87 in my NA. Any reason to put 91 in? 2) Does anyone else have more panel gap between their hood and closed popup light on one side than the other? I've seen this on other NAs, and I have a little bit on mine. It's like the hood arcs up just a little bit above the line with the closed popup light. Eg this gap:  Is bigger than this: 
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 00:45
|
|
|
blk posted:2) Does anyone else have more panel gap between their hood and closed popup light on one side than the other? I've seen this on other NAs, and I have a little bit on mine. It's like the hood arcs up just a little bit above the line with the closed popup light. I told you that when you first showed the pictures. Common thing with Miatas. GENTLY pull up on the lip of the headlight that hangs out on its own at the top of the lid. Pull it until it lines up with the hood. It makes a HUGE difference in looks when it's properly aligned. With the hangy-out part, it's easy to lean on it or against it when you're under the hood... a lot of them have pushed-down lids.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 00:55
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Mine has bad gap, but it's because I left a socket wrench on the fender sill when I closed the hood, now it's permanently bent and I've pulled up the light cover as far as it will go 
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 00:59
|
|
|
Are you running 16 degrees of base timing? No? You aren't loving retarded (technically you are but uh...)? Put 87 in it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 01:00
|
|
|
Phone posted:Are you running 16 degrees of base timing? No? You aren't loving retarded (technically you are but uh...)? Retarded for asking, or do you know something about me that I don't?
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 01:04
|
|
|
blk posted:Retarded for asking, or do you know something about me that I don't? Your ignition timing is retarded.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 01:05
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I told you that when you first showed the pictures. Common thing with Miatas. GENTLY pull up on the lip of the headlight that hangs out on its own at the top of the lid. Pull it until it lines up with the hood. It makes a HUGE difference in looks when it's properly aligned. Somehow I missed your original heads up but thanks for the tip, it worked well.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 01:09
|
|
|
blk posted:Retarded for asking, or do you know something about me that I don't? If you were advanced, you'd need higher octane fuel. But you're retarded, so 87 is fine.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 01:11
|
|
|
You can adjust the CAS to set the base timing advance from 10 degrees to what's considered "safe" of 16 degrees. If you're running past 14 degrees of base timing advance, you need to run premium or risk detonation. Hence "advance" and "retarded" and using retarded as an ableist pejorative. If you're trying to make N/A power on a stock ECU using the CAS advancing technique, technically you're not chasing after phantom power gains; however, you'll be wind up better off putting a megasplooge on it versus tossing money into the 91/93 octane bump for adjusting base timing.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 02:57
|
|
|
Yesterday I got my '90 running on a Megasquirt DIYPNP I built myself. I don't know why I find this so surprising. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 11:15
|
|
|
I know I would, but then I'm terrible at soldering.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 15:57
|
|
|
Before I started I had no IC board soldering experience, and would reliably gently caress up soldering wires together with a gun. I got a practice kit for school children off Amazon. It flashes some LEDs and has a siren.
|
|
#
?
Jun 13, 2014 16:09
|
|
|
FYI, I just noticed that RockAuto has Robbins tops for way the gently caress cheaper than Moss. Like $200 off, with way cheaper shipping.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2014 16:12
|
|
|
Somebody gets to do what everyone dreamed of, Mazda is even paying for it. Should be fairly exciting to see how the car goes internationally. http://www.nzherald.co.nz/motoring/news/article.cfm?c_id=9&objectid=11275662 quote:...2014-spec Mazda MX-5, which is currently being built to international specification at high-profile Auckland race fabrication workshop TBR.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 09:46
|
|
|
Anphear posted:Somebody gets to do what everyone dreamed of, Mazda is even paying for it. Should be fairly exciting to see how the car goes internationally. One the one hand I enjoy how reliable the BP is. On the other though BRAAABRAPRAPRAP  In other news, I think my driveshaft is on the way out. I noticed a squeaking from under the car while engine braking and while in reverse it turns into more of a grinding noise. Internet says that the driveshaft is the most likely culprit. Anyone bought the 949 steel shaft? Apparently it has serviceable u-joints and the price ain't bad either. http://949racing.com/Miata-Driveshaft.aspx
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 11:53
|
|
|
Driveshafts on the Miata basically never fail because of the design of the PPF. Go post on MT or something.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 14:57
|
|
|
Anphear posted:Somebody gets to do what everyone dreamed of, Mazda is even paying for it. Should be fairly exciting to see how the car goes internationally. Want. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 17:01
|
|
|
Yeah that's pretty drat awesome. Not so awesome but still pretty nice, some dude on our local forum is selling his ex-Mini Cooper M45 supercharger for a reasonable price. However he had it on an NA 1.6 while I have an NBFL 1.8 and neither of us know if it'd fit or do anything worthwhile on my car. As I understand, he's selling almost the complete kit, but not the belt, ECU or injectors (that I assume might be needed). Does anyone know it this would work and not be a complete waste of time? My hope of speeding up the car are basically limited to trolling the trade sections of forums and our ebay clone, as there's no way I'd drop like 5k on a new kit.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 18:44
|
|
|
You need an ECU, but you probably can get away with the stock injectors. Also likely that none of the brackets will transfer over from the Mini 1.6.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 18:56
|
|
|
I think mobby means the seller had it on a 1.6L NA Miata, not the Cooper 1.6?
