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Rhyno posted:How much do those Costco shelves cost? $136 onsale through August. Home Depot wants $179 for the same thing...
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Jul 1, 2014 18:37
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NitroSpazzz posted:Hmm not bad, I might have to grab a rack that's getting scrapped. Do the storage bins use the full depth of the rack? It's a standard 19" rack and can hold bins both front and rear. The casters on this one allow easy access to the back for less commonly used items.
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Jul 1, 2014 18:38
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Are you going to try to set up any kind of storage that makes use of the high ceiling? My Pop has a similar sized shop and he ended up building ~20' high shelves along one wall with a ladder on casters like you'd see in an old library.
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Jul 4, 2014 04:01
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We used to have a '76 RX3 (bought in '77 with a ridiculous spoiler/louver package, bright yellow and black, ha) that had a 13b in it and went like a bat out of loving hell.
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Jul 7, 2014 19:33
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So Spyder I am curious, since you seem to be able to find these cars so easily. Do you ever find, rebuild and sell FDs for people?
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Jul 16, 2014 03:14
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I've wondered the same thing. I passed an FD this morning on the highway and holy crap is that car still gorgeous. It got me thinking about a 3-rotor setup. What would be the ballpark for an FD with a blown engine, a 20B swap, and all the associated refresh bits?
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Jul 20, 2014 01:52
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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Mat_Drinks posted:Are you going to try to set up any kind of storage that makes use of the high ceiling? My Pop has a similar sized shop and he ended up building ~20' high shelves along one wall with a ladder on casters like you'd see in an old library. Yes, but not until after the final inspection is done. Half the shop area is being lofted. The space above the wood working/machine rooms will also be used for storage.
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Jul 21, 2014 20:17
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Rhyno posted:So Spyder I am curious, since you seem to be able to find these cars so easily. Do you ever find, rebuild and sell FDs for people? Yes, but it usually costs way to much and takes forever.
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Jul 21, 2014 20:17
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:I've wondered the same thing. I passed an FD this morning on the highway and holy crap is that car still gorgeous. It got me thinking about a 3-rotor setup. Way to much: FD roller in good shape $6k Mazda 20B engine core $6.5k shipped Rebuild of said 20b $4k from Pineapple Racing ECU $1500 Turbo kit $3-5k Fuel system $1500 ~25k Now add suspension, bushings, larger brakes, wheels/tires, a roll bar, electronics, ect. ~10-20k And now add labor... You get the point. Buying one prebuilt for $40k (there's one forsale right now) is actually a decent way to go.
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Jul 21, 2014 20:21
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the spyder posted:Yes, but it usually costs way to much and takes forever. How much is "way too much" by your estimate? What if there was no time limit and a reasonable budget?
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Jul 21, 2014 20:22
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Also, what if it rained L3 techs that were willing to work for free?
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Jul 21, 2014 20:33
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Rhyno posted:How much is "way too much" by your estimate? What if there was no time limit and a reasonable budget? My guess would be too much to make it worth his while and having a project taking up the space of a car he could be making money on.
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Jul 21, 2014 20:35
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Holy gently caress, a CORE is 6500? Now I'm not feeling like 5 grand for a viper V10 in good running condition aint so bad after all..
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Jul 22, 2014 00:35
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the spyder posted:Way to much: That's only about 5k more than I was expecting. Not that bad really for what you're getting. I'm a little disgruntled with skyrocketing GT3 prices so I'm considering fun (not necessarily faster) alternatives. An LSx FD would probably be the lazy way to make power, you'd have to work for it a bit harder with a 20B and you'd have something unique.
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Jul 22, 2014 07:11
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To do a full R+R on a FD, you are looking at $6-12k for a rebuildable car that let's say for this example needs coolant seals (varies by area). Car: $8k (clean paint, normal interior ware, few to no mods, blown coolant seals, 80-100k) R+R (Remove/Reinstall): $1k (includes fluids/shop supplies, ect) Engine rebuild: $3-4k (depending on where you send it) Now, once you get into one of these cars, I usually end up having to do the following since it's a 80-100k car. Engine wiring harness: $1100 Turbos: $250 used/ $2800 new Vacuum system overhaul: $400-800 depending on solenoids/hose kit Clutch: $450 Cooling system overhaul: $350-700 depending on radiator/hoses This does not include wheels, suspension, bushings, or aero/body. I'm pretty biased on this, only because I have to explain to kids why buying a $12k FD from a dealer is a terrible, terrible idea. "But I can afford the $350m/$150 car insurance!"- Ok, but can you afford the $10k in work that needs to be done? No? Then don't buy it! I literally just had this happen to TWO twenty somethings who happen to have their cars in this thread. One over heated right after buying it and the dealer said, haha too bad. The other made the trip home from another state and then would not restart at his house. I guess my best answer is Yes, I will R+R cars, I've done three in the last few months- if you have the patience and realistic budget. I'm actually finding myself wanting to work more so on stock cars/reliability mods, then 500hp single turbo cars.
