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bull3964 posted:Where did you drive, how flat was it? Yeah that 33 highway about what the 148hp 2.0i Impreza gets in the real world. Seems too amazing.
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Jul 8, 2014 00:19
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I was freaking out because I had done 64kms and apparently they was a quarter of a tank, then I realised I disconnected the battery and that reset the trip counters. gently caress that was a lot of stressing over nothing. Normally I get 8.4L/100km or 28mpg if I dont boost too much in my blobeye.
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Jul 8, 2014 02:21
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FogHelmut posted:Yeah that 33 highway about what the 148hp 2.0i Impreza gets in the real world. Seems too amazing. Maybe he has the automatic because the auto Impreza gets 36mpg highway. Cruise control and favorable terrain + onboard exaggerated mpg mayyyyybe.
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Jul 8, 2014 02:21
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It's been over a year since I got my 2012 Impreza with the CVT and, while I love it, I feel like it could use some more power and power response. However, I want the practicality of a wagon and the fuel economy of the newer engines. So neither the old or new model WRX is an option unless I forgo one of those requirements or hold out for Subaru to come out with a WRX wagon. The other, more outlandish, option is to get a 2014+ Forrester XT and throw on WRX, STI, or aftermarket running gear for a lower, stiffer ride, equivalent or better handling than my Impreza, and a manual transmission. The problem is that I have no experience or tools to pull off that kind of endeavor so I'll need to hire a mechanic or shop that is capable of such work. Also, while these mods have been done before on older models, it doesn't seem like anyone has done any significant modding to the new Forresters. Are they too just too new to the market for anyone to have done any significant work on them yet? I don't plan on doing anything for at least another year so right now it's a waiting game. I just like to know what my options are, recommended shops or goons in or around NJ that can perform the modifications if necessary, and if I'm crazy. Or I could just get and live with the Forrester XT as is until the modding scene becomes more mature. Still need to drive one and see how I like it as it's the only Subaru aside from the WRX, STI, and BRZ that I've driven during a test drive or as a loaner car. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Jul 8, 2014 |
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Jul 8, 2014 05:01
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Midjack posted:How serviceable is the DCCD in a GV (2012) STi? Midjack posted:No binding, warning light only. What happens is the + AUTO - indicator goes out and the manual control indicators all start flashing. User manual says that's "center diff fail, take in for immediate service." Update: dealer tech says it's "electrically dead" and will have to be replaced; such failures are apparently super rare and as such my insurance finally believes it's accident-related and agreed to pay for it. Apparently it truly doesn't happen often because they said there are only like 2 spare DCCDs in North America at the moment so it's taking a few days to get it here, but it's being replaced as a unit rather than repaired. I wonder if they'll send the dead one back to the mothership for failure analysis.
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Jul 8, 2014 05:48
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Totally TWISTED posted:Maybe he has the automatic because the auto Impreza gets 36mpg highway. Cruise control and favorable terrain + onboard exaggerated mpg mayyyyybe. 6 speed manual. Cruising at 3000 RPM @ 80mph. Terrain was very flat, definitely used cruise control where I could. I cant say how accurate the mileage indicator was. Subaru has enough of them on displays to make me believe they'd be accurate enough. I wasn't really paying attention at the gas station.
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Jul 8, 2014 11:38
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rcman50166 posted:6 speed manual. Cruising at 3000 RPM @ 80mph. Terrain was very flat, definitely used cruise control where I could. I cant say how accurate the mileage indicator was. Subaru has enough of them on displays to make me believe they'd be accurate enough. I wasn't really paying attention at the gas station. Mine is consistently +2 mpg on the display vs Fuelly. And I'm totally not bitter that a more powerful car may be getting better gas mileage than me.
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Jul 8, 2014 11:47
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I'd believe it, with the NA 2.5 in the Baja I was getting around 9L/100km city and 10L/100km hwy (that's right, the highway mileage was worst than city) swapped in the '10 WRX drivetrain, threw lots of mods at it, and tuned it to 21psi making more than 200hp over the old motor, and suddenly I can get 8L/100km city and down to as low as 6.5L/100km on the highway (Although the gearing difference with the WRX trans probably made a big difference too). Fuckin turbo's man, how do they work? Hahah
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Jul 8, 2014 14:37
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Edward IV posted:It's been over a year since I got my 2012 Impreza with the CVT and, while I love it, I feel like it could use some more power and power response. However, I want the practicality of a wagon and the fuel economy of the newer engines. So neither the old or new model WRX is an option unless I forgo one of those requirements or hold out for Subaru to come out with a WRX wagon. I am pretty sure you can only get a manual in the lower trims for the forester. The amount of money you'd spend on the car and then doing all of that swapping, supposing it's possible, you're better off buying an older wrx.
