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Shifting my DRZ, instead of a nice clean "click", I now get more of a "thunk" and I have to press harder (sometimes). Coming up on 2500 km since last I changed the oil (rotella t6). Is that what you mean when you say "notchy"?
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Jul 9, 2014 21:40
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| # ? May 11, 2024 23:43 |
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needknees posted:Sumo goons, if you are in the central Midwest and have been looking for a 690smc, look no further. Sold pending inspection/funds. Sorry guys 
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Jul 9, 2014 23:36
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epalm posted:Shifting my DRZ, instead of a nice clean "click", I now get more of a "thunk" and I have to press harder (sometimes). Basically, it also manifests as not wanting to shift out of or into neutral easily
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Jul 10, 2014 03:41
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Check your clutch cable slack as well.
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Jul 10, 2014 06:14
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epalm posted:Shifting my DRZ, instead of a nice clean "click", I now get more of a "thunk" and I have to press harder (sometimes). This happened to me last week and my loving shifter had just loosened slightly.
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Jul 10, 2014 07:14
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ReelBigLizard posted:Same amount of the same Motorex UnicornSpaff 10W60 through the same two oil screens and two cartridge filters. Maybe the only thing that changed was the warranty 
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Jul 10, 2014 13:14
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Z3n posted:Check your clutch cable slack as well. This is the easiest, cheapest, and most likely to fix it.
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Jul 10, 2014 16:41
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This is probably the wrong thread but my XR400R has suddenly lost compression. I rode it at the track a few weeks back and it was running great. I will up to start it a couple weeks later and there's no / little compression in the kickstarter.  So far I've checked the valves and replaced the plug. Everything looked fine (intakes were loose, exhausts were basically OK). My next check will be to check timing. Never removed a valve cover on an engine with rockers. Anything I should watch out for? The previous owner said it has a stage 3 hotcam so I'll look for that while I'm in there. I'll also pop in a Harbor Freight inspection camera thing through the spark plug hole to see if I can see anything. I was just about to order some levers for it too!
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Jul 11, 2014 01:36
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While we're on the subject of sumos and notchy shifting, my 2007 690SM with 13,300miles has become increasingly difficult to shift to the point today where I'm parking it until I figure out what the deal is. It got pretty bad a couple of weeks ago so I changed/bled the mineral oil, which seemed to help quite a bit. Unfortunately, it's gotten back to where it was if not worse. The reservoir is still full and the mineral oil has only mildly discolored. Oil was changed with Motul 10-60 1300 miles ago along with new filters, so it shouldn't be that. It's worse going from 1st to 2nd - I have to give the shifter a strong jab with my boot and I can feel it fighting me, and it completes the shift with a loud clack. It's easier at 6000+RPM or with just the right amount of rev matching finesse. Higher gears/speeds are also respectively easier. Downshifting from 2nd to 1st it often wants to stick in neutral and I can feel the gears trying to shift through my boot (I really noticed this and got worried the other day when I rode it with regular shoes - my boots were numbing the issue)  What does that sound like? New clutch, or new master/slave cylinder?
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Jul 11, 2014 02:32
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Sounds like slave cylinder to me. Or air in the lines.
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Jul 11, 2014 06:13
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Z3n posted:Sounds like slave cylinder to me. Or air in the lines. Thanks. I bled it from the bottom as was suggested online, and kept going until I had entirely replaced all the old fluid so I don't think it's air. New slave ordered. Hopefully that'll do it.
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Jul 11, 2014 17:29
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Bleed the banjoes, too.
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Jul 11, 2014 21:34
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So my 690 still isn't all I want it to be. It's been at the dealer twice and they've adjusted the AFR 4% fatter both times. Or so they say. For fun I ordered a cable and downloaded TuneECU, just to read the maps from the bike and see how they look (not really with any intention to edit anything). Note that the following part is all from my limited understanding of the maps from internet based learning. The first thing I notice, comparing it to a completely stock EVO 2 map is that there is no difference whatsoever on the FI map. And the throttle map is just a loving mess. Take a look. Here's how the (performance mode) throttle map looks in the stock EVO 2 map (from the TuneECU homepage).  And here's how the same map from my bike looks.  I don't even know what the gently caress. Anyone who knows anyone that knows something about this?
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Jul 14, 2014 00:16
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If you have the capability to connect it to a computer and manipulate the map, I'd recommend getting it on a dyno and having it tuned with a wideband O2 sensor.