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Jul 22, 2014 19:21
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kastein posted:Holy gently caress, a CORE is 6500? Now I'm not feeling like 5 grand for a viper V10 in good running condition aint so bad after all.. I lied: $5200 http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-20B-3...663722b&vxp=mtr
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Jul 22, 2014 19:22
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Back to the insanity. I have been increcibly busy with not-car related work. Here's what I've managed to squeeze in. Let's start this adventure with a broken and poorly repaired TPS. This was found on the Red 93 Touring.  Yes that's RTV for some unknown reason.  I stupidly took on more projects and now have no parking.    I love my white unicorn  . It's got a boost issue though, which I have yet to find time to fix.  Side project: I built a terrible cart for my pressure washer last year and I've been wanting to rebuilt it since. I stopped by the steel yard and grabbed enough remnants to fix it, build grinder stands, and a new TIG/Plasma cart. I still have some work to do on it, but it's 10x better then what I had.         A wild blue RHD FC vert showed up out of no where. It's a legal import too which is neat. Too bad no one cared about the maintance on it  .    The oil cooler lines split and dumped all it's oil out .  While replacing it, we found a list of other awesome issues. To whomever used door seal adhesive (butyl rubber) on the air filter box, I hate you. Everything on this car was glued with some form of sealant. Is this some strange Japanese thing I'm not aware of? Why would you put RTV on the coolant hoses?  I wonder when this was last changed.   The coolant was terrible, not Miata bad, but terrible. There was sludge in the overflow, the radiator, the block. Ugggggggg.    I worked on the 93 Touring Greddy T88 Turbo Kit car Sunday. The coil packs showed back up from RMA and fixed the no start. As it turns out, the supplier sent out reversed dwell numbers with the instructions for the kit and it fried the AEM smart coils...  While I had it on the lift again, I went over the car one last time. I found a few issues, like the motor mounts -> block were loose. Every hose clamp was loose. I guess that explains the oil/coolant leaks. But it get's better. THWN Household service wire for the battery relocation?    A random piece of hose + hoseclamp covering what I'm assuming is a hole through the fuel rail? Oh god  .  The boost controller/wastegate were hooked up rear end-backwords. They were getting their reference from the crankcase and did not have the second control line even connected.  The owner thankfully purchased a wide band and I welded a bung in the downpipe.  This is how the car looked before the owner showed up. It badly needed the oil changed due to the constant flooding from the bad coil packs. We drained and oil and changed the filter- 6.5 quarts from a 4.5 quart system... 2 quarts of gas were in the oil.... Thankfully the owner brought us a fresh jug of 20w50.  I started on another project while waiting for the owner- grinder and vice stands.  Aaaaand this is where everything went to hell. I was having such a nice Sunday too. The owner showed up, we added the oil, and fired it up. His friend noticed the turbo feed line was dripping slowly. The conversation went like this: Me "That looks like a ghetto repair by a PO, let's take it to local hose shop 1 or two on Monday and fix it." Owner's buddy "Na, let's see if we can fix it". Owner "I can drive it home at least and get one made Monday". And this is where I should have put my drat foot down and said hell no. But I removed the fitting, cleaned the scored mating surfaces, put on some high temp locktite and put it back together. We all looked it over, started the car, and no leaks. Awesome, right? gently caress. My. Life. quote:
    "LOL" Yeah loving right.  I still can't believe that after the fire, all it needs is an air filter, oil line, and under hood blanket.  I ordered all the parts and am fixing it out of my pocket- at the end of the day, I should have NEVER let this get re-ghetto rigged. A single bad judgement call could have cost us the car and worse, our lives. Live and learn- and make things right. Oh and I'm going to fix the THWN battery location while it's here. Wonder what crazy thing will happen next... the spyder fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jul 22, 2014 |
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Jul 22, 2014 20:18
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the spyder posted:To do a full R+R on a FD, you are looking at $6-12k for a rebuildable car that let's say for this example needs coolant seals (varies by area). Then again, car's like this pop up every once in a while too: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4578746417.html $5k 93 R1 That needs a engine. Single turbo, clean except frogeye headlight kit. I would buy it if I were not so darn busy.
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Jul 22, 2014 23:19
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Glad to see you're still with us! Is it common to run a rubber oil feed line to the turbo? I've never seen one OEM. At the Parker hydraulic shop that makes my hoses, they had nothing in the catalog that they would recommend for that duty, other than the Teflon braided stainless (which is what I use).