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Jul 8, 2014 14:46
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Bajaha posted:I'd believe it, with the NA 2.5 in the Baja I was getting around 9L/100km city and 10L/100km hwy (that's right, the highway mileage was worst than city) swapped in the '10 WRX drivetrain, threw lots of mods at it, and tuned it to 21psi making more than 200hp over the old motor, and suddenly I can get 8L/100km city and down to as low as 6.5L/100km on the highway (Although the gearing difference with the WRX trans probably made a big difference too). Fuckin turbo's man, how do they work? Hahah I got much better fuel economy on my WRX than I ever have in either of my NA Subarus, but that's probably because I didn't need to beat the living poo poo out of it constantly to make it get off the line. Fuel economy is just liquid fun, and tires are solid fun. Boost is gaseous fun. Or something.
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Jul 8, 2014 15:12
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I got 28mpg in my wagon on the last tank. Freshened up 2.5NA with a 3.9 trans on US roads lugging around does funny things.
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Jul 8, 2014 15:19
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Yeah, the NA 2.0i Impreza CVT is rated at 36 highway. In my case, -1 mpg for wagon. Then -2 more for 5-spd. Then -1 more for reasonable tires. Then load crap in there for a road trip. Maybe I have the roof rack on too. My best on Fuelly was 31.5, but I'm right in there for 27.5 mpg average over time. I've never actually done a pure interstate drive for a whole tank, so I wonder how that would do.
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Jul 8, 2014 15:41
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mariooncrack posted:I am pretty sure you can only get a manual in the lower trims for the forester. The amount of money you'd spend on the car and then doing all of that swapping, supposing it's possible, you're better off buying an older wrx. I know it's silly to nitpick about fuel economy in a sport car but I'm used to getting 31 mpg and paying for 87 octane fuel. Going down to low 20s mpg and paying for 91 octane is a little difficult for me to swallow. Still, I'm only looking at a 2-3 mpg improvement in fuel economy when comparing the old and new WRX so perhaps I am a bit silly. Then again, rcman50166 managed to get 33 mpg out of his new WRX which is more what I'm looking for. Also, what I like about the new Forrester XT is that it doesn't have the hood scoop making it a more understated car. Yes, I like a car that performs well but isn't too flashy. However, I don't know how much more power can be wringed out of the engine since the intercooler seems to be mounted above the engine as usual. Again, I don't plan on doing anything for at least another year. Maybe by then, Subaru will announce a new WRX wagon with a manual transmission. One can only hope. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jul 8, 2014 |
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Jul 8, 2014 16:24
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On my '04 WRX wagon I get 18-20 around town, and long highway trips are 26-28. I might get 30 if I left the windows up and AC off the whole time. I got 31 once long long ago when it was still stock (AC on, lots of hills, car full of camping gear). Now it's just AP stage2 with ported and ceramic coated stock headers and STI uppipe. The miata gets identical mileage in the city because you have to thrash it to get anywhere. I always tell people that fuel comes out of my entertainment budget.
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Jul 8, 2014 16:31
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Big turbo + big injectors = hilarious MPG results. Too bad it only lasted for 1/4th of the tank on the way to the track. 
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Jul 8, 2014 17:50
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Posted this in the Marketplace thread. Cross posting here: Selling my Rotiform VCE in 18x8.5" +35 offset all around, with 215/40-18 Nitto NeoGen tires. The whole setup has less than three thousand miles on it. Asking $1,500 obo... or if you are feeling froggy you can buy the whole car for $12k  Located in Virginia
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Jul 8, 2014 19:05
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http://www.autoblog.com/2014/07/08/subaru-recalling-over-8000-cars-takata-airbag-inflators/ I'm worried about the Saabaru now - a lot of it is carry over from those MYs of WRX and I'm sure whoever is responsible for the car at this point (GM? The remaining shell of Saab North America?) doesn't give a drat.
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Jul 9, 2014 05:38
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Finally, after years of poo poo breaking on my subaru and not being covered, I emailed subaru about some lovely floormats I bought from them like a year or two ago (OEM) that don't quite fit right and interfere with the clutch pedal on my 05 LGT with 140k mi. Getting new free floormats. Woohoo!