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Jul 14, 2014 16:30
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Nidhg00670000 posted:I don't even know what the gently caress. Anyone who knows anyone that knows something about this? My understanding was that the EPT map just maps your "requested" throttle position to the actual position of the throttle valve. My guess would be that is an attempt to smooth out the bike at low rpm. Whether or not that is a reasonable way to go about this I wouldn't know. I think the only way you'll get the EFI map right would be to do as Clutchpuck said and get it tuned on a dyno. You could also try doing what the "code orange" thread on advrider says to do but I haven't been brave enough to try that yet.
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Jul 14, 2014 17:21
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It's been a while since I had my 690 (and I still miss it sometimes) but as has been said the throttle tables indicate the percentage of throttle opening for the percentage of twist. Basically at default they adjust out the throttle to tame some low speed jerkiness or something. The stock 690SM maps are all sorts of tame compared to the SMC and from what i remember you should just adjust it to the EVO2 map, though there's some good reading to be done on ADV and SMJ about it.
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Jul 15, 2014 04:15
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:While we're on the subject of sumos and notchy shifting, my 2007 690SM with 13,300miles has become increasingly difficult to shift.... Z3n posted:Sounds like slave cylinder to me. Or air in the lines. The Royal Nonesuch posted:Thanks. I bled it from the bottom as was suggested online, and kept going until I had entirely replaced all the old fluid so I don't think it's air. New slave arrived today, and I installed it along with a new Shorai battery to fix my lovely starting hesitation. Bike starts instantly now, and shifts smooth as butter. I took the old slave apart to see how it worked (still learning biek stuff) and it looks fine - all the rubber gaskets are whole etc. I took some photos to see if a more trained eye than mine can spot anything wrong with it. All I see is some mild wear in the cylinder in the last photo - is that enough to cause the issues I was having/introduce air into the line? Did I gently caress up the bleeding process the first time around, or was the slave actually bad?      
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Jul 15, 2014 04:33
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Nidhg00670000 posted:So my 690 still isn't all I want it to be. It's been at the dealer twice and they've adjusted the AFR 4% fatter both times. Or so they say. Your map is tamed to make it easier and smoother to ride (read: throttle is much softer below 2300rpm) versus a 1:1 map on the EVO2 you posted. I'd personally copy the EVO2 throttle map over what you've got now and hit the download button. Meh, it probably won't make much difference other than being annoying to ride around town.
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Jul 15, 2014 04:43
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Right, so I sold my Harley this evening because the Brap was calling and I just couldn't resist it (also I got more than I paid for the bike, even after dropping it). I'm eyeballing a few different DRZ's locally. One appears to have a full Yosh pipe, ProTaper bars, I *think* a manual cam-chain tensioner and about 4800 on the clock for $4200. EDIT: Blah blah blah blah other stuff. I pick up my 2008 DRZ400SM on Thursday. I test rode it down a dirt road, over curbs, on sidewalks, and straight into my heart. Brap Brap. Akion fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jul 16, 2014 |
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Jul 15, 2014 05:18
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Thank you previous owner for gluing together my DRC Edge 2 tail light so that I can't put my 12 o clock labs controller in. You are rad.
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Jul 17, 2014 02:25
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Yerok posted:Thank you previous owner for gluing together my DRC Edge 2 tail light so that I can't put my 12 o clock labs controller in. You are rad. Acetone and or WD-40?
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Jul 17, 2014 03:30
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Found a new lens for $10, method of removal: 16" Estwing framing hammer.
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Jul 17, 2014 03:36
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Yerok posted:Found a new lens for $10, method of removal: 16" Estwing framing hammer. Where at? Mine's all cracked to hell and starting to fall apart.
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Jul 17, 2014 03:39
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Five dollars with 5-6 dollar shipping. http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=68
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Jul 17, 2014 03:44
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Ok, so what I'm going to do (to begin with) is replace my bikes EPT performance map with the EVO 2 EPT performance map, and leave the other EPT maps in my bikes mapping alone for the moment. That way I can switch between them and feel the difference. When replacing the EPT map you just have to do the throttle twist reset thingy right? Not the whole 15 minute idle reset thing?
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Jul 17, 2014 12:27
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Power off, switch map, power back on.