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Jul 23, 2014 01:14
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mafoose posted:Glad to see you're still with us! Nope and even though this hose was 300 psi/oil rated, it was not designed for crimped barb fittings. Also, who uses BSP for ends? I had a new teflon braided stainless line made today for $47 OTD. Which is what should have been on there in the drat first place /rant.
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Jul 23, 2014 19:15
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the spyder posted:Then again, car's like this pop up every once in a while too: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4578746417.html Aaaaaand a friend of a friend bought it. drat that went quick.
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Jul 23, 2014 19:16
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This last week was productive, despite being buried @ work. First up we pulled the motor from the black FD that showed up a few weeks back- can you guess the problem?      It's off getting rebuild @ Pineapple. It reached 133c and melted 3" out of the water jacket... Pictures later. This weekend was, well, hell. Friday I finally agreed to take on a project I've been putting off for 3 years... A customer who I did work for years back hated the Red paint on his Turbo swapped 90 Vert. So much so that he bought a black vert of the same year, but in 10x better condition. Friday night, I got food poisoning or a stomach bug. I was wrecked all weekend, yet somehow- the swap got done. Probably because of all the hard work my friend Ben put into it, but holy poo poo. The black - now turbo swapped- vert left here at 11pm Sunday. The owners stoked and outside of a bad oil line that leaked and had to be changed, it was a painless swap. He worked on it with us all weekend (usually I would threaten to charge more, but honestly we could not have gotten it done without him.) My friends planning on taking the red vert shell and the wrecked white cars motor and making a running/driving car from the combo and flipping it.     Tonight, I'm going to work on the Red 93 Touring and hopefully get it running. the spyder fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jul 29, 2014 |
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Jul 29, 2014 02:07
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How are the FC vert's to drive compared to a hardtop? I have always kinda liked them and they pop up on CL pretty cheap from time to time.
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Jul 29, 2014 02:34
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Stock: take a car that barely has enough power to be enjoyable and add 500 pounds. Now, a turbo vert is a different story. It has just the right amount of power for the heavier chassis. I had one for a year and miss it. I want to find another clean shell to swap at some point, but I have other priorities right now.
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Jul 29, 2014 07:13
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On my away to the airport I saw a front garden. In the garden was a large wooden garage. In front of that garage was a rotary, in pieces in the sunshine, and in the garage was the shell of a Miata. Your curse is spreading! No spiders spotted though...
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Aug 1, 2014 18:52
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Update: I'm busy. Well, I guess that's not much of an update. I ordered some Autoart models when touchofmodern had them 20% off. Now to find a place to hide them where my 6 year old can't find them.        I tried to wrap up Rudy's 93 Touring car this last week, but failed miserably.  The good news is: it runs! After replacing missing hardware, check valves, installing a new TPS, and replacement vac/pressure reservoirs- it started. No leaks, no smoke, buuuut it idled at 2800rpm... Whomever installed the fuel rails forgot the primary injector body to iron orings. It's a four hour job to tear it down and replace the $8 orings... drat it. Well, guess I know what I'm doing tonight  The turbo vert returned for a quick wideband + boost gauge install. The owner's super happy. Fun little car. Makes me kinda want one again.     I stripped the S5 keg from the blown engine vert and got it ready for teardown.    Sadly I forgot to take pictures of the teardown- spoiler of what's next:  And that's it for any car work in the immediate future. I ordered the siding/trim/caulking/nails for the shop today. The next few weeks are going to be dedicated to wrapping up the shop.
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Aug 18, 2014 19:54
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Pulled apart the Red FD with a 3000rpm idle. Aaaaand no orings.  $5/each!  Installed with some good old Castrol for lubrication.  We're going to finish reassembly tonight. Hopefully this resolves the idle and the car can return to its owner.
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Aug 21, 2014 00:45
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the spyder posted:The good news is: it runs! After replacing missing hardware, check valves, installing a new TPS, and replacement vac/pressure reservoirs- it started. No leaks, no smoke, buuuut it idled at 2800rpm... Whomever installed the fuel rails forgot the primary injector body to iron orings. It's a four hour job to tear it down and replace the $8 orings... drat it. Well, guess I know what I'm doing tonight When you're working on someone's car and something like this comes up, who pays for those 4 hours? It seems like a lot of the cars you get have stuff like this crop up that either PO's or the owners have either hosed up or omitted. I guess that comes with the territory when you specialize in something that has such a heavy modding community.
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Aug 21, 2014 10:59
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The trees you have that pith all over your cars are called Lindens. It never stops. If they are on your property cut them all down and pat yourself on the back when you replace it with something else like a locust tree. ... pith!