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Jul 9, 2014 06:10
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blk posted:http://www.autoblog.com/2014/07/08/subaru-recalling-over-8000-cars-takata-airbag-inflators/ As a 2003 legacy owner... awesome. Gotta call subaru.
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Jul 9, 2014 16:54
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Slow is Fast posted:As a 2003 legacy owner... awesome. Like half of the poo poo you own hasn't already been crashed and zip-tied back together by dodgy bodyshops.
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Jul 9, 2014 17:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Like half of the poo poo you own hasn't already been crashed and zip-tied back together by dodgy bodyshops. Well duh, all bumpers are held on by zipties, but the exploding passenger airbag shrapnel thing is kind of a downer for passengers.
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Jul 9, 2014 17:23
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My wrx has never been tracked or crashed or even reversed into or anything and the front bumper is held up by zipties. The plastic clips are absolute poo poo.
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Jul 9, 2014 23:42
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My rear brakes lines are held in by zipties. Probably not gonna pass inspection when I inevitably have to get new plates. Rocking these out of state plates for as long as possible. At least they're not ziptied to the struts heh.
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Jul 10, 2014 00:05
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:My rear brakes lines are held in by zipties. Probably not gonna pass inspection when I inevitably have to get new plates. Rocking these out of state plates for as long as possible. Race car failed state inspection due to that + a ton of other things. SS lines ziptied to the struts is fine IMO, but I GUESS I'll make proper brackets or something. pfffff
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Jul 10, 2014 00:12
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In some states of Australia you have to get a roadworthy certificate whenever you renew your registration (so every 6-12 months). In Queensland (my state) you only have to get a new one when you sell the car  E: And its really dumb here. Brand new coilovers are enough to fail you even if the car is well over legal height (100mm at lowest point, ~4 inches) if they have the capability of lowering the car beyond that, whereas old lovely dead shocks can get a pass if they are the ones that the factory put in 30+ years ago. I'd probably fail because I went full subaru and got hella supertones and wired them myself. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 00:15
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Those playing the blk game at home know that I'm frustrated with the brake pedal feel on my 92x. I put on new rear rotors and pads ~5k miles ago because it was clear they were needed. My front pads still have some life (35-50%) and the front rotors are just beginning to develop a lip. I did another bleed today and am confident I did it correctly. I also cleaned everything and lubed the pads with antiseize where they run along the front clips. I have a Grimmspeed brace for the master cylinder I have yet to put on, but I'm wondering how much that will accomplish. I'm thinking of replacing front pads and rotors at this point to see if that will make a difference, but it seems like the 92x is fundamentally flawed with relatively small rotors (at least compared to my old W203 Benz) and 2 pots in front and 1 pots in the rear. If you were me, would you try dropping $125-$175 on new rotors and pads up front (that may not be necessary) or would you look at upgrading to larger rotors and calipers to accomodate? If I just do new pads and rotors, should I consider drilled and/or slotted?
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Jul 12, 2014 06:07
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MC brace and a good bleed made a big difference for me along with pads that have decent initial bite (stoptech). It's pretty good, but I still want to pick up some Subaru 4-pots one of these days. I am due for fresh fluid and am going to do a gravity bleed this time around.
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Jul 12, 2014 06:47
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Were the 06-07 WRXs 4 pot front 2 pot rear with bigger rotors than the previous years? I wonder what makes more of a difference, rotor size or caliper. I'm guessing rotor size.
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Jul 12, 2014 07:14
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blk posted:should I consider drilled and/or slotted? Not unless you're desperate for that baller status on that small setup. The MC brace along with good fluid makes for a world of difference, as jamal said, but past that, it'll come down to the little (or not so little calipers, meaty pads, fresh rotors, etc) things. Is your pedal just not rock hard while cold, warm, near boiling? What exactly do you want out of it, and what do you plan on doing with the setup?
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Jul 12, 2014 07:30
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Both, but mostly the caliper actually. The fixed 4-pot is stiffer, and it also has smaller pistons, which means it takes more pedal effort but less travel to get the same braking force all else equal. It all adds up- less firewall flex, less caliper flex, bigger rotor, smaller caliper pistons, and grippier pads all mean a more solid pedal. The 4-pots use the same 294mm rotor as the 2-pot WRX brakes.