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 19:32
|
|
|
Man I'm glad I checked, the drain channels are already plugged again. If I hadn't cleaned them the car would've flooded in this storm heading this way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 20:42
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I think mobby means the seller had it on a 1.6L NA Miata, not the Cooper 1.6? Yeah, the SC is originally from a Mini-whatever, but the guy had it installed on a 1.6 NA.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 21:32
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:Man I'm glad I checked, the drain channels are already plugged again. If I hadn't cleaned them the car would've flooded in this storm heading this way. Something is wrong if they're filling up with junk that fast.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2014 21:33
|
|
|
Goober Peas posted:Something is wrong if they're filling up with junk that fast. Or they were seriously packed and this second clog is residual crap. How much water did you put through after you got the drains clear, Rhyno?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 00:54
|
|
|
I came out to the car one day to the entire back deck carpet molded over. The car had been washed a week prior and the drains seemed to flow just fine. I got it up on ramps and could feel a tight clog on the passenger's side. The blockage ended up being a little 8mm flanged machine nut and I still have no clue where it came from but it looked like it had been in there quite a while.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 01:10
|
|
|
Phone posted:Driveshafts on the Miata basically never fail because of the design of the PPF. Go post on MT or something. Are you bitter because I stopped playing CS with you or something? I posted here because most of you folks can usually provide some backup diagnosis. However, I don't really need it anymore because while I was under the car doing an oil change today I gave the shaft a few tugs (  ) and it's definitely crunchy in the u-joint department.So yeah I guess what I'm asking now is: Have any of you folks replaced a driveshaft yet, and what did you get for your replacement?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 04:08
|
|
|
I'm at the beach for a week and you've basically unlocked Miata hard mode. I hope you're happy with yourself, BEACH BUM. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 04:12
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Or they were seriously packed and this second clog is residual crap. How much water did you put through after you got the drains clear, Rhyno? Last time? About a gallon to each side. Same thing this time but I also hit it with the air gun to help clear anything leftover. Despite this it doesn't change my enjoyment of the car. Pouring rain and I threw the top down today on the way home.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2014 04:14
|
|
|
Well I went ahead and ordered the 949 steel shaft, $300 to my door. I've done countless ujoints on my trucks so at least if it ever needs it I'll be able to take care of the problem in a jiffy. Also, grease gun on 'em every time I do the oil change should help as well. I am so glad that the driveshaft is like a ten minute job on this car with an airgun.