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Jul 17, 2014 15:21
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Cycle Asylum › The SuperMotard Thread: Reboot your bike
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Jul 17, 2014 17:56
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Cycle Asylum › The SuperMotard Thread: Reboot your bike This makes me want to keep running old tech bikes forever just to ensure there is no scope-creep from work to motorcycling.
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Jul 17, 2014 18:29
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apatite posted:This makes me want to keep running old tech bikes forever just to ensure there is no scope-creep from work to motorcycling. No joke, for a while I was trying to figure out if I could compile LogStash on a Raspberry Pi so I could just leave a data logger in place on my bike and hit the web interface from my phone over wifi.
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Jul 17, 2014 19:05
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apatite posted:This makes me want to keep running old tech bikes forever just to ensure there is no scope-creep from work to motorcycling. And here I am all pissed off with carbs.... Safety Dance posted:No joke, for a while I was trying to figure out if I could compile LogStash on a Raspberry Pi so I could just leave a data logger in place on my bike and hit the web interface from my phone over wifi.
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Jul 17, 2014 19:19
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apatite posted:This makes me want to keep running old tech bikes forever just to ensure there is no scope-creep from work to motorcycling. Cycle Asylum › The SuperMotard Thread: Rejet your bike Its so much easier to flash firmware than tune a lolburator, I'll say.
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Jul 17, 2014 22:58
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Yeah tell that to the guys on their 20th map
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Jul 18, 2014 00:44
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I think I got up to like 5 on the Ulysses before I accepted that the shitbutt Jardine muffler pops a lot.
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Jul 18, 2014 00:45
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Mine is trial by oil-slick. Do it wrong and it covers your boot in oil. Why does Yamaha try so hard to be british.
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Jul 18, 2014 03:37
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Yeah. I think I just ruined every non-supermoto motorcycle for myself, forever. I loving love this thing. $4200. 2008 with 4800 miles. Has the 3x3 done, full Yosh pipe, Fender Eliminator w/edge light, ProTaper fat bars, and a few other little mods. Best money I've spent in a while, and so much more fun than my Harley was. Gonna either get BRAP or MOTARD as my vanity plate. My only concern is that the exhaust pops when decelerating, a lot. Is that normal? 
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Jul 18, 2014 06:44
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That's normal IMO. Don't get overly concerned with it if it's running well otherwise. Also, if you plan on riding street 99% of the time ditch those tires for something like Pilot Powers. They're really cheap and they stick like crazy. Ditching heavy/bulky dual sport tires makes it a whole different bike. Going to a smaller front sprocket can wake it up as well depending on the current gearing.
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Jul 18, 2014 07:32
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That's a drat good looking DRZ. I went straight from a Sportster to a 690, but I still kind of want a 400 someday so I can roll WOT 24/7 without owning myself.Baller Witness Bro posted:Also, if you plan on riding street 99% of the time ditch those tires for something like Pilot Powers. They're really cheap and they stick like crazy. Ditching heavy/bulky dual sport tires makes it a whole different bike. I put Pilot Powers on when I first got my supermoto, and they do rock on pavement. Call me a victim of YouTube stunt videos, but as I got comfortable with the bike I wanted to do more dumb poo poo on side roads/grassy medians/forest service fire roads/ur moms face. I did all those things, but it was always a ridiculously slippery, butthole-clenching experience. I recently replaced my rear with a Distanzia, and suddenly the bike is the wild multipurpose stupidmachine I was picturing all along. Next paycheck buys the front too  
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Jul 18, 2014 09:00
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Akion posted:Yeah. I think I just ruined every non-supermoto motorcycle for myself, forever. I loving love this thing. Once you put a full exhaust on, they pop and spit like crazy, there really isnt a way to tune around it, as the stock carb doesnt have a coast enrichener. What I'm saying is why would you want the popping and burbling to go away 
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Jul 18, 2014 14:04
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Baller Witness Bro posted:That's normal IMO. Don't get overly concerned with it if it's running well otherwise. Honestly, I bought this thing for maximum hoonage potential. I live in CO, so I wanted to have fun on the twisties, but still be able to check out cool dirt/gravel roads I pass by. I may get a second, dirt setup later, but right now this is what I have.
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Jul 18, 2014 14:43
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| # ? May 11, 2024 23:43 |
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Distanzias are a great all purpose tyre. I was really surprised by how sure footed they are on the road.
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Jul 18, 2014 15:31
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