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Jul 12, 2014 07:40
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jamal posted:Both, but mostly the caliper actually. The fixed 4-pot is stiffer, and it also has smaller pistons, which means it takes more pedal effort but less travel to get the same braking force all else equal. It all adds up- less firewall flex, less caliper flex, bigger rotor, smaller caliper pistons, and grippier pads all mean a more solid pedal. In the rear do the group N 2 pots share a rotor with the 2-pot WRX brakes? Curious because I'm 90% sure the e-brake is separate from the caliper on the group N units (inside the back of the rotor like a drum brake?).
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Jul 12, 2014 07:42
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I've got a 97 Outback sport that just started having some issues with the immobilizer. I replaced the battery on it yesterday and when I turned the key I got jack fuckall. I put the key in the on position and reconnected the battery and yahtzee everything is good. Well about 4 hours later I come out of the store and same thing. About an hour ago I go outside to let the dogs out and I see my lights flashing on my car. I did a quick internet search and it says something about a button under the dash which I cannot find to save my life. I reconnected the battery and the lights went off. I'm worried this is going to happen and drain my damned batter. Any suggestions/ideas? I don't have a keyfob.
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Jul 12, 2014 12:26
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VelociBacon posted:In the rear do the group N 2 pots share a rotor with the 2-pot WRX brakes? Curious because I'm 90% sure the e-brake is separate from the caliper on the group N units (inside the back of the rotor like a drum brake?). Depends what you mean by group n. The older ones were identical, but anti-knockback springs were an option. New ones are made by AP and completely different. The e-brake is usually converted to use a hydraulic handle by splicing into the rear brake lines. Otherwise the wrx 2-pots still have an e-brake using a drum. Also, there is a version with the 190mm parking brake for the sti.
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Jul 12, 2014 15:37
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Whale Cancer posted:I've got a 97 Outback sport that just started having some issues with the immobilizer. I replaced the battery on it yesterday and when I turned the key I got jack fuckall. I put the key in the on position and reconnected the battery and yahtzee everything is good. Well about 4 hours later I come out of the store and same thing. About an hour ago I go outside to let the dogs out and I see my lights flashing on my car. I did a quick internet search and it says something about a button under the dash which I cannot find to save my life. I reconnected the battery and the lights went off. I'm worried this is going to happen and drain my damned batter. Any suggestions/ideas? I don't have a keyfob. If your car is like mine and the PO broke the button, look for 2 brown wires hanging loose under the dash and touch them together for a few seconds right after you turn the key to on. Might have to try it a few times before it works. Speaking of which, is there an easy way to disable that stupid system entirely? I hate hate hate having to deal with it every time I work on the Fozzy.
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Jul 12, 2014 15:53
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Embarassing question: there's a component I don't recognize that's really getting in the way of my master cylinder brace install. It doesn't seem to be present in the demo car they used for the instructions/video. What is it? Can I unbolt it and set it aside?
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Jul 13, 2014 01:47
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Air pump. Unbolt the whole bracket it's attached to, so those two on the strut tower plus I think just one more at the bottom. You don't undo those bolts holding it to the bracket. Also you can pull off the hoses but be careful not to crack the plastic fittings.
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Jul 13, 2014 01:57
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I have never heard of a master cylinder brace before today. What kind of difference do they make? Also loving creaking noise when I push in the clutch pedal is driving me nuts! Ive got everything I can see greased uggghhh.
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Jul 13, 2014 02:05
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I did a thing, but the fuel pump isn't happy. It's alive again, I guess  . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7aa3omT79I Also, Jamal, I didn't forget this time! 
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Jul 13, 2014 02:51
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I just installed the whiteline COM-C offset tophats on my 05 LGT and maxed out the camber just for kicks to see what it's like for a few days until I get an alignment. While it's hilarious around corners, it's kind of fidgety on the highway, and the wind is blowing the car around more than usual. What's a reasonable yet fun camber target for a daily driver? Something like 2°?
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Jul 13, 2014 03:05
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Okay, first problem! I bought an 02 WRX about 4 months ago. Its been running great, no problems, until today. On the way home the check engine light comes on. I check it with my accessport and get a P0031 code. Looks like its the O2 sensor going bad. But Im also having some pretty strong hesitation issues. It idles fine, but try and accelerate and it bucks and jerks untill it gets over 4k or so then smooths out. I plan on just getting a new O2 sensor, its most likely original and Ive got 180k miles on it, so why not. I also put a TBE on it about a month ago, dont know if that would make a difference. I need to use the car for the next few days, too. Will it be alright to drive as long as Im easy on it? And could there be another issue causing the roughness, or is it most likely the O2?
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Jul 13, 2014 03:06
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