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Aug 21, 2014 14:23
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:When you're working on someone's car and something like this comes up, who pays for those 4 hours? It seems like a lot of the cars you get have stuff like this crop up that either PO's or the owners have either hosed up or omitted. I guess that comes with the territory when you specialize in something that has such a heavy modding community. Well, thankfully for this fellow it was only 2.5 hours. I knocked it out faster then I was expecting. As far as billable time goes, if I had installed the engine and missed the orings- I would eat the cost. In this case the car was brought to me as is for a no start diagnosis, so the customer pays. I've been far to nice in the past and just fixed something that was wrong/bugging me for free. As it turns out, that's not a good idea. Sadly every FD I see at this point is somehow hosed up. It's rare to see a clean one and I'm tired of basket case cars. I can't recall if I posted this or not- but I am no longer accepting new projects. I'm going to work on my own stuff for a while. (I can't promise if someone throws $$$ at me, I won't take on a job, but with how cheap FD owners are getting, it's not likely to happen.)
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Aug 21, 2014 18:27
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As my friend once said, "An FD is my favorite car for you to own."
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Aug 21, 2014 18:29
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extreme_accordion posted:The trees you have that pith all over your cars are called Lindens. And a European Beech, a Copper Beech, two Japanese Maple, and dozens of Black/White walnut hybrids. I would happily turn most of them in to either lumber or firewood, but that's another project.
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Aug 21, 2014 18:30
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Dry out the black walnut in bigger chunks. Very handy for shop blocks and such. The rest all sounds like firewood or mulch to me. Your moving rotation of cars has been inspiring.
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Aug 22, 2014 15:22
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Small shop update: Why the gently caress did I not do this sooner?     Tomorrow I start siding.
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Aug 29, 2014 08:17
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Electrical nerd in me, but when are you going to hang permanent lighting, and what type do you think you'll go with? I know my old mechanic picked up a bunch of old high bay low pressure sodium fixtures for next to nothing, ripped the ballasts out, swapped the sockets for regular ones, and stuck giant rear end CFLs in them. It hurts to look at the ceiling in there now; the two tube T12 fixtures next to them are like nightlights compared to them, though the CFLs take a bit to warm up when switched on. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Aug 29, 2014 |
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Aug 29, 2014 08:40
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I'm torn. My electrician friend wants me to use HE T8's- mainly because he can get me good fixtures for $50/each. On the other hand, I want to try the 100w CFL's + reflector dish combo that's popular on garage journal. Regardless I'm breaking it up in to zones and spot lighting above equipment as needed. I want is as bright as possible- on a budget.
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Aug 29, 2014 08:55
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Personally, I'd go T8's if they're big fixtures (4+ tubes/each, preferably 6). Higher upfront cost for the fixtures, but lower bulb replacement cost, longer bulb life, and likely lower energy use. You'll have to replace the occasional ballast, but CFLs have an integrated ballast (which, in my own experience, gives out long before the bulb itself)... so they cost a lot more. He went with the high bay stuff only because they were something like $20 for 10 of them, then got stung when he realized how much big CFLs cost. Still, even with the CFL cost factored in, because he got the fixtures so cheap, he came out ahead.. for now. He'll stay slightly ahead as long as he keeps some connections to electrical contractors; retail for the bulbs he's using is something like $30-40. T8s are only slightly more expensive than T12s these days. His shop is about the same size of yours, if I had to guess, with a small office/waiting room/break room in a corner, and two bathrooms (a nice one for customers, another one for him). There's also T5's, but for a shop that size, it'd be a waste of money (the bulbs are about 3x the cost of T8's, for the same amount of light and only a little more efficiency). Comedy option (comedy only based on cost, I'm swapping out all the hard to reach bulbs with these in the house): LEDs. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:18 on Aug 29, 2014 |
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Aug 29, 2014 09:12
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I have T5s on my fish tank and they cost about $100 a year for four bulbs. Couldn't imagine trying to light a shop with them.
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Aug 29, 2014 12:52
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some texas redneck posted:Comedy option (comedy only based on cost, I'm swapping out all the hard to reach bulbs with these in the house): LEDs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EHHLD8?cache=3d3c107a2b5fa88a2be01cf2d5d17fa1&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1409314874&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1 Stick these to all the steel work on the roof, run a big rear end 12v transformer 
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Aug 29, 2014 13:23
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Bought a few rolls of that stuff awhile back (when dealextreme was still good and sold 5w lasers) and put it inside vinyl tubing, and used coax/wire hangers to attach it underneath the edge of the cabinets in my parent's kitchen. Works pretty well, and even made a 12/7v switch so they're two-position dimmable.
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Aug 29, 2014 13:26
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