|
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2014 16:23
|
|
|
Right, new-to-me car and I could use some pointers. 1995 1.8 "popular options" model or whatever it was - AC and power windows. It's been pissing down rain for the last week and some water got into the trunk. The sunken well area feels slightly damp and a roll of shop towels I had down there got half soaked, along with the Haynes manual. Not really sure how the water got in there. The rubber seal-stuff around the edge of the trunk lid looks in good shape. Ideas? Also is there a drain in the bottom of that area, or do I need to do something to dry that out? I can't see how to lift the carpet up to check. edit: cutting that bit about the jack, I see it now. edit v.2: got the carpeting halfway out. Moisture starts on the lefthand raised portion that divides the jack compartment from the lowered main area. Jack area dry. Lowered area has that under-carpet layer that is quite damp and coming apart, needs replacing once I figure out where the moisture is coming from. Found a drain point in the lowered area but left the plug in: feels like a "there's a foot of water in the trunk" emergency drain. Underside of the trunk lid feels dry all around. TheNothingNew fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jun 21, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2014 22:41
|
|
|
TheNothingNew posted:Right, new-to-me car and I could use some pointers. 1995 1.8 "popular options" model or whatever it was - AC and power windows. Is your spare tire collecting water too? I had water come in through a compromised rain rail and window in the soft top, drip onto the parcel shelf, and then through an opening into the trunk right above the spare tire, which put water in the tire and the trunk. The carpeting should be easy to remove and dry out
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2014 01:57
|
|
|
Viper915 posted:Is your spare tire collecting water too? I had water come in through a compromised rain rail and window in the soft top, drip onto the parcel shelf, and then through an opening into the trunk right above the spare tire, which put water in the tire and the trunk. The carpeting should be easy to remove and dry out Nah, spare tire is on the right side, which seems dry. I didn't think of it coming in from the soft top rain rail, I'll check that out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2014 06:42
|
|
|
Got the new mounts/etc for my MSM suspension, threw it all together today. It was way too hot outside so I dragged all my tools and an air line into the living room. Much nicer than sitting on the garage floor! I'll install them next week when I get the car back from the body shop from when my neighbor backed into it over the winter. I do need to loosen the top hats and rotate them so they are aligned properly with the bottom mounting point.   Furthermore, I've had to resort to browsing the miata.net forum while SA was down. Please don't go down again, SA.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2014 04:52
|
|
|
I've owned my Miata for 3 years, but it's time to finally sell it. It's been my daily driver with the occasional drive up to the mountains. If any goons in So Cal are interested in a 95 with the LSD and a hardtop, my CL ad link is below. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4534905130.html If anyone is interested, we can keep the chat out of the thread by e-mailing me at bwk900 at gmail.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2014 03:39
|
|
|
I have a question, I know gently caress all about suspension, we have a 1994 Miata with Bilstein coilovers, the PO cut the rear springs and I'm trying to find a replacement. I found these on FM: http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4537&parentid=0&stocknumber=13-46500%20%201990-97 but I am unsure if they will fit the Bilstein coilovers. Any insight would be appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 01:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 11:44 |
|
|
Lately I've been seriously considering buying the official car of AI - specifically an NB - to be my DD. Forgive what may be a glut of lame questions - for a megathread, there is a distinct lack of signposting. I have already Googled around a lot and the general consensus seems to be that the NB is a pretty reliable car - or is it? Are there any major issues I should be aware of on these and look for? Are there items that commonly break, whether inherently flawed or just over time, beyond normal wear items? My budget would be around $6K-8K -- seems to be a fair number of 99-03's with 60-80K miles in there, but maybe I am being too optimistic about the vehicles in that range. Is there any reason to not also consider the NA? With the NA, I'm concerned about having a 20+ year old car instead of merely the 10-15 year old car with an NB. I also don't trust pop-up headlights. I assume that, even if both platforms were equally reliable, NB's would still be better simply because they are newer and thus will have less overall wear, rust, etc. even if they may have more fiddly bits added over the years. Though from what I understand, bloat wasn't really an issue until the NC. Basically, I would be replacing an incredibly reliable DD (7th gen Civic) with this guy, and I don't really want to have to end up with a moneypit, even a fun one. My wife's car is another incredibly reliable DD, however Also, I am not an expert mechanic or anything - I can handle basic maintenance and minor repairs/upgrades (swap a headlight assembly, change oil, install new stereo, etc.) but not to the point of, say, replacing drivetrain stuff or a whole radiator or something. I'm open to learning, but have limited space and budgeting for tools/equip. On that note, how difficult is it to install a rollbar oneself? I have no problem with bolting stuff together, but how much precision destruction is incurred? Is it as much of a giant PITA as, say, replacing the soft top? (Heard that was no fun at all - but I'm a hardtop kind of guy anyway) I'll gladly take to PMs or something... Teketeketeketeke fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Jun 28, 2014 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2014 22:43
|